Reliable, Secure, Electric Gates - What Spec ?

[V8RX7]

I was intending to leave gates until the end of the project depending upon what was left in the budget but as my wife pointed out - security is most needed whilst we're refurbing the house (nearest neighbours are 200m away)

So what do I need to ask for ?

I want reliability and security - IE the Ford Mondeo of the gate world.

I've been informed that sliding gates with a lower track are most secure.

What automation system do I want / want to avoid ?

I don't want anything fancy but galvanised steel which is then painted / powdercoated appeals.

A quick look around shows similar looking gates from £1-6k

I talked to a local specialist who started at "around £6k" and ended up at

6'x 12' arch top gate £1k
3 Posts £250
Automation £1000
Install £1000 (after I've provided elec to the gate)

So £3250 all in.

The install and automation look expensive to me BUT I do want decent stuff - is that what it costs ?

[V8RX7]

This was the style of gate I was considering - but welded up to convert it into a slider

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160683242461

[RedLeicester]

Those figures don't look too bad to be honest. Install might be a tad high depending on what the "posts" comprise of, but the motors / handsets / associated wiring etc isn't exactly cheap - you could probably halve that, but are likely to halve the quality while you're at it.

We had a large slider built a few years ago, and the motors and kit were a bit higher than that, the install lower but mainly as I borrowed a digger to run a trench up to the house for the cabling myself.

[V8RX7]

Thanks

His price was based on him supplying and fitting steel posts (I'd probably build brick ones)

And included ME supplying the electricity to the gate.

[Maersk]

Looks like a good price to me, I supply and install these for a living but I am London based. Make sure you get a proper force test and risk assessment as per the regs or you will be in trouble if it hits anyone or anything. Feel free to pm me with your number if you want any advise cheers Steve

[anonymous-user]

I've just commissioned sliding gates for my self-build. With an extra 20m of matching custom designed railings and wireless intercom system I'm paying around £6500 for a complete solution with installation.

[VEX]

Gary, didn't realise it was wireless when we chatted about it.

If you can, avoid wireless, expensive and un-reliable from my experience of Diatel / Daitel.

If it is to late for cables then far enough, but if you can, go wired.

V.

[V8RX7]

Thanks

So does everyone agree on the principal of a slider with a lower rail being the best for reliability / security ?

I prefer the look of openers but I'm told that unless you pay a fortune they can by forced open quite easily

[anonymous-user]

VEX said:

Gary, didn't realise it was wireless when we chatted about it.

If you can, avoid wireless, expensive and un-reliable from my experience of Diatel / Daitel.

If it is to late for cables then far enough, but if you can, go wired.

V.

Should have been clearer - I have both wired to the front of the house and a wireless handset for when I'm in the back of the house or garden!

[netherfield]

These have Ditec openers fitted, there is no way of forcing them open.

Mounted on 200mm square steel post and the clad with stone.

[RedLeicester]

V8RX7 said:

Thanks

So does everyone agree on the principal of a slider with a lower rail being the best for reliability / security ?

I prefer the look of openers but I'm told that unless you pay a fortune they can by forced open quite easily

In general yes - our old gates were like the ones you're proposing and on what was (at the time) very expensive hydraulic rams which were forever failing, and were an utter pig to release when the power went down, I'd often have to lean my full weight on them, no way wife could ever do it. In our current house we have a larger opening, but one solid sliding gate and it's been practically unstoppable despite rain, high winds and an awful lot of snow. When the power goes out a simple turn of a key disengages the motor and the gate is so well balanced even the kids can roll it back.

As for ultimate security, not a clue. We have brick walls either side of the steel/brick piers into which the gate runs, and it passes through a steel arch at either end, so the only way through would be to pass through the gate itself... not exactly going to happen.

[V8RX7]

Thanks for all the replies

I'm aware you could probably ram a car through any of them, I just don't want a couple of guys to be able to lean on them to get in.

My local fabricator hot galvanizes his - which seems sensible or are the cheaper powdercoated ones up to the job ?

[Watcha]

Where are you based? I know a good gate man that we have used a few times (big slider, and swing gates) based in the midlands.

Does a great job at sensible prices.

[anonymous-user]

My understanding is you get a smoother finish with powder coating.

[V8RX7]

Watcha said:

Where are you based?

House is near Kenilworth (Coventry / Warwick)

[Watcha]

V8RX7 said:

Watcha said:

Where are you based?

House is near Kenilworth (Coventry / Warwick)

In that case, try Midland Control Systems, ask for Mike.

As for finish, I would never touch just powder coat. Its a swine to touch up and has no anti-corrosion quality. It will just chalk, bubble and flake after 5-7 years. I would always go with a galv then epoxy paint. So long as the Galv is prepared properly before painting (i.e T-washed) it will last for 40 years.

[anonymous-user]

Watcha said:

V8RX7 said:

Watcha said:

Where are you based?

House is near Kenilworth (Coventry / Warwick)

In that case, try Midland Control Systems, ask for Mike.

As for finish, I would never touch just powder coat. Its a swine to touch up and has no anti-corrosion quality. It will just chalk, bubble and flake after 5-7 years. I would always go with a galv then epoxy paint. So long as the Galv is prepared properly before painting (i.e T-washed) it will last for 40 years.

Would you not normally do a zinc coating (bath?) before powder coating to provide anti-corrosion?

Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 27th February 10:26

[V8RX7]

Watcha said:

In that case, try Midland Control Systems, ask for Mike.

As for finish, I would never touch just powder coat. Its a swine to touch up and has no anti-corrosion quality. It will just chalk, bubble and flake after 5-7 years. I would always go with a galv then epoxy paint. So long as the Galv is prepared properly before painting (i.e T-washed) it will last for 40 years.

Thanks

Great, that's what I thought.

[NorthDave]

RedLeicester said:

In general yes - our old gates were like the ones you're proposing and on what was (at the time) very expensive hydraulic rams which were forever failing, and were an utter pig to release when the power went down, I'd often have to lean my full weight on them, no way wife could ever do it. In our current house we have a larger opening, but one solid sliding gate and it's been practically unstoppable despite rain, high winds and an awful lot of snow. When the power goes out a simple turn of a key disengages the motor and the gate is so well balanced even the kids can roll it back.

I'd always go sliding over an opening pair. Seems much more secure and the operation almost always looks neater.

[Watcha]

garyhun said:

Watcha said:

V8RX7 said:

Watcha said:

Where are you based?

House is near Kenilworth (Coventry / Warwick)

In that case, try Midland Control Systems, ask for Mike.

As for finish, I would never touch just powder coat. Its a swine to touch up and has no anti-corrosion quality. It will just chalk, bubble and flake after 5-7 years. I would always go with a galv then epoxy paint. So long as the Galv is prepared properly before painting (i.e T-washed) it will last for 40 years.

Would you not normally do a zinc coating (bath?) before powder coating to provide anti-corrosion?

Edited by garyhun on Thursday 27th February 10:26

Yes normally, however this is only usually 20 microns thick and offers no real long term protection, especially if it gets chipped or damaged.

Yes powder coat often looks much better when first completed but come back in 10 years time and take another comparison and I guarantee you the wet paint system will still look presentable.
Also in terms of maintenance, once the powder starts to bubble, you're in a whole world of PITA. Wet paint, just rub down and slap another coat of paint on.

Trust me, I don't know much, but anti-corrosion is something I know a little about