knotweed Goddammit!!!!!
Discussion
BigTom85 said:
To be honest, for a small bit like this, I'd want to sort the problem myself, and quietly, assuming you ever want to actually sell the place in the future...
So yes a bit of ball ache, a few quid and some perseverance, but the best option imho.
Unless you know where the seller lives - that way you know where to take the clippings!
That is probably exactly what the last owner did So yes a bit of ball ache, a few quid and some perseverance, but the best option imho.
Unless you know where the seller lives - that way you know where to take the clippings!
Canes cleared and stored and injected with glyphosate. A few new slow growing shoots.
Tactic is going to be multi pronged - kill back with herbicide and a dig out when the canes die back in autumn. THe marker fluorescent die will help to identify rhizome as it will glow under UV light.....
Compost accelereant at the ready as further backup too!!!!
Tactic is going to be multi pronged - kill back with herbicide and a dig out when the canes die back in autumn. THe marker fluorescent die will help to identify rhizome as it will glow under UV light.....
Compost accelereant at the ready as further backup too!!!!
furtive said:
How will you get to the rhizome if it's under your house?
dig under if I have to and possibly need to prop. We need to dig down when we extend and will still need a root barrier membrane as we have lots of trees.Given the proximity of the eucalyptus, We will probably need 2-3m foundations or piles anyway.
eltawater said:
To be honest, that patch is tiny compared to the forest which grew alongside the red cow pub on dunmow road. We had to get the professionals in for that one!
Maybe this evil stuff has tunnelled 3/4 of a mile to surface by my hose? I swear I can hear it laughing at me......
He's eating his way through it......................
http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/sussex/hi/people_and_p...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/sussex/hi/people_and_p...
dickymint said:
He's eating his way through it......................
http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/sussex/hi/people_and_p...
Does this mean your human waste becomes controlled waste? I suppose you'd have to make an appointment at a licensed tip to take a dump.http://news.bbc.co.uk/local/sussex/hi/people_and_p...
I had heard of people eating it before so gave it a try myself. Wasn't sure the best way to do it so I just imagine it was a bit of asparagus. I boiled some young stems for about 8 minutes and then grilled some for about the same time and served with butter. Horrible! I'll stick to herbicide for getting rid of the stuff.
Looking good! I'm also fighting with it heading from common land into my garden and towards my house - it becomes an obsession! Now that I'm tuned into spotting it I can see that there's lots of knotweed in the wild over here in France and they don't seem to make such a big deal about its effects on housing.
I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
Froggy porker said:
Looking good! I'm also fighting with it heading from common land into my garden and towards my house - it becomes an obsession! Now that I'm tuned into spotting it I can see that there's lots of knotweed in the wild over here in France and they don't seem to make such a big deal about its effects on housing.
I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
Well froggy I share your enthusiasm!! I've been reading lots of research journals on knotweed and its management. To cut a long story short, there's a whole bunch of techniques that will work, and it it is best to combine herbicide and mechanical methods.I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
Carbohydrate translocation maximises after the leaves mature. prior to that point the main energy sinks are above ground i.e. stems, leaves and eventually flowers. Hence, the advice that the best time to apply a foliar spray of glyphosate is after the flowering period.
Earlier spraying will still work, but is less effective.
Once the stand stops producing new shoots, I'm going to carefully remove all the crowns by hand and chase out rhizomes away from the structure. Any new growth will be allowed attacked with glyphosate.
Hopefully the clay soils here will be my blessing and I won't have to dig down too far....
Your approach sounds like a good one, though I'm wary of digging as a break in a rhizome seems to be a local growth initiator.
One suggested eradication method that struck a chord with me when I read about it on the net was based on the observation that mowing a patch of knotweed regularly would eventually kill it off through exhaustion. What we are both doing is similar in that zapping new growth early (and of course poisoning the f
k out of it 
) prevents the rhizome from having any quality photosynthesis time to build up its energy levels.
Good luck, and die bd satan weed, die......
One suggested eradication method that struck a chord with me when I read about it on the net was based on the observation that mowing a patch of knotweed regularly would eventually kill it off through exhaustion. What we are both doing is similar in that zapping new growth early (and of course poisoning the f
k out of it ) prevents the rhizome from having any quality photosynthesis time to build up its energy levels.Good luck, and die b
d satan weed, die......Froggy porker said:
Looking good! I'm also fighting with it heading from common land into my garden and towards my house - it becomes an obsession! Now that I'm tuned into spotting it I can see that there's lots of knotweed in the wild over here in France and they don't seem to make such a big deal about its effects on housing.
I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
If knotweed is entering your land from adjoining land, you may be able to take action against the landowner. Even common land will probably have one. I would start with the Council.I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
I had a similar issue on a site and the adjoining land owner coughed up for knotweed removal, after a little pressure
stanwan said:
Froggy porker said:
Looking good! I'm also fighting with it heading from common land into my garden and towards my house - it becomes an obsession! Now that I'm tuned into spotting it I can see that there's lots of knotweed in the wild over here in France and they don't seem to make such a big deal about its effects on housing.
I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
Well froggy I share your enthusiasm!! I've been reading lots of research journals on knotweed and its management. To cut a long story short, there's a whole bunch of techniques that will work, and it it is best to combine herbicide and mechanical methods.I'm taking no chances - eradication is the answer.
Am using the "cut off near ground level and liberally paint with strong Roundup" approach. Hopefully this will do the trick - some websites talk about the rhizome going into long term, herbicide-induced dormancy so it then comes back once you've turned your back on the situation.
Carbohydrate translocation maximises after the leaves mature. prior to that point the main energy sinks are above ground i.e. stems, leaves and eventually flowers. Hence, the advice that the best time to apply a foliar spray of glyphosate is after the flowering period.
Earlier spraying will still work, but is less effective.
Once the stand stops producing new shoots, I'm going to carefully remove all the crowns by hand and chase out rhizomes away from the structure. Any new growth will be allowed attacked with glyphosate.
Hopefully the clay soils here will be my blessing and I won't have to dig down too far....
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