Which white paint that doesn't yellow post "VOC2010"screw-up
Discussion
JONSCZ said:
Thought I'd add my 2p worth as I have just painted 20 interior doors!
After much deliberation which paint to use, I opted for this stuff - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Truewhite-Satin-Pai...
I was in 2 minds as I have used Wickes paint in the past and found it to be not great, but this was good to use and gave a really good finish - limited only by my DIY abilities....! Gave the doors a good sand with wet/dry paper and cleaned with sugar soap and then 2 coats over previously yellowed oil based gloss. It did need stiring often (I stirred it after each side of door) and another great tip I did is that with water based 'gloss/satin' I lightly sprayed the doors with a garden water sprayer just before I painted and it went on much better than if the door was dry. (spray setting on fine mist).
Having said all this, I did paint the bargeboards of my garage with oil based stuff a few days later and the difference in the finish and ease of use was much better with the oil based stuff! (Apparently, the oil based stuff only yellows significantly when it's NOT exposed to natural light - hence why the outside oil based gloss I painted still looked white before I painted it. The yellowing occurs indoors in areas where not much light reaches it).
Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament!
Good to know, well the Wickes paint is £29.99 and the Johnstone's one I am thinking of buying is £45 a tin! quite a difference in price. After much deliberation which paint to use, I opted for this stuff - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Truewhite-Satin-Pai...
I was in 2 minds as I have used Wickes paint in the past and found it to be not great, but this was good to use and gave a really good finish - limited only by my DIY abilities....! Gave the doors a good sand with wet/dry paper and cleaned with sugar soap and then 2 coats over previously yellowed oil based gloss. It did need stiring often (I stirred it after each side of door) and another great tip I did is that with water based 'gloss/satin' I lightly sprayed the doors with a garden water sprayer just before I painted and it went on much better than if the door was dry. (spray setting on fine mist).
Having said all this, I did paint the bargeboards of my garage with oil based stuff a few days later and the difference in the finish and ease of use was much better with the oil based stuff! (Apparently, the oil based stuff only yellows significantly when it's NOT exposed to natural light - hence why the outside oil based gloss I painted still looked white before I painted it. The yellowing occurs indoors in areas where not much light reaches it).
Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament!
I need to work out how much I will need now
This stuff works too - whilst it's listed as an emulsion, I've used it on wood (after using the Leyland Primer) and gives a pretty tough finish that doesn't yellow.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-acrylic-eg...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-acrylic-eg...
So, just over a year ago, I wrote:
onomatopoeia said:
I have this topic bookmarked ...
I did new doors, skirting and doorframes in my hallway with the Dulux Trade pure brilliant white high gloss (with the blue lid) almost a year ago and no sign of yellowing yet.
and it's all still white rather than yellow.I did new doors, skirting and doorframes in my hallway with the Dulux Trade pure brilliant white high gloss (with the blue lid) almost a year ago and no sign of yellowing yet.
Fourteen months after using Valpar white it's now Valpar nicotine! Fortunately I had a large tin of very old dulux white, it was the old jelly like paint and when ton beautifully. Of course that is still brilliant white, thankfully I used it on the stair banisters and hope never to repainted again. As for the skirting so and door frames I am considering a grey finish.
I have leyland. It's weird (but perhaps they're all like it these days) - I had a metal rule on the window ledge for ages. When I moved it the colour difference was terrible ie you could see the ruler shape like a sillouhet (sp). But after a while it has gone and it is all even again - you can't see where it was. My conclusion is that these paints change depending on if they're in light or shade, but it is not permanent. So bright windowledge will remain white, gloomy hallway will go yellowey.
Dr Imran T said:
Thread revival I know chaps!
I've recently had some work done to my house and the builder has painted a lot of woodwork in gloss white. Now the problem is that this wasn't specified and I am having it re-done in either an eggshell or satin finish.
I've read good comments about the Johnstone's acrylic eggshell & Satin paint. These are water based paints that do not yellow over time.
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
Has anyone on here used either of those paints from said manufacturer?
Also can anyone confirm that whether a key is needed for the new satin or eggshell paint to adhere to the existing gloss woodwork?
Thanks.
You'll need to lightly sand/key any previous paint before applying new paint.I've recently had some work done to my house and the builder has painted a lot of woodwork in gloss white. Now the problem is that this wasn't specified and I am having it re-done in either an eggshell or satin finish.
I've read good comments about the Johnstone's acrylic eggshell & Satin paint. These are water based paints that do not yellow over time.
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
http://www.johnstonestrade.com/products/product-di...
Has anyone on here used either of those paints from said manufacturer?
Also can anyone confirm that whether a key is needed for the new satin or eggshell paint to adhere to the existing gloss woodwork?
Thanks.
Johnstones is excellent paint though - I use their Aqua water based gloss with good results.
V8RX7 said:
Has anyone tried the Leyland Fast Drying Gloss ?
It's on offer at Selco this month but I'm loathe to try anything "new" without recommendation these days.
I'm not able to recommend it as yet but I bought this last week to try it. Previously used their regular, solvent based gloss and it went yellow within 6 months (May have happened sooner but I only noticed it recently).It's on offer at Selco this month but I'm loathe to try anything "new" without recommendation these days.
Their fast drying gloss is water-based, which apparently doesn't go yellow - we'll see!
It's not the easiest to apply, doesn't smooth the way regular gloss does. Also shows brushstrokes a lot more and requires two coats to even it out. Very little odour from it and it does exactly what it says on the tin - dries fast. Finish after two coats is quite good though.
Edited by spaceship on Wednesday 3rd February 21:48
CoolHands said:
I have leyland. It's weird (but perhaps they're all like it these days) - I had a metal rule on the window ledge for ages. When I moved it the colour difference was terrible ie you could see the ruler shape like a sillouhet (sp). But after a while it has gone and it is all even again - you can't see where it was. My conclusion is that these paints change depending on if they're in light or shade, but it is not permanent. So bright windowledge will remain white, gloomy hallway will go yellowey.
Yes the "bad" paints require constant bleaching by the sun - your experience means it's a No from me.We were recommended by a professional decorator to use Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell for this reason.
Its £60 for a 5L can, however really pleased with it. Will not yellow.
Basically if you want to avoid yellowing, then avoid oil based paint. If the brushes can be cleaned with water it shouldn't yellow.
Just painted a door and frame using Johnstone's Aqua undercoat and Aqua gloss. Really impressed.
Had a bad experience a few years ago with a Dulux water based paint - terrible finish with brushmarks and no gloss - so much so that it put me off attempting any more painting until I could stand no more of the OH's pleas!
You do need to adopt a different technique to that of oil based paint. Basically slap it on, lay it off and leave it. You do need to work a bit quicker than you do when applying oil based paint and I was a bit concerned that my technique would fall apart when painting the door but I was fine.
As with all decorating jobs preparation is the key. I flattened the existing paintwork with sandpaper and then used the Aqua undercoat. And then glossed the next day. It is touch dry within about an hour but recommends that you don't recoat for 4 - 6 hours which I made sure I adhered to.
I bought my paint at the local Johnstone's Decorating Centre and they couldn't be more helpful. It's also quite reasonably priced costing just under £30 for two 1 litre tins.
Had a bad experience a few years ago with a Dulux water based paint - terrible finish with brushmarks and no gloss - so much so that it put me off attempting any more painting until I could stand no more of the OH's pleas!
You do need to adopt a different technique to that of oil based paint. Basically slap it on, lay it off and leave it. You do need to work a bit quicker than you do when applying oil based paint and I was a bit concerned that my technique would fall apart when painting the door but I was fine.
As with all decorating jobs preparation is the key. I flattened the existing paintwork with sandpaper and then used the Aqua undercoat. And then glossed the next day. It is touch dry within about an hour but recommends that you don't recoat for 4 - 6 hours which I made sure I adhered to.
I bought my paint at the local Johnstone's Decorating Centre and they couldn't be more helpful. It's also quite reasonably priced costing just under £30 for two 1 litre tins.
Apologies for bringing this thread up again, but for those who have used the Dulux Trade Diamond Eggshell on woodwork, how tough have you found it? I want to use this as the room doesn't get a lot of natural light, but it also needs to be hardwearing and worried it won't be as strong as oil based.
I'm about to hire a decorator to paint my kitchen cupboards, so am also very curious about the durability of Dulux Diamond PBW Eggshell.
Don't think I can risk ANY oil based white product based on the contents of this thread and everything else I've read online.
Another thing I would appreciate feedback on is using an oil based off-white e.g dulux White Cotton or White Mist. I've read reports suggesting that these won't yellow or won't show the yellowing - not sure which.
Any experiences with off-white oil based paints?
Don't think I can risk ANY oil based white product based on the contents of this thread and everything else I've read online.
Another thing I would appreciate feedback on is using an oil based off-white e.g dulux White Cotton or White Mist. I've read reports suggesting that these won't yellow or won't show the yellowing - not sure which.
Any experiences with off-white oil based paints?
fdk said:
Any experiences with off-white oil based paints?
Nope Not off-white but have a chat with Little Greene as their Traditional oil/Toms oil eggshells are both higher voc, I used the latter on a front door and the EU limit for the class is 400g/l and it is quoted as 399g/l... The fumes inspired confidence 
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff