Our build thread, renovation and extension
Discussion
Things are still going quite slowly, just a case of finishing off in lots of areas. All of the carpets are in upstairs apart from the front two bedrooms including the stairs which makes a huge difference to the feel of the place. A bit more final paiting, filling and sanding has been done together with some more second fix electrics.
I spent most of saturday scraping the old sealer off the worktops which took hours and last night I tried to fill more pinsholes, this time slightly more successfully by wetting the tops first, doing it when it was much cooler, using a plasticiser and acrylic bonding resin in the mix and also using a random orbital polisher and a foam pad to try and drive the mix into the holes. To be honest when I was doing it I thought I had them all covered but looking at it this morning I think I will need to do it again tonight to reduce the number that are left.
I now have a new hardener/sealer from Adseal to try which sounds like it will do the trick, they were very helpful on the phone. I may get a chance to try that over the weekend.
I spent most of saturday scraping the old sealer off the worktops which took hours and last night I tried to fill more pinsholes, this time slightly more successfully by wetting the tops first, doing it when it was much cooler, using a plasticiser and acrylic bonding resin in the mix and also using a random orbital polisher and a foam pad to try and drive the mix into the holes. To be honest when I was doing it I thought I had them all covered but looking at it this morning I think I will need to do it again tonight to reduce the number that are left.
I now have a new hardener/sealer from Adseal to try which sounds like it will do the trick, they were very helpful on the phone. I may get a chance to try that over the weekend.
Pinholes filled effectively (95%) by using less resin in the mix, allowing the screed to set overnight and grinding it off the next day.
The tops were then sealed with Adseal's Lithium Plus hybrid densifier and sealer which so far appears to be doing a good job. I think it penetrated the concrete deep enough despite it having Thompson's waterseal on it, which I tried to remove with detergents.
This is the screed layer left to set nice and thick. A top tip for anyone else is agressively pressure wash the tops before you try to fill any defects as it will expose a lot more of them!
Ground again
Lifted in to place, the fit is good, some of the edges weren't absolutely straight, obviously the sides of the moulds were a mm or two off. They also require levelling with packers as neither the ply underlay or the thickness of each piece is ever totally consistent.
It's a bit difficult to photograph them, but there they are! They're certainly cheaper than conventional worktops (about £400 all in) but they require an absolute shedload of effort, certainly when you are doing them for the first time!
The tops were then sealed with Adseal's Lithium Plus hybrid densifier and sealer which so far appears to be doing a good job. I think it penetrated the concrete deep enough despite it having Thompson's waterseal on it, which I tried to remove with detergents.
This is the screed layer left to set nice and thick. A top tip for anyone else is agressively pressure wash the tops before you try to fill any defects as it will expose a lot more of them!
Ground again
Lifted in to place, the fit is good, some of the edges weren't absolutely straight, obviously the sides of the moulds were a mm or two off. They also require levelling with packers as neither the ply underlay or the thickness of each piece is ever totally consistent.
It's a bit difficult to photograph them, but there they are! They're certainly cheaper than conventional worktops (about £400 all in) but they require an absolute shedload of effort, certainly when you are doing them for the first time!
Muncher said:
They're certainly cheaper than conventional worktops (about £400 all in) but they require an absolute shedload of effort, certainly when you are doing them for the first time!
So, knowing what you now know in terms of time, effort and likely result, would you do it again?Yes, I think so. It's a pretty unique finish, nothing like any other "normal" finish.
As with all these things, if I had to do it again it would take half the time.
General learning points are:
- The moulds held water better I though they would, aside from one slight dribble they were perfect
- Weighing all the material out very accurately into carrier bags per mixer worked well, it ensured a uniform colour and saved a lot of time. Casting them is hard enough without having to worry about that at the time.
- Properly vibrating them is difficult. The pros will use a custom made vibrating table, which would be perfect but is impractical for a one off.
- The concrete sets very strong given time and the right mix. The edges are very crisp, no worries over strength.
- Powdered pigment is much better than liquid pigment
- An angle grinder with a flap type wheel is good for smoothing out the undersides
- Use the right sealer, don't try and use driveway sealer, it's not good enough IMHO.
There's a lot if time and effort invested in making them, it's just about not cocking it up, which you could do at pretty much every single step, right down to breaking them whilst fitting them!
I would also say that if you are after a perfect, uniform finish it isn't for you, there is always some variation in terms of colour and texture even straight out of the mould, it sounds a bit stupid, but they come out more like a piece of art or sculpture than something that is perfect and uniform like corian. That said corian would have cost an extra £8k....
As with all these things, if I had to do it again it would take half the time.
General learning points are:
- The moulds held water better I though they would, aside from one slight dribble they were perfect
- Weighing all the material out very accurately into carrier bags per mixer worked well, it ensured a uniform colour and saved a lot of time. Casting them is hard enough without having to worry about that at the time.
- Properly vibrating them is difficult. The pros will use a custom made vibrating table, which would be perfect but is impractical for a one off.
- The concrete sets very strong given time and the right mix. The edges are very crisp, no worries over strength.
- Powdered pigment is much better than liquid pigment
- An angle grinder with a flap type wheel is good for smoothing out the undersides
- Use the right sealer, don't try and use driveway sealer, it's not good enough IMHO.
There's a lot if time and effort invested in making them, it's just about not cocking it up, which you could do at pretty much every single step, right down to breaking them whilst fitting them!
I would also say that if you are after a perfect, uniform finish it isn't for you, there is always some variation in terms of colour and texture even straight out of the mould, it sounds a bit stupid, but they come out more like a piece of art or sculpture than something that is perfect and uniform like corian. That said corian would have cost an extra £8k....
Yeah, Wren delivered some last week but the paint finish on the handles was rubbish, no acknowledgement from them of that. Ordered on 31 Dec last year and into July and still waiting. Apparently they told a friend of ours in the shop that it was "our fault for ordering an odd colour kitchen". Despite them having TWO full demo kitchens of that colour in their showroom.
Looks good mate, finish has come up well, I like the thickness visually as well!
One question, have you considered some type of upstand to go with them? It'll help preserve the wall better over a period of time and will also help to seal the point where worktop meets wall for water ingress.
Okay, two questions. The mid joints you did in the centre line of the sink and hob, what did you use to join them with?
One question, have you considered some type of upstand to go with them? It'll help preserve the wall better over a period of time and will also help to seal the point where worktop meets wall for water ingress.
Okay, two questions. The mid joints you did in the centre line of the sink and hob, what did you use to join them with?
ILOVEWATCHES said:
Your kitchen is wow
As me tined before the mrs is not allowed to look at this thread because all she'll say is - That is what i want.
Can i ask what is the neff remote?
Also, Can i ask why you didn't go for a gas hob and I'm guess its electric/ceramic????
Hehe, thanks.As me tined before the mrs is not allowed to look at this thread because all she'll say is - That is what i want.
Can i ask what is the neff remote?
Also, Can i ask why you didn't go for a gas hob and I'm guess its electric/ceramic????
The Neff remote is for the in ceiling extractor fan above the hob.
We've had induction hobs for years, in our view far, far better than gas. Safer and a lot more minimalist and mess free, I can cover the whole hob in oil, like I usually do when I cook anything and wipe it over in 2 seconds with a cloth and it is as good as new. I would never have gas again.
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