ABS Locks - Avocet - worth it?
Discussion
dazwalsh said:
Mattt said:
I wouldn't worry too much, your locks are more secure than 99% of houses out there.
If someone is determined to get in, they will - but you're trying to deter opportunists who won't carry these specialist tools round in their hoodies.
This, the very sight of an anti snap lock will deter the vast majority of them, plus that lock pick was in "lab" conditions. Will be tricky in the dead of night amd in a rush.If someone is determined to get in, they will - but you're trying to deter opportunists who won't carry these specialist tools round in their hoodies.
We've got avocets and that video doesn't worry me at all.
Although we do also have a very vocal dog, not one with a bone of aggression in her, but she does seem to be fitted with radar...
Great informative thread, went with this in the end, and the handle too
http://www.lockandkey.co.uk/products/Yale-Platinum...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mila-ProSecure-PAS-24-UP...
http://www.lockandkey.co.uk/products/Yale-Platinum...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mila-ProSecure-PAS-24-UP...
Went with the Mila PAS handle in the end very impressed with weight and quality, lovely outside cover to only allow key entry and enclose cylinder too.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mila-ProSecure-PAS-24-UP...
Cylinder went with the Yale Platinum 3 star, no written code on key handle anymore, dimple style key, and no readily available tool to breach it which put me off the ABS. Also couldn't find any reports of the keys suddenly failing and getting locked out. Major lock smith blog also rated this as the one to get at the moment.
https://www.lockandkey.co.uk/products/Yale-Platinu...
5 min job and feels much more secure, dread to think what the old cylinder was rated at lol
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mila-ProSecure-PAS-24-UP...
Cylinder went with the Yale Platinum 3 star, no written code on key handle anymore, dimple style key, and no readily available tool to breach it which put me off the ABS. Also couldn't find any reports of the keys suddenly failing and getting locked out. Major lock smith blog also rated this as the one to get at the moment.
https://www.lockandkey.co.uk/products/Yale-Platinu...
5 min job and feels much more secure, dread to think what the old cylinder was rated at lol
Jonesy23 said:
Re. Ultion cylinders, Brisant seem to be keeping a tight hold of their resellers hence lack of published prices/online sales. Seems a bit off to me, I'm sure they'd sell more if they were more retail friendly with their policies but maybe they're afraid of prices coming under pressure.
Anyway, pricing. The costs I've been quoted were:
Standard cylinder (all sizes) £33.50 trade. +£6 on this for retail buyers. Assume a thumb-turn or half cylinder will be a little different.
Key-alike +£6 per cylinder (trade or retail)
Extra keys £6 each (trade or retail)
3 keys included per cylinder, or per lock set if buying key-alike.
All prices quoted include VAT, exclude delivery.
I know from a year ago, but are the prices above from an Ultion cylinder? I'm being quoted almost double!Anyway, pricing. The costs I've been quoted were:
Standard cylinder (all sizes) £33.50 trade. +£6 on this for retail buyers. Assume a thumb-turn or half cylinder will be a little different.
Key-alike +£6 per cylinder (trade or retail)
Extra keys £6 each (trade or retail)
3 keys included per cylinder, or per lock set if buying key-alike.
All prices quoted include VAT, exclude delivery.
I've just replaced all our old Euro cylinders with Mul T Lock 3 Star cylinders after seeing how easy it is to snap an old one.
The door handles recommended by sixty above are excellent. Best handles I've ever seen. Thanks for the link!
House seems a lot more secure for making the change. An easy job.
The door handles recommended by sixty above are excellent. Best handles I've ever seen. Thanks for the link!
House seems a lot more secure for making the change. An easy job.
Fastpedeller said:
I know from a year ago, but are the prices above from an Ultion cylinder? I'm being quoted almost double!
Yes that was for Ultion.Can't find the order details right now, pretty sure that was from http://www.securitylocksandhandles.co.uk which is actually H Harrold & Sons Ltd in Sheffield.
Their pricing was pretty keen at the time compared to the others I asked.
Quote & order done via phone.
Fastpedeller said:
I know from a year ago, but are the prices above from an Ultion cylinder? I'm being quoted almost double!
It's about right. I pay £39 inc VAT for an Ultion with a thumb turn. I don't pay any extra for having them keyed alike, though. Extra keys are £7 inc. VAT.I think they (my supplier) sell them to public at around £58 including VAT.
I hope someone can help me please.
I have bought the Yale Platinum 3 Star lock cylinder to replace the front door lock cylinder. However, upon trying to install it, I realised that the little nobbly bits were catching on the sides as the lock cylinder slides into. I have even taken off the handles to see if this helps but unfortunately not.
What should I do? Is there a fault with the barrel?
I have bought the Yale Platinum 3 Star lock cylinder to replace the front door lock cylinder. However, upon trying to install it, I realised that the little nobbly bits were catching on the sides as the lock cylinder slides into. I have even taken off the handles to see if this helps but unfortunately not.
What should I do? Is there a fault with the barrel?
That was what I was thinking initially - I tried to fit it without removing the handles, thinking that it was the plate on the handle stopping the cylinder from pushed in, but even with the handle off, I cannot get the cyclinder far enough in for the cam to be turned into the correct place.
chichee said:
That was what I was thinking initially - I tried to fit it without removing the handles, thinking that it was the plate on the handle stopping the cylinder from pushed in, but even with the handle off, I cannot get the cyclinder far enough in for the cam to be turned into the correct place.
Hmm - I'm expecting delivery of a couple of these tomorrow! With the handle removed, is it possible to file a small crescent out of the PVC door to allow the lock to fit, and then replace the handle to cover the work?To me that looks like it's meant to stop the cylinder going too far through the gearbox; if pushed in from behind/the inside face of the door that bump ends up against the gearbox case and the bolt hole, cam etc. is in more or less the right place.
Though that makes it subject to compatibility with the gearbox thickness, and obviously can only be fitted with the handle taken off first.
Though that makes it subject to compatibility with the gearbox thickness, and obviously can only be fitted with the handle taken off first.
I've just fitted mine..... Undo handle screws and remove both handles, undo screw on side of door, turn key a little and remove old cylinder (guess you've got that far). Insert new cylinder from outside (part with "lumps" is to outside of door). Unless the hole in the UPVC is exactly the size of cylinder (unlikely) it'll go in easily. Turning key a little get cylinder in position (basically same as removal of old) Put screw in from side, check operation and tighten side screw, replace handles, job done. A little more tricky if you have a french door like mine, so to get the other cylinder in place you have to remove glass to get to lock fixing screw (or as I did) remove lock plate and drill side of mullion to get to screw. Don't do as i did and drill the hole 5mm out of line, it's a PITA to get the hole aligned again
SVS said:
I checked with the supplier and they sent a pdf file which confirms the hardened part (part with 'lumps') is on the outside of the door. (I can't work out how to download to this note - apologies). This makes sense on examining the parts, as if the lock was inserted the other way and snapped by the burglar, the cam would be exposed to the outside.
Fastpedeller said:
I was puzzled with this as well, and thought I may have been supplied with the incorrect locks ie inside/outside measurement reversed.
I checked with the supplier and they sent a pdf file which confirms the hardened part (part with 'lumps') is on the outside of the door. (I can't work out how to download to this note - apologies). This makes sense on examining the parts, as if the lock was inserted the other way and snapped by the burglar, the cam would be exposed to the outside.
I still wasn't convinced (due to 'cut' on inside), but on looking at the images on lock & key.co which also show locks with the thumbturn this convinced me (unless the thumbturn is fitted on the outside )I checked with the supplier and they sent a pdf file which confirms the hardened part (part with 'lumps') is on the outside of the door. (I can't work out how to download to this note - apologies). This makes sense on examining the parts, as if the lock was inserted the other way and snapped by the burglar, the cam would be exposed to the outside.
Folks
I have purchased a new set of barrels for all my doors.
Slight issue, the single Philips screw that holds the barrel has no purchase as it appears someone has been over zealous when installing the original lock!
Any tips on removing before I mash it up further?
I was considering this order :
1) rubber band
2) chisel tap
3) hammer in a larger flat head
4) give up
R
I have purchased a new set of barrels for all my doors.
Slight issue, the single Philips screw that holds the barrel has no purchase as it appears someone has been over zealous when installing the original lock!
Any tips on removing before I mash it up further?
I was considering this order :
1) rubber band
2) chisel tap
3) hammer in a larger flat head
4) give up
R
Carlton Banks said:
Folks
I have purchased a new set of barrels for all my doors.
Slight issue, the single Philips screw that holds the barrel has no purchase as it appears someone has been over zealous when installing the original lock!
Any tips on removing before I mash it up further?
I was considering this order :
1) rubber band
2) chisel tap
3) hammer in a larger flat head
4) give up
R
If you have a very small chisel (dare I say flat blade screwdriver)and small hammer, I'd start by trying to either a)create a slot and then turn the screw anti-clockwise or b) gently tap it with the blade on the very outside of the diameter, again anti-clockwise to loosen it. Once it's loosened by only 1/4 turn there may be enough purchase to undo with the philips. Don't know why a fitter would go mad with doing it up so tight, but clearly he has. Once it's just nipped up that's enough.I have purchased a new set of barrels for all my doors.
Slight issue, the single Philips screw that holds the barrel has no purchase as it appears someone has been over zealous when installing the original lock!
Any tips on removing before I mash it up further?
I was considering this order :
1) rubber band
2) chisel tap
3) hammer in a larger flat head
4) give up
R
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