Yellow Barlou Decking Timber. Worth the Extra?
Discussion
Balau. Not barlou! Sorry...
I'm having a large-ish decking area constructed at home next week and my builder wants to know if we wish to order Yellow Balau decking timber rather than a cheaper hardwood.
I'm looking at a cost increase of £1,400 for the balau. I've seen pictures and know it's supposed to be exceptionally long-lasting, but would appreciate any first-hand opinions from anyone here.
I'm having a large-ish decking area constructed at home next week and my builder wants to know if we wish to order Yellow Balau decking timber rather than a cheaper hardwood.
I'm looking at a cost increase of £1,400 for the balau. I've seen pictures and know it's supposed to be exceptionally long-lasting, but would appreciate any first-hand opinions from anyone here.
I've recently finished building a deck with Yellow Balau. I really wanted to use Ipe, but that was an extra £1,500 more than Balau and I just couldn't justify the cost. Balau is very dense and hard wearing but still pretty easy to work with and fix. Pic below is from just before I finished it off. Since it's been down a couple of months some of the boards have cupped and moved a little, but I think you will get that with any timber and I understand that Balau is a lot more stable than some hardwoods. I sanded and oiled all four sides of my boards with Cutek CD50 before I fixed them down - a pig of a job but worthwhile to prevent too much moisture ingress.
That's great! Thanks!
I've looked into Ipe and Iroko and have seen the prices. I know Ipe is particularly resistant to algae and retaining grip, which is an advantage.
I've more-or-less made my mind up to go with balau. Your pics look fantastic. I've seen pictures from my builder's previous work with yellow balau and they're very convincing.
OK, another question.... Reeded or smooth? I'm favouring smooth.
Floor still open for opinions, please.
I've looked into Ipe and Iroko and have seen the prices. I know Ipe is particularly resistant to algae and retaining grip, which is an advantage.
I've more-or-less made my mind up to go with balau. Your pics look fantastic. I've seen pictures from my builder's previous work with yellow balau and they're very convincing.
OK, another question.... Reeded or smooth? I'm favouring smooth.
Floor still open for opinions, please.
Smooth is the way to go. Reeded just makes the whole thing look like stained softwood IMHO, whereas smooth looks much higher end. Reeded boards also retain standing water and associated gunk build-up in the channels and are therefore harder to keep clean and looking nice. Updated pic of my deck finished - the plants on the curve will in time grow up over the edge to soften the line.
When my (smooth) deck gets soaked I just pop out with a big squeegy I got from a swimming pool supplies shop and it's clean and clear of standing water in a 5 minutes. Both types of boards will get slippy if you allow algae to build up on the surface, but a couple of good cleans a year and application of Algon or similar and it should stay as good as new.
One word of warning - the lovely warm colour will bleach out quite quickly and you'll end up with a grey deck in time. Like any timber outside, it's a lot of (ultimately fruitless) work to keep Balau the same colour as when new. Personally no problem for me as I like a grey deck and so long as you keep it clean it still looks nice.
How are you builders intending to fix the boards? Hidden fixings or screw through face?
When my (smooth) deck gets soaked I just pop out with a big squeegy I got from a swimming pool supplies shop and it's clean and clear of standing water in a 5 minutes. Both types of boards will get slippy if you allow algae to build up on the surface, but a couple of good cleans a year and application of Algon or similar and it should stay as good as new.
One word of warning - the lovely warm colour will bleach out quite quickly and you'll end up with a grey deck in time. Like any timber outside, it's a lot of (ultimately fruitless) work to keep Balau the same colour as when new. Personally no problem for me as I like a grey deck and so long as you keep it clean it still looks nice.
How are you builders intending to fix the boards? Hidden fixings or screw through face?
They've said stainless screws.
Looking at yours, I notice (or, rather I don't..) hidden fixings. I like that a lot.
Yes, the smooth look for the reasons you've cited are uppermost in my mind. I also have a 3 year-old daughter and I can see 'stuff' getting in the reeded grooves if it was built that way.
Yours looks even better from above. Mine won't be seen like that as we're having a part-pergola / part clay tiled roof over ours so that it can be used almost year-round.
Looking at yours, I notice (or, rather I don't..) hidden fixings. I like that a lot.
Yes, the smooth look for the reasons you've cited are uppermost in my mind. I also have a 3 year-old daughter and I can see 'stuff' getting in the reeded grooves if it was built that way.
Yours looks even better from above. Mine won't be seen like that as we're having a part-pergola / part clay tiled roof over ours so that it can be used almost year-round.
Yes you will need to use stainless and not mild steel as the tannin in the wood can react with mild steel and turn the area around the screw head black. I fixed mine with stainless trim-head screws and a jig system I got from the USA which sets the screws so they go in at 45degrees through the side face of the board. You can still see small holes if you look closely from above, but you get the benefit of proper mechanical fixing through the board without hundreds of visible screws on the faces. I did over 2,000 fixings this way to secure the boards and pleased with the results (although my back was a wreck for a few weeks afterwards).
If yours is mostly covered then you stand a much better chance of retaining the colour with some regular maintenance. Good luck!
If yours is mostly covered then you stand a much better chance of retaining the colour with some regular maintenance. Good luck!
blade runner said:
a jig system I got from the USA which sets the screws so they go in at 45degrees through the side face of the board.
I presume this is the Camo Marksman system? I don't suppose you still have it and if so are willing to sell it? I'm restoring some old cedar decking and this system looks really simple and clean.Thanks for your comments, chaps.
Ordered the yellow balau last night.
Strangely excited by it all. The decking, as explained before, will be mostly covered with red 'aged' clay tiles and illuminated at night by multi-colour LED's.
I've plenty of Liberon clear decking oil to go on it. Again, I'm feeling quite excited about doing that job.
Ordered the yellow balau last night.
Strangely excited by it all. The decking, as explained before, will be mostly covered with red 'aged' clay tiles and illuminated at night by multi-colour LED's.
I've plenty of Liberon clear decking oil to go on it. Again, I'm feeling quite excited about doing that job.
natcot said:
I presume this is the Camo Marksman system? I don't suppose you still have it and if so are willing to sell it? I'm restoring some old cedar decking and this system looks really simple and clean.
Yes I got the Camo Marksman Pro tool and stainless screws from the USA. Even with import duties, it was still half the price of buying in the UK. It's quite a neat system and easy to use once you get going. I'd recommend practicing on a few off-cuts before you start as there is a bit of technique required to ensure it fixes properly without splitting the boards. As I was using Balau, I pre-drilled all the holes but with Cedar you shouldn't need to do this.I rather wanted to keep hold of the tool in case I need to replace any damaged boards at a later date, but wouldn't mind loaning it out if you cover postage there and back? PM me if interested.
Thread resurrection - Looking at some videos of that Camo Marksman tool on YouTube the chaps don't pre-drill any holes yet with yellow balau being hardwood I would have thought you need to pre-drill so did you manage to put the screws straight through the yellow balau without drilling?
Another thread resurrection 
Blade Runner, how is the Balau deck holding up? I'm currently deciding wether to go for Balau or stump up the extra for IPE.
Also do you mind sharing where you got the Camo from in the US. And which screw you went for (assume you went for 60mm, but stainless or their pro-tek)?
Thanks
Blade Runner, how is the Balau deck holding up? I'm currently deciding wether to go for Balau or stump up the extra for IPE.
Also do you mind sharing where you got the Camo from in the US. And which screw you went for (assume you went for 60mm, but stainless or their pro-tek)?
Thanks
My balau deck is holding up fine so far. All greyed off now which I prefer. No great movement in the boards - some have cupped or bowed a bit, but gaps between are still good and it still feels and looks nice and flat. I added a small section of deck to the side last Autumn when we laid new paving, so it's all the same level now from the house to the garage - see picture below which also shows the colour difference quite well. It currently all needs a going over with some algae killer and then a good clean as it's fairly dirty just now (bloody pigeons crapping on it doesn't help 
).
After a year I did spot a few small splits in the sides of the boards around some of the hidden fixings, but just removed the offending Camo screws, glued the split back together with gorilla glue and then face fixed back down with normal stainless screws and plugged the hole. Not seen any more crop up since then so I think it's all stabilised now.
I got the Camo tool and screws from www.manasquanfasteners.com in the US as it was the cheapest I could track down at the time. I used the 1-7/8" CAMO Fasteners (316SS) in stainless steel and these were fine. Was worried that the SS versions might be a bit brittle compared to normal steel, but they were excellent and you don't need to torque them up massively anway.
).After a year I did spot a few small splits in the sides of the boards around some of the hidden fixings, but just removed the offending Camo screws, glued the split back together with gorilla glue and then face fixed back down with normal stainless screws and plugged the hole. Not seen any more crop up since then so I think it's all stabilised now.
I got the Camo tool and screws from www.manasquanfasteners.com in the US as it was the cheapest I could track down at the time. I used the 1-7/8" CAMO Fasteners (316SS) in stainless steel and these were fine. Was worried that the SS versions might be a bit brittle compared to normal steel, but they were excellent and you don't need to torque them up massively anway.
Grandad Gaz said:
Looks good
What's it like in the wet? Does it get slippery?
As long as you keep on top of the algae and general accumulation of dirt then it's not too bad. Wet wood itself isn't particularly slippy - it's the stuff on the surface that's the problem, so keep on top of this and it's fine. Certainly no worse that the honed limestone slabs I just laid next to it for the patio.What's it like in the wet? Does it get slippery?
blade runner said:
Grandad Gaz said:
Looks good
What's it like in the wet? Does it get slippery?
As long as you keep on top of the algae and general accumulation of dirt then it's not too bad. Wet wood itself isn't particularly slippy - it's the stuff on the surface that's the problem, so keep on top of this and it's fine. Certainly no worse that the honed limestone slabs I just laid next to it for the patio.What's it like in the wet? Does it get slippery?
Just ripped mine up after 10 years. The barlou planks were as good as new. No rot whatsoever and cleaned up beautifully. The high pressure treated timber framework was rotten.
Replaced this with oak and refitted the barlou. Much easier if you have two rechargeable drills: one for the drilling and one for the screws.
So to answer your question yes it's definitely worth paying the extra. Well if you intend to stay that is!
Replaced this with oak and refitted the barlou. Much easier if you have two rechargeable drills: one for the drilling and one for the screws.
So to answer your question yes it's definitely worth paying the extra. Well if you intend to stay that is!
Hi,
I have just read this post with interest as I have just purchased 40m2 of Yellow Balau decking which I will be installing in a week or so. I have a question regarding the oil you used. You mentioned you used cutex 50 oil on the wood. The look I am wanting is the grey faded out wood that will come once the decking is weathered, so I am wondering if oiling it just extends they time it take to fade? Or do you think the oil serves another purpose? eg, reduces rot.
Also, what product did you use to seal any cut ends.
Thanks
Dean
I have just read this post with interest as I have just purchased 40m2 of Yellow Balau decking which I will be installing in a week or so. I have a question regarding the oil you used. You mentioned you used cutex 50 oil on the wood. The look I am wanting is the grey faded out wood that will come once the decking is weathered, so I am wondering if oiling it just extends they time it take to fade? Or do you think the oil serves another purpose? eg, reduces rot.
Also, what product did you use to seal any cut ends.
Thanks
Dean
A coat of Seasonite followed by a coat of transparent Textrol should give you, eventually, the look you want, have a look here, though this is where you may have sourced your balau Silva timber. I believe the more pigment a treatment has the greater the uv protection, which is what turns the timber grey, which not everyone wants. You can buy a dedicated end grain sealer, Google ‘Ensele’, but it’s mainly used for pressure treated softwood and has a green tinge to it may may look a bit crap if the cut ends are visible.
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