Rear Latch Warning

[Builder]

Does anyone have pictures of how this is installed? Also, where does it get power?

Thanks!

[San Diego GTR]

Scott,
Are you referring to the latch for the rear bonnet?
Paul

[Builder]

Yep. I have the kit, but no instructions. I presume the bracket fits near the latch.

[Davrianman]

This may be of help... Took it at Stoneleigh show last year...

Cheers, Mart

[Davrianman]

I think you need to drill out the 2 rivets holding the latch together before attaching the new bracket and switch...

[Steve_D]

I think you will find the microswitch and its mounting plate fit between the catch mechanism and the body but am not sure as I designed and made my own (think I was the first).

Steve

[Builder]

Davrianman said:

This may be of help... Took it at Stoneleigh show last year...

Cheers, Mart

Thanks, Mart. Yes, that's the ticket. It appears the switch goes into the catch (with mods). I see the bracket now. Here's a magnified section of the above.

[Builder]

Davrianman said:

I think you need to drill out the 2 rivets holding the latch together before attaching the new bracket and switch...

Yes, that appears to be correct. Check that one off the list!

[Builder]

Steve_D said:

I think you will find the microswitch and its mounting plate fit between the catch mechanism and the body but am not sure as I designed and made my own (think I was the first).

Steve

Would have done the same, had there not been one available. Didn't the factory develope this after seeing yours? Anyway, thanks for coming up with this, Steve. I know it's going to save some GRP...and maybe some dents on another vehicle.

With the factory kit, it appears the bracket goes on the rearward facing outer surface of the catch.

[Builder]

You guys ROCK THE PARTY! Thanks for the replies.

Any idea about power? It seems I recall it had something to do with the door switch wires?

[Builder]

It's a very nice kit and a simple install...especially when you know where the bracket goes! The rivets in the latch are hollow. The brackets are held on with some button head bolts, washers, and nylock nuts. Just offer up the bracket and bolt it in place.

The hole that the switch goes in needed to be opend up a little, but that was the only mod required. The hardest part is getting the washer and nut on the back of the bolt between the latch and GRP. Just put some tape on the back side of the 8mm open-end spanner and stick the bolt to it. No problem.

I don't know where the power hook-up is yet...

[Steve_D]

I imagine at some point it will be included in the factory loom so only the factory will be able to tell you if it is in yours.
Failing that you will need to run a wire from the front of the car through that tube you installed in the side pod......you did install the tube/duct didn't you?

Steve

[Builder]

Steve_D said:

I imagine at some point it will be included in the factory loom...

......you did install the tube/duct didn't you?

Steve

That's a big 10-4, Stevo. Though, mine is retrofit. See Stig's sticky on FACTORY PART UPDATES (first post). The photo of the kit is below. I was able to run the cable to the front zip-tied under the luggage pod. My tubes are still completely open for future goodies. I also ran a couple of pairs of 12ga wire down both sides (under luggage) for unknown power requirements. I also put a bank of 6 relays (from Painless) on the rear bulkhead...unused as of yet.

[ezakimak]

Builder said:

The photo of the kit is below.

From that picture it looks like a fairly simple circuit.

I’m guessing that the part under the light blue heat shrink is a resistor of some sort to drop the current. The black push buttons are a normally closed configuration, when the clip is closed the latch would push the buttons in causing the circuit to be open with no current flow.

If the clip is open the push buttons will make a closed circuit causing current to flow and the LEDs (little red lights) to illuminate. These may be flashing depending on the type.

To connect it up you probably just connect one side to the load side of a fused accessory terminal in the fuse box. The other side should go to earth. LEDs are polarity sensitive so you might have to swap the polarity to get it to work; if you test it on a 6V torch battery you should be safe. You could also connect a small buzzer in series with the circuit to sound an alarm as well.

Disclaimer – have never seen one just an observation.

Regards Ryan

[Builder]

I believe that's exactly right, Ryan. I think the resistors in the the LED housings. The kit here is color coded for right and left.

I am also including a Piezo alarm in each of 5 circuits; oil pressure, water temp, rear latchs, and the doors and turn indicators have a delay. The instruments I have selected have a an adjustable alarm circuit, so the Piezos will sound with the panel LED indicators (not stock lamp). The buzzers will help with audio indication of an error condition. This will be important in a (spectacularly) loud cabin.

[San Diego GTR]

Can I ask a dumb question. Why would this be necessary? My rear hatch closes very solidly and would be really hard to miss. Just wondering if someone had that awful experience of it flying open at speed.
Paul

[Steve_D]

It is very easy to forget that you have not latched the clip particularly at shows etc when people want to see the engine then take a photo with it shut....

If the wind gets under it then it could fly open which will not only badly damage the clip but could result in loss of car control.

Steve

[Crazy of Cookham]

Great little device which has saved me on more than one occasion. One moment of distraction and its possible to forget to latch it. Well it is once you pass the half century (thats age not speed)

[shithotfast]

San Diego GTR said:

Can I ask a dumb question. Why would this be necessary? My rear hatch closes very solidly and would be really hard to miss. Just wondering if someone had that awful experience of it flying open at speed.
Paul

My uncle raced an old ultima sports a few years ago. They were an independent race team "hopkins" still around but not with Ultimas. Going around at 160mph during a race at castle coombe - forgot to latch the rear down, - it opened, car took off... hit a wall - car written off and driver with 2 broken legs!..... So worth fitting a catch I would suggest! By the way for any spyder cars - I fitted a long pip-pin set-up between the seats into the rear section so if i forget the two side pins, this one is so obvious I cant miss it. Photos if anyone needs them via email...

[mkoch1]

San Diego GTR said:

Can I ask a dumb question. Why would this be necessary? My rear hatch closes very solidly and would be really hard to miss. Just wondering if someone had that awful experience of it flying open at speed.
Paul

Mine opened at low speed it removed allot of fiberglass + gel coat along with breaking the canopy struts. If you search the forums there are several people who have forgotten or though it was latched. In my case I was at a party people wanted to see the engine, later that night I went by and closed the back but didn't latch it. Sure enough a couple hours later I forgot and just drove off. At least it happened before I got it painted.

I have since installed a simple pin that I leave on the seat to help remind me to latch the back. I guess it also acts as a safety if the side latches where to fail.