Weed Killer- the daddy?
Discussion
budgie smuggler said:
dave_s13 said:
Andrew[MG] said:
Andrew[MG] said:
BlackZeD said:
Glyphostae is sh*t, the stuff in the attached link is the "dogs" and it is still legal..... as a
compost accelerator.
I used some stuff from a farmer friend, that killed everything, it was called "gpastor" by
Dow Corning, dunno if you have to be a farmer to use/buy it though.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mistral-Ammonium-Sulphamat...
Ordered some of this yesterday. How safe is it to use on weeds around the base of trees?compost accelerator.
I used some stuff from a farmer friend, that killed everything, it was called "gpastor" by
Dow Corning, dunno if you have to be a farmer to use/buy it though.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mistral-Ammonium-Sulphamat...
t load of unwanted foliage in the middle of this drive a very unhealthy shade of light yellow. Can't post pic off my phone.... Hang on
would suggest it's definitely not going to fell a tree, unless you soak the ground with a few thousand litres of the stuff.
d stuff is impervious to glyphosate and spreads like cheap margarine. Just to bump this I need to totally kil lall weeds/grass in an area where I wnat to relawn in 2-3 months
I have seen the Ammonium Sulphamate above.
I also note you can get Glyphosate in concentrated form.
I did use Roundup before and it killed the old lawn/weeds i nJune but they are back already. Roudnup is sold as 7.2g/L of Glyphosate.
Suggested use for this other stuff is 20g/L
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ROSATE-STRONG-PROFESSIONAL...
I have seen the Ammonium Sulphamate above.
I also note you can get Glyphosate in concentrated form.
I did use Roundup before and it killed the old lawn/weeds i nJune but they are back already. Roudnup is sold as 7.2g/L of Glyphosate.
Suggested use for this other stuff is 20g/L
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ROSATE-STRONG-PROFESSIONAL...
Mojooo said:
Just to bump this I need to totally kil lall weeds/grass in an area where I wnat to relawn in 2-3 months
Glyphosate it a few weeks before you want to relawn. And then glyphosate again a couple of days before, if any weeds have germinated. Alternatively, glyphosate now and repeat the dose every few weeks to keep killing off the weeds that germinate and hence remove some of the 'seed bank' of weeds.Don't use ammonium sulphamate because any residual dose remaining in the soil could cause problems for your new turf. Glyphosate is guaranteed to be safe.
For my block paved drive I was concerned at the amount of chemicals needed to keep the weeds down as none seemed to have any staying power.; was getting expensive and didn't want it to leach into the flower beds.
On a whim I bought this from the local garden centre and now weeding is quite fun; it's like a hot air gun and makes the weeds pop crackile and burn in a matter of seconds and none have re grown - 15 mins a week I can nip out and get any new weeds trying to grow
http://www.hozelock.com/weed-control/hozelock-gree...
Adam
On a whim I bought this from the local garden centre and now weeding is quite fun; it's like a hot air gun and makes the weeds pop crackile and burn in a matter of seconds and none have re grown - 15 mins a week I can nip out and get any new weeds trying to grow
http://www.hozelock.com/weed-control/hozelock-gree...
Adam
From a guy called John Harrison;
For many years I’ve used ammonium sulphamate as a weedkiller.
It’s a very simple chemical, basically the same as sulphate of ammonia the nitrogen fertiliser but made crooked.
I’m no chemist, but it was explained to me that it worked very much like carbon monoxide does in our bloodstream. The plants think they are taking in nitrogen fertiliser but, because the molecule is wrong, they can not use it and so die off.
It’s never been a cheap weedkiller, there’s not the volume to give real economy of scale, but it is very effective.
It’s taken right down to the plant roots and it’s the most effective way to deal with an infestation of horse tail. Because it is a simple chemical the environmental effects are easy to judge.
When it is sprayed onto the soil any plants will die but gradually the effect of the oxygen is to turn it back into sulphate of ammonia, the fertiliser.
The worst case scenario is that the soil is made slightly more acid and the NPK balance gets affected for a short while.This simple chemical formulation means that we know the risks to human safety pretty clearly. They’re not much different to the fertilizer. Obviously you’re not going to eat it in the same way you’re not going to eat a bag of fertilizer and if you did try the acidity and taste would stop you taking in enough to do harm.
For many years I’ve used ammonium sulphamate as a weedkiller.
It’s a very simple chemical, basically the same as sulphate of ammonia the nitrogen fertiliser but made crooked.
I’m no chemist, but it was explained to me that it worked very much like carbon monoxide does in our bloodstream. The plants think they are taking in nitrogen fertiliser but, because the molecule is wrong, they can not use it and so die off.
It’s never been a cheap weedkiller, there’s not the volume to give real economy of scale, but it is very effective.
It’s taken right down to the plant roots and it’s the most effective way to deal with an infestation of horse tail. Because it is a simple chemical the environmental effects are easy to judge.
When it is sprayed onto the soil any plants will die but gradually the effect of the oxygen is to turn it back into sulphate of ammonia, the fertiliser.
The worst case scenario is that the soil is made slightly more acid and the NPK balance gets affected for a short while.This simple chemical formulation means that we know the risks to human safety pretty clearly. They’re not much different to the fertilizer. Obviously you’re not going to eat it in the same way you’re not going to eat a bag of fertilizer and if you did try the acidity and taste would stop you taking in enough to do harm.
Glysophate and ammonium sulphate are both systemic (kills the whole plant) but breakdown in the soil, so are fairly short lasting. Which is useful for some situations, but not for driveways and the like.
I would just use glysophate, cheap and cheerful, and does a good job. Buy 1 litre of 360g/l conc and it'll last for ages.
I would just use glysophate, cheap and cheerful, and does a good job. Buy 1 litre of 360g/l conc and it'll last for ages.
I've got a Buddleia bush coming through a wall (and pushing the blocks apart), by hell it's a fast growing pain in the arse.
I'm unable to get to the roots to dig it out and have previously just cut it right back, but it seems to like it and just grows back even faster.
Anyway I have given the leaves a good misting with glyphosate about a week ago (they're wilting a bit) and appreciate that one application won't suffice, so will a spraying a day help kill the fker, or should I zap it once a week, month?
I'm unable to get to the roots to dig it out and have previously just cut it right back, but it seems to like it and just grows back even faster.
Anyway I have given the leaves a good misting with glyphosate about a week ago (they're wilting a bit) and appreciate that one application won't suffice, so will a spraying a day help kill the f
ker, or should I zap it once a week, month?bingybongy said:
Anyway I have given the leaves a good misting with glyphosate about a week ago (they're wilting a bit) and appreciate that one application won't suffice, so will a spraying a day help kill the fker, or should I zap it once a week, month?
It should tell you the respray interval on the pack. I'd suggest 7-10 days (weather permitting) or whenever you see new growth.ker, or should I zap it once a week, month?BTW 'systemic' means translocated, ie to the roots, as opposed to 'kills the whole plant'. Insecticides can be systemic but don't kill the plant.
bingybongy said:
I've got a Buddleia bush coming through a wall (and pushing the blocks apart), by hell it's a fast growing pain in the arse.
I'm unable to get to the roots to dig it out and have previously just cut it right back, but it seems to like it and just grows back even faster.
Anyway I have given the leaves a good misting with glyphosate about a week ago (they're wilting a bit) and appreciate that one application won't suffice, so will a spraying a day help kill the fker, or should I zap it once a week, month?
Leave it and let it die back. If it starts to grow again give it another dose. Compare to grass and the normal stuff you treat with glyphosate, it is a big plant, so the chemical has a long way to before it starts to work. I think I sprayed mine twice and it was a gonna.I'm unable to get to the roots to dig it out and have previously just cut it right back, but it seems to like it and just grows back even faster.
Anyway I have given the leaves a good misting with glyphosate about a week ago (they're wilting a bit) and appreciate that one application won't suffice, so will a spraying a day help kill the f
ker, or should I zap it once a week, month?I'm not sure what the actual application rate if for spraying with a knapsack sprayer compared with doing it with a machine in a field, but I bet it is significantly more and it never seems to be quite as effective, so don't be tempted to drown the plant.
I find this stuff excellent, pricey though at £45 or so a litre.
http://uk.dowagro.com/products/icade/
http://uk.dowagro.com/products/icade/
Sad news from my garden. In a tragic spraying mishap yesterday, I accidentally sprayed my prize horsetail collection with a strong solution of compost accelerator and detergent. Today, they are already going brown. Unlike the time I accidentally sprayed them with glyphosate and they shrugged it off, this time I fear they will not survive. A salutary lesson for anyone trying to grow horsetail, keep the ammonium sulphamate well away from it.
Just reading today that glyphosate is about to ge classed as a cancer causing chemical in California after health studies. I have no idea if being classed as carcinogenic there will be followed up in other parts of the US, nor whether the EU will do the same.
Either way, be extremely careful when spraying not to breath in any of the mist. Choose a day when the wind is in your favour for spraying down wind!
Either way, be extremely careful when spraying not to breath in any of the mist. Choose a day when the wind is in your favour for spraying down wind!
227bhp said:
Spudler said:
227bhp said:
What is good for woody stuff like brambles? I've managed to stunt their growth this year, but not killed them completely.
Clinic Ace.te, I got some after recommendation on here. Get someone to read you the instructions.
""s
t", it certainly isn't.Spudler said:
227bhp said:
Spudler said:
227bhp said:
What is good for woody stuff like brambles? I've managed to stunt their growth this year, but not killed them completely.
Clinic Ace.te, I got some after recommendation on here. Get someone to read you the instructions.
""s
t", it certainly isn't.
Instructions are here so you can read them for yourself: http://www.nufarm.com/Assets/12786/1/NufarmClinicA...
It says nothing about treating brambles nor does it kill them you d
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