Garage flooring
Discussion
MGTS said:
Lockhouse - looks great! What did you use to stick the carpet tiles to the wall? Presumably they help with opening the car doors in a tight space. Any problems with the carpet tiles yet?
Thanks. I used Evo-Stick Ultimate impact adhesive liberally applied with a gun straight onto the tile then lightly malleted onto the breeze block. Too early to say how effective it is but it seemed to do the job. My new car will only just fit and didn't want to take any chances.are they white and nonslip,how easy to keep and work on
gary71 said:
My garage is now finished with porcelin tiles. This is an earlier work in progress picture:
This was also on a new build floor as above (other than three years of use) using normal Bal rapidset flexible floor adhesive (fully bedded rather than dabs) and dark grey grout .
I've done plenty of work on the car since, had it up on axle stands etc and all seems fine. I must admit to being a little concerned that it would just crack the first time I parked on it!
I sorted the threshold with a bevelled chrome edging strip cemented under the tile edge and grouted. It has also survived daily use without damage.
This was also on a new build floor as above (other than three years of use) using normal Bal rapidset flexible floor adhesive (fully bedded rather than dabs) and dark grey grout .
I've done plenty of work on the car since, had it up on axle stands etc and all seems fine. I must admit to being a little concerned that it would just crack the first time I parked on it!
I sorted the threshold with a bevelled chrome edging strip cemented under the tile edge and grouted. It has also survived daily use without damage.
Hi They are matt finish but not non slip.
Dead easy to clean as they are smooth, but being white and in a garage you have to accept they will never really be clean!
As mentioned above I'm using the garage through the winter for the daily drive so keeping it clean is impossible and a bit pointless.
As for working on they will tolerate a trolley jack and axles stands straight onto them. Easy to clean up oil spills etc. Large welding splatter does stick (melt) to the surface though.
Dead easy to clean as they are smooth, but being white and in a garage you have to accept they will never really be clean!
As mentioned above I'm using the garage through the winter for the daily drive so keeping it clean is impossible and a bit pointless.
As for working on they will tolerate a trolley jack and axles stands straight onto them. Easy to clean up oil spills etc. Large welding splatter does stick (melt) to the surface though.
wotnot said:
Thanks very much.
They're Dura cabinets. They're stupidly expensive but the garage came in under budget so I treated myself to them and the CarVac.
You're correct about the insulation and plasterboard. The glow next to the bike on the ramp is my halogen heater. 10 minutes of that and I'm able to work in jeans and tee shirt, even on really cold nights.
The OCD in me rages against the floor but, overall, it's a nice place to spend a few hours of an evening!
I too have Dura cabinets - really great quality - I agree not cheap , but not bad value also . I notice you've got stuff hanging off yours - I have those little hanging holes everyehere but no idea where to get the prongs / hanging box trays to kit It out - where are yours from ? Cheers They're Dura cabinets. They're stupidly expensive but the garage came in under budget so I treated myself to them and the CarVac.
You're correct about the insulation and plasterboard. The glow next to the bike on the ramp is my halogen heater. 10 minutes of that and I'm able to work in jeans and tee shirt, even on really cold nights.
The OCD in me rages against the floor but, overall, it's a nice place to spend a few hours of an evening!
While we're chatting about GaragePride cabinets has anyone used their floor tiles? I like the look of these plain ones but at £36 sq mtr that's costly ... http://www.garagepride.co.uk/garage-flooring-tiles...
Also is this the right thread to ask what the latest ideas in lighting are? I have the usual discarded office fluorescent strip lights but wondered if LED is better?
Also is this the right thread to ask what the latest ideas in lighting are? I have the usual discarded office fluorescent strip lights but wondered if LED is better?
RSVP911 said:
I too have Dura cabinets - really great quality - I agree not cheap , but not bad value also . I notice you've got stuff hanging off yours - I have those little hanging holes everyehere but no idea where to get the prongs / hanging box trays to kit It out - where are yours from ? Cheers
I've got to agree. For some reason I love the feeling of those gas struts extending...Sorry to disappoint. I didn't specify the hanging holes, I went for the louvred back panel instead and used good old Machine Mart trays to hang off it. Dura's smart green trays look great but like everything else they make, they're a bit pricey.
RichB said:
While we're chatting about GaragePride cabinets has anyone used their floor tiles? I like the look of these plain ones but at £36 sq mtr that's costly ... http://www.garagepride.co.uk/garage-flooring-tiles...
Also is this the right thread to ask what the latest ideas in lighting are? I have the usual discarded office fluorescent strip lights but wondered if LED is better?
I went up to the Dura showroom at Brackley to have a look at the cabinets before I bought them and I must admit I was very tempted by their floor tiles. They're excellent quality but I simply couldn't justify the price.Also is this the right thread to ask what the latest ideas in lighting are? I have the usual discarded office fluorescent strip lights but wondered if LED is better?
I would imagine one or two of the more well-heeled enthusiasts on this sight have them and I doubt they are disappointed!
As for lighting, I used to have fluorescent strip lights but changed them for LED downlights when I had the garage rebuilt. To my mind, a great improvement.
How much did it cost for the electric door, ceiling including insulation, lights and tiles wotnot? have a double garage but it's just a shell at the moment with a manual door, Did you not consider a roller door since the sectional door seems to block most of the ceiling when open, kind of annoying and blocks the lights at night, no?
Whilst I haven't studied this thread in detail, I am not seeing a "got to" flooring solution that is both good value and competent.
We need to do our garage soon, ideally in two colour rubber tiles, and we want something both good value and sound. We certainly don't want them discolouring. Anyone done this and been happy with a particular product?
another one here looking for a decent garage floor. Personally I'm not a fan of the clip in plastic tiles, whilst it does a job it looks like a cheap option. I've done some Googling and found this, http://www.vubaresinflooring.co.uk/ I'm going to make some enquiries for a resin floor. If its a success I'll let you know. If its an expensive failure you won't hear from me again.
I'm still planning on using this stuff as my floor is really uneven:
http://www.floorpaintexpress.co.uk/level-it-concre...
Just haven't got round to doing it yet, despite talking about it on page one of this thread ;(
http://www.floorpaintexpress.co.uk/level-it-concre...
Just haven't got round to doing it yet, despite talking about it on page one of this thread ;(
Previously posted on a different thread but no answers. Posting here in case someobne knowledgable is watching.
My garage has a rough concrete floor. I want to make it look nice by tiling it, together with painting the walls white, boarding the ceiling and installing a massive workbench.
There are lots of ways to make the floor nice, but one hurdle is the two manhole covers in the floor. I'm reluctant to (ceramic) tile over these as they are clearly there for a reason, so was considering the mototile route as these can be taken up if necessary. However, the uneven-ness of the floor means it will probably need levelling with some sort of screed first.
The question is, how do I level the floor without covering the manhole cover and making it impossible to ever remove. I'm currently thinking of making a thin plywood frame round the cover, pouring the screed and them remivong it, so the floor is level and I can them Mototile on top, but I was curious to know if any others ahd faced this dilemma.
My garage has a rough concrete floor. I want to make it look nice by tiling it, together with painting the walls white, boarding the ceiling and installing a massive workbench.
There are lots of ways to make the floor nice, but one hurdle is the two manhole covers in the floor. I'm reluctant to (ceramic) tile over these as they are clearly there for a reason, so was considering the mototile route as these can be taken up if necessary. However, the uneven-ness of the floor means it will probably need levelling with some sort of screed first.
The question is, how do I level the floor without covering the manhole cover and making it impossible to ever remove. I'm currently thinking of making a thin plywood frame round the cover, pouring the screed and them remivong it, so the floor is level and I can them Mototile on top, but I was curious to know if any others ahd faced this dilemma.
8Ace said:
Previously posted on a different thread but no answers. Posting here in case someobne knowledgable is watching.
My garage has a rough concrete floor. I want to make it look nice by tiling it, together with painting the walls white, boarding the ceiling and installing a massive workbench.
There are lots of ways to make the floor nice, but one hurdle is the two manhole covers in the floor. I'm reluctant to (ceramic) tile over these as they are clearly there for a reason, so was considering the mototile route as these can be taken up if necessary. However, the uneven-ness of the floor means it will probably need levelling with some sort of screed first.
The question is, how do I level the floor without covering the manhole cover and making it impossible to ever remove. I'm currently thinking of making a thin plywood frame round the cover, pouring the screed and them remivong it, so the floor is level and I can them Mototile on top, but I was curious to know if any others ahd faced this dilemma.
How about replacing the manhole covers with recessed ones and tiling into them.My garage has a rough concrete floor. I want to make it look nice by tiling it, together with painting the walls white, boarding the ceiling and installing a massive workbench.
There are lots of ways to make the floor nice, but one hurdle is the two manhole covers in the floor. I'm reluctant to (ceramic) tile over these as they are clearly there for a reason, so was considering the mototile route as these can be taken up if necessary. However, the uneven-ness of the floor means it will probably need levelling with some sort of screed first.
The question is, how do I level the floor without covering the manhole cover and making it impossible to ever remove. I'm currently thinking of making a thin plywood frame round the cover, pouring the screed and them remivong it, so the floor is level and I can them Mototile on top, but I was curious to know if any others ahd faced this dilemma.
Bit more work but it's the "proper" way, still access the manholes.
I had Ecotile 500/7 in our previous house and have just done the new 31 sq mtr garage with the same product, albeit in a different finish. FWIW, I costed out how much each of the various plastic/foam tile options would cost in case it helps anyone else make the comparison. In the end I got the Ecotile 500/7 for about £720 by calling them up and agreeing a reduced price for an end of batch. Definitely worth a try rather than just paying full price through the web shop.
http://www.bigdug.co.uk/mats-flooring-c402/interlo... (£549, too thick IMHO)
http://www.plasfloor.co.uk/plasfloor-tiles/product... (£621, didn't like the finish)
http://mototile.com/tile-calc-metric.html (£687, mototile motolock recycled, very nasty finish)
http://www.kiwitiles.com/#delivery (£700 rejected as they are porous)
http://mototile.com/tile-calc-metric.html (£816 mototile 333mm - rejected as concerns about heat damage)
http://www.ecotileflooring.com/store/ecotile-produ... (£850 - not recommended for vehicles they say...)
http://mototile.com/tile-calc-metric.html (£920 mototile motolock)
http://www.ecotileflooring.com/store/dark-grey-gar... (£1168 ecotile 500/7)
http://www.bigdug.co.uk/mats-flooring-c402/interlo... (£549, too thick IMHO)
http://www.plasfloor.co.uk/plasfloor-tiles/product... (£621, didn't like the finish)
http://mototile.com/tile-calc-metric.html (£687, mototile motolock recycled, very nasty finish)
http://www.kiwitiles.com/#delivery (£700 rejected as they are porous)
http://mototile.com/tile-calc-metric.html (£816 mototile 333mm - rejected as concerns about heat damage)
http://www.ecotileflooring.com/store/ecotile-produ... (£850 - not recommended for vehicles they say...)
http://mototile.com/tile-calc-metric.html (£920 mototile motolock)
http://www.ecotileflooring.com/store/dark-grey-gar... (£1168 ecotile 500/7)
Good research but also . . .
http://www.garagepride.co.uk/product/garage-floor-... (£1113 virgin plastic, attractive, designed for automotive use)
http://www.garagepride.co.uk/product/garage-floor-... (£1113 virgin plastic, attractive, designed for automotive use)
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