55" OLED or 65" LED TV...
Discussion
I'm not sure even this years 65" model will be £1500 by the end of next year, unless the 2017 model is cheaper to begin with forcing the price of the old one down.
Until the technology starts to scale more the price isn't going to come down, they're firmly placed at top of the market and selling well. Their lowest model beats all other TV technologies out there, so it's not like they have any real competition.
Until the technology starts to scale more the price isn't going to come down, they're firmly placed at top of the market and selling well. Their lowest model beats all other TV technologies out there, so it's not like they have any real competition.
Just seen you can get a 55 B6 for £1710 From Currys with code TV10, and it seems LG are offering a 5 year warranty (purely because a lot of retailers are offering it) sadly already having Sky Q I can't take advantage of the offer but still think this is my breaking point, just in time for Christmas! Now to find a PS4 Pro deal...
Digitalize said:
Just seen you can get a 55 B6 for £1710 From Currys with code TV10, and it seems LG are offering a 5 year warranty (purely because a lot of retailers are offering it) sadly already having Sky Q I can't take advantage of the offer but still think this is my breaking point, just in time for Christmas! Now to find a PS4 Pro deal...
The Sky Q deal is a bit pony anyway, if you're a Sky subscriber it is basically £12 a month saved, but you have to pay for the install, so it is only around £44 saved. If you are not with Sky it works out better at around £32 a month saved, but still need to pay the install, so around £260 saved.
If you actually want Sky UHD though it will cost you more on top for Cinema, Sports or both.
Managed to get Richer Sounds to price match as the warranty is store offered. Updated it and still fiddling getting everything back in place.
I know all panels are different etc but does anyone have a link to some rough settings, things on/off, so far just set it to ISF Dark and turned everything off, and changed the Gamma to 2.4 in HDR. Trying to avoid the AVForums thread as it's usually full of all the nitpick issues that don't matter.
I know all panels are different etc but does anyone have a link to some rough settings, things on/off, so far just set it to ISF Dark and turned everything off, and changed the Gamma to 2.4 in HDR. Trying to avoid the AVForums thread as it's usually full of all the nitpick issues that don't matter.
Digitalize said:
Managed to get Richer Sounds to price match as the warranty is store offered. Updated it and still fiddling getting everything back in place.
I know all panels are different etc but does anyone have a link to some rough settings, things on/off, so far just set it to ISF Dark and turned everything off, and changed the Gamma to 2.4 in HDR. Trying to avoid the AVForums thread as it's usually full of all the nitpick issues that don't matter.
This is the review on there, which is a good summary. Stutter problem is now fixed in the latest firmware.I know all panels are different etc but does anyone have a link to some rough settings, things on/off, so far just set it to ISF Dark and turned everything off, and changed the Gamma to 2.4 in HDR. Trying to avoid the AVForums thread as it's usually full of all the nitpick issues that don't matter.
https://www.avforums.com/review/lg-b6-oled55b6v-uh...
I'd advise downloading the basic test patterns which will enable you to set white and black levels. That will be a big step forward in itself. As a rough guide, from my calibrations and what I've read from others, most people are around 93-96 for contrast, 54-56 for brightness, normal gamut and gamma 2.2 or 2.4. You could start with OLED at 60 but that setting is up to your personal preference.
All other processing off, apart from Trumotion, which you'll want to play around with otherwise you will see strobing with some content.
There's not much point copying anyone else's settings for white balance as every panel will be different, but it's accepted that there's too much green in most of them, but you need a spectrometer to set it up correctly.
Don't forget to copy the settings to all the inputs.
Yeah I'm not really worrying about doing anything colour wise as I know you need to do it per panel, I've got a Spyder 4 Pro for my work so might look in to how I can use it to calibrate this.
Mainly just enjoying it with a few quick tweaks at the moment and letting it 'run in' a bit. One annoying thing is I need HDMI-CEC on for ARC to work to get audio to my surround sound, but the TV seems baffled that I have multiple inputs from one source and keeps switching to different sources etc, wish I could turn it off and keep ARC on.
It's gorgeous though, it's managed to so far exceed my expectations, but it also shows up some bad quality content pretty well, about to watch the last Planet Earth 2 so hopefully that holds up, shame BBC haven't got their act together with 4K iPlayer yet.
Mainly just enjoying it with a few quick tweaks at the moment and letting it 'run in' a bit. One annoying thing is I need HDMI-CEC on for ARC to work to get audio to my surround sound, but the TV seems baffled that I have multiple inputs from one source and keeps switching to different sources etc, wish I could turn it off and keep ARC on.
It's gorgeous though, it's managed to so far exceed my expectations, but it also shows up some bad quality content pretty well, about to watch the last Planet Earth 2 so hopefully that holds up, shame BBC haven't got their act together with 4K iPlayer yet.
FurtiveFreddy said:
This is the review on there, which is a good summary. Stutter problem is now fixed in the latest firmware.
https://www.avforums.com/review/lg-b6-oled55b6v-uh...
I'd advise downloading the basic test patterns which will enable you to set white and black levels. That will be a big step forward in itself. As a rough guide, from my calibrations and what I've read from others, most people are around 93-96 for contrast, 54-56 for brightness, normal gamut and gamma 2.2 or 2.4. You could start with OLED at 60 but that setting is up to your personal preference.
All other processing off, apart from Trumotion, which you'll want to play around with otherwise you will see strobing with some content.
There's not much point copying anyone else's settings for white balance as every panel will be different, but it's accepted that there's too much green in most of them, but you need a spectrometer to set it up correctly.
Don't forget to copy the settings to all the inputs.
That's pretty bright compared to the settings that most people are using on the AVForums thread. Popular settings there are :https://www.avforums.com/review/lg-b6-oled55b6v-uh...
I'd advise downloading the basic test patterns which will enable you to set white and black levels. That will be a big step forward in itself. As a rough guide, from my calibrations and what I've read from others, most people are around 93-96 for contrast, 54-56 for brightness, normal gamut and gamma 2.2 or 2.4. You could start with OLED at 60 but that setting is up to your personal preference.
All other processing off, apart from Trumotion, which you'll want to play around with otherwise you will see strobing with some content.
There's not much point copying anyone else's settings for white balance as every panel will be different, but it's accepted that there's too much green in most of them, but you need a spectrometer to set it up correctly.
Don't forget to copy the settings to all the inputs.
OLED 50
Contrast 75
Brightness 51
Horizontal / vertical sharpness 15
Colour 45
A lot of us find that in picture options, setting motion to user with de-judder 5 is a good compromise for judder.
I'm undecided if I prefer contrast at 75 or higher - 75 looks most natural but higher makes the picture pop more so I sometimes switch to 80 when playing around with the settings.
Brightness test patterns suggest my brightness should be around 57 but that causes quite bad blocking in some darks scenes on streamed sources.
It's all personal preference obviously but I did feel things were a little overdone last night. I was watching in the pitch black though.
I might just delve in to the AVForums thread but I always try and avoid them otherwise I'll find out it has various tiny faults I never would have even seen!
Currently debating if I plug everything directly in to the TV and then use ARC for sound to the amp, is there any downsides to this? Other than extra cables to the TV to hide.
I might just delve in to the AVForums thread but I always try and avoid them otherwise I'll find out it has various tiny faults I never would have even seen!
Currently debating if I plug everything directly in to the TV and then use ARC for sound to the amp, is there any downsides to this? Other than extra cables to the TV to hide.
That's why using other people's settings can only be a starting point.
We never watch TV in a really dark room, so my settings might be too bright for some, but I must have spent about 12 hours in total over several days learning how to calibrate and doing 3 or 4 full 21 pt calibrations on mine just to check my consistency and to make sure I wasn't making any fundamental mistakes.
I also tried other 'recommended' settings from various people on the AV and AVS forums to see how they compared. This is where I ended up.
I was initially surprised my contrast setting (for non-HDR) was so high, but having rechecked it and compared different settings with different sources and content, this is where I want it on my particular B6.
Some of it is personal preference, of course.
We never watch TV in a really dark room, so my settings might be too bright for some, but I must have spent about 12 hours in total over several days learning how to calibrate and doing 3 or 4 full 21 pt calibrations on mine just to check my consistency and to make sure I wasn't making any fundamental mistakes.
I also tried other 'recommended' settings from various people on the AV and AVS forums to see how they compared. This is where I ended up.
I was initially surprised my contrast setting (for non-HDR) was so high, but having rechecked it and compared different settings with different sources and content, this is where I want it on my particular B6.
Some of it is personal preference, of course.
Edited by FurtiveFreddy on Sunday 18th December 13:04
I prefer the OLED backlight up high, around 90, and then have contrast down at around 60, the main benefit of this is the auto light limiter is far less aggressive, when you get a scene with a mass of bright white it stays proper white.
Maybe the B6 doesn't suffer as much as the earlier OLEDs in this regard, but try it and see what you think.
Maybe the B6 doesn't suffer as much as the earlier OLEDs in this regard, but try it and see what you think.
Digitalize said:
Currently debating if I plug everything directly in to the TV and then use ARC for sound to the amp, is there any downsides to this? Other than extra cables to the TV to hide.
If your AV amp handles 4K HDR (hdcp 2.2) then it would make sense to connect everything to the amp and a single lead from amp to TV.Mine doesn't but, until SkyQ is delivered, the only off-board 4K source I have is a Samsung UHD player - I send video direct to TV and secondary HDMI to AV amp for DTS/True HD etc.
legzr1 said:
If your AV amp handles 4K HDR (hdcp 2.2) then it would make sense to connect everything to the amp and a single lead from amp to TV.
Mine doesn't but, until SkyQ is delivered, the only off-board 4K source I have is a Samsung UHD player - I send video direct to TV and secondary HDMI to AV amp for DTS/True HD etc.
It does but to get HDMI ARC for the built in Netflix/Prime/YouTube apps I have to have HDMI-CEC on and it seems to really confuse the TV, plus I have to have one picture setting for TV and gaming.Mine doesn't but, until SkyQ is delivered, the only off-board 4K source I have is a Samsung UHD player - I send video direct to TV and secondary HDMI to AV amp for DTS/True HD etc.
Thinking of plugging the Sky Q box straight in to the TV then having PS4 go through the amp, this will keep the PS4's Audio uncompressed which isn't an issue for Sky Q as it's all compressed anyway.
Why not run a toslink from TV to input on amp?
It's capable of DD/DTS and the apps don't (as far as I know) stream any HD audio for now so you're not losing out on sound quality.
It's what I do for Netflix and YouTube app.
All sorted for £4.
Edited to add:
I'm not a gamer but get stuck into those instructions for the TV - I'm sure it can flick between picture settings automatically within an HDMI input dependant on the video source detected (cinema with a 24P input then game when 60P is detected).
It's capable of DD/DTS and the apps don't (as far as I know) stream any HD audio for now so you're not losing out on sound quality.
It's what I do for Netflix and YouTube app.
All sorted for £4.
Edited to add:
I'm not a gamer but get stuck into those instructions for the TV - I'm sure it can flick between picture settings automatically within an HDMI input dependant on the video source detected (cinema with a 24P input then game when 60P is detected).
Edited by legzr1 on Sunday 18th December 17:13
I could do TOSlink but it's just another cable really, lots of options that would work, as long as the PS4 goes straight to the amp there won't be any difference in sound quality as it's my only device that does PCM.
A lot to learn about the TV yeah, just enjoying it at the moment will delve in deeper once the initial honeymoon period is over.
A lot to learn about the TV yeah, just enjoying it at the moment will delve in deeper once the initial honeymoon period is over.
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