Painting over a few decades - advice
Discussion
It's a bet late for this (and being honest the best way IS re skimming) but I use this paint when in the same situation
http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-woodcare/primer...
It may take two or three coats but so long as you have done all the filling and sanding right the a real good result can be achieved.
http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-woodcare/primer...
It may take two or three coats but so long as you have done all the filling and sanding right the a real good result can be achieved.
So I've been spending my precious weekends stripping 6(!) layers of paint on door frames, for better or for worse.
Finally broke the back of it today, leaving the room-side of each frame unstripped - it was repainted by old occupier (a painter/decorator) very nicely. Turns out after peeking under one of their painted bits that it was stripped before they eggshelled it, so I've saved myself the same task on the room side, and will just key it and paint over (thus starting the paint layer cycle all over again for a future generation).
Once done, I will be chemically stripping the last flecks of paint from the stripped frames, giving it a sand and a fill in parts, keying the newer paint, and then get our colour rolled out...
Photos. I'm learning on the job so there's some slightly crappy dents in the wood where I got too enthusiastic, and I've not managed to totally avoid burning the wood... but not too shoddy.
Got 2 weeks until we can mist coat the new plaster so the timing isn't too bad.[url]
Finally broke the back of it today, leaving the room-side of each frame unstripped - it was repainted by old occupier (a painter/decorator) very nicely. Turns out after peeking under one of their painted bits that it was stripped before they eggshelled it, so I've saved myself the same task on the room side, and will just key it and paint over (thus starting the paint layer cycle all over again for a future generation).
Once done, I will be chemically stripping the last flecks of paint from the stripped frames, giving it a sand and a fill in parts, keying the newer paint, and then get our colour rolled out...
Photos. I'm learning on the job so there's some slightly crappy dents in the wood where I got too enthusiastic, and I've not managed to totally avoid burning the wood... but not too shoddy.
Got 2 weeks until we can mist coat the new plaster so the timing isn't too bad.[url]
Another update. It has taken a good few weekends to actually do it, but I've stripped back all 5 door frames and surrounds. I've not done the inner frames because that'll require taking doors off and I don't quite have the enthusiasm for that yet.
For anyone who is interested, after a lot of internet advice browsing, I made a final hybrid way of working which really worked for me:
1. Heat gun and scrape 3-4 top layers of paint, mainly the tough outer paint.
2. Brush on chemical paint stripper. I did a comparison of Nitromors and TX10 and I found TX as good, if not better. And, it's only £25 for 5L, much cheaper than TX10.
3. Wirewool rub down the surface, which will pull 99% of the paint off, leaving a few ingrained bits, which you could probably remove if you really kept going at it.
4. Wash down with sugar soap/water mixture
Which brings me to 5... which will be to sand it down ready to be painted.
Doing this near new plaster was a bit nerve wracking. I masked every adjoining piece but it wasn't fun to do as I spent half my time trying not to get anything on it.
Anyway, I'm now at the point where I have lots of options. I can do the insides of the frames (easy bit), or I can mist-coat walls. I'm thinking of finishing stripping all of the stairway wood as I'd rather do that when I can make a mess easily without worrying about freshly painted walls.
For anyone who is interested, after a lot of internet advice browsing, I made a final hybrid way of working which really worked for me:
1. Heat gun and scrape 3-4 top layers of paint, mainly the tough outer paint.
2. Brush on chemical paint stripper. I did a comparison of Nitromors and TX10 and I found TX as good, if not better. And, it's only £25 for 5L, much cheaper than TX10.
3. Wirewool rub down the surface, which will pull 99% of the paint off, leaving a few ingrained bits, which you could probably remove if you really kept going at it.
4. Wash down with sugar soap/water mixture
Which brings me to 5... which will be to sand it down ready to be painted.
Doing this near new plaster was a bit nerve wracking. I masked every adjoining piece but it wasn't fun to do as I spent half my time trying not to get anything on it.
Anyway, I'm now at the point where I have lots of options. I can do the insides of the frames (easy bit), or I can mist-coat walls. I'm thinking of finishing stripping all of the stairway wood as I'd rather do that when I can make a mess easily without worrying about freshly painted walls.
Craikeybaby said:
Good work. I'm beginning to thing I should have done that on our door frames, but it would probably have been better to do it before painting the room and getting the carpets fitted
It's frustrating to still not be painting the walls (I've even bought the mixed paint!) but I know it'll pay off. I don't want to be sanding near newly painted walls, so that will come first.As for carpet - I've destroyed the (already pretty bad) carpet that came with the house doing this. Melted it in a few places! I would rip it up until replacement but the floorboards need totally replacing on the landing as there's a few holes in the floor(!) that it's covering up. So, carpet won't be ripped up until I have the guts to replace the landing floor.
My main debate is whether I paint the walls once frames are sanded, or work my way down the stairs and get the banister and skirting/stair construction stripped first, then paint walls. It's never ending.
Here we go, I took the plunge. Sanded all the wood down and filled the entire house with dust, cleaned up... then had just enough time to practice my cutting in with a mist coat, though I can't help but think even though the contract emulsion was 40% watered down, it still came up pretty white on one coat.
|http://thumbsnap.com/xryx7R4a
Anyone got any experience with one of these Shur-Lines? Apparently pretty good on the end of a pole...
Just spent a day on various configurations of my multi-ladder on the stairs painting the ceiling, and I'd quite like to not have to do so again. The stairs folds back on itself which actually means the clever platform thing is only useful for one half of the ceiling.
|http://thumbsnap.com/xryx7R4a
Anyone got any experience with one of these Shur-Lines? Apparently pretty good on the end of a pole...
Just spent a day on various configurations of my multi-ladder on the stairs painting the ceiling, and I'd quite like to not have to do so again. The stairs folds back on itself which actually means the clever platform thing is only useful for one half of the ceiling.
Looking very good.
Quick question- Why are you leaving the staircase as-is? Appreciate tastes differ but seems an ideal time to change it to the traditional design (I'm assuming you can keep the staircase and just buy and swap the bits).
quick google says yes:
http://www.hwkservices.co.uk/replace-handrailbalus...
http://www.westmidscarpentry.co.uk/stairs.html
Quick question- Why are you leaving the staircase as-is? Appreciate tastes differ but seems an ideal time to change it to the traditional design (I'm assuming you can keep the staircase and just buy and swap the bits).
quick google says yes:
http://www.hwkservices.co.uk/replace-handrailbalus...
http://www.westmidscarpentry.co.uk/stairs.html
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