Rising damp- how to treat?

Author
Discussion

TA14

12,722 posts

258 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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more info needed. Ht on wall, level outside, wall construction, drainage, plumbing etc.

Boosted LS1

21,183 posts

260 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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If it's at floor level it's most likely rising damp but make sure it's not penetrating damp from outside. I've recently injected Dryzone into the morter on a wall of mine. It seems to have worked and was simple to do. I bought it from a vendor on Ebay.

Yazar

1,476 posts

120 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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hora said:
just like a furry white powder ontop of the matt-paint in a triangle/about 1foot high.
Its salt deposit, the term for it seems to be a tide mark.

I have the same to sort out but on an internal wall, dryzone was what I was going to try.

wolfracesonic

6,973 posts

127 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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It sounds like efflorescence, (it's a word, honest) the white powder usually associated with damp, either rising or penetrating, which is what you will have to determine. These will sort out any rising damp and are more user friendly than the cream Dry rods Getting rid of the salty powder is more tricky and usually involves re-plastering with something like this Renovating plaster and all the mess that goes with it. As said, pics inside and outside near the affected area would help.

paulrockliffe

15,668 posts

227 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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I think a lot of rising damp is actually penetrating damp combined with a bridged cavity. The cavity on my house has been blocked with bits of mortar and brick for the first metre, it's a relatively easy fix if you don't mind a bit of graft.

Boosted LS1

21,183 posts

260 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
quotequote all
wolfracesonic said:
It sounds like efflorescence, (it's a word, honest) the white powder usually associated with damp, either rising or penetrating, which is what you will have to determine. These will sort out any rising damp and are more user friendly than the cream Dry rods Getting rid of the salty powder is more tricky and usually involves re-plastering with something like this Renovating plaster and all the mess that goes with it. As said, pics inside and outside near the affected area would help.
The dryzone people have a liquid that you can brush onto the wall to get rid of the salts. I think it allows one way breathing. They also have a dot and dab solution so that you can fit plasterboard on the same day as the treatments. I've not ordered ityet because they never answer the telephone, fkwits, lol.

rich12

3,462 posts

154 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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We've got rising damp in the corner of our living room (water is getting in between the wall connecting us and our neighbour. We are getting it done in a weeks time.

Annoyingly it is £1500 worth of work but that seems to be the best price for a decent job.

Mattt

16,661 posts

218 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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paulrockliffe said:
I think a lot of rising damp is actually penetrating damp combined with a bridged cavity. The cavity on my house has been blocked with bits of mortar and brick for the first metre, it's a relatively easy fix if you don't mind a bit of graft.
Rising damp product salesmen unsurprisingly find a lot of rising damp...

paulrockliffe

15,668 posts

227 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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Mattt said:
paulrockliffe said:
I think a lot of rising damp is actually penetrating damp combined with a bridged cavity. The cavity on my house has been blocked with bits of mortar and brick for the first metre, it's a relatively easy fix if you don't mind a bit of graft.
Rising damp product salesmen unsurprisingly find a lot of rising damp...
I'm pretty sure the injected chemical DPC in the outer skin isn't going to do much with 1m of crap in the cavity. Wonder how much that cost.

rovermorris999

5,199 posts

189 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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Rising damp is very rare in the real world as opposed to the world of damp cure salesmen with their moisture meters. This guy talks sense
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/property/propertyadvice...

Have a look through the articles, he's done several on 'rising' damp.

Boosted LS1

21,183 posts

260 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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paulrockliffe said:
I'm pretty sure the injected chemical DPC in the outer skin isn't going to do much with 1m of crap in the cavity. Wonder how much that cost.
How do you know what's in the cavity and what material is it?

paulrockliffe

15,668 posts

227 months

Thursday 27th November 2014
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Because I'm working my way along the wall, removing every 4th brick and clearing it out at the rate of about one wheelbarrow full every metre.

The bottom is full of set lime mortar that has fallen in when the wall was built, fortunately this can be broken up with a lot of effort. On top of this there's lots of dust and dirt that appears to have disintegrated from the internal pointing over time. And interspersed amongst this and jammed at various points in the wall are bits of brick.

It's a job that's taking ages as after going at it for an entire day my hands need a couple of weeks to recover before going again.

The injected DPC was done at some point, I don't know when as it predates me living here. What's interesting is that it's a cavity wall, only the outer leaf is injected and the damp is on the inner leaf. So either the company thought it was a solid wall, but didn't drill far enough into it, or they thought the damp was rising on the outer leaf and then bridging a full cavity, but didn't clear the cavity. Or they were just taking the piss.

moles

1,794 posts

244 months

Friday 28th November 2014
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How old is your house?, our 1800's house has the cavity full all the way up to the upstairs floor as i took a brick out and dry dirt/sand poured out.

paulrockliffe

15,668 posts

227 months

Friday 28th November 2014
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moles said:
How old is your house?, our 1800's house has the cavity full all the way up to the upstairs floor as i took a brick out and dry dirt/sand poured out.
Mine is 1906. I've been told repeatedly on here that cavity walls didn't exist then, so you definitely can't have a cavity smile

Are you sure it's full all the way up? Do you have a row of half bricks anywhere? I have one at first floor level, these are bricks that span the cavity and are also trapping another load of muck, but there's clear space between them.

FlipFlopGriff

7,144 posts

247 months

Friday 28th November 2014
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Looks like the stones could be contributing. There looks like there is a membrane below the gravel so try pulling the stones away so the membrane is below the air brick all the way along that picture. Clean the air brick from outside. Can't see airbrick inside so has it been covered? Cold air and water coming through onto the internal wall meeting warm brick and causing more water. Try removing some plaster to uncover the air brick.
Is it gypsum plaster and modern paint? Try lime and breathable paint which will also help.
FFG

essayer

9,056 posts

194 months

Friday 28th November 2014
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moles said:
How old is your house?, our 1800's house has the cavity full all the way up to the upstairs floor as i took a brick out and dry dirt/sand poured out.
Are you sure that's not the mortar from your second row of bricks in a non-cavity wall? hehe

Certainly our 1890 house doesn't have a cavity except for the 70's extension