55" OLED or 65" LED TV...
Discussion
The OLED won't go as bright as the LED, so side by side you'll notice this. It still goes far bright enough. Lost shadow detail will most likely also be down to the picture setting. TVs are now better than being able to judge in a store, and there's a reason OLED is so highly praised, and it definitely wouldn't be if the whites were grey or it was crushing the blacks when properly setup.
creampuff said:
OK I'm bumping this thread.
I was about to pull the trigger on a 55" LG OLED 4K TV for £1,899...... that is until I saw it side-by-side with a Samsung 7000 series LCD TV. I could get a bigger 60" Samsung KS7000 for £1,199.
Prior to seeing them side-by-side, I was prepared to pay the £700 price premium for a smaller OLED TV, just because they looked so good sitting by themselves. But side-by-side, I thought the LG OLED looked a bit dim and the whites looked a bit grey like dirty snow.
Is this just showroom settings and it will look better at home?
I came to the opposite conclusion when seeing Samsung next to OLED playing the same content. I'd loved to have saved the difference, but to me the OLED was noticeably better with the same film content. Had it since Friday, and happy I made the correct choice.I was about to pull the trigger on a 55" LG OLED 4K TV for £1,899...... that is until I saw it side-by-side with a Samsung 7000 series LCD TV. I could get a bigger 60" Samsung KS7000 for £1,199.
Prior to seeing them side-by-side, I was prepared to pay the £700 price premium for a smaller OLED TV, just because they looked so good sitting by themselves. But side-by-side, I thought the LG OLED looked a bit dim and the whites looked a bit grey like dirty snow.
Is this just showroom settings and it will look better at home?
davek_964 said:
creampuff said:
OK I'm bumping this thread.
I was about to pull the trigger on a 55" LG OLED 4K TV for £1,899...... that is until I saw it side-by-side with a Samsung 7000 series LCD TV. I could get a bigger 60" Samsung KS7000 for £1,199.
Prior to seeing them side-by-side, I was prepared to pay the £700 price premium for a smaller OLED TV, just because they looked so good sitting by themselves. But side-by-side, I thought the LG OLED looked a bit dim and the whites looked a bit grey like dirty snow.
Is this just showroom settings and it will look better at home?
I came to the opposite conclusion when seeing Samsung next to OLED playing the same content. I'd loved to have saved the difference, but to me the OLED was noticeably better with the same film content. Had it since Friday, and happy I made the correct choice.I was about to pull the trigger on a 55" LG OLED 4K TV for £1,899...... that is until I saw it side-by-side with a Samsung 7000 series LCD TV. I could get a bigger 60" Samsung KS7000 for £1,199.
Prior to seeing them side-by-side, I was prepared to pay the £700 price premium for a smaller OLED TV, just because they looked so good sitting by themselves. But side-by-side, I thought the LG OLED looked a bit dim and the whites looked a bit grey like dirty snow.
Is this just showroom settings and it will look better at home?
Having just done a full 21 point greyscale calibration on my LG B6, I went through a few Blu-Rays and Netflix offerings last night to see what difference it's made.
Switching between picture modes (ISF, Vivid, Sport, cinema etc.) there's a huge difference now between say Vivid or even Standard and my calibrated setting.
A casual observer might say the calibrated setting looks duller with less bright whites and under-saturated colours.
In fact, even the 'standard' setting blows the whites completely and in a dark Blu-Ray film scene you can see all sorts of nasty artifacts caused by over-saturation and the levels all generally being too high.
The human eye/visual cortex is very good at adapting to different lighting conditions and especially at balancing whites. If you look at two TVs in a brightly-lit showroom, regardless of the technology, at first glance the one with higher contrast/brightness/WB settings is probably going to look 'better' as it will look 'whiter' even if it actually isn't white in the technical sense.
IMO, the LG B6 has no lack of white 'headroom'. If you really want to make it bright, there's plenty of adjustment there, but you may risk losing out elsewhere. I'm completely happy I'm getting all the shadow detail available from my sources now, which was always more important to me than overly bright highlights. Unless you are watching it in a ridiculously bright room, I can't see how an LED is going to do better than an OLED.
What's really telling is if you watch some UHD HDR material, such as the Dolby Vision stuff on Netflix. The big advantage Dolby Vision has is that the metadata contained within the video stream controls the display for you, so you know the final picture is going to be as close to the original master as possible. A Dolby Vision HDR clip is possibly the best readily available source material to judge these TVs on, but I think it may only be LG who supports it currently.
Switching between picture modes (ISF, Vivid, Sport, cinema etc.) there's a huge difference now between say Vivid or even Standard and my calibrated setting.
A casual observer might say the calibrated setting looks duller with less bright whites and under-saturated colours.
In fact, even the 'standard' setting blows the whites completely and in a dark Blu-Ray film scene you can see all sorts of nasty artifacts caused by over-saturation and the levels all generally being too high.
The human eye/visual cortex is very good at adapting to different lighting conditions and especially at balancing whites. If you look at two TVs in a brightly-lit showroom, regardless of the technology, at first glance the one with higher contrast/brightness/WB settings is probably going to look 'better' as it will look 'whiter' even if it actually isn't white in the technical sense.
IMO, the LG B6 has no lack of white 'headroom'. If you really want to make it bright, there's plenty of adjustment there, but you may risk losing out elsewhere. I'm completely happy I'm getting all the shadow detail available from my sources now, which was always more important to me than overly bright highlights. Unless you are watching it in a ridiculously bright room, I can't see how an LED is going to do better than an OLED.
What's really telling is if you watch some UHD HDR material, such as the Dolby Vision stuff on Netflix. The big advantage Dolby Vision has is that the metadata contained within the video stream controls the display for you, so you know the final picture is going to be as close to the original master as possible. A Dolby Vision HDR clip is possibly the best readily available source material to judge these TVs on, but I think it may only be LG who supports it currently.
Seeing the oled along side a Samsung convinced me that OLED was the mutts. I was looking for many things in the picture and it ticked all the box s, the led as a close second but them blacks are just mental and that does a lot for the picture.
Get a LG Chess HDR demo on a stick and ask nicely at the shop. Take a spare pair of socks as yours will be blown away.
However, whatever you are happy with is the way to go.
Get a LG Chess HDR demo on a stick and ask nicely at the shop. Take a spare pair of socks as yours will be blown away.
However, whatever you are happy with is the way to go.
Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 29th November 19:46
FurtiveFreddy said:
Having just done a full 21 point greyscale calibration on my LG B6, I went through a few Blu-Rays and Netflix offerings last night to see what difference it's made.
Switching between picture modes (ISF, Vivid, Sport, cinema etc.) there's a huge difference now between say Vivid or even Standard and my calibrated setting.
A casual observer might say the calibrated setting looks duller with less bright whites and under-saturated colours.
In fact, even the 'standard' setting blows the whites completely and in a dark Blu-Ray film scene you can see all sorts of nasty artifacts caused by over-saturation and the levels all generally being too high.
The human eye/visual cortex is very good at adapting to different lighting conditions and especially at balancing whites. If you look at two TVs in a brightly-lit showroom, regardless of the technology, at first glance the one with higher contrast/brightness/WB settings is probably going to look 'better' as it will look 'whiter' even if it actually isn't white in the technical sense.
IMO, the LG B6 has no lack of white 'headroom'. If you really want to make it bright, there's plenty of adjustment there, but you may risk losing out elsewhere. I'm completely happy I'm getting all the shadow detail available from my sources now, which was always more important to me than overly bright highlights. Unless you are watching it in a ridiculously bright room, I can't see how an LED is going to do better than an OLED.
What's really telling is if you watch some UHD HDR material, such as the Dolby Vision stuff on Netflix. The big advantage Dolby Vision has is that the metadata contained within the video stream controls the display for you, so you know the final picture is going to be as close to the original master as possible. A Dolby Vision HDR clip is possibly the best readily available source material to judge these TVs on, but I think it may only be LG who supports it currently.
So you recommend calibration? I had my Kuro done many years back, because it seemed to be the answer to crushed blacks. I was thinking I probably wouldn't bother with the LG but if the difference is significant.....Switching between picture modes (ISF, Vivid, Sport, cinema etc.) there's a huge difference now between say Vivid or even Standard and my calibrated setting.
A casual observer might say the calibrated setting looks duller with less bright whites and under-saturated colours.
In fact, even the 'standard' setting blows the whites completely and in a dark Blu-Ray film scene you can see all sorts of nasty artifacts caused by over-saturation and the levels all generally being too high.
The human eye/visual cortex is very good at adapting to different lighting conditions and especially at balancing whites. If you look at two TVs in a brightly-lit showroom, regardless of the technology, at first glance the one with higher contrast/brightness/WB settings is probably going to look 'better' as it will look 'whiter' even if it actually isn't white in the technical sense.
IMO, the LG B6 has no lack of white 'headroom'. If you really want to make it bright, there's plenty of adjustment there, but you may risk losing out elsewhere. I'm completely happy I'm getting all the shadow detail available from my sources now, which was always more important to me than overly bright highlights. Unless you are watching it in a ridiculously bright room, I can't see how an LED is going to do better than an OLED.
What's really telling is if you watch some UHD HDR material, such as the Dolby Vision stuff on Netflix. The big advantage Dolby Vision has is that the metadata contained within the video stream controls the display for you, so you know the final picture is going to be as close to the original master as possible. A Dolby Vision HDR clip is possibly the best readily available source material to judge these TVs on, but I think it may only be LG who supports it currently.
I personally wouldn't get the calibration done straight away, not least because the screen will need a few hundred hours burn in time before it relaxes in, but also because OLED will most likely already be very impressive, then 6 months down the line or so have a calibration done and you get to notice an even better picture.
davek_964 said:
So you recommend calibration? I had my Kuro done many years back, because it seemed to be the answer to crushed blacks. I was thinking I probably wouldn't bother with the LG but if the difference is significant.....
I've read many threads about it now, both on the AV and AVS forums and I've spent quite a few hours running and re-running the calibrations to make sure I'm doing it right and that I'm getting consistency in the results.I also viewed various source material through different inputs, using different settings on inputs and ISF modes so I could quickly switch between different calibrations to see what the difference was and to make sure I was making improvements and not heading off down a blind alley.
The conclusion I've come to is that the LG definitely tends to have too much green in the WB as it comes from the factory. That seems to be accepted by most, but even then all the colours needed knocking down a fair bit along the IRE scale for me to end up with a flat graph and looking at other examples on the specialist forums, this is also the general trend.
So, what I've ended up with after calibration is a significant difference between the factory settings and mine in the setup menu, which translates to a noticeable difference in the picture. Something I found interesting was that when compared to the built-in presets, my calibrated settings were fairly close to the 'cinema' preset, which made me think I probably hadn't made any fundamental errors during the process.
Would I recommend it? Yes, but I realise the cost of someone doing it for you might seem out of proportion given the price these TVs are now selling for. If it was a £10,000 display, then it factors in a little easier.
If you can club together with a few mates who are also upgrading to new TVs then the cost of buying a decent colorimeter and some software shared between you would be well worth it IMO.
Ultimately, if crushed blacks are your main concern and you're not that fussed about getting a perfect greyscale, you don't need the colorimeter anyway. Just download some free test patterns and you can set the brightness, contrast, colour and tint accurately and that should get you close to where you want to be.
I'm a perfectionist, so I couldn't watch my TV knowing that SOMETHING might not be quite right...
There is zero point making comparisons in store imho.
The default picture settings for coming out of the box, designed to make images 'pop' in store, will 9 times out of 10 make the screen that can go brighter look the best. In reality you will never, and I mean never, sit at home with the settings cranked up like that.
If you have an LCD now, sit at night in your room and turn contrast and backlight to 10, now, the KS7000 will go to 1000nits bright, most LCDs from 2015 and previous years would do around 200-350 nits.
So the TV in the shop will go to 4 maybe 5x brighter than what you have now.
Calibrated so your eyes don't go saw needs around 120 nits to put that in perspective. (HDR can do 1000 nits but only in certain scenes and not the whole image).
If you have the KS7000 set up as bright as in the store you will notice all the issues with backlight bleed and dirty screen effect.
There is a reason that everyone is saying the 2016 OLEDs are the best displays ever made.
When was retailed at £1200 and the other £3000 I could see why someone might not go for the
Not saying you wouldn't be happy with a KS7000, but now there is about £500 in it, and you had budgeted for the OLED I think you would be mad not to.
The default picture settings for coming out of the box, designed to make images 'pop' in store, will 9 times out of 10 make the screen that can go brighter look the best. In reality you will never, and I mean never, sit at home with the settings cranked up like that.
If you have an LCD now, sit at night in your room and turn contrast and backlight to 10, now, the KS7000 will go to 1000nits bright, most LCDs from 2015 and previous years would do around 200-350 nits.
So the TV in the shop will go to 4 maybe 5x brighter than what you have now.
Calibrated so your eyes don't go saw needs around 120 nits to put that in perspective. (HDR can do 1000 nits but only in certain scenes and not the whole image).
If you have the KS7000 set up as bright as in the store you will notice all the issues with backlight bleed and dirty screen effect.
There is a reason that everyone is saying the 2016 OLEDs are the best displays ever made.
When was retailed at £1200 and the other £3000 I could see why someone might not go for the
Not saying you wouldn't be happy with a KS7000, but now there is about £500 in it, and you had budgeted for the OLED I think you would be mad not to.
RobDickinson said:
ok so I have an LG 55B6T.
Watching sd tv form sat tuner, Netfix from built in app and bluray.
What settings do I need to tweak?
Do I need to do something to enable HDR/DV for netflix or will it just work?
It will automatically switch to HDR mode when you start watching it. To check, just go into the settings menu and you will see the picture mode has changed to HDR or Dolby Vision.Watching sd tv form sat tuner, Netfix from built in app and bluray.
What settings do I need to tweak?
Do I need to do something to enable HDR/DV for netflix or will it just work?
One thing to keep in mind with these TVs when you're tweaking settings or calibrating is that you can apply different settings to each and every source/input and that includes the apps like Amazon, Netflix, Plex etc.
So if you adjust the brightness, contrast, white balance, trumotion or whatever while you're watching something on the built in tuner, that change will only apply to the built in tuner. If you then switch to your blu ray player, you need to either copy across the settings or manually change them for that source.
legzr1 said:
£299 at Currys and the movies 'might be in the box. If not try this number and see if they have any stock left'.
Thanks, but errrr....
Looks like my delivery arrived and someone has syphoned off the DVD's..... contacting them to see what has happened. Box and delivery packaging opened.Thanks, but errrr....
jmorgan said:
Looks like my delivery arrived and someone has syphoned off the DVD's..... contacting them to see what has happened. Box and delivery packaging opened.
I had the same. One of the three discs were missing. A quick call to the Samsung number on the enclosed card and three more are on their way to me 
jmorgan said:
Ah right, have emailed the seller. See what they say tomorrow then try the Samsung route. What cables die you get in the box?
If that was RGB, they will just tell you to go direct to Samsung. It seems to have been an issue with Samsung direct, so you may as well call the 0330 number really.I'm now going to have 4 bloody copies of 'The Revenant' after accidentally ordering two Blu-Ray copies from Amazon and then deciding the next day I was going to get the Samsung UHD player with the free copy included, plus the additional one they're sending me.
All you get in the box is the mains lead and remote control, so you will need to get your own HDMI cable.
Edited by FurtiveFreddy on Thursday 1st December 09:53
FurtiveFreddy said:
jmorgan said:
Ah right, have emailed the seller. See what they say tomorrow then try the Samsung route. What cables die you get in the box?
If that was RGB, they will just tell you to go direct to Samsung. It seems to have been an issue with Samsung direct, so you may as well call the 0330 number really.I'm now going to have 4 bloody copies of 'The Revenant' after accidentally ordering two Blu-Ray copies from Amazon and then deciding the next day I was going to get the Samsung UHD player with the free copy included, plus the additional one they're sending me.
All you get in the box is the mains lead and remote control, so you will need to get your own HDMI cable.
Edited by FurtiveFreddy on Thursday 1st December 09:53
Just checking my accessory box had the right bits. I have a spare lead or three.
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