Some questions for you
Discussion
Firstly, I would like to thank CJ for all the help he has given me in getting my first Ultima GTR.
Now that I have had the car for a while I have a few questions for you experts out there.
1) Where can I buy a stick on adhesive number plate? I got a set from the factory but they were the legal plastic variety. Previously it had the stick on variety on the front.
2) The manual says 21psi for the rears but I have the Kahn 265/35/18 and not the Ultima spec 335/30/18. Is 27 psi about right?
3) I have fitted the AP brake kit and now even under mild braking the car is stalling (previously had only the Ford brakes), is this to do with fuel starvation and the carb? Is this easy to rectify and if so how do I do it?
4) Where is the best place to go for trackday insurance? Is it worth it? I have been quoted £270 for £30k cover with a £10k excess - that is a mighty big accident!
5) I have got a slight engine oil leak, a few drops on the garage floor but I can't see where it is coming from. I know there was discussions on another thread but is this likely to be serious enough for investigation or is there no way of telling without finding the source?
6) The lumbar support does not hold its pressure on the drivers side, if it is an internal leak to the seat is it easy to fix? Anyone else had any problems?
7) The rear canopy mounting for the gas strut seems very flimsy to me on the GRP, is it worth fabricating an aluminium plate each side to give it some strength?
8) Not being the tallest in the world it is uncomfortable at the moment nailing the throttle flat to the floor (bit of a disadvantage!). What is easiest, adjusting the pedals or moving the seat? (the seat is the Ultima alcontara type and is fully forward on the runners).
9) Anyone got a dyno print to show the power and torque curves for a bog standard 350 HO? Manual says keep it below 5700rpm but would like to see what the delivery is like to get the best performance.
10) Is anyone interested in the ford brake kit that has just come off the car?
My first experiences of the car are awesome. I have got an Evo 7 as well which is quick by most standards but I am still getting used to people nearly crashing their cars to get a look at it. My passengers are enjoying people's reaction as they double take the car and point like besotted school children. Went to get some oil on Sunday and came back to find 6 people round the car having a look!
Thanks for any help.
Rich
Now that I have had the car for a while I have a few questions for you experts out there.
1) Where can I buy a stick on adhesive number plate? I got a set from the factory but they were the legal plastic variety. Previously it had the stick on variety on the front.
2) The manual says 21psi for the rears but I have the Kahn 265/35/18 and not the Ultima spec 335/30/18. Is 27 psi about right?
3) I have fitted the AP brake kit and now even under mild braking the car is stalling (previously had only the Ford brakes), is this to do with fuel starvation and the carb? Is this easy to rectify and if so how do I do it?
4) Where is the best place to go for trackday insurance? Is it worth it? I have been quoted £270 for £30k cover with a £10k excess - that is a mighty big accident!
5) I have got a slight engine oil leak, a few drops on the garage floor but I can't see where it is coming from. I know there was discussions on another thread but is this likely to be serious enough for investigation or is there no way of telling without finding the source?
6) The lumbar support does not hold its pressure on the drivers side, if it is an internal leak to the seat is it easy to fix? Anyone else had any problems?
7) The rear canopy mounting for the gas strut seems very flimsy to me on the GRP, is it worth fabricating an aluminium plate each side to give it some strength?
8) Not being the tallest in the world it is uncomfortable at the moment nailing the throttle flat to the floor (bit of a disadvantage!). What is easiest, adjusting the pedals or moving the seat? (the seat is the Ultima alcontara type and is fully forward on the runners).
9) Anyone got a dyno print to show the power and torque curves for a bog standard 350 HO? Manual says keep it below 5700rpm but would like to see what the delivery is like to get the best performance.
10) Is anyone interested in the ford brake kit that has just come off the car?
My first experiences of the car are awesome. I have got an Evo 7 as well which is quick by most standards but I am still getting used to people nearly crashing their cars to get a look at it. My passengers are enjoying people's reaction as they double take the car and point like besotted school children. Went to get some oil on Sunday and came back to find 6 people round the car having a look!
Thanks for any help.
Rich
Hi Rich
Nice to hear of another driver on the road. I am experiencing some of the same issues as yourself but will reply only on what I know, and wait and wee what other advice you get.
Oil leak. Try all the obvious first.
1) Silver plate side of engine where mechanical fuel pump would go. If any problems can be re-sealed with instant gasket.
2) There is a bolt at the front of the engine just around from the plate which apparently goes into oil-well. This can be resealed with copper washer.
3) Any problems with oil filter, sump or head. Oil cooler pipes.
After the elimination of the above I found mine to be the pulley oil seal at the front of the engine. The factory fixed this for me in a few hours and I don't think they had to get the engine out.
The stalling of the engine is common and I believe from fellow local GT can be minimised by adjusting float level in carb. Perhaps he will join in and give details.
Hope helps
Brian
Nice to hear of another driver on the road. I am experiencing some of the same issues as yourself but will reply only on what I know, and wait and wee what other advice you get.
Oil leak. Try all the obvious first.
1) Silver plate side of engine where mechanical fuel pump would go. If any problems can be re-sealed with instant gasket.
2) There is a bolt at the front of the engine just around from the plate which apparently goes into oil-well. This can be resealed with copper washer.
3) Any problems with oil filter, sump or head. Oil cooler pipes.
After the elimination of the above I found mine to be the pulley oil seal at the front of the engine. The factory fixed this for me in a few hours and I don't think they had to get the engine out.
The stalling of the engine is common and I believe from fellow local GT can be minimised by adjusting float level in carb. Perhaps he will join in and give details.
Hope helps
Brian
I get the engine stall under hard braking - a bit irritating in normal driving but can generally be avoided by not screeching to a halt - there is a Moroso anti surge kit for Holleys I might try, otherwise only solution is FI I think.
I stalled it under heavy braking at Knockhill on Saturday when inadvertently selected neutral approaching hairpin. Managed to fumble 2nd gear after a worrying moment and it fired up on bump start - I believe this was the main reason for some of the large flames from exhaust reported by a following driver. Fortunately I was taking it quite easy as this was first run out and hence we did not end up in the scenery......
I stalled it under heavy braking at Knockhill on Saturday when inadvertently selected neutral approaching hairpin. Managed to fumble 2nd gear after a worrying moment and it fired up on bump start - I believe this was the main reason for some of the large flames from exhaust reported by a following driver. Fortunately I was taking it quite easy as this was first run out and hence we did not end up in the scenery......
1. Try someone like www.a1stylegraphix.co.uk/ or any others that advertise in the car mags.
2. Can’t help here.
3. Most of the talk on this has been around float levels and the use of extended stand pipes? In the carb. Others may have a definitive answer.
4. Can’t help here.
5. First find it by taping paper towel to suspect areas. Come back when you know where it is.
6. Not seen how this works but assume there must be some sort of valve and a ball to pump it up. This has to be the first place to check. Do the same as you would looking for a bike puncture. If it’s the bladder itself then you will need to start stripping the seat covering. You may not want to do this.
7. If it has not failed then leave alone. If you feel the need put some large washers each side.
8. Does the car have a dropped floor? (The floor will sit 40-50 mm below the rest of the underside when you look under the car)
If not then you should be able to unbolt the runners and drill some new holes further forward. Do note though that the seats are at an angle pointing in towards each other and they are not in the same place each side. Just move each hole the same amount directly forwards.
If the floor is dropped then the seat is probably already against the chassis cross rail. In order to move it forwards you may also need to lift the seat on wooden packing.
9. Will make some enquiries for you on this one.
10. Thanks but no thanks.
Steve
2. Can’t help here.
3. Most of the talk on this has been around float levels and the use of extended stand pipes? In the carb. Others may have a definitive answer.
4. Can’t help here.
5. First find it by taping paper towel to suspect areas. Come back when you know where it is.
6. Not seen how this works but assume there must be some sort of valve and a ball to pump it up. This has to be the first place to check. Do the same as you would looking for a bike puncture. If it’s the bladder itself then you will need to start stripping the seat covering. You may not want to do this.
7. If it has not failed then leave alone. If you feel the need put some large washers each side.
8. Does the car have a dropped floor? (The floor will sit 40-50 mm below the rest of the underside when you look under the car)
If not then you should be able to unbolt the runners and drill some new holes further forward. Do note though that the seats are at an angle pointing in towards each other and they are not in the same place each side. Just move each hole the same amount directly forwards.
If the floor is dropped then the seat is probably already against the chassis cross rail. In order to move it forwards you may also need to lift the seat on wooden packing.
9. Will make some enquiries for you on this one.
10. Thanks but no thanks.
Steve
Steve your advise on tissues was good. Just remembered also clean very carefully around area, drive for short distance and chech area again. I found a small mirror (Thanks to her in doors) invaluable in seeing problem. If it does turn out to be pulley seal very difficult to spot as oil gets thrown by pulley down right side of engine.
Thanks guys for all your help. Need a bit more though unfortunately.
Had a bit of a problem tonight with the temperature going up from 90 to 115 in heavy traffic, I turned the engine off at this point as it kept climbing. The engine revs on tickover went up from 800rpm approx up to 2000rpm which meant that the fans could not cope and the temperature kept climbing (bit scary!). When I got clear road the temperature came back down to 85.
I guess this might be to do with the throttle cable getting hot in traffic and opening the throttle? Do I need to insulate the throttle cable to prevent this? It was only mid 20's today but I was in stop start traffic for 10 mins approx.
Thanks
Richard
Had a bit of a problem tonight with the temperature going up from 90 to 115 in heavy traffic, I turned the engine off at this point as it kept climbing. The engine revs on tickover went up from 800rpm approx up to 2000rpm which meant that the fans could not cope and the temperature kept climbing (bit scary!). When I got clear road the temperature came back down to 85.
I guess this might be to do with the throttle cable getting hot in traffic and opening the throttle? Do I need to insulate the throttle cable to prevent this? It was only mid 20's today but I was in stop start traffic for 10 mins approx.
Thanks
Richard
rjneville said:
Thanks guys for all your help. Need a bit more though unfortunately.
Had a bit of a problem tonight with the temperature going up from 90 to 115 in heavy traffic, I turned the engine off at this point as it kept climbing. The engine revs on tickover went up from 800rpm approx up to 2000rpm which meant that the fans could not cope and the temperature kept climbing (bit scary!). When I got clear road the temperature came back down to 85.
I guess this might be to do with the throttle cable getting hot in traffic and opening the throttle? Do I need to insulate the throttle cable to prevent this? It was only mid 20's today but I was in stop start traffic for 10 mins approx.
Thanks
Richard
Firsly you need to check the fans are cutting in at the right temp, then that your car has the double skin kit that boxs in the radiator.
I also found that my car ran about 10-15c hotter on the water temp before I fitted the oil cooler!
As a guide my car runs at around 70c water temp and 85c oil temp.... in trafic they both equalise and can climb to 90c.
The throttle cable is a pain and can end up getting tight due to heat.... is there a colder route it could follow? but regardless insulating it wont hurt and may cure your problem.
Worth noting is that my revs used to climb on tickover especially when hot and I cured it by completely removing the electric choke..... and it still starts first time every time so I didn't need it anyhow!
What are the throttle cables like on the Ultima? We had this problem on the XTR where it would keep sticking.
Got a custom one made by phoneahose - 01623 440398.
They make them exactly to your spec - never had the problem again.
Wasn't expensive either - £33ish - may be worth a try......
Got a custom one made by phoneahose - 01623 440398.
They make them exactly to your spec - never had the problem again.
Wasn't expensive either - £33ish - may be worth a try......
I use a very heavy duty throttle cable (similar to a Lotus Esprit gear select cable) and replaced the aluminium support bracket at the pedal end with a very ugly steel bracket which bolts through the chassis rail. This reduced all flex in the bracket which was causing the cable to bind. Under all conditions the cable is free to move and returns correctly. Also modified the carb cable mount to ensure the cable run was straight.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Hope this helps.
Dave
davejw said:
I use a very heavy duty throttle cable (similar to a Lotus Esprit gear select cable) and replaced the aluminium support bracket at the pedal end with a very ugly steel bracket which bolts through the chassis rail. This reduced all flex in the bracket which was causing the cable to bind. Under all conditions the cable is free to move and returns correctly. Also modified the carb cable mount to ensure the cable run was straight.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Putting heavier return springs on the carb is a good idea too. The factory fitted some light springs to mine which whilst fine for full throttle returns, did nothing when on low/idle openings.
ultimaandy said:
Worth noting is that my revs used to climb on tickover especially when hot and I cured it by completely removing the electric choke..... and it still starts first time every time so I didn't need it anyhow!
This is the first thing Knight Racing did when they put my engine on the dyno. Cause far more problems than they are worth apparently
Have fixed my Q7. I have mounted a aluminium plate on the engine side and a right angle wheel side with the strut bolt through them. Works perfectly and no more problems lifting the hood and the catch now fits snuggly.
Q3 - having downloaded copious amounts of info from the Holley site I have been having a go at fixing the stalling problem most of the weekend. I have raised the rear float level and adjusted the idle which helped a bit but it is still stalling under even 'normal' braking to a stop. I have tried many different settings and after speaking to Peter Knight today it is going for a trip to see him as he is only a few miles down the road from me and can have a look at Q5 as well. I don't think adjusting the carb is going to solve it entirely, do uprated fuel pumps fix this as the standard ones are not up to it? I guess I will need this if I get a more powerful engine anyway so may be worth a try.
Problem with this car is you can be forever tinkering with it at the expense of driving it - some of the fun of ownership I guess!
Q3 - having downloaded copious amounts of info from the Holley site I have been having a go at fixing the stalling problem most of the weekend. I have raised the rear float level and adjusted the idle which helped a bit but it is still stalling under even 'normal' braking to a stop. I have tried many different settings and after speaking to Peter Knight today it is going for a trip to see him as he is only a few miles down the road from me and can have a look at Q5 as well. I don't think adjusting the carb is going to solve it entirely, do uprated fuel pumps fix this as the standard ones are not up to it? I guess I will need this if I get a more powerful engine anyway so may be worth a try.
Problem with this car is you can be forever tinkering with it at the expense of driving it - some of the fun of ownership I guess!
If it was a problem with the fuel pump not being able to keep up, you would be suffering from fuel starvation at large throttle openings (when the fuel is being consumed from the float chambers at a huge rate), rather than when braking (when the fuel is being consumed at the lowest rate possible).
I'd be inclined to bin the carbs and go for the EFI solution. But then I don't see why everybody fits carbs to their Ultima, even though they know that everybody else has exactly this problem. I'm an EFI man. I've never specified carbs for an engine I've had built. Probably because when I started driving, fuel injection was the Holy Grail of me and all my friends. Carbs were for spotty teenagers, like us
James
I'd be inclined to bin the carbs and go for the EFI solution. But then I don't see why everybody fits carbs to their Ultima, even though they know that everybody else has exactly this problem. I'm an EFI man. I've never specified carbs for an engine I've had built. Probably because when I started driving, fuel injection was the Holy Grail of me and all my friends. Carbs were for spotty teenagers, like us
James
Plenty of room in a GTR.
Guy Beddington manufactures a carbon fibre air box with intake connected directly to a throttle body. Looks very nice. It also seals against the rear clip so feeds cold air from the scoop only.
If anyones interested I will try to dig up a photo and post it.
Andy
Guy Beddington manufactures a carbon fibre air box with intake connected directly to a throttle body. Looks very nice. It also seals against the rear clip so feeds cold air from the scoop only.
If anyones interested I will try to dig up a photo and post it.
Andy
barter said:
I asked American Speed last night about an EFI solution. They listed 3 that they can provide: Edelbrock, Holley and Accel all on a 383" 500bhp chevy small block.
Anyone have any knowledge/views of these setups?
I have installed a Holley system in an older International truck (345ci) and it worked very well. The only option that I should have installed was the closed loop kit (to aid in fuel efficiency). Other than that, 2-3 hrs to install, 3 or so hrs to fine tune and I was off-roading in no time.
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