Best Wifi enabled thermostat
Discussion
the pump needs to be able to supply the water for all the rads when they are needing the most energy/water
below in theory i need 284lph max to have my rads giving out their max possible heat for the flow temp im using
as you can see on the living room my rad at full output uses 41lph to output 943w i only really need 563w so i restrict it to 24lph so i get the output i need
then the weather comp will alter the flow temp to what every it needs to maintain 20c when the outside is at whatever temp it is
like ive said i am not an expert so i could be totally wrong
below in theory i need 284lph max to have my rads giving out their max possible heat for the flow temp im using
as you can see on the living room my rad at full output uses 41lph to output 943w i only really need 563w so i restrict it to 24lph so i get the output i need
then the weather comp will alter the flow temp to what every it needs to maintain 20c when the outside is at whatever temp it is
like ive said i am not an expert so i could be totally wrong
Edited by Trustmeimadoctor on Wednesday 25th January 10:15
Recently installed a Tado system, with their TRVs on most of my rads (they're spenny, so just bought 8 for now). Any tips for optimising usage/output?
For december i tested zoning off unused rooms, and only heating desired rooms when i'm going to use them. Now i'm trialing 'setback' temps in the unused rooms. I think the latter is better for actually achieving target temps in the desired rooms (unsurprising), but i'm not clear how that affects usage. it's a detached solid wall house, pretty cold.
Any way i can measure flow temp from boiler? oldish potterton system boiler with a very rudimentary temperature knob, no real idea what it's set to. i have noticed the house (again, unsurprisingly) is easier to get to comfortable temperatures after a boost to that knob in the last few cold spells.
For december i tested zoning off unused rooms, and only heating desired rooms when i'm going to use them. Now i'm trialing 'setback' temps in the unused rooms. I think the latter is better for actually achieving target temps in the desired rooms (unsurprising), but i'm not clear how that affects usage. it's a detached solid wall house, pretty cold.
Any way i can measure flow temp from boiler? oldish potterton system boiler with a very rudimentary temperature knob, no real idea what it's set to. i have noticed the house (again, unsurprisingly) is easier to get to comfortable temperatures after a boost to that knob in the last few cold spells.
Trustmeimadoctor said:
no you will need something to measure them
I just bought a pair of these to put on the flow/return pipes for the boiler. Easy to tell at a glance what the temp is.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314284754809
KTF said:
Trustmeimadoctor said:
no you will need something to measure them
I just bought a pair of these to put on the flow/return pipes for the boiler. Easy to tell at a glance what the temp is.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314284754809
KTF said:
Trustmeimadoctor said:
no you will need something to measure them
I just bought a pair of these to put on the flow/return pipes for the boiler. Easy to tell at a glance what the temp is.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314284754809
We've had a Nest running our oil boiler for a few years now.
This morning I learnt that you cannot schedule hot water to come on at anything other on the hour or half past.
The website only gives you options for :00 and :30. The Nest app is worse - it lets you pick the time you want and just ignores it. So pick for hot water at 05:45, your choice is ignored and 06:00 is used instead.
You also can't have it on for anything less than 30 minutes. This has probably been covered in the past few hundred pages, but what utter rubbish.
This morning I learnt that you cannot schedule hot water to come on at anything other on the hour or half past.
The website only gives you options for :00 and :30. The Nest app is worse - it lets you pick the time you want and just ignores it. So pick for hot water at 05:45, your choice is ignored and 06:00 is used instead.
You also can't have it on for anything less than 30 minutes. This has probably been covered in the past few hundred pages, but what utter rubbish.
PartOfTheProblem said:
Does anyone know if it's possible to get the Tado wireless to run Opentherm? I didn't realise it wasn't standard on the wireless version, but it's now fitted so not possible to return it...
I believe you would need the European extension kit (you can buy it from the Tado Professional UK store) as that has the digital connections. The normal UK retail version does not.Example: https://uk.installers-shop.tado.com/products/wirel...
Has anyone here experience of the Glow Worm Migo/Vaillant vSMART smart stats?
I would like to be able to get modulation working and Glow Worm uses e-Bus. I currently have a Tado smart stat so could either buy the Tado extension kit and swap out the current programmer which should enable the functionality or sell the Tado and replace it with Glow Worm everything instead.
Playing with the Glow Worm app it looks very similar to Tado barring the geo-location aspect but I cant find any reviews of it online compared to the many Tado, Nest, Hive ones.
I realise this would tie me in to Glow Worm but in theory it should just work so wondered if anyone here has actually used them rather than third party variants?
I would like to be able to get modulation working and Glow Worm uses e-Bus. I currently have a Tado smart stat so could either buy the Tado extension kit and swap out the current programmer which should enable the functionality or sell the Tado and replace it with Glow Worm everything instead.
Playing with the Glow Worm app it looks very similar to Tado barring the geo-location aspect but I cant find any reviews of it online compared to the many Tado, Nest, Hive ones.
I realise this would tie me in to Glow Worm but in theory it should just work so wondered if anyone here has actually used them rather than third party variants?
Evening all,
Could I please have some recommendations on a suitable system for our house project.
Specifics are
4 zones, comprising
1 x kitchen and utility room via UFH
1 x entrance hall via 7TH
1 x lounge via thermaskirt
1 x first floor as a whole
Wireless and smart app compatible, preferably Alexa as our preferred platform.
Can be wired for power if needs be
Main boiler is in the downstairs utility near the UFH manifolds with a hot water tank in our upstairs ensuite.
Visual aesthetics are important, as is budget!
Thanks all
Could I please have some recommendations on a suitable system for our house project.
Specifics are
4 zones, comprising
1 x kitchen and utility room via UFH
1 x entrance hall via 7TH
1 x lounge via thermaskirt
1 x first floor as a whole
Wireless and smart app compatible, preferably Alexa as our preferred platform.
Can be wired for power if needs be
Main boiler is in the downstairs utility near the UFH manifolds with a hot water tank in our upstairs ensuite.
Visual aesthetics are important, as is budget!
Thanks all
Tado continues to annoy me with its sluggish responses and settings only support can see or change so I have actually bought a Migo and smart wiring centre to replace it and connect it to the eBus on the boiler.
That should give full flow control, etc. from the manufacturer controls. £130 for the Migo and £35 for the wiring centre.
Just need to install it all now and see if it makes a difference.
That should give full flow control, etc. from the manufacturer controls. £130 for the Migo and £35 for the wiring centre.
Just need to install it all now and see if it makes a difference.
KTF said:
Tado continues to annoy me with its sluggish responses and settings only support can see or change so I have actually bought a Migo and smart wiring centre to replace it and connect it to the eBus on the boiler.
That should give full flow control, etc. from the manufacturer controls. £130 for the Migo and £35 for the wiring centre.
Just need to install it all now and see if it makes a difference.
??That should give full flow control, etc. from the manufacturer controls. £130 for the Migo and £35 for the wiring centre.
Just need to install it all now and see if it makes a difference.
I have my ĢW combi connected to Tado via Ebus. Seems to be doing everything it should.
I have a heat only boiler so the tado can’t do the modulation, etc.
At the moment it’s a fancy on/off switch that only does anything on 3 wiggles.
1 and 2 wiggles are where it thinks it’s controlling the flow but it actually isn’t doing anything so there is a delay in calling for heat and actually getting it.
At the moment you increase the temp then wait 10 mins on wiggle 1, then another 10 on wiggle 2 then finally wiggle 3 and the boiler kicks in.
I can deal with it but the other half wants heat when she ups the temp like on a normal stat.
The Migo has a direct connection to the boiler so will control the flow and give even ‘long but low’ heat which is meant to be more pleasant than the on/off of a traditional stat.
How did you connect your tado directly to the eBus? Is yours the wireless one as mine is wired?
Edit: I guess yours is wireless to the tado extension kit then you use the wired digital connection from the ek to the boiler.
I cant do that with my setup as its a wired stat and if I use the ek then I can only either get hot water control or flow control, not both from what tado has said and also on the tado forums.
At the moment it’s a fancy on/off switch that only does anything on 3 wiggles.
1 and 2 wiggles are where it thinks it’s controlling the flow but it actually isn’t doing anything so there is a delay in calling for heat and actually getting it.
At the moment you increase the temp then wait 10 mins on wiggle 1, then another 10 on wiggle 2 then finally wiggle 3 and the boiler kicks in.
I can deal with it but the other half wants heat when she ups the temp like on a normal stat.
The Migo has a direct connection to the boiler so will control the flow and give even ‘long but low’ heat which is meant to be more pleasant than the on/off of a traditional stat.
How did you connect your tado directly to the eBus? Is yours the wireless one as mine is wired?
Edit: I guess yours is wireless to the tado extension kit then you use the wired digital connection from the ek to the boiler.
I cant do that with my setup as its a wired stat and if I use the ek then I can only either get hot water control or flow control, not both from what tado has said and also on the tado forums.
Edited by KTF on Monday 6th November 09:20
We are expecting to move house around the end of the year. Having had Evohome in our current house for around 6 years, the new one does not have a smart heating system though does have a zones I believe - at least a separate zone for the under-floor heating in the kitchen. I am not going to rush to replace it with Evohome or anything else; the fact that Evohome requires battery replacement in the TRVs every 18 months or so (all at different times, so it feels like you're replacing them regularly), the noise from the TRVs and the fact that my wife still can't understand it means I may take a backwards step. Apart from turning up the heating from my phone I don't think we get any great efficiency benefits from the smart TRVs over traditional dumb ones because we still tend to heat the whole house; it's easy enough to limit the temperature in bedrooms by turning a dumb TRV down.
I also have a basic Wiser system in our holiday home - only bought to allow me to turn the heating on remotely before we arrive there. When I was there last month the room thermostat had died due to the batteries running out. Putting new batteries in did not reconnect it so I ended up doing a factory reset on it and having to re-pair it. Fortunately the heating schedules weren't lost because they're stored remotely and were still visible in the app once I'd re-paired it. But the faff and time taken to do a factory reset and re-pair it put me off Wiser again.
I also have a basic Wiser system in our holiday home - only bought to allow me to turn the heating on remotely before we arrive there. When I was there last month the room thermostat had died due to the batteries running out. Putting new batteries in did not reconnect it so I ended up doing a factory reset on it and having to re-pair it. Fortunately the heating schedules weren't lost because they're stored remotely and were still visible in the app once I'd re-paired it. But the faff and time taken to do a factory reset and re-pair it put me off Wiser again.
KTF said:
I have a heat only boiler so the tado can’t do the modulation, etc.
At the moment it’s a fancy on/off switch that only does anything on 3 wiggles.
1 and 2 wiggles are where it thinks it’s controlling the flow but it actually isn’t doing anything so there is a delay in calling for heat and actually getting it.
At the moment you increase the temp then wait 10 mins on wiggle 1, then another 10 on wiggle 2 then finally wiggle 3 and the boiler kicks in.
I can deal with it but the other half wants heat when she ups the temp like on a normal stat.
The Migo has a direct connection to the boiler so will control the flow and give even ‘long but low’ heat which is meant to be more pleasant than the on/off of a traditional stat.
How low can your boiler modulate? Min on our Glow Worm Energy 7 is 7.5kW, so I can't see Migo on eBus being much advantage unless yours is lower.At the moment it’s a fancy on/off switch that only does anything on 3 wiggles.
1 and 2 wiggles are where it thinks it’s controlling the flow but it actually isn’t doing anything so there is a delay in calling for heat and actually getting it.
At the moment you increase the temp then wait 10 mins on wiggle 1, then another 10 on wiggle 2 then finally wiggle 3 and the boiler kicks in.
I can deal with it but the other half wants heat when she ups the temp like on a normal stat.
The Migo has a direct connection to the boiler so will control the flow and give even ‘long but low’ heat which is meant to be more pleasant than the on/off of a traditional stat.
More generally, Tado does seem very crude, and it's like someone in Germany is deciding whether you can have your heating on or not. For me it mostly does respond pretty quickly but the other morning the heating was 35mins turning on, and our bedroom is often 5 mins late.
I particularly think the temp response of the TRVs is ridiculous - even set on 25 they'll be shutting off when the room is 20 because the TRV itself is heating up. I know you can offset them but their reaction is too variable - and it looks daft if you're not looking at the real readings.
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