1970s Hifi gear inherited.
Discussion
Service manual for Sony PS-T1
Courtesy of The Vinyl Engine
You need a user account to download form there - so I downloaded it for you.
Courtesy of The Vinyl Engine
You need a user account to download form there - so I downloaded it for you.
TinyCappo said:
Sorry I didn't make myself clear above the VDU's would dance about even with no tape in or recording. Just power to the unit would cause movement if there was an incoming signal.
Some tape players had a facility to monitor the source all the time , the pictures to poor to see if perhaps you have a button to allow this ?I think so. I have tried Every conceivable permutation including running the it all through the tape before passing it to the amp and nada. Think as has been said it was the mists of time. The two meters on the reciever amp are for signal strength and fine tuning not for sound levels.
Well I must admit the Vinyl bug has bit and bit HARD!
Started out tracking down some old bits from the parents house and found some great pressings Thick as a brick the one with the full newspaper. lots of ELP. the obligatory War o the worlds x2 and lots of other proggy stuff. realised my digital recordings are missing stupid amounts of depth to the sound in comparison.
Plus note is I found 2 charity shops near work who have WALLS of vinyl at 25p each.
Well I must admit the Vinyl bug has bit and bit HARD!
Started out tracking down some old bits from the parents house and found some great pressings Thick as a brick the one with the full newspaper. lots of ELP. the obligatory War o the worlds x2 and lots of other proggy stuff. realised my digital recordings are missing stupid amounts of depth to the sound in comparison.
Plus note is I found 2 charity shops near work who have WALLS of vinyl at 25p each.
I see. Its a bulky unit that is too big to have just doing nothing apart from the VU though but sentiment is preventing me from throwing it out. Ill see what I can do with a tape
I changed back to the Sanyo record deck as the Sony one just didnt sound as good turns out the Sanyo unit is a rebadged sansui from the early 70s It looks much better too.
I changed back to the Sanyo record deck as the Sony one just didnt sound as good turns out the Sanyo unit is a rebadged sansui from the early 70s It looks much better too.
Well Fun weekend and things going on.
1. I think I have a blown bass driver in one of the speaker units Which made me think I had fluffed the stylus on the turntable turns out I haven't, I just have blown the bass drivers.
Option A recone.
Option B Sansui Sp-200s
2. I raided the inlaws loft and found this. Ill see if anyone can guess what it is before I post up a clear pic.
I spent about 2 hours with it yesterday trying to get it to work before today with no joy then after reading on a forum that the focusing for the laser and the TOC is capacitor controlled.
I spent a little longer with it this evening and the capacitors seem to have charged and appear to now be doing what they should do. It sounds glorious
1. I think I have a blown bass driver in one of the speaker units Which made me think I had fluffed the stylus on the turntable turns out I haven't, I just have blown the bass drivers.
Option A recone.
Option B Sansui Sp-200s
2. I raided the inlaws loft and found this. Ill see if anyone can guess what it is before I post up a clear pic.
I spent about 2 hours with it yesterday trying to get it to work before today with no joy then after reading on a forum that the focusing for the laser and the TOC is capacitor controlled.
I spent a little longer with it this evening and the capacitors seem to have charged and appear to now be doing what they should do. It sounds glorious
Marantz CD63
I thought the Philips CD101, the Marantz CD 63 and the Meridian were all the same Philips unit. Just the Marantz and Meridian came in black. However the Marantz literature I can find relates to their unit being superior using 4x sampling creating a 16bit resolution in comparison to the 14 bits of the competition?
Edited by TinyCappo on Tuesday 9th September 00:25
TinyCappo said:
Marantz CD63
I thought the Philips CD101, the Marantz CD 63 and the Meridian were all the same Philips unit. Just the Marantz and Meridian came in black. However the Marantz literature I can find relates to their unit being superior using 4x sampling creating a 16bit resolution in comparison to the 14 bits of the competition?
Edited by TinyCappo on Tuesday 9th September 00:25
The Philips based machines of that era all used 14x4 architecture to achieve the 16 bit resolution needed to achieve IEC60908 ( Red book CD ) performance.
Edited by Crackie on Tuesday 9th September 07:15
Amazing how a little information gets Chinese whispered across the internet isn't it. Into who was better and why, when technically its all the same underneath
As you have first hand experience with these machines. Is there any specific care tips or definite dos/don'ts? Obviously im not going to lick it :P
As you have first hand experience with these machines. Is there any specific care tips or definite dos/don'ts? Obviously im not going to lick it :P
The Meridian did have the better bits. The Marantz and the Philips were pretty similar. the KI Marantz units came later. The Picture of the Meridian below shows the Merdian MCD and the MCD Pro which was pretty much gutted and used the added Lower case for the Power supply. I have one of the next "version" of the Meridian line the 200 Transport. It works perfectly and I have had it for 22 years.
TinyCappo said:
<snip>
I spent a little longer with it this evening and the capacitors seem to have charged and appear to now be doing what they should do. It sounds glorious
Capacitors charge instantaneously, unless the circuit design prohibits this (but that's a long explanation...)I spent a little longer with it this evening and the capacitors seem to have charged and appear to now be doing what they should do. It sounds glorious
If it only began working after being powered on for some time, then this suggests a failed (or failing) component somewhere.
It could actually be a capacitor - but then it could be lots of other things too.
Well when first powered on the lens would fully track outwards and then return. the discs TOC wouldn't read and when play was pressed it would spin the disc and then stop with the error light illuminated after the 3rd attempt of playing. When I looked online for the symptoms as described, the rapid movement of the laser when turned on and the failure to play. Some audiophile forums with posts asking with similar symptoms pointed to the capacitors and some said if it hasn't been turned on for 10-15 years then to leave it for a few hours plugged in and on and try again as the components can discharge fully. I had always assumed as you had that it was an instantaneous charged or not charged so was considering having it repaired.
One other thing that is worth possibly considering is, I tried numerous CDs incase it was fussy with the CD and then on the Liam Neeson version of war of the worlds it played fine It could have been dust in the lid contact or similar and a few cycles has given a good contact again.
One other thing that is worth possibly considering is, I tried numerous CDs incase it was fussy with the CD and then on the Liam Neeson version of war of the worlds it played fine It could have been dust in the lid contact or similar and a few cycles has given a good contact again.
IIRC that has the swing arm mechanism? CDM9 I think?
If so it's unlikely to be the sled (sliders that conventional lasers run on) but it could just be a tired laser.
It could be a multitude of things I suppose - I'm not familiar with those players at all - I've only repaired newer stuff (mid / late 80's on).
If so it's unlikely to be the sled (sliders that conventional lasers run on) but it could just be a tired laser.
It could be a multitude of things I suppose - I'm not familiar with those players at all - I've only repaired newer stuff (mid / late 80's on).
The CDM9 came later, this generation of Philips based players used the original die cast CDM0 and CDM1 swing arm mechanisms. The very earliest CD63s had a CDM0 mechanism but the majority had a CDM1.
Regarding reliability the first gen players were very well engineered and pretty reliable back then; I've been out of the repair game since the early 90s though.
Regarding reliability the first gen players were very well engineered and pretty reliable back then; I've been out of the repair game since the early 90s though.
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