Best Wifi enabled thermostat
Discussion
Thinking of having a nest one fitted but with other house work it's not going to be right away. We're having the house totally replastered so I'm thinking of running cabling to the place where it would go.
Currently the boiler is in the upstairs bathroom and the thermostat which is a basic one - Honeywell I think is in the hallway.
I presume I'd need extra cabling as the nest would need mains power? So would I just run some cable similar to the lighting ring back to a point where I could store it coiled under a floor in preparation for a later install?
Tia
Currently the boiler is in the upstairs bathroom and the thermostat which is a basic one - Honeywell I think is in the hallway.
I presume I'd need extra cabling as the nest would need mains power? So would I just run some cable similar to the lighting ring back to a point where I could store it coiled under a floor in preparation for a later install?
Tia
chr15b said:
I presume I'd need extra cabling as the nest would need mains power?
There are two boxes with the Nest, the thermostat itself and the 'heatlink' box. The heatlink box requires mains power and a connection to the boiler to switch it on and off, most people install this box alongside the boiler.The thermostat talks to the heatlink box wirelessly, it requires 12v for power/charging. You can use the supplied USB cable and charger if you're not wall mounting it, or there's a 12v output on the heatlink box for powering it. I used some telephone cable between my heatlink and thermostat.
kapiteinlangzaam said:
We currently use a NeFit/Worcester Wave (and very happy we are with it too), but we have decided a multi-zone set-up would be beneficial.
As far as I understand, the Honeywell EvoHome is probably the best choice for this sort of stuff, is that correct?
We need 5 zones, and I presume it uses some sort of wifi controlled valve on each rad to control the flows, the boiler running when needed but obviously only heating the rad that has called upon it....
Are the valves easy to fit DIY, or is it a job for a pro?
Thanks for any insights or alternatives.
We've just had an Evohome system with, currently, 4 zones. It was installed by our plumber so hopefully I'll get this correct!As far as I understand, the Honeywell EvoHome is probably the best choice for this sort of stuff, is that correct?
We need 5 zones, and I presume it uses some sort of wifi controlled valve on each rad to control the flows, the boiler running when needed but obviously only heating the rad that has called upon it....
Are the valves easy to fit DIY, or is it a job for a pro?
Thanks for any insights or alternatives.
The Evohome system absolutely controls on a per zone basis which in our little house is bathroom, living room, bedroom one and bedroom two. Equally, one could tie individual TRVs together into a single zone like "upstairs" or "East Wing" or whatever.
The TRVs themselves are NOT WiFi connected. The touch screen controller is and that communicates over some radio protocol. I highlight that distinction as radio signals may reach where WiFi doesn't. Or vice versa.
Although the TRVs are DIY fit I had a plumber in to install the controller and its link to the boiler anyway so also installed brand new valves in the existing radiators - the TRVs were designed to work with a particular Honeywell valve and whilst they work with other valves I decided that for £15ish per radiator it was worth purchasing new (which come with traditional TRVs) in case the originals were seized but also so I can remove the system easily if we sell up.
Oh and you can control the system with an iPhone app and it also interfaces with IFTTT as well.
Hope that helps
Cheers, Steve.
I looked at the Evohome - the feedback I got from central heating people was that it wasn't worth the hassle and it cost too much.
Actually I wanted the control more than anything. In the end I didn't bother because I have someone in my household who would struggle to work it.
Its probably not that expensive if you are doing a new system anyway as you will probably spend half the amount of buy a thermostat and TRV anyway.
Actually I wanted the control more than anything. In the end I didn't bother because I have someone in my household who would struggle to work it.
Its probably not that expensive if you are doing a new system anyway as you will probably spend half the amount of buy a thermostat and TRV anyway.
Andehh said:
Can anyone recommend a good 4 channel (3 required now, 1 more when kitchen done next year) WiFi thermostat?
Needed for hot water, central heating and 1 zone underfloor heating, with extra zone added in later.
Thanks
Drayton Wish 4 pack, installed one in a clients house before xmas. Needed for hot water, central heating and 1 zone underfloor heating, with extra zone added in later.
Thanks
Full internet control too, Programmer is 4 ch and can be selected to talk to 3 wireless stats and the other channel for hot water. Obviously 4 wireless stats can be used as well
Tado just realised a new version of the app. It now has boost capability for zones, either by timer, until the next scheduled period change, or completely manual, for both hot water and heating by zone. Great feature. They've also brought relative humidity is also now displayed by the app as measured by the room thermostat.
Pheo said:
Tado just realised a new version of the app. It now has boost capability for zones, either by timer, until the next scheduled period change, or completely manual, for both hot water and heating by zone. Great feature. They've also brought relative humidity is also now displayed by the app as measured by the room thermostat.
Closely followed by a warning NOT to download/update it if you are on IOS7 until they fix it.Pheo said:
Tado just realised a new version of the app. It now has boost capability for zones, either by timer, until the next scheduled period change, or completely manual, for both hot water and heating by zone. Great feature. They've also brought relative humidity is also now displayed by the app as measured by the room thermostat.
It's a great feature and can see myself using it a lot on an hour timer just to boast the temperature. I've had tado a year and so happy with it that I have renewed it Has anybody installed their own Nest that'd be able to give me a bit of advice?
I've recently moved house and am looking to replace the old programmer and thermostat with a 3rd generation Nest.
I work odd hours and am often away from home for a few days, so the ability to remotely manage my heating and water is my motive.
Currently the water and heating are controlled by a CentaurPlus C27:
The wiring is as below and the installer was kind enough to note which wire does what:
So, am I right in my understanding that I simply wire the Nest Heat Link as follows?
I have assumed that I have to put a bridge from the live wire to the 2 common connections on the Nest...?
There is an ancient thermostat in the hallway that is connected as follows:
It appears that, when the programmer is calling for heating, the red wire (point 1) is live. If the temperature is lower than desired, the yellow wire (point 3) becomes live and the boiler fires. If the temperature is higher than desired, the blue wire (point 2) becomes live and the boiler stays off.
Is it be possible, therefore, to remove this redundant thermostat and simply connect the red and yellow wires together?
Many questions, thanks in advance.
I've recently moved house and am looking to replace the old programmer and thermostat with a 3rd generation Nest.
I work odd hours and am often away from home for a few days, so the ability to remotely manage my heating and water is my motive.
Currently the water and heating are controlled by a CentaurPlus C27:
The wiring is as below and the installer was kind enough to note which wire does what:
So, am I right in my understanding that I simply wire the Nest Heat Link as follows?
I have assumed that I have to put a bridge from the live wire to the 2 common connections on the Nest...?
There is an ancient thermostat in the hallway that is connected as follows:
It appears that, when the programmer is calling for heating, the red wire (point 1) is live. If the temperature is lower than desired, the yellow wire (point 3) becomes live and the boiler fires. If the temperature is higher than desired, the blue wire (point 2) becomes live and the boiler stays off.
Is it be possible, therefore, to remove this redundant thermostat and simply connect the red and yellow wires together?
Many questions, thanks in advance.
whoami said:
How has it been?
I can't complain, I can set the schedule using mobile app or web browser, I can turn it on and off using my phone and it alerts me when I leave the house if I've left it on and likewise when I'm coming home, asking me if I want to turn it on and telling me the temperature.It's probably not got the bells and whistles of others available but it does everything we need it to do so we've been more than happy.
I just want to change this;
for this;
I don't have any real need because I never touch the thermostat - it's just so pretty.
clarkmagpie said:
We have underfloor heating upstairs and downstairs.
What's the best system to go with for the 6 different thermostats in these rooms?
I've got 11 room thermostats with my UFH - Heatmiser Neo - which are all WiFi enabled. They connect to a central unit (Neo Hub) which plugs into the router and then I can control all 11 from my iPhone.What's the best system to go with for the 6 different thermostats in these rooms?
That's probably the most cost effective way for a UFH system with multiple stats. 6 Nests could be quite costly - and I'm not even sure you can have multiple Nests in a house?
Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 1st February 16:20
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