Cheap electric planers - are they good?
Discussion
every year i need to trim my doors... now ive previously gotten out the surform plane for a rough and ready finish but ive been told by my joiner that i need to get an electric planer...
not wanting to spend too much on it... would something like this be up for the job of planing my doors on the latch side???
would i be able to do them in situ with the door open or is it better on a pair of trestles???
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-pho1-500w-1-5-x-82...
not wanting to spend too much on it... would something like this be up for the job of planing my doors on the latch side???
would i be able to do them in situ with the door open or is it better on a pair of trestles???
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-pho1-500w-1-5-x-82...
That will fine. The main thing is to ensure the blades are sharp and correctly set (which they should be from new anyway).
However you'll have to take the doors off as you can't plane into a dead end. Electric planers can take a lot off quickly so take it carefully.
NB If planing across the grain, as you may at the top and bottom, never let the plane run off the end - approach it from both sides or the grain can/will break out.
However you'll have to take the doors off as you can't plane into a dead end. Electric planers can take a lot off quickly so take it carefully.
NB If planing across the grain, as you may at the top and bottom, never let the plane run off the end - approach it from both sides or the grain can/will break out.
Edited by Simpo Two on Tuesday 8th July 14:14
Sounds like you have subsidence!
That plane will be fine. If you are just planing part of the door, say from a foot up from the floor, then you can just wedge it to stop it moving and do it in situ. If you need to do the whole length, then take them off.
If they are heavily painted, be sure to look for any old lock/latches/screws etc that might be covered up.
That plane will be fine. If you are just planing part of the door, say from a foot up from the floor, then you can just wedge it to stop it moving and do it in situ. If you need to do the whole length, then take them off.
If they are heavily painted, be sure to look for any old lock/latches/screws etc that might be covered up.
ok great then sounds like an investment worth making.... ive over egged the extent of the problem but we are on a gradient on 2 planes and our neighbour has the same issue...
i can invent a multitude of uses for this new tool... i can make some pointless shelves just for the sake of getting the old chamfer action going.... nice
i can invent a multitude of uses for this new tool... i can make some pointless shelves just for the sake of getting the old chamfer action going.... nice
You'll want a router for your chamfers. Have a look at my build thread for a chamfered bathroom cabinet worktop, you won't get close to that with a plane. More tools is always the way to go.
I have a Black and Decker from B&Q, £60,70 or so, has been great. If I was going to pay more it would only be for a second hand thicknesser.
I have a Black and Decker from B&Q, £60,70 or so, has been great. If I was going to pay more it would only be for a second hand thicknesser.
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