Here's my refurb thread
Discussion
E31Shrew, I'm guessing you meant this website? http://www.backtofrontexteriordesign.com/
It is superb, some great turnarounds on it!
It is superb, some great turnarounds on it!
Very similar to our house 
Ours was OK outside, needed the inside redoing
House and Chevy by NickGrant.co.uk, on Flickr
Ours was OK outside, needed the inside redoing House and Chevy by NickGrant.co.uk, on Flickr
GP335i said:
E31Shrew, I'm guessing you meant this website? http://www.backtofrontexteriordesign.com/
It is superb, some great turnarounds on it!
I'm not worthy! That's the oneIt is superb, some great turnarounds on it!
GP335i said:
Chr1sch said:
Really really nice, love the cladding, if you dont mind me asking, how much did the cladding on the front cost?
We've just bought a 60@s house covered in UPVC cladding and its awful, this would be a massive improvement!
Sure, the cedar for the cladding and soffits came to about £1200, budget another £50 for a 5kg box of stainless steel nails. The joiner took £2.5k to fit it all but this included new facias all round (supplied by him), tower scaffold hire and fitting the front door. Google silvatimber for the wood, if its got to come any far distance though call up first and tell them to beef up the packaging, I had 3 or 4 deliveries with a lot of damaged boards!We've just bought a 60@s house covered in UPVC cladding and its awful, this would be a massive improvement!
Have to agree on the PVC, although long lasting its not my favourite material.
No probs, glad to help!
Choose my roof tiles a few days ago, went with Marley modern interlocking tiles in smooth grey. The Dry verge I've already purchased is also Marley in grey.
Taking the opportunity to get a couple Marley tile vents put in to re-route my bathroom ventilation, at the moment they exit through a couple of grilles at the Eaves. This will be far neater and it's the last thing to clear from that wall before the garage will be built (I've already re-routed phone, tv cables etc)
Choose my roof tiles a few days ago, went with Marley modern interlocking tiles in smooth grey. The Dry verge I've already purchased is also Marley in grey.
Taking the opportunity to get a couple Marley tile vents put in to re-route my bathroom ventilation, at the moment they exit through a couple of grilles at the Eaves. This will be far neater and it's the last thing to clear from that wall before the garage will be built (I've already re-routed phone, tv cables etc)
So...
Was let down by a roofer after waiting 2 months for them to start the job, I should've took the hint as they were never getting back to me. You live and learn though I guess! Have another chap lined up now to do it and he'll be starting later this week so this little lot got delivered. Taking the whole lot back to the bare sarking boards, replacing any rotten ones, fitting new breathable membrane, re-battoning with counter battons also to allow drainage then fitting the Marley modern smooth tiles with dry verge and dry ridge.
This will be it for the year, my only other job that I want out of the way this year is tidying up the broken render around where the new entrance door was fitted.
I've bottomed out all my tanking details for the garage, now going with a bitumen membrane running through the internal brickwork leaf and up/out the outer leaf. The external leaf will be engineering brick tanked with RIW LAC and also fitted with double drain membrane. It'll drain into a 50mm land drain. Would've preferred a standard 110mm pipe but this is all I have room for. The walls a bit thicker than I'd hoped for (330 minimum, 545 where piered)
Just waiting for a bonus arriving from work then this work can get moving in Spring, happy days!
Was let down by a roofer after waiting 2 months for them to start the job, I should've took the hint as they were never getting back to me. You live and learn though I guess! Have another chap lined up now to do it and he'll be starting later this week so this little lot got delivered. Taking the whole lot back to the bare sarking boards, replacing any rotten ones, fitting new breathable membrane, re-battoning with counter battons also to allow drainage then fitting the Marley modern smooth tiles with dry verge and dry ridge.
This will be it for the year, my only other job that I want out of the way this year is tidying up the broken render around where the new entrance door was fitted.
I've bottomed out all my tanking details for the garage, now going with a bitumen membrane running through the internal brickwork leaf and up/out the outer leaf. The external leaf will be engineering brick tanked with RIW LAC and also fitted with double drain membrane. It'll drain into a 50mm land drain. Would've preferred a standard 110mm pipe but this is all I have room for. The walls a bit thicker than I'd hoped for (330 minimum, 545 where piered)
Just waiting for a bonus arriving from work then this work can get moving in Spring, happy days!
Not while this work's being done but it is on the cards for next year once building control catches up with me!
When my cladding, facias etc were re-done a lot of tiles, ridge caps etc got broken as well as the pointing which was way past its best. When I priced up fitting dry verge, sourcing new (old) tiles and fixing a lot of knackered felt it kind of made more sense to do this. I'm not sure how much truth there is in it but a few people have said the old tiles have a 20-25 year life span, these ones are about 40 years old.
When my garage goes up the plan is to swap out the ridge for a ventilated one, fit over eaves ventilators then insulate (below sarkins with a 50mm air gap) with PIR.
By the way, please let me know if you can see any potential issues with what's happening, a lot of this has been advice from local roofers rather than my own research.
At the moment the roof build up is rafters, sarkin boards, felt, horizontal battens, tiles. There are 4 air bricks feeding into the small lofts at either side of the house.
The new build up would be rafters, sarkin boards, breathable membrane, 12 thick vertical battens, 25 thick horizontal battens, tiles.
Any advice is much appreciated!
Edit: Actually I'm not sure if the 12 thick battens will go above or below the membrane as either way it'll create drainage troughs avoiding dams on the horizontal battens.
When my cladding, facias etc were re-done a lot of tiles, ridge caps etc got broken as well as the pointing which was way past its best. When I priced up fitting dry verge, sourcing new (old) tiles and fixing a lot of knackered felt it kind of made more sense to do this. I'm not sure how much truth there is in it but a few people have said the old tiles have a 20-25 year life span, these ones are about 40 years old.
When my garage goes up the plan is to swap out the ridge for a ventilated one, fit over eaves ventilators then insulate (below sarkins with a 50mm air gap) with PIR.
By the way, please let me know if you can see any potential issues with what's happening, a lot of this has been advice from local roofers rather than my own research.
At the moment the roof build up is rafters, sarkin boards, felt, horizontal battens, tiles. There are 4 air bricks feeding into the small lofts at either side of the house.
The new build up would be rafters, sarkin boards, breathable membrane, 12 thick vertical battens, 25 thick horizontal battens, tiles.
Any advice is much appreciated!
Edit: Actually I'm not sure if the 12 thick battens will go above or below the membrane as either way it'll create drainage troughs avoiding dams on the horizontal battens.
Edited by GP335i on Monday 11th November 22:47
Advice - get building control involved. If you replace more than 25% of roof covering, they WILL make you insulate properly to regs if you haven't. While this is Ok if you have a "cold roof" I.e are not using loft space as living area, you can get away with loft floor insulation - 270mm of glass mat, or functional equivalent in other material. But if you want to ever use the loft as living space, or do already, you will need a properly insulated roof, and will have to do it then. cheaper to do a proper job while doing the new tiling and battens etc., especially if you intend to convert the loft into living space at some future date. have mind to the correct air gaps needed under the tiles, depending on what kind of membrane you are using...
I did mine with Celotex board and insulated plasterboard, and it is really good. I also insulated the loft floor when I put the floor in, for good measure. Main house now keeps heat so much better than before, and loft itself is toasty as new radiators were plumbed in up there (minor job with floor joists exposed)
Hope that helps! I just went through all this, so have lots of detail if required!
I did mine with Celotex board and insulated plasterboard, and it is really good. I also insulated the loft floor when I put the floor in, for good measure. Main house now keeps heat so much better than before, and loft itself is toasty as new radiators were plumbed in up there (minor job with floor joists exposed)
Hope that helps! I just went through all this, so have lots of detail if required!
Edited by Harry Flashman on Tuesday 12th November 09:48
roofer said:
If its close boarded and you're counter battening, are you insulating ?
Of course, you can always insulate at a later date on the inside of the roof - but you will eat into loft space, and go through a second round of disruption. If relaying the roof anyway, why not build something with some insulation built in, and keep the house warmer this winter?Edited by Harry Flashman on Tuesday 12th November 09:49
Harry Flashman said:
Advice - get building control involved. If you replace more than 25% of roof covering, they WILL make you insulate properly to regs if you haven't. While this is Ok if you have a "cold roof" I.e are not using loft space as living area, you can get away with loft floor insulation - 270mm of glass mat, or functional equivalent in other material. But if you want to ever use the loft as living space, or do already, you will need a properly insulated roof, and will have to do it then. cheaper to do a proper job while doing the new tiling and battens etc., especially if you intend to convert the loft into living space at some future date. have mind to the correct air gaps needed under the tiles, depending on what kind of membrane you are using...
I did mine with Celotex board and insulated plasterboard, and it is really good. I also insulated the loft floor when I put the floor in, for good measure. Main house now keeps heat so much better than before, and loft itself is toasty as new radiators were plumbed in up there (minor job with floor joists exposed)
Hope that helps! I just went through all this, so have lots of detail if required!
Appreciate the input! The upstairs has always been a couple of bedrooms since it was built and there's 2 small lofts, one at either end of the house. This means it'll be easier and not too much work to do between rafter/under insulation, the shape of the house too means I will barely notice the extra thickness of board either, adding it above for a warm roof would totally mess up the roof appearance as it already has tall facias etc. Building control will be round my way when my garage is going up so I'll bite the bullet and sort out the remainder of work at this time.I did mine with Celotex board and insulated plasterboard, and it is really good. I also insulated the loft floor when I put the floor in, for good measure. Main house now keeps heat so much better than before, and loft itself is toasty as new radiators were plumbed in up there (minor job with floor joists exposed)
Hope that helps! I just went through all this, so have lots of detail if required!
Edited by Harry Flashman on Tuesday 12th November 09:48
Edited by GP335i on Tuesday 12th November 11:20
Sorry I should have mentioned as well that almost all roofs in Scotland are fully clad above the rafters in wooden sarkin woods which makes it a big job to strip and drop in insulation. I believe in England a lot of roofs just have the membrane draped between the trusses which make it far easier to do externally.
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