Monitor Audio GS10 driver failed - advice please
Discussion
I was watching Taboo last night through my CA Azur 640R receiver, Tannoy sub and Monitor Audio GS10's when there was almighty racket caused, presumably, by some sort of electrical surge. (the kids were watching TV on the other system and they had the same experience).
The other system was fine but the audio on the one I was listening to failed.
I've just had a look and it's blown the circuit in the amp I was using (Video 1). Swapped over to Video 2 and I have audio again - or at least most of it. The sub is fine, the LH speaker is fine but the larger cone in the RH speaker is motionless.
I was wondering in whether there is some sort of protection in there - ie a fuse that might have blown? Can't see any mention to that in the manual.
If not, maybe the cross over or the speaker itself?
Any advice?
Are there still old fashioned hifi repair type places out there if I can't figure it out?
EDIT found one that's 5 minutes away. I'll head over tomorrow if I can't see a fuse to replace.
The other system was fine but the audio on the one I was listening to failed.
I've just had a look and it's blown the circuit in the amp I was using (Video 1). Swapped over to Video 2 and I have audio again - or at least most of it. The sub is fine, the LH speaker is fine but the larger cone in the RH speaker is motionless.
I was wondering in whether there is some sort of protection in there - ie a fuse that might have blown? Can't see any mention to that in the manual.
If not, maybe the cross over or the speaker itself?
Any advice?
Are there still old fashioned hifi repair type places out there if I can't figure it out?
EDIT found one that's 5 minutes away. I'll head over tomorrow if I can't see a fuse to replace.
Edited by AC43 on Sunday 5th February 09:45
A quick way to determine if a drive unit is fried is to lightly push it in (with your fingers on the outside edge) and listen/feel for any graunching or resistance.
Given the nature of what has happened, it's probably best you get them both to someone who can give them the once over.
Monitor Audio have always been pretty good with availability of spares so you shouldn't have too much trouble in sourcing a replacement drive unit.
Given the nature of what has happened, it's probably best you get them both to someone who can give them the once over.
Monitor Audio have always been pretty good with availability of spares so you shouldn't have too much trouble in sourcing a replacement drive unit.
Frances The Mute said:
A quick way to determine if a drive unit is fried is to lightly push it in (with your fingers on the outside edge) and listen/feel for any graunching or resistance.
Given the nature of what has happened, it's probably best you get them both to someone who can give them the once over.
Monitor Audio have always been pretty good with availability of spares so you shouldn't have too much trouble in sourcing a replacement drive unit.
Yes, I'm trying to to get a session booked with a local repair outfit.Given the nature of what has happened, it's probably best you get them both to someone who can give them the once over.
Monitor Audio have always been pretty good with availability of spares so you shouldn't have too much trouble in sourcing a replacement drive unit.
Best approach I think.
My old faithful Mordaunt Short speakers are fused - very useful when your mate gets a CD spinning then winds the volume round to full chat because they don't realise the amp has a 10 second warm up period.
If your speakers are similarly fused, I'd expect these to be visible and readily accessible - the fuses on my MS units are on the back panel, just below the speaker connectors.
If not, I doubt there's much to your crossover circuitry and an old-school repair guy should be able to identify any popped components.
[ Edit to add - just read that the GS10s have internal push-on connections to the crossover PCB, not soldered. If yours are like this, you could easily swap the PCBs between speakers.
If the problem moves from Speaker 1 to Speaker 2, it's the crossover. If the fault stays with Speaker 1 after you've swapped crossovers, it's the speaker itself. ]
If your speakers are similarly fused, I'd expect these to be visible and readily accessible - the fuses on my MS units are on the back panel, just below the speaker connectors.
If not, I doubt there's much to your crossover circuitry and an old-school repair guy should be able to identify any popped components.
[ Edit to add - just read that the GS10s have internal push-on connections to the crossover PCB, not soldered. If yours are like this, you could easily swap the PCBs between speakers.
If the problem moves from Speaker 1 to Speaker 2, it's the crossover. If the fault stays with Speaker 1 after you've swapped crossovers, it's the speaker itself. ]
Edited by SS2. on Monday 6th February 14:35
SS2. said:
My old faithful Mordaunt Short speakers are fused - very useful when your mate gets a CD spinning then winds the volume round to full chat because they don't realise the amp has a 10 second warm up period.
If your speakers are similarly fused, I'd expect these to be visible and readily accessible - the fuses on my MS units are on the back panel, just below the speaker connectors.
If not, I doubt there's much to your crossover circuitry and an old-school repair guy should be able to identify any popped components.
[ Edit to add - just read that the GS10s have internal push-on connections to the crossover PCB, not soldered. If yours are like this, you could easily swap the PCBs between speakers.
If the problem moves from Speaker 1 to Speaker 2, it's the crossover. If the fault stays with Speaker 1 after you've swapped crossovers, it's the speaker itself. ]
Thanks. I haven't had a chance to have a look yet but will do when I have a few minutes spare. If your speakers are similarly fused, I'd expect these to be visible and readily accessible - the fuses on my MS units are on the back panel, just below the speaker connectors.
If not, I doubt there's much to your crossover circuitry and an old-school repair guy should be able to identify any popped components.
[ Edit to add - just read that the GS10s have internal push-on connections to the crossover PCB, not soldered. If yours are like this, you could easily swap the PCBs between speakers.
If the problem moves from Speaker 1 to Speaker 2, it's the crossover. If the fault stays with Speaker 1 after you've swapped crossovers, it's the speaker itself. ]
Edited by SS2. on Monday 6th February 14:35
At that price I'd expect them to be fused but it's good to know I can swap the crossovers and try that.
Some Gump said:
Just whip the drivers out and swap over. Much easier than messing with the crossover for first diagnosis.
If iyt is a crossover, you might be able to repair it, but its dead easy to just replace the whole thing. Proper HiFi shop for a repair, but replacement is easy diy.
Had a go but can't find an allen key that fits well enough and don't want to chew up the bolts.If iyt is a crossover, you might be able to repair it, but its dead easy to just replace the whole thing. Proper HiFi shop for a repair, but replacement is easy diy.
Off to a hi fi repair shop next week*
Meanwhile I've dug out some old Tannoy satellites as stand ins.
And ordered a Monitor Audio Radius centre speaker - can't wait to hear that,
When I get it all re-assembled I'll be able to listen to music in 2.1 and TV/films in 3.1
Onwards and upwards.
- they've offered to upgrade both drivers to titanium ones. Must. Resist. The. Tempation.
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