Slave seal/ bearing condition (with photos).
Discussion
Hi All,
Yay I finally got the bell housing off, gearbox out and slave cylinder removed.
Thanks for everybodys input - I found your help invaluable.
Just a few questions:
1) The surfaces of the slave cylinder look great. So just to change the 2 rubber seals then?
2) The bearing on to of the cylinder is definitely shagged - what are my options here and who should I call?
3) What should I clean the whole area with as the bell housing is caked in muck.
4) Anybody had any experience with first gear problems as mine will jump out every now and then when moving away from standstill. ? Is it worth a quick investigation inside the gearbox to spot the obvious? I want to sort this whilst everything is off the car. Also the spline end is getting rusty too. Can this be prevented in future?
Yay I finally got the bell housing off, gearbox out and slave cylinder removed.
Thanks for everybodys input - I found your help invaluable.
Just a few questions:
1) The surfaces of the slave cylinder look great. So just to change the 2 rubber seals then?
2) The bearing on to of the cylinder is definitely shagged - what are my options here and who should I call?
3) What should I clean the whole area with as the bell housing is caked in muck.
4) Anybody had any experience with first gear problems as mine will jump out every now and then when moving away from standstill. ? Is it worth a quick investigation inside the gearbox to spot the obvious? I want to sort this whilst everything is off the car. Also the spline end is getting rusty too. Can this be prevented in future?
if its jumping out in first, you probably have a slightly bent/work selector/shift arm, nothing too major and can be replaced without having to strip the box a great deal. Would deffo do it otherwise you will probably wear out the first gear set.
The box is easy to strip down and can give you a little guidance if necessary. Taking the top off will take you about 20 mins and gives you access to the rest of the box, I tend to strip the first gear syncro out and check them as a matter of course just in case, as its dead easy and the box is only sealed with silicon anyway, so for the sake of a look it could save people money down the line. Often they are OK as the T5 is actually a very strong box.
Also now I think about it, your input shaft should have ZERO play on it, most I have seen have some degree of play and this should be eliminated ASAP as it can also cause dropping out of gear as it keeps the whole input/output shaft under tension. Working out shim size is easy with a good vernier, you just need to get hold of a shim or have a machinist make one for you (as I do).
So long as the splines are clean, the retainer is unimportant as it does not touch anything, clean with a wire brush and apply a smear (and JUST a smear) of copper clip on the splines will help hot disengagement of the clutch as they can stick, so the pedal follows your foot a fraction of a second later.
As for bearing, its available on TVR parts for less than £20, unsure if there is an alternative from your local motor factors. probably!
I tend to clean up with a good load of petrol as its bloody cheap! and then bead blast the whole bell housing so it looks like new, people KNow you have done something then as its nice and shiney! I doubt you have access to a blaster so just a good scrub with some fuel, ive tried a lot of things and its the best at shifting grease (well cellulose thinners is better but that you HAVE to be careful with!).
As for seals, yep just replace them. Forgotten if there is a larger third one or weather that is just the RP slave...
Jody
How many times must I edit this before I remember everything I want to say!
The box is easy to strip down and can give you a little guidance if necessary. Taking the top off will take you about 20 mins and gives you access to the rest of the box, I tend to strip the first gear syncro out and check them as a matter of course just in case, as its dead easy and the box is only sealed with silicon anyway, so for the sake of a look it could save people money down the line. Often they are OK as the T5 is actually a very strong box.
Also now I think about it, your input shaft should have ZERO play on it, most I have seen have some degree of play and this should be eliminated ASAP as it can also cause dropping out of gear as it keeps the whole input/output shaft under tension. Working out shim size is easy with a good vernier, you just need to get hold of a shim or have a machinist make one for you (as I do).
So long as the splines are clean, the retainer is unimportant as it does not touch anything, clean with a wire brush and apply a smear (and JUST a smear) of copper clip on the splines will help hot disengagement of the clutch as they can stick, so the pedal follows your foot a fraction of a second later.
As for bearing, its available on TVR parts for less than £20, unsure if there is an alternative from your local motor factors. probably!
I tend to clean up with a good load of petrol as its bloody cheap! and then bead blast the whole bell housing so it looks like new, people KNow you have done something then as its nice and shiney! I doubt you have access to a blaster so just a good scrub with some fuel, ive tried a lot of things and its the best at shifting grease (well cellulose thinners is better but that you HAVE to be careful with!).
As for seals, yep just replace them. Forgotten if there is a larger third one or weather that is just the RP slave...
Jody
How many times must I edit this before I remember everything I want to say!
Edited by tofts on Thursday 5th May 21:34
tofts said:
The box is easy to strip down and can give you a little guidance if necessary. Taking the top off will take you about 20 mins and gives you access to the rest of the box,
I've always had to take the tail off first.There are some really good videos here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9csOWX_olE
I've fitted his 5th gear stabiliser, good insurance for $50.
Thanks for your amazingly quick reply Jody.
I will take you up on your offer to possibly guide me through a gearbox check, especially for the possible bent selector in first. Please PM me if necessary or go through here for the benefit of others if required.
My input shaft definitely has a bit of play in it and it was one of the first things i noticed and thought strange. I did actually drop the gearbox onto it as it came out through the manifolds. I cursed but it is done now.
I will have to investigate further how to remove the dodgy bearing. Maybe the parts list sticky has a number?
I actually cannot believe the amount of work needed to potentially just change those two rubber slave seals! They actually look ok but will definitely be changed.
I will take you up on your offer to possibly guide me through a gearbox check, especially for the possible bent selector in first. Please PM me if necessary or go through here for the benefit of others if required.
My input shaft definitely has a bit of play in it and it was one of the first things i noticed and thought strange. I did actually drop the gearbox onto it as it came out through the manifolds. I cursed but it is done now.
I will have to investigate further how to remove the dodgy bearing. Maybe the parts list sticky has a number?
I actually cannot believe the amount of work needed to potentially just change those two rubber slave seals! They actually look ok but will definitely be changed.
I've replaced the seals before, seemed like good value for £30. A few months later more leaks meant I had to go back again and that time I fitted an RP Slave, which has lasted nearly four years so far. However it takes me a lot longer to take the gearbox off, because I always remove the exhaust manifolds first.
ukkid35 said:
I've always had to take the tail off first.
Of course yes, there is no other way. But I don't think it should take more than 20 mins. A punch, 14mm spanner, 10mm spanner and a flat screwdriver I think will do it!I was going to mention about the RP slave, the one in this cerbera has 20k on it and it's still in excellent condition. I should take some photos as it really does look like new! No scoring, bearing is good etc. Only issue had was a sticky clutch when hit but this is just splines.
The input shaft play is normal, the bearings wear as they are designed to. But they are tapered so a simple shim brings it back in spec. I need to do the shim on a box I have on the bench so can give you a quick write up tomorrow when I'm down the workshop. Can probably get a few picks.
Although somebody may beat me to the puch (Paul!
)
There is a comprehensive T5 manual on the Web for free, which gives you everything about it. But it's always better to have someone run you through it if your not sure.
J
Although somebody may beat me to the puch (Paul!
)There is a comprehensive T5 manual on the Web for free, which gives you everything about it. But it's always better to have someone run you through it if your not sure.
J
Wolvesboy said:
Thanks for your amazingly quick reply Jody.
I will take you up on your offer to possibly guide me through a gearbox check, especially for the possible bent selector in first. Please PM me if necessary or go through here for the benefit of others if required.
My input shaft definitely has a bit of play in it and it was one of the first things i noticed and thought strange. I did actually drop the gearbox onto it as it came out through the manifolds. I cursed but it is done now.
I will have to investigate further how to remove the dodgy bearing. Maybe the parts list sticky has a number?
I actually cannot believe the amount of work needed to potentially just change those two rubber slave seals! They actually look ok but will definitely be changed.
Gearbox rebuild manual is here should you need it. http://www.tvr-cerbera.co.uk/GearBoxManual/I will take you up on your offer to possibly guide me through a gearbox check, especially for the possible bent selector in first. Please PM me if necessary or go through here for the benefit of others if required.
My input shaft definitely has a bit of play in it and it was one of the first things i noticed and thought strange. I did actually drop the gearbox onto it as it came out through the manifolds. I cursed but it is done now.
I will have to investigate further how to remove the dodgy bearing. Maybe the parts list sticky has a number?
I actually cannot believe the amount of work needed to potentially just change those two rubber slave seals! They actually look ok but will definitely be changed.
The pdf gives a step-by-step strip and rebuild including the factory tolerances for the various end floats.
In my case jumping out of low gears was caused by very worn synchromesh cones rather than a bent selector, but either can cause that symptom.
Hi wolvesboy,
You mentioned replacing two seals on the slave! There are four in total, i would recommend you replace them all.
You can get all four in a kit from Racetech, they also sell the release bearing.
But if i were you i would consider a raceproved slave, they do get good reveiws. You can buy them pre-built.
Good luck with what ever you decide.
Oh, and interesting stuff, about the gearbox, mines out at the moment, suspended under the car above the manifolds..... Might go out and give me shaft a wiggle!!!........ Should i wiggle it from side to side?..... Or backwards and forwards???
You mentioned replacing two seals on the slave! There are four in total, i would recommend you replace them all.
You can get all four in a kit from Racetech, they also sell the release bearing.
But if i were you i would consider a raceproved slave, they do get good reveiws. You can buy them pre-built.
Good luck with what ever you decide.
Oh, and interesting stuff, about the gearbox, mines out at the moment, suspended under the car above the manifolds..... Might go out and give me shaft a wiggle!!!........ Should i wiggle it from side to side?..... Or backwards and forwards???
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