Stopping water hammer... how to?

Stopping water hammer... how to?

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Du1point8

Original Poster:

21,607 posts

192 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Lovely side affect of the massive burst mains in SW London a few weeks ago and losing all water pressure is that the system seems to have now developed a water hammer when the toilet is flushed.

I want rid of it before any damaged is caused.

The hammer is subdued if the cold tap is left running in the bathroom when the toilet is flushed.

Its victorian flat... toilet has an enclosed cistern (really do not want to take it apart again for the 2nd time in 6 months) and the plumbing is probably from the 80/90s.

Anyone think of what I can do?

Heard people talk of of putting an arrester in there, but where? can this be placed near the boiler or will it need to be near the toilet? Will it actually solve it?

Also it could be the toilet flush valve clogged with sand/grit from the recent mains blow out.

Advice would be grateful.

crankedup

25,764 posts

243 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
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Before anything else I would turn down the water pressure from the stopcock, might be lucky and have an easy fix.

Du1point8

Original Poster:

21,607 posts

192 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Thing is I dont think we have high pressure according to the boiler pressure gague.

Will double check the OH is not playing with the fking boiler again since I banned her from touching it last time.

rich83

14,224 posts

138 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Boiler pressure is not really a gauge of main pressure.

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

199 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Closing the stop cock will not reduce the pressure, just reduce the flow rate.

The most likely cause is the wc filling valve, so either change / clean it. or if there is a ball valve servicing it, reducing the flow to it may stop the problem. Filling valves are cheap, so I would just replace.

You could fit an arrester, but almost certainly the valve is the cause.

Du1point8

Original Poster:

21,607 posts

192 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Neil - YVM said:
Closing the stop cock will not reduce the pressure, just reduce the flow rate.

The most likely cause is the wc filling valve, so either change / clean it. or if there is a ball valve servicing it, reducing the flow to it may stop the problem. Filling valves are cheap, so I would just replace.

You could fit an arrester, but almost certainly the valve is the cause.
Is it a difficult job? Or should I just stump up for a plumber to come round and fix the thing with a £20 kit?

Being the cistern is an enclosed one in a wall? It does have silicon sealant cut out sections at my request (last one grouted everything in making it a bastid to get off)...

What kind of ball park figure would I be looking at to get this done?

RC1

4,097 posts

219 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
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would it not be worth purging the air by doing something like this... no cost option

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-quiet...

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

199 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Du1point8 said:
Neil - YVM said:
Closing the stop cock will not reduce the pressure, just reduce the flow rate.

The most likely cause is the wc filling valve, so either change / clean it. or if there is a ball valve servicing it, reducing the flow to it may stop the problem. Filling valves are cheap, so I would just replace.

You could fit an arrester, but almost certainly the valve is the cause.
Is it a difficult job? Or should I just stump up for a plumber to come round and fix the thing with a £20 kit?

Being the cistern is an enclosed one in a wall? It does have silicon sealant cut out sections at my request (last one grouted everything in making it a bastid to get off)...

What kind of ball park figure would I be looking at to get this done?
If access to the cistern is fairly straight forward then it isn't a difficult job. For a plumber probably between £45 and £60.

dbfan

183 posts

123 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
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Reducing the flow rate may help the banging too (it certainly improved things with our mains pressure taps (two sinks) and header tank.

If I remember correctly, putting a restriction in a pipe will reduce the pressure if fluid is flowing in an open system (eg when the toilet valve is open). This is how most flow meters used to work - put an orifice plate in the pipeline and a "DP cell" is connected to each side. "DP" meaning Differential Pressure". Mind you, they were a PITA as the area of the hole is part of the calculation to convert the pressure difference to flow rate and that means a square root is in the calculations!

McWigglebum4th

32,414 posts

204 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Is there a plumbing fitting with a screwhead in the middle going to the bog?

As this is a ball valve which could be tweaked to reduced flow

Vaud

50,467 posts

155 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Du1point8 said:
Thing is I dont think we have high pressure according to the boiler pressure gague.

Will double check the OH is not playing with the fking boiler again since I banned her from touching it last time.
If your boiler is a closed system then ignore that gauge, that's just the system pressure...

Spudler

3,985 posts

196 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
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Neil - YVM said:
t almost certainly the valve is the cause.
First item I'd replace.

Du1point8

Original Poster:

21,607 posts

192 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
McWigglebum4th said:
Is there a plumbing fitting with a screwhead in the middle going to the bog?

As this is a ball valve which could be tweaked to reduced flow
Carpet knife comes out tonight to start freeing the tiles to have a look before I lose patience with it and get the plumber out when I get back off holiday.

g7jtk

1,756 posts

154 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
Fit a new ball valve washer and lubricate the internal parts with silicone grease. Before you wst time nd money on anything else.

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

199 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
quotequote all
g7jtk said:
Fit a new ball valve washer and lubricate the internal parts with silicone grease. Before you wst time nd money on anything else.
A concealed cistern is unlikely to have a ball valve. Most likely a 'Torbec' type valve.

Shaolin

2,955 posts

189 months

Wednesday 16th April 2014
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Du1point8 said:
Is it a difficult job?
No, surprisingly easy and far less hassle than booking and arranging for someone to come and do it for you - assuming you are able to identify the working end of a spanner.

Du1point8

Original Poster:

21,607 posts

192 months

Thursday 17th April 2014
quotequote all
Shaolin said:
Du1point8 said:
Is it a difficult job?
No, surprisingly easy and far less hassle than booking and arranging for someone to come and do it for you - assuming you are able to identify the working end of a spanner.
Going to review the install on the bank holiday monday and forget touching it until then as Im away as of tomorrow and dont need to break it just before I go.

g7jtk

1,756 posts

154 months

Friday 18th April 2014
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But there will be a float valve of some kind that could be lubricated with silicone spray.

Or buy a new valve.

apusmelba

56 posts

241 months

Saturday 19th April 2014
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My sympathy for a totally baffling situation.

Had the same problem and after endless research proved fruitless eventualy found it was due to the

ceramic disc valves in the kitchen mixer tap.

Took the cassettes apart to clean and refixed with coating of petroleum jelly and hammer stopped.

No idea why this should occur ,and hope it works for you.

regards

g7jtk

1,756 posts

154 months

Saturday 19th April 2014
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Because the grease provides a cushion to the parts that we're moving and creating the noise.