Reverse/brake lights not working

Reverse/brake lights not working

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BuckeyeTVR

Original Poster:

13 posts

100 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
I'm relatively new to this forum although the contents has been very valuable to me so far so very grateful for that.

I'm in the US and brought my S with me. I'm not quite sure why this happened, but my brake and reverse lights suddenly don't work anymore. I know they worked before shipping to the US but maybe something happened on the way over (she got left in the rain for some time at the port, needed several days to dry the interior) so maybe that did something to the electrics?

Since these two lights use the same fuse, my first reaction was checking that. It didn't look damaged and replaced the fuse (10 Amp) but made no difference.

Tried to use a bulb current tester but to no avail when prodding around the cluster. I have to mention that I'm not terribly handy - not a great combination as a TVR owner!!

Have any of you had this particular problem? Could it be the earthing? Where is that located for this particular wire?

My rear light cluster's connectors are generally quite sensitive. When you move them about, the connections come and go. I've seen a post where zip ties were used to hold it in place. Have you got any other tips to improve the connection points?

Thanks in advance for help on this!

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
BuckeyeTVR said:
Could it be the earthing?
Unlikely if side lights and indicators are ok?

without mastering the use of a tester it really is like a deaf man trying to cure a squeak!


As you've said the connections are very "touchy" and the actual bulb holders corrode and rust, check all the little prongs that actually touch the bulbs.


Oldred_V8S

3,714 posts

238 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Unlikely if side lights and indicators are ok?

without mastering the use of a tester it really is like a deaf man trying to cure a squeak!


As you've said the connections are very "touchy" and the actual bulb holders corrode and rust, check all the little prongs that actually touch the bulbs.
smile I like that Mike, and will use it in future.

Now probably the best approach is to treat the symptoms as two separate problems and try to diagnose them individually. There may be a common cause but trying to think of it will just delay and confuse things.

You need to get hold of the wiring diagram and a multimeter.

I suggest you strip and clean the lamp connections first and see how that goes and then come back to us with your findings.

The cause could be anywhere and I have lots of suggestions, but I don't want to bog you down with them yet, not until the easy things are eliminated.

Now depending on where you are in the US, I would be happy to pop over and take a look if we could agree expenses wink

mk1fan

10,516 posts

225 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
Simple bulb tester can show if power is going to the plug.

Similar, to show the power going along the bulb holder.

Are you sure you checked the right fuse?

Have you checked the bulbs?

The rear light clusters - plug and holder - are a very poor design. They were fine(ish) in the Escort but the TVR was never built to the same standard.

One simple fix is to remove the plug. Crimp on a narrow spade connector to each wire and connect them to the holder individually. Using a smear of dielectric grease helps too.

That said, both sides going down at at the same time suggests fuse or connection in the wiring loom rather than the two clusters failing at the same time. If power is getting to the plug then it is the cluster.

If could be a rodent also hitched a lift during the transport crossing.

BuckeyeTVR

Original Poster:

13 posts

100 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
quotequote all
Thank you all for your very detailed responses. Much appreciated!

Forgot to mention it's a V6 S2.

I honestly felt like that deaf man trying to get rid of a squeak yesterday! I struggled with finding a ground I could clamp my tester on as the cable was so short. I ended up using my jumper leads as an extension. I tested on the wire connecting to the alternator and was getting a current and repetitive light going on. I tried with the rear light and indicators, turning them on and touching all the "spades" in the plug but didn't get anything. Is that not the right way to test for current? I also tried using it on the fuse box but nothing there either. I must be doing something wrong! I do apologize for the basic questions I am asking here.

I do believe I replaced the right fuse, I do fortunately have the bible as a reference.

Paul, I live in Ohio so I'm not even sure I'd get you over here if I paid you!!

I will be following all the advice I've been given and let you know what the outcome is. I just thought I'd ask about how to use the tester to try to at least narrow it down a little.

I will try cleaning up the bulb holder today too.

Thanks again for all your help so far!
Bas

glenrobbo

35,200 posts

150 months

Wednesday 29th June 2016
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BuckeyeTVR said:
Forgot to mention it's a V6 S2.

I do believe I replaced the right fuse, I do fortunately have the bible as a reference.

Thanks again for all your help so far!
Bas
You need to be careful using the Steve Heath 'Bible' fuse diagram, it's easy to get conFUSEd wink with the one above. I have ruled off the rows on my bible diagrams to make it clearer which fuse is which:



HTH
Glen smile

BuckeyeTVR

Original Poster:

13 posts

100 months

Thursday 30th June 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Glen for the confuse scan smile those lines are a great idea, I'll do the same in mine. I was looking at the right fuse though, but having it lit up on my phone when lying down in the footwell certainly helps - especially because the fusebox is upside down in mine.

I was able to figure out my test light - I must not have earthed it correctly...

- I was not able to get a light at the plug for indicator and fog (wasn't able to test the brake but I assume it's the same there). Tested this on both sides and same result.
- I was not able to get a light at the fuse for both indicator and fog fuses.

Indicator and rear lights were fine in both spots.

When doing the test, I had ignition on, put her in reverse, turned on fog switch, lights on and indicators on.

I switched out the 10A fuses with ones that I was able to verify to make double sure it wasn't due to the fuses. The fact that fog and reverse/brake fuses didn't light up, could that be an indication of something?

As a side note, I really don't care about the fog lights - no MOT here to worry about! Just thought I should mention it.

I may go ahead and switch the original Ford plug with separate ones as was recommended - that's a very good tip.

Again, thank you all for your patience with me and your detailed answers.