Corrosion Protection

Corrosion Protection

Author
Discussion

BigRabs

Original Poster:

27 posts

102 months

Wednesday 18th January 2017
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Calling all those of you with any scientific qualifications!

I vaguely remember from GCSE level chemistry being taught that car manufacturers / some industrial applications protect metal structures by attaching a 'sacrificial' metal that is more reactive and bears the brunt of the corrosion rather than the structure itself. Would an approach like this prove any help with the Seven's well-documented corrosion issues?

shrink1061

102 posts

90 months

Thursday 19th January 2017
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No.. better powdercoating and fewer grot traps would solve the issue.

downsman

1,099 posts

155 months

Thursday 19th January 2017
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A sacrificial anode I believe it is called.

Unfortunately, the Seven construction means the alloy skin acts as the anode and is sacrificed when an electrolyte like salty water is introduced frown

framerateuk

2,730 posts

183 months

Thursday 19th January 2017
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I keep applying a new layer of ACF50 every winter and it seems to keep the corrosion at bay.

BigRabs

Original Poster:

27 posts

102 months

Friday 20th January 2017
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framerateuk said:
I keep applying a new layer of ACF50 every winter and it seems to keep the corrosion at bay.
Framerate, do you use the car all year round as well?

Eugene7

739 posts

193 months

Friday 20th January 2017
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I use Eugene all year round, and in all weathers, doing a lot of miles...
ACF50 works for me too, as did Waxoil before (thinned down to let it run into all the gaps...)

framerateuk

2,730 posts

183 months

Friday 20th January 2017
quotequote all
BigRabs said:
Framerate, do you use the car all year round as well?
I have done, but it hasn't moved since September at the moment, it was covered with salt and grit after some drives last winter, but once I wiped all the ACF50 off it it was nice and clean underneath. New layer applied and all good.

It's not like I've used it as a daily driver though, and generally I'd avoid the salt and grit, but I will take it out if it's a nice winter day. My MOT comes up in Feb so it's usually out in Jan/Feb to prep for that.

BigRabs

Original Poster:

27 posts

102 months

Friday 20th January 2017
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Thanks gents, two solid votes for some considered winter use.

BertBert

18,955 posts

210 months

Friday 20th January 2017
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I used mine for lots of miles and over two winters. Then someone else did a winter, then it fell apart!

Take care!!
Bert

GinG15

501 posts

170 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
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those car do not have the same quality of steel, nor the same quality of materials and corrosion protection like mass-produced cars. hence, they suffer from ANY use in wet, especially winter climate with salty roads etc.

the salt is still on the road, even the road is dry. you need to wait until they bring-up salt the last time, wait until the next heavy rain (which shouldnt be a big problem in UK)...than its time again for driving.

i drive my daily driver (skoda superb) for 3 years, doing nothing underneath...after 3 years every nut, bolt steel part still looks like new

i drove one time for 10miles with my seven, which had brand new shock absorbers fitted (bodies yellow galvanized) on a slightly wet winter road (with salt)...came home, washed off the salt immediately...1 week later when i came back in my garage the yellow galvanizing was already destroyed.

layers of waxoyl or whatever do cover things. dont drive the car in winter, they arent produced for that.
or open the vallet, as you can be sure that after 6years use the chassis will be shot and needs to be replaced. MOT says nothing as lots of chassis tubes are hiden under alloy panels or layers of waxoyl.