Fitting a ikea kitchen, tips advice needed

[Simpo Two]

Mojooo said:

I think all IKEA units just have a totally flush flat back.

I spose I could just cut the pipe into the unit.

Yep. A service gap, which they all boast about, just makes the cupboard less deep. And how do you get to the pipes afterwards if they are behind the backs?

[Mojooo]

Simpo Two said:

Yep. A service gap, which they all boast about, just makes the cupboard less deep. And how do you get to the pipes afterwards if they are behind the backs?

So does it weaken the carcass at all?

Also I presume if the pipe is coming sideways you have to vut into the back and sides.

[Simpo Two]

Mojooo said:

So does it weaken the carcass at all?

Also I presume if the pipe is coming sideways you have to vut into the back and sides.

A 40mm hole won't make any difference to the strength. I didn't have to run any pipes sideways between units but I guess you'd have to fit it in sections, not ideal but do-able. Or space the units forwards of course.

[tr7v8]

2/3rds through fitting a kitchen at the mo, This is around the 7th or 8th I have fitted. This one is Homebase Essentials range. These come with 60mm service void & I've increased that by using Breakfast bar work top which is 670mm. Spacing the cupboards off to 635mm to the front. The reason is I have a lot of plumbing at the back because of a downstairs loo as well.
I used compression fittings throughout with PTFE tape & had very few leaks. Flexi adapters for the mixer which are 15mm to 8mm tails.
Screws are Screwfix steels though out not sure why you'd use stainless. One buy which I did & wish I had done years ago was a cheap pipe bender for around £20 off of E Bay. In the downstairs loo I used chrome & the pipe bender & it looks miles better. An Aldi SDS+ drill & chisel set has made chasing walls & making big holes a lot easier as well.

[Neil - YVM]

Mojooo said:

Just to bump this slightly.

If you fix the units in place first is the easiest way to get around unflush walls and service pipes to just buy a bigger worktop from elsewhere?

If you opt to fit the unit away from the wall in order to allow pipes to run behind then does that not affect the strength of the connection as the units will not be connected to the wall? Also how do you cover up end cabinets if they are sticking out as a result of moving them away from the wall?

As mentioned above, what is the ideal place for pipes to be? Not running behind but right in the floor coming upwards?

I just need to sort out my gas pipe which I think will have to come up behind the built under cooker and then into the hob somehow.

IKEA are the only manufacturer that does not have a void at the back.

I would batten the wall and fix the units to that, thereby allowing a gap for pipework etc to be installed behind the units, thus also allows for walls being out of true. This would require slightly deeper work tops.

Running pipework through the units will just look like a cheap contract level install.

[Mojooo]

Neil - YVM said:

IKEA are the only manufacturer that does not have a void at the back.

I would batten the wall and fix the units to that, thereby allowing a gap for pipework etc to be installed behind the units, thus also allows for walls being out of true. This would require slightly deeper work tops.

Running pipework through the units will just look like a cheap contract level install.

good idea about the batten!

simplest ideas are always the best

in my last kitchen they did actually use battens and maybe it was for that reason

the next question is - if the wall is out of line and the worktop is straight how do youm cut the back of the worktop to be perfect - or do you just cover the gaps up with tile/sealant?

[dazwalsh]

You can plane the back of the worktop to match the curve of the wall using an electrical planer normally used on doors. If the variation is less than the thickness of an upstand or tile then its not necessary to plane them.

[chris1roll]

When we did our IKEA t about 7/8 years ago we were having the solid oak worktops.
With a batten along the wall for the units to screw to, this left room for the pipes behind.
We then fitted the worktops with the overhang we wanted, and then bought an additional length of worktop and ran it down into 3 or 4 lengths on the table saw and used it as an upstand to cover the gap behind the rear of the worktop and the wall.

[Pheo]

Not sure how'd we'd have managed to install our kitchen (DIY Kitchens) without a service void. Even then some pipes had to be moved to plinth level as it wasn't deep enough (waste pipe in particular).