Best Wifi enabled thermostat
Discussion
You mount the controller box where the wires from your boiler and CH/HW pumps are. For me that's the airing cupboard
The Tado instructions state put it where your thermostat is bit that means no hot water or running another cable.
Still can't find a pin out. Looks like I'm going to have to get my plumber to not install it and do it myself once my internet comes online - the online wizard won't let me progress past the gateway stage.
The Tado instructions state put it where your thermostat is bit that means no hot water or running another cable.
Still can't find a pin out. Looks like I'm going to have to get my plumber to not install it and do it myself once my internet comes online - the online wizard won't let me progress past the gateway stage.
Pheo said:
You mount the controller box where the wires from your boiler and CH/HW pumps are. For me that's the airing cupboard
The Tado instructions state put it where your thermostat is bit that means no hot water or running another cable.
Still can't find a pin out. Looks like I'm going to have to get my plumber to not install it and do it myself once my internet comes online - the online wizard won't let me progress past the gateway stage.
In my case ..... if you have a single separate controller for hot water/CH (controlling your boiler) then the TADO box replaces that. You can then put the wireless thermostat where you like but the kit does contain a couple of pieces that allow you "bypass" the old thermostat wiring and then place the wireless on in its place. It even has a cap for the hole in the wall.The Tado instructions state put it where your thermostat is bit that means no hot water or running another cable.
Still can't find a pin out. Looks like I'm going to have to get my plumber to not install it and do it myself once my internet comes online - the online wizard won't let me progress past the gateway stage.
Note mine controls both hot water and CH.
I'd be interested to hear of peoples experiences of multi zone control.
I'm planning on having two underfloor heating zones and three radiator zones, so a total of five areas each controlled by a separate thermostat.
Ideally what I'd like to achieve is a system where a zone calls for heat, which activates the boiler and appropriate valves so that hot water flows to only the area where heat is required. Once the desired temperature has been reached, I'd like the valves/boiler to switch off.
I'm planning on having two underfloor heating zones and three radiator zones, so a total of five areas each controlled by a separate thermostat.
Ideally what I'd like to achieve is a system where a zone calls for heat, which activates the boiler and appropriate valves so that hot water flows to only the area where heat is required. Once the desired temperature has been reached, I'd like the valves/boiler to switch off.
nick s said:
Got my Nest through the post the other day. Didn't realise it has to be plugged into mains power? Need to send it back now! Anyone else find this ridiculous?
I thought the nest was mains chargable? Rather than mains plugged in.They sell a stand for it anyway. Put it somewhere else?
For reference:
H in a circle = Heating On
H without circle = heating off
W in a circle = hot water on
W without circle = hot water off
L=Live & N=Neutral
Lets just hope it holds voltage on the On lines so that it keeps my Y Plan valve in the right place... Plumber didn't install it in the end so I'll do it Monday when the internets is installed.
H in a circle = Heating On
H without circle = heating off
W in a circle = hot water on
W without circle = hot water off
L=Live & N=Neutral
Lets just hope it holds voltage on the On lines so that it keeps my Y Plan valve in the right place... Plumber didn't install it in the end so I'll do it Monday when the internets is installed.
Hi all,
12 years with our current (awful!) Glow Worm boiler and it needs changing. I've been recommended an Ideal and a Worcester Bosch, I want to go with the latter which is a Greenstar 29 CDi.
We have never had a programmer before, just the 7 day unit on the boiler and TRV's. I fancy a room thermostat with wifi (I think) as I hope it will save us cash and will give me something to mess around with!
What will be compatible with the boiler? Do I need anything extra? (The Bosch one above looks smart!)
Thanks in advance!
12 years with our current (awful!) Glow Worm boiler and it needs changing. I've been recommended an Ideal and a Worcester Bosch, I want to go with the latter which is a Greenstar 29 CDi.
We have never had a programmer before, just the 7 day unit on the boiler and TRV's. I fancy a room thermostat with wifi (I think) as I hope it will save us cash and will give me something to mess around with!
What will be compatible with the boiler? Do I need anything extra? (The Bosch one above looks smart!)
Thanks in advance!
Pheo said:
For reference:
H in a circle = Heating On
H without circle = heating off
W in a circle = hot water on
W without circle = hot water off
L=Live & N=Neutral
Lets just hope it holds voltage on the On lines so that it keeps my Y Plan valve in the right place... Plumber didn't install it in the end so I'll do it Monday when the internets is installed.
humm well I must have done soothing wrong - the hot water comes on in heating mode! H in a circle = Heating On
H without circle = heating off
W in a circle = hot water on
W without circle = hot water off
L=Live & N=Neutral
Lets just hope it holds voltage on the On lines so that it keeps my Y Plan valve in the right place... Plumber didn't install it in the end so I'll do it Monday when the internets is installed.
Right, think I've fixed it. If you have a Honeywell Y Plan, you must bridge terminals 4&5 on the wiring loom / block. This is to bypass the previous room stat. Otherwise, the existing room stat will hold the circuit open until it too goes high, following a temperature drop past the set point (obviously we don't want this!).
Still need to verify it turns on the hot water OK, but this was sortof working before so I'm hoping it was just an issue with not being able to hold the CH valve open to the CH Circuit.
This diagram was super useful: http://octaveblue.co.uk/c_heating/ specifically the Y Plan section!
Still need to verify it turns on the hot water OK, but this was sortof working before so I'm hoping it was just an issue with not being able to hold the CH valve open to the CH Circuit.
This diagram was super useful: http://octaveblue.co.uk/c_heating/ specifically the Y Plan section!
Max M4X WW said:
Hi all,
12 years with our current (awful!) Glow Worm boiler and it needs changing. I've been recommended an Ideal and a Worcester Bosch, I want to go with the latter which is a Greenstar 29 CDi.
We have never had a programmer before, just the 7 day unit on the boiler and TRV's. I fancy a room thermostat with wifi (I think) as I hope it will save us cash and will give me something to mess around with!
What will be compatible with the boiler? Do I need anything extra? (The Bosch one above looks smart!)
Thanks in advance!
I have that boiler and the Tado kit. Works perfectly, both are great bits of kit.12 years with our current (awful!) Glow Worm boiler and it needs changing. I've been recommended an Ideal and a Worcester Bosch, I want to go with the latter which is a Greenstar 29 CDi.
We have never had a programmer before, just the 7 day unit on the boiler and TRV's. I fancy a room thermostat with wifi (I think) as I hope it will save us cash and will give me something to mess around with!
What will be compatible with the boiler? Do I need anything extra? (The Bosch one above looks smart!)
Thanks in advance!
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