Which white paint that doesn't yellow post "VOC2010"screw-up
Discussion
Well I took on board all that's been said above & elsewhere & popped down to my local Johnstones for the Aqua last week. 2.5 litres was £28 mind but so far pleased with the results.
3 dazzling white doors later we shall see, I did appreciate the 5 hours drying time allowing a 2nd coat on same day and also being able to rinse brushes/trays under the tap.
3 dazzling white doors later we shall see, I did appreciate the 5 hours drying time allowing a 2nd coat on same day and also being able to rinse brushes/trays under the tap.
I have this topic bookmarked ...
I did new doors, skirting and doorframes in my hallway with the Dulux Trade pure brilliant white high gloss (with the blue lid) almost a year ago and no sign of yellowing yet. Also, it's easy to apply and the coverage is excellent (no, I don't work for them ).
The skirting in the bedroom I did before, using DIY shed (don't remember which one) gloss is another matter.
I did new doors, skirting and doorframes in my hallway with the Dulux Trade pure brilliant white high gloss (with the blue lid) almost a year ago and no sign of yellowing yet. Also, it's easy to apply and the coverage is excellent (no, I don't work for them ).
The skirting in the bedroom I did before, using DIY shed (don't remember which one) gloss is another matter.
Interesting, I painted the skirting and radiators in the house with Dulux oil-based Satin (on the belief that it was never worth buying cheap paint ) and when I painted something else nearby recently I was shocked, the white had gone light brown.
Sadly I painted all the internal doors in the house with the Dulux product so it looks like I have another task ahead of me at some stage.
So they have got it nailed with the water-based stuff now? When that first came out it was shockingly awful?
Sadly I painted all the internal doors in the house with the Dulux product so it looks like I have another task ahead of me at some stage.
So they have got it nailed with the water-based stuff now? When that first came out it was shockingly awful?
CAPP0 said:
So they have got it nailed with the water-based stuff now? When that first came out it was shockingly awful?
I found when using it recently it's certainly white, but isn't as glossy or smooth as the old "proper" paint.Certainly not the "wrapped in plastic" look you used to get.
69 coupe said:
Oh my threads revived so another update approx 17+ months on with Johnston Aqua in my dark hallway. Its still as bright and white as when put it on.
hi how is the paint looking? ive beem keeping an eye on the topic and i think its finally time to redecorate so i want something that will stay white pookey said:
69 coupe said:
Oh my threads revived so another update approx 17+ months on with Johnston Aqua in my dark hallway. Its still as bright and white as when put it on.
hi how is the paint looking? ive beem keeping an eye on the topic and i think its finally time to redecorate so i want something that will stay white Toughness...
I have a few black scuff marks from the hoover, but they wipe off, and only one chipped bit where it was whacked by a skateboard.
Johnstones Aqua, I still recommend and rate it as a non yellowing water-based paint.
Edited by 69 coupe on Wednesday 14th January 22:02
69 coupe said:
Its holding up perfectly well, I had to repaint a bit of skirting after I had to re-plaster a wall, anyhow the new coat matched in perfectly with no noticeable yellowing, fading or anything else, with the new paint applied it was a perfect match to what I painted a few years ago. So I can say its pretty much as good as the day I painted.
Toughness...
I have a few black scuff marks from the hoover, but they wipe off, and only one chipped bit where it was whacked by a skateboard.
Johnstones Aqua, I still recommend and rate it as a non yellowing water-based paint.
thanks for the reply and creating the thread. we glossed the skirtings when we first moved in and have neede to repaint them years ago. would we need to sand off the old gloss? and if so would we need an undercoat or can we just use the gloss straight away??Toughness...
I have a few black scuff marks from the hoover, but they wipe off, and only one chipped bit where it was whacked by a skateboard.
Johnstones Aqua, I still recommend and rate it as a non yellowing water-based paint.
Edited by 69 coupe on Wednesday 14th January 22:02
thanks for the info
pookey said:
69 coupe said:
Its holding up perfectly well, I had to repaint a bit of skirting after I had to re-plaster a wall, anyhow the new coat matched in perfectly with no noticeable yellowing, fading or anything else, with the new paint applied it was a perfect match to what I painted a few years ago. So I can say its pretty much as good as the day I painted.
Toughness...
I have a few black scuff marks from the hoover, but they wipe off, and only one chipped bit where it was whacked by a skateboard.
Johnstones Aqua, I still recommend and rate it as a non yellowing water-based paint.
thanks for the reply and creating the thread. we glossed the skirtings when we first moved in and have neede to repaint them years ago. would we need to sand off the old gloss? and if so would we need an undercoat or can we just use the gloss straight away??Toughness...
I have a few black scuff marks from the hoover, but they wipe off, and only one chipped bit where it was whacked by a skateboard.
Johnstones Aqua, I still recommend and rate it as a non yellowing water-based paint.
Edited by 69 coupe on Wednesday 14th January 22:02
thanks for the info
Regarding this thread, I'm amazed people still remember it, and it occasionally gets re-opened, just like you hidden in the PH woodwork, but still made you do your first post.
69 coupe said:
Personally I'd try sanding to give some key and then one or two coats of Johnstones Aqua, I did the same in this thread where i tried with Johnstons undercoat and without, I found if the paint was already white/yellowed i could not really see a difference with or without, Try it and see is my advice.
Regarding this thread, I'm amazed people still remember it, and it occasionally gets re-opened, just like you hidden in the PH woodwork, but still made you do your first post.
And to top it off, i only joined to comment on the forum i did a Google search about the white gloss and i managed to find the thread. The funny thing is i used to tease my fiancé all the time about being on here and now he's laughing cos i joined up too.Regarding this thread, I'm amazed people still remember it, and it occasionally gets re-opened, just like you hidden in the PH woodwork, but still made you do your first post.
Anyway thanks for the input we started painting the hallway yesterday so once it's all done the glossing begins...
Thread revival I know chaps!
I've recently had some work done to my house and the builder has painted a lot of woodwork in gloss white. Now the problem is that this wasn't specified and I am having it re-done in either an eggshell or satin finish.
I've read good comments about the Johnstone's acrylic eggshell & Satin paint. These are water based paints that do not yellow over time.
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
Has anyone on here used either of those paints from said manufacturer?
Also can anyone confirm that whether a key is needed for the new satin or eggshell paint to adhere to the existing gloss woodwork?
Thanks.
I've recently had some work done to my house and the builder has painted a lot of woodwork in gloss white. Now the problem is that this wasn't specified and I am having it re-done in either an eggshell or satin finish.
I've read good comments about the Johnstone's acrylic eggshell & Satin paint. These are water based paints that do not yellow over time.
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
Has anyone on here used either of those paints from said manufacturer?
Also can anyone confirm that whether a key is needed for the new satin or eggshell paint to adhere to the existing gloss woodwork?
Thanks.
All solvent based gloss will yellow eventually.
Problem is that most water based gloss is very thin and takes about three coats unless you opt for trade and get stung £40 a tin.
Even the Dulux stuff that supposedly doesn't after the VOC EU cock up a few years back.
I sell the stuff and people are still complaining.
Problem is that most water based gloss is very thin and takes about three coats unless you opt for trade and get stung £40 a tin.
Even the Dulux stuff that supposedly doesn't after the VOC EU cock up a few years back.
I sell the stuff and people are still complaining.
Best water based satin finish I've used is Dulux Quick Dry Satin. It's been on in a commercial building for quite a while and hasn't chipped or lost its whiteness (used in a not so bright passageway and also a well lit room) and out of the tin is great to use as it's definitely the closet to oil consistency that I've used. A bit of prep with a sugar soap wash and light rub with aluminium oxide p120 followed by two coats covered old yellowing gloss very well.
Thought I'd add my 2p worth as I have just painted 20 interior doors!
After much deliberation which paint to use, I opted for this stuff - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Truewhite-Satin-Pai...
I was in 2 minds as I have used Wickes paint in the past and found it to be not great, but this was good to use and gave a really good finish - limited only by my DIY abilities....! Gave the doors a good sand with wet/dry paper and cleaned with sugar soap and then 2 coats over previously yellowed oil based gloss. It did need stiring often (I stirred it after each side of door) and another great tip I did is that with water based 'gloss/satin' I lightly sprayed the doors with a garden water sprayer just before I painted and it went on much better than if the door was dry. (spray setting on fine mist).
Having said all this, I did paint the bargeboards of my garage with oil based stuff a few days later and the difference in the finish and ease of use was much better with the oil based stuff! (Apparently, the oil based stuff only yellows significantly when it's NOT exposed to natural light - hence why the outside oil based gloss I painted still looked white before I painted it. The yellowing occurs indoors in areas where not much light reaches it).
Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament!
After much deliberation which paint to use, I opted for this stuff - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Truewhite-Satin-Pai...
I was in 2 minds as I have used Wickes paint in the past and found it to be not great, but this was good to use and gave a really good finish - limited only by my DIY abilities....! Gave the doors a good sand with wet/dry paper and cleaned with sugar soap and then 2 coats over previously yellowed oil based gloss. It did need stiring often (I stirred it after each side of door) and another great tip I did is that with water based 'gloss/satin' I lightly sprayed the doors with a garden water sprayer just before I painted and it went on much better than if the door was dry. (spray setting on fine mist).
Having said all this, I did paint the bargeboards of my garage with oil based stuff a few days later and the difference in the finish and ease of use was much better with the oil based stuff! (Apparently, the oil based stuff only yellows significantly when it's NOT exposed to natural light - hence why the outside oil based gloss I painted still looked white before I painted it. The yellowing occurs indoors in areas where not much light reaches it).
Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament!
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