Wood work top sealing conundrum

[blueST]

Ive bought a cheap Ikea birch kitchen work top. It appears to ready treated with oil, and a small test has proved that silicone won't stick to it. So, how do I go about sealing the joint to the wall and where it butts up to he sink?

[astroarcadia]

Different silicone.

[blueST]

Errr.. Any recommendation?

[agent006]

astroarcadia said:

Different silicone.

Helpful. Care to elaborate?

[Fastpedeller]

How about a liberal coating of even more oil, and then some wood beading similarly prepared and nailed to the wall at the junction..... Guess you'll say the wall is tiled

[blueST]

Fastpedeller said:

How about a liberal coating of even more oil, and then some wood beading similarly prepared and nailed to the wall at the junction..... Guess you'll say the wall is tiled

Wall isn't tiled, so that's an option. Don't think it would be any good where it butts the ceramic sink though.

[69 coupe]

Bath seal http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/230226 & some tape maybe http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/230219

Or try another sealant, maybe a sanitary sealant rather than a silicon sealant,

I've used a Polysulphide Sealant http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p52048 for sealing boxed in mdf in bathroom, it allows it to be painted which most sealants can't, it is really for boat & external waterproofing, the problem with it is it doesn't go flexable/hard for quite a while it needs damp/ water to start curing.

or worktop joint sealant http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants...

Personally i'd go with a sanitary sealant due to it different composition to silicon. Oh and get some http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yato-Silicone-Sealant-Sp... they are excellent watch a youtube to see in action. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yato-Silicone-Sealant-Sp...

Just found this on the bay, sealing strip. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Packs-of-bath-wall-f...

Edited by 69 coupe on Tuesday 4th March 22:04

[shirt]

sand where you need to seal and buy more oil to apply afterwards.

[Spudler]

No need to fk about just use a sanitary sealant, simple.

[russ_a]

Don't use oil use http://www.sadolin.co.uk/products/sadolin-pv67-hea...

[blueST]

shirt said:

sand where you need to seal and buy more oil to apply afterwards.

That might be the best option, but will depend how far the oil has soaked in. I'll do a test rub later.

[Rosscow]

russ_a said:

Don't use oil use http://www.sadolin.co.uk/products/sadolin-pv67-hea...

This x 100

Used this extensively in the past, including my own oak worktops at home.

Go for the matt version.

Great stuff.

Otherwise, rub down where you need to seal and then re-oil afterwards.

[Wozy68]

Rosscow said:

russ_a said:

Don't use oil use http://www.sadolin.co.uk/products/sadolin-pv67-hea...

This x 100

Used this extensively in the past, including my own oak worktops at home.

Go for the matt version.

Great stuff.

Otherwise, rub down where you need to seal and then re-oil afterwards.

Pre-oiled worktops? Blimey, what will Ikea think of next.

[paulrockliffe]

I'm fitting some oak worktops shortly. What's the best way to prepare, treat and look after them?

[TonyHetherington]

Interesting thread - I'm just about to seal upstands to my walnut worktop.

The company I bought them from (ace local company called Norolk Oak) said just use a lot of oil in the gap between them, rather than silicone or anything like that.

[dbfan]

I'm in the middle of oiling my oak worktops (I'm taking time out for some fresh air!) and was told that the mating ends and backs should be sealed with Cascamite before installation. Also, as well as sealing the joints, an expansion (or shrinkage) gap is needed between the worktops and walls, sealed with a flexible sealer rather than silicone, which goes hard. Mine need to be able to expand in summer - there's a Rayburn in winter that shrinks wood like mad!

[Rosscow]

dbfan said:

I'm in the middle of oiling my oak worktops (I'm taking time out for some fresh air!) and was told that the mating ends and backs should be sealed with Cascamite before installation. Also, as well as sealing the joints, an expansion (or shrinkage) gap is needed between the worktops and walls, sealed with a flexible sealer rather than silicone, which goes hard. Mine need to be able to expand in summer - there's a Rayburn in winter that shrinks wood like mad!

Cascamite seems a bit OTT to me, and normally you'd leave a gap which is then covered by your tiling anyway?

[loughran]

TonyHetherington said:

Interesting thread - I'm just about to seal upstands to my walnut worktop.

The company I bought them from (ace local company called Norolk Oak) said just use a lot of oil in the gap between them, rather than silicone or anything like that.

Which gap are we talking about here ?

[Neil - YVM]

blueST said:

Ive bought a cheap Ikea birch kitchen work top. It appears to ready treated with oil, and a small test has proved that silicone won't stick to it. So, how do I go about sealing the joint to the wall and where it butts up to he sink?

Let the work top dry for a few days prior to sealing the joins to tile and work top. Using a good quality sanitary sealant such as Dow Corning 785 should work just fine.

[TonyHetherington]

loughran said:

Which gap are we talking about here ?

Nothing between the worktop and the wall (there's an expansion gap there), but between the worktop and the bottom of the upstand