2nd hand engine supplier

[anonymous-user]

Looks like my 2006 Volvo S60 2.0T engine is pretty much toast - big scrape down the cylinder wall and a partially melted piston. So I guess it's new engine time.

Can anyone recommend any decent Volvo breakers / used engine suppliers that are actually trustworthy?

thanks!

[George111]

JimSuperSix said:

used engine suppliers that are actually trustworthy?

I've got some magic beans if you're interested young man . . .

There's the "Volvo graveyard" on the A1: http://www.lakes4volvo.co.uk - never used them but they will probably have any part you want. Not as cheap as you might expect and looks a bit Wolf Creek . . . !

[stevieturbo]

JimSuperSix said:

Looks like my 2006 Volvo S60 2.0T engine is pretty much toast - big scrape down the cylinder wall and a partially melted piston. So I guess it's new engine time.

Can anyone recommend any decent Volvo breakers / used engine suppliers that are actually trustworthy?

thanks!

Presumably you've it already stripped then ?

Are parts not available or are they silly prices or something ? Sounds like an easy fix.

And dont forget that afterwards whether re-build or replacement engine, also get the thing fixed so it doesnt happen again.

[anonymous-user]

Yes it's stripped down with the faulty piston removed - one edge of the piston crown has melted, and the rings are welded into the grooves just below that melt, and the top ring was broken. There's quite a decent score mark down the rear of the cylinder, currently trying to find out whether it can be honed out or if it would need a rebore and oversized rings or pistons, in which case it's probably going to be cheaper to buy a used engine.

Not really sure what caused it, possibly a failed coil pack although the garage that found the low compression checked and it was sparking OK, but I will replace that coil pack if it gets rebuilt anyway, just in case. I've also bought an OBD2 code reader so I can check for other issues.

Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 21st July 23:19

[anonymous-user]

George111 said:

JimSuperSix said:

used engine suppliers that are actually trustworthy?

I've got some magic beans if you're interested young man . . .

There's the "Volvo graveyard" on the A1: http://www.lakes4volvo.co.uk - never used them but they will probably have any part you want. Not as cheap as you might expect and looks a bit Wolf Creek . . . !

Thanks, I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they have around.

[stevieturbo]

JimSuperSix said:

Yes it's stripped down with the faulty piston removed - one edge of the piston crown has melted, and the rings are welded into the grooves just below that melt, and the top ring was broken. There's quite a decent score mark down the rear of the cylinder, currently trying to find out whether it can be honed out or if it would need a rebore and oversized rings or pistons, in which case it's probably going to be cheaper to buy a used engine.

Not really sure what caused it, possibly a failed coil pack although the garage that found the low compression checked and it was sparking OK, but I will replace that coil pack if it gets rebuilt anyway, just in case. I've also bought an OBD2 code reader so I can check for other issues.

Edited by JimSuperSix on Thursday 21st July 23:19

To call it a faulty piston isnt really fair.

If it's a standard car, possibly dodgy injector, bad fuel ( less likely ), fuel system problem, overboost etc etc etc

If modified car, any of the above or simply bad tuning. But it certainly doesnt sound like any fault of the piston.

and it most certainly will not be the coil pack.

And if one piston is bad and all others ok ( and give them a proper inspection as 1 only would be rare ) that could point to an injector or similar.
You could simply have a new liner fitted to that bore and a replacement piston fitted, although prices of OEM pistons can range from bargain to insane.

[anonymous-user]

Yeah i mean that it's faulty now

[anonymous-user]

Lakes Autos are very helpful, the chap is seeing if they have a good replacement complete engine including injectors, coils etc.., so I think that's probably the best way forwards, should hopefully avoid any reoccurence of the problem.

[Steve_D]

JimSuperSix said:

Yeah i mean that it's faulty now

I think you need to use a different word beginning with F.

Steve

[stevieturbo]

JimSuperSix said:

Lakes Autos are very helpful, the chap is seeing if they have a good replacement complete engine including injectors, coils etc.., so I think that's probably the best way forwards, should hopefully avoid any reoccurence of the problem.

Only fixing whatever caused it will prevent any re-occurrence of the problem. Simply replacing the engine is simply replacing the engine.

2 different things.

[anonymous-user]

True, but seeing as the fault was only on piston #5 , it seems likely that it's related to the specific parts on that cylinder, so replacing the injector , coil and engine should eliminate most of those.

Open to any suggestions of what else could cause an issue just on one cylinder that I can investigate.

[stevieturbo]

Could be fuel pump, ecu, tuning, wiring etc etc.

Again, it depends on extent of damage. Have all pistons been thoroughly inspected ? Not just a glance at them

[anonymous-user]

Only piston #5 is out at the moment, currently waiting to see whether it can be re-honed in place or whether the entire engine has to come out. I can easily remove the other pistons to check those too once I know what course of action I will be taking, although from what I can see in the other bores there are no visible signs of damage and the cross-hatching is still there - bore #5 is also very shiny-silver compared to the other 4 which have a golden colour, presumably from fuel wash or similar? So I suspect it will be more cost-effective to replace the entire engine, but again until I have costs from the breakers of a replacement unit I'm not even 100% set on keeping the car - it's low value means that I might decide to scrap it instead and move on, not sure yet. 2nd hand units are about £250 on Ebay and there are loads, but I'd rather buy a known good running engine from a decent breakers than take a random Ebay punt, but if it comes down to it then for £250 I will take that punt and see what develops afterwards.

I've also just bought a code reader so I'll be able to check for codes once the engine is either fixed or replaced, so will have to take it from there and see what appears upon restarting it - it was showing a coil pack error before, so hoping that once its rebuilt and restarted I can tackle any further errors from there.

The fuel system is very simple, just a single inlet hose with a pipe, so I can't see that affecting only cylinder #5 bar an injector issue, and they will be replaced. ECU faults I hope will cause errors to be flagged again upon restarting, ECUs are easy to remove so I could send those for testing, as far as I know the engine is in a normal state of tune with no mods or remaps, inlet system all appears fine upon removal, need to inspect all hoses for splits though and will do that when rebuilding.

Basically, I will start with the most likely causes related to cylinder #5, then go from there.

Edited by anonymous-user on Sunday 24th July 11:20

[stevieturbo]

JimSuperSix said:

Only piston #5 is out at the moment, currently waiting to see whether it can be re-honed in place or whether the entire engine has to come out. I can easily remove the other pistons to check those too once I know what course of action I will be taking, although from what I can see in the other bores there are no visible signs of damage and the cross-hatching is still there - bore #5 is also very shiny-silver compared to the other 4 which have a golden colour, presumably from fuel wash or similar? So I suspect it will be more cost-effective to replace the entire engine, but again until I have costs from the breakers of a replacement unit I'm not even 100% set on keeping the car - it's low value means that I might decide to scrap it instead and move on, not sure yet. 2nd hand units are about £250 on Ebay and there are loads, but I'd rather buy a known good running engine from a decent breakers than take a random Ebay punt, but if it comes down to it then for £250 I will take that punt and see what develops afterwards.

I've also just bought a code reader so I'll be able to check for codes once the engine is either fixed or replaced, so will have to take it from there and see what appears upon restarting it - it was showing a coil pack error before, so hoping that once its rebuilt and restarted I can tackle any further errors from there.

The fuel system is very simple, just a single inlet hose with a pipe, so I can't see that affecting only cylinder #5 bar an injector issue, and they will be replaced. ECU faults I hope will cause errors to be flagged again upon restarting, ECUs are easy to remove so I could send those for testing, as far as I know the engine is in a normal state of tune with no mods or remaps, inlet system all appears fine upon removal, need to inspect all hoses for splits though and will do that when rebuilding.

Basically, I will start with the most likely causes related to cylinder #5, then go from there.

Edited by JimSuperSix on Sunday 24th July 11:20

It's quite clear you havent dealt with many engines, or seen many blow ups etc etc. And it is impossible to say for sure the condition of a piston simply by looking at it from above. And just because youcant see things only affecting 1 cylinder...doesnt mean reality is the same.
And no, Fault codes etc arent going to tell you anything useful and highly unlikely ( pretty much impossible ) there could ever be any fault codes relating to the cause of the damage.

But yes, if you are going to replace the engine, probably isnt any point wasting time taking it apart further.

[anonymous-user]

Yes well if you have a better plan then go ahead and explain, if not, perhaps don't be so condescending.

[jontysafe]

It`s apparent it`s a fuelling issue which will probably affect all cylinders but one normally goes first.

Has the car`s boost been played with?

edited to add you don`t "think" the boost has been played with. That needs checking

Edited by jontysafe on Monday 25th July 12:48

[anonymous-user]

Certainly I've not modified it at all. How would I go about checking it?

[stevieturbo]

jontysafe said:

It`s apparent it`s a fuelling issue which will probably affect all cylinders but one normally goes first.

Has the car`s boost been played with?

edited to add you don`t "think" the boost has been played with. That needs checking

Edited by jontysafe on Monday 25th July 12:48

He hasnt inspected the rest of the engine, so no way of telling and he never responded to any suggestions about whether engine was standard or tampered with etc
He's just making an assumption only 1 cylinder has been affected.

And it isnt being condescending, it stating simple facts.

[anonymous-user]

I will remove and examine the other pistons tomorrow, but you are being very condescending without offering any actual advice on what I could be checking if I decide to install a new (used) engine, although I've seen your posts before so I know you always reply this way. I've dismantled and assembled a few engines over the years, such as a Toyota Surf diesel, a few MX5 engines and a couple of Zetecs in my kit cars, but as you point out I am not an expert and I freely admit that, hence asking here for help.

The rest of the engine that I have taken apart so far seems fine as far as I can tell, the head and valves all appear normal, there were no signs of metal in the sump, there was a small amount of oil in the turbo inlet pipe but not that much, head gasket was not blown, no oil in the coolant, oil pickup seems clean although I have yet to inspect the pickup filter closely. It had a new oil filter and oil, cambelt, tensioners and waterpump about 4 months ago just after we bought it. Air filter is clean. I've not found any splits in any of the inlet or vacuum hoses so far.

Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 25th July 20:14

[anonymous-user]

stevieturbo said:

He hasnt inspected the rest of the engine, so no way of telling and he never responded to any suggestions about whether engine was standard or tampered with etc

I responded about the engine tune previously, and as said on Thursday I have stripped the rest of the engine apart from removing pistons 1 to 4, which I will do tomorrow - if there are specifics I need to check then by all means point them out, as posted above so far I've found nothing out of the ordinary with the rest of it.