Discussion
pilbeam_mp62 said:
Are you going to put the proper roll cage in while you are doing the re-build ?
Regards
Roll cage, lowered floor, new LS engine mount brackets and strengthened suspension brackets all to be welded in before chassis is blasted.Regards
Then either powder coat (if chassis not waxoyled) or acid etched and sprayed.
Parts are all on order and should be here this week. The welding, blasting and spray painting I can do myself. Powder coating I have a friend who can do it for me at his own company.
I have removed the existing panels carefully so they can be used as a template for the holes in the chassis for the new panels.
A tip for all builders is not to use too much sealer/adhesive as it makes life very difficult if you have to repair or rebuild.
A hot air gun is essential!!!!
The chassis is in generally good condition with the only area showing any corrosion being the double skinned area under the radiator as water can enter via the lower radiator rubber mount holes
Paul
Lots of cutting and grinding with a little welding thrown in for good measure today.
One thing I found was that the steel floor panel had corrosion under it on the chassis. It is a flat floor and the moisture has probably got under the panel from the inside of the car. With the lowered floor-pan this will probably not be a problem but sealing with mastic may be worth while.
One of the previous owners had used expanding foam to fill the area between the fuel tanks and sidepods. It acts like a sponge for fuel and water so not a good idea. Given enough time the ally fuel tanks will rot through.
I will post more pictures tomorrow evening.
Paul
PS. I picked up a fresh G50/52 gearbox and clutch yesterday (thanks Paul and Kyle) so no need to rebuild the old one.
One thing I found was that the steel floor panel had corrosion under it on the chassis. It is a flat floor and the moisture has probably got under the panel from the inside of the car. With the lowered floor-pan this will probably not be a problem but sealing with mastic may be worth while.
One of the previous owners had used expanding foam to fill the area between the fuel tanks and sidepods. It acts like a sponge for fuel and water so not a good idea. Given enough time the ally fuel tanks will rot through.
I will post more pictures tomorrow evening.
Paul
PS. I picked up a fresh G50/52 gearbox and clutch yesterday (thanks Paul and Kyle) so no need to rebuild the old one.
A comment about expanded foams. We have had this discussion before, only last time someone was saying that the foam would catch fire. There's expanded foams intended to fill voids in house construction to avoid air infiltration. Then there is SEM brand Ultra rigid structual foam used by high end car OEMs like Infinity to reduce noise and vibs in hollow panels. Also used during the hay days of show room stock racing here in the U.S. to stiffen uni body's. As an example I injected said foam between the two aluiminum sheets in the footwell. Before foam, hit it with a coin and it was a very LIVE sound, after the foam hit it again and all you get is a dead thump. If I ever get the chance to build another GTR more foam and the gold layered heat instalation on the firewall would be high on my short lists of changes. Lee
Not too much done today. Family things, Rugby and the need to tidy up a bit got in the way.
I have started cleaning/refurbishing bits. Battery box, side pods and fuel tanks.
A few pictures
Naked chassis with floor cut out.
New gearbox G50/52
A shiny bit
An interesting previous mod is the chassis beam removed, filled with rag and covered in filler then painted over. Chassis rot the inevitable consequence. (Sorry about cr*p picture).
Some steel on order to sort rust hole.
Grit blasting the next big job.
Paul
I have started cleaning/refurbishing bits. Battery box, side pods and fuel tanks.
A few pictures
Naked chassis with floor cut out.
New gearbox G50/52
A shiny bit
An interesting previous mod is the chassis beam removed, filled with rag and covered in filler then painted over. Chassis rot the inevitable consequence. (Sorry about cr*p picture).
Some steel on order to sort rust hole.
Grit blasting the next big job.
Paul
Started grit blasting suspension parts this evening. It's going to be a long job as the powder coat sticks like s
t to a blanket and is much harder than ordinary Hammerite paint.
My compressor needs more puff to speed things up so tomorrow I will link my road breaker compressor to the workshop system so there will be no lack of air.
When I have done a bit more I will post a few pics.
Paul
t to a blanket and is much harder than ordinary Hammerite paint.My compressor needs more puff to speed things up so tomorrow I will link my road breaker compressor to the workshop system so there will be no lack of air.
When I have done a bit more I will post a few pics.
Paul
Sir: Saw your post on stripping the frame. If you are blasting it you will need large rocks 40-60 screen to get done in less than forever. Better idea is to strip it. You will need a stripper with Methalyne-cloride sorry about the spelling. Stripping will be way easier. Hope that helps, Lee
Steve.
I have noticed that the grit doesn't want to remove sealant so your theory is probably correct.
Lee.
I would use stripper but I don't want to get it inside the chassis via all the rivet holes as this will cause problems with the powder coat process. I may have to use stripper if I get too much grit in the chassis. My current grit is 60 so I will see how it goes when I start on the chassis.
Paul
I have noticed that the grit doesn't want to remove sealant so your theory is probably correct.
Lee.
I would use stripper but I don't want to get it inside the chassis via all the rivet holes as this will cause problems with the powder coat process. I may have to use stripper if I get too much grit in the chassis. My current grit is 60 so I will see how it goes when I start on the chassis.
Paul
Update
I have weakened and taken my chassis to a professional blasting company where they will bake it then strip it. I am still going to do the suspension components myself but I think the £200 it will cost will be money well spent and my time is better invested elsewhere.
A before and after of a front upper wishbone.
Some welding when the chassis returns ( they will have better access for blasting without the added steel ) and I will blast the new parts before powder coating.
While I am waiting I will clean some of the other parts.
Paul
I have weakened and taken my chassis to a professional blasting company where they will bake it then strip it. I am still going to do the suspension components myself but I think the £200 it will cost will be money well spent and my time is better invested elsewhere.
A before and after of a front upper wishbone.
Some welding when the chassis returns ( they will have better access for blasting without the added steel ) and I will blast the new parts before powder coating.
While I am waiting I will clean some of the other parts.
Paul
No Steve. They don't have blasting facilities but farm it out to the company I'm using.
I will give it a the once over again before I take it for powder coat. Their building is environmentally controlled and my workshop is now dry and I can heat it to 20 deg if necessary so it's only the 20 min journey in an enclosed vehicle between the two.
Not ideal but not too bad.
A lot of the stuff they build make our cars look cheap (high-end scientific) and they have no problems so I will take my chance.
It's not likely to get used on salty roads and will always be garaged with me.
Paul
PS. How's business. Keeping the wolf from the door?
I will give it a the once over again before I take it for powder coat. Their building is environmentally controlled and my workshop is now dry and I can heat it to 20 deg if necessary so it's only the 20 min journey in an enclosed vehicle between the two.
Not ideal but not too bad.
A lot of the stuff they build make our cars look cheap (high-end scientific) and they have no problems so I will take my chance.
It's not likely to get used on salty roads and will always be garaged with me.
Paul
PS. How's business. Keeping the wolf from the door?
YIIHAA said:
Where did the lowered floor pans come from? I have a flat bottomed GTR, and keep meaning to cut it out and weld in lowered ones, as I suffer from short legs long body syndrome. The side effect being banging my head on the roof of the GTR, despite a mere 5'11" stature.
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