Best Wifi enabled thermostat

Best Wifi enabled thermostat

Author
Discussion

Trustmeimadoctor

12,604 posts

155 months

Monday 21st March 2016
quotequote all
My tado has stopped connecting to the met was fine till midnight ish all 3 lights on solid on the bridge but the app says no remote access

Any ideas?

teabelly

164 posts

231 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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Trustmeimadoctor said:
My tado has stopped connecting to the met was fine till midnight ish all 3 lights on solid on the bridge but the app says no remote access

Any ideas?
Have you updated the app? Tado just released an updated version so it might be not working due to that. I usually try quitting the app and starting it again if it goes on the fritz.


Also check the tado is visible from the normal web interface.

Trustmeimadoctor

12,604 posts

155 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
quotequote all
Not on web interface either will call them tonight even opened all ports just to make sure but nada

Max M4X WW

4,799 posts

182 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
quotequote all
Emeye said:
Max M4X WW said:
Emeye said:
Max M4X WW said:
How do you check/test through the app? I can't see anything. We both have accounts on our phones.
Just open the app - it will say Home or Away. So if you are both away from the house it should have kicked into Away. If it has failed you can always manually set it here.
Ah yes, that's what I have been looking at. Not working yet, but we will see.
Make sure your location option is turned on in the settings menu (I assume you are using an iphone? Go into settings then find the nest app) - location option to always.
No, Android. But it worked earlier, was on AUTO AWAY and as I got near to the house it went to my default temp.

Trustmeimadoctor

12,604 posts

155 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
quotequote all
teabelly said:
Trustmeimadoctor said:
My tado has stopped connecting to the met was fine till midnight ish all 3 lights on solid on the bridge but the app says no remote access

Any ideas?
Have you updated the app? Tado just released an updated version so it might be not working due to that. I usually try quitting the app and starting it again if it goes on the fritz.


Also check the tado is visible from the normal web interface.
Turns out it was the temperature sensor had run out of juice! Simple but no warning before it cut out or indication on website

teabelly

164 posts

231 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
quotequote all
It emails you when the batteries are low. It gives you roughly a month to change them. I think it also displays a battery symbol on the unit so it's a bit odd if the batteries have packed up suddenly.

I put lithium ones in mine to see if they would last longer as I didn't think 8 months was very good with the supplied ones.

maturin23

586 posts

222 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
I've done plenty of searching and reading (and just got off the phone with Tado customer service) but I'm still struggling to come up with best/easiest solution to replace our current central heating controls.

I'm hoping someone could suggest the best set-up given our slightly unusual set up.


Current set up

Worcester Bosch 30CDI (in utility room) and Megaflow-style Hot Water tank (in adjacent boot room)
Salus EP200 twin-channel controller (24/7/365 Central heating and Hot Water on/off)
Hard-wired Salus Underfloor electric heating controller/thermostat (this is entirely independent to the Central Heating)
Radiators with simple manual thermostatic valves

The radiators are in two zones (Zone 1 - ground floor, Zone 2 - floors 1 and 2).
Temperature control is done via two portable Salus thermostats that connect to two Salus receiver unit controlling valves on the central heating piping.
These receivers/valves are in the boot room next to the hot water tank - not in the utility room by the boiler.

This works reasonably well (although the CH controller resets itself every week or so, is crap to programme so I want rid!) but there is no ability to control via smartphone app. I'd also like to be able to integrate the underfloor heating in the control system. I'm happy with a simple two-zone controls over the radiators but it would be nice to be able to add single room controls in future (ie my wife's therapy room).

I was told by the Tado chap their system could only control the hot water and one zone wirelessly and the second zone and heated floor would need to be 'hardwired' - I don't quite understand what that entails. I'd like to avoid additional wiring if at all possible.

Can anyone suggest what system might fit the bill?

smn159

12,672 posts

217 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
maturin23 said:
I've done plenty of searching and reading (and just got off the phone with Tado customer service) but I'm still struggling to come up with best/easiest solution to replace our current central heating controls.

I'm hoping someone could suggest the best set-up given our slightly unusual set up.


Current set up

Worcester Bosch 30CDI (in utility room) and Megaflow-style Hot Water tank (in adjacent boot room)
Salus EP200 twin-channel controller (24/7/365 Central heating and Hot Water on/off)
Hard-wired Salus Underfloor electric heating controller/thermostat (this is entirely independent to the Central Heating)
Radiators with simple manual thermostatic valves

The radiators are in two zones (Zone 1 - ground floor, Zone 2 - floors 1 and 2).
Temperature control is done via two portable Salus thermostats that connect to two Salus receiver unit controlling valves on the central heating piping.
These receivers/valves are in the boot room next to the hot water tank - not in the utility room by the boiler.

This works reasonably well (although the CH controller resets itself every week or so, is crap to programme so I want rid!) but there is no ability to control via smartphone app. I'd also like to be able to integrate the underfloor heating in the control system. I'm happy with a simple two-zone controls over the radiators but it would be nice to be able to add single room controls in future (ie my wife's therapy room).

I was told by the Tado chap their system could only control the hot water and one zone wirelessly and the second zone and heated floor would need to be 'hardwired' - I don't quite understand what that entails. I'd like to avoid additional wiring if at all possible.

Can anyone suggest what system might fit the bill?
Not sure this helps, but I have an underfloor system in the kitchen that is controlled separately to the main heating. I have two Tado zones (underfllor and rest of the house), both of which are controlled wirelessly by a Tado and and extension unit. I have a separate hardwired controller which does the hot water, and I did ask Tado what I would need in order to control the hot water wirelessly. They told me that this was 'possible', but that I'd have to consult an electrician and would need some more wiring (I assume from the Tado extension unit to the hot water control wiring).

Don't quite understand why Tado couldn't tell me how to wire it, and I haven't had any time to investigate further.

maturin23

586 posts

222 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
I don't think there needs to be too much complexity for hot water heating so I could just use an old school timer, but it just seems a little lame to have a sophisticated system that can only control two things wirelessly.

Would I need to run a cable from the wall-mounted heated-floor controller in the kitchen to the central heating controller next to the boiler?

Is there nothing out there that can control two zone CH, one heated floor and hot water without running extra wires?
Thinking about it it would be awesome to control the tank immersion heater - we have a massive bath that nearly drains the tank so being able to put the immersion on a timer (currently just a fused appliance switch that always gets left on by mistake) would be superb.


essayer

9,077 posts

194 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
maturin23 said:
I've done plenty of searching and reading (and just got off the phone with Tado customer service) but I'm still struggling to come up with best/easiest solution to replace our current central heating controls.

I'm hoping someone could suggest the best set-up given our slightly unusual set up.


Current set up

Worcester Bosch 30CDI (in utility room) and Megaflow-style Hot Water tank (in adjacent boot room)
Salus EP200 twin-channel controller (24/7/365 Central heating and Hot Water on/off)
Hard-wired Salus Underfloor electric heating controller/thermostat (this is entirely independent to the Central Heating)
Radiators with simple manual thermostatic valves

The radiators are in two zones (Zone 1 - ground floor, Zone 2 - floors 1 and 2).
Temperature control is done via two portable Salus thermostats that connect to two Salus receiver unit controlling valves on the central heating piping.
These receivers/valves are in the boot room next to the hot water tank - not in the utility room by the boiler.

This works reasonably well (although the CH controller resets itself every week or so, is crap to programme so I want rid!) but there is no ability to control via smartphone app. I'd also like to be able to integrate the underfloor heating in the control system. I'm happy with a simple two-zone controls over the radiators but it would be nice to be able to add single room controls in future (ie my wife's therapy room).

I was told by the Tado chap their system could only control the hot water and one zone wirelessly and the second zone and heated floor would need to be 'hardwired' - I don't quite understand what that entails. I'd like to avoid additional wiring if at all possible.

Can anyone suggest what system might fit the bill?
Evohome.

You could do zone 1/2 as separate valve controlled floors and have one temperature control per floor, plus control hot water from the unit.

I think you can run the electric UFH the same way, just with the relay controlling the heating instead of the zone valve. Speak to theevohomeshop to be sure.

To expand you could lock open the zone 1/2 valves and control all the radiators with electronic TRV valves, subject to it getting pricey (£50 per rad) and a maximum of 12 heating zones per controller. If you have a large house you should do a radio survey before committing.

But this will give you a system you can control from anywhere and a nice touchscreen controller for the house. Minimal wiring changes required as it's all radio.






Pheo

3,341 posts

202 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
There are a limited number of inputs / outputs on most control systems. That's why you might be struggling. Tado are aiming for the 80+% of customers who have a single or dual zone CH, and hot water heating setup. It makes business sense. Have you looked at Evohome from Honeywell? That's a more complicated system which is more like a kit of parts. Otherwise you are essentially adding more Tado units together so you are buying multiple thermostats.

Re the hot water control, if it's immersion, the simplest thing to do would be to add a hot water control timer - you can get these which fit into a standard pattress box. I have one which times 1hr/2hr/4hr. I installed it next to the Unfused Connection Unit you mention. I've seen mechanical versions which do 24 hours on a rotating basis too. Simple but could be effective for you.

As an aside, Not sure it's been mentioned here but I see Tado now does presence awareness for the hot water circuit if you desire.

maturin23

586 posts

222 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
Thanks chaps - will check out Evohome.

Our Hot Water is mainly heated by the gas boiler but we've also got an electric immersion heater - just be nice to have control over everything.

Accelebrate

5,252 posts

215 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
Looking for some advice on thermostat wiring. I wired a Nest into my old property, but that was a V2 connected to a combi boiler replacing a simple 2 wire thermostat. New place has a Y-plan system - condensing boiler, water tanks and an old mechanical timer. I've ordered a V3 Nest with hot water control through the £129 NPower offer.

Wiring diagram for the existing timer:



Here's the wiring inside the timer:



What's the loop between 1 and 6 doing? Why is nothing connected to 3, how is the heating actually switched?

essayer

9,077 posts

194 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
The link from 6 to 1 provides power into the DHW switching circuit, which provides 240v on port 4 when manually on or timed on; otherwise port 5 has 240v.

This presumably drives a mid position valve?

Accelebrate

5,252 posts

215 months

Tuesday 5th April 2016
quotequote all
Got it, thanks. With that and the help of the very useful post a few pages back I think I've figured it out. Yes, there's a Honeywell three way value near to the timer in the airing cupboard.

Next challenge will be tracing the thermostat wire into one of the two junction boxes in the airing cupboard, rewiring it so the circuit it creates is permanently on (leaving the Nest Heatlink to switch) and then repurpose the thermostat wires to feed 12v to the Nest Thermostat.

Accelebrate

5,252 posts

215 months

Wednesday 6th April 2016
quotequote all
Seems to have worked as expected. I appear to still have heating and hot water so that's a good start! hehe

Old timer:



I drilled out a cable slot in the back of the Heatlink (there's one vaguely marked). Seemed the neatest/easiest way to cover the hole in the airing cupboard:



Heatlink all wired up:



Live is looped to terminals 3 and 5. Heating control linked to 2. Hot water to 4 and 6. The surface mount cable is carrying 12v to the old thermostat wires joined up in the adjacent junction box. I had to move a couple of wires around in there to take the thermostat out of the heating circuit.

All back together:



Old thermostat:



Nest in the same location:



We're redecorating the hallway soon so I'll be able to ditch the plastic surround then.

dickymint

24,348 posts

258 months

ADogg

1,349 posts

214 months

Monday 2nd May 2016
quotequote all
Hello

I'm looking into getting one of these for our house/business.

We have a four storey B&B/house, and what we would like to do is to control the heating and water, but, also (if possible) have it "zoned" so if no one is in on a floor/in a certain room we can turn off the radiator with the system.

Is this possible? If so, with what system?

Thanks¬

FurtiveFreddy

8,577 posts

237 months

Monday 2nd May 2016
quotequote all
ADogg said:
Hello

I'm looking into getting one of these for our house/business.

We have a four storey B&B/house, and what we would like to do is to control the heating and water, but, also (if possible) have it "zoned" so if no one is in on a floor/in a certain room we can turn off the radiator with the system.

Is this possible? If so, with what system?

Thanks¬
Honeywell Evohome

5678

6,146 posts

227 months

Monday 2nd May 2016
quotequote all
Trustmeimadoctor said:
Turns out it was the temperature sensor had run out of juice! Simple but no warning before it cut out or indication on website
I had this recently too. They have had issues with their emails going out.

Looking forward to tado bringing out their smart radiator valves too. I'll have some of them.