Design my extension & hopefully build thread with updates!

Design my extension & hopefully build thread with updates!

Author
Discussion

5potTurbo

12,548 posts

169 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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For the MDF, car body filler's a good one.

Dave_ST220

10,296 posts

206 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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Car body filler works well, smells nice when mixing too smile Get a decent roller & brushes...

Legend83

9,986 posts

223 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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We've just finished painting every skirting board, every new door plus the new pine staircase - I wish I had paid someone to do it!

Good luck!

Craikeybaby

10,417 posts

226 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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For wood we just use one coat of Johnstones Aqua Undercoat followed by two coats of Johnstones Aqua Gloss, no need for primer on wood.

Legend83 said:
We've just finished painting every skirting board, every new door plus the new pine staircase - I wish I had paid someone to do it!

Good luck!
We're doing the doors and staircase now, will have all the door frames to do soon as we are on the hall, stairs and landing stage of the project. Not looking forward to it at all.

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

200 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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Use Gyproc Easy-fill rather than polyfilla.

So much nicer / easier to use.

mikeiow

5,385 posts

131 months

Tuesday 29th March 2016
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If you have the whole lot to do......why not tape off and cover up windows and sockets, & spray paint the lot!
Had a friend in the US in an apartment block where they did that when tnants changed....sounded like sense to me. Ceilings are the worst!!

Dave_ST220

10,296 posts

206 months

Wednesday 30th March 2016
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Quite a few new builds are sprayed, works with one colour and you then need to do all the "glossing". I wouldn't under estimate how long painting takes, 15ish 8 hour days to do a large detached house IMO. Much harder job than it looks IMO.

Dave_ST220

10,296 posts

206 months

Wednesday 30th March 2016
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Leave to pro's IMO, they can do a house in half a day I'm told!!

rednotdead

1,215 posts

227 months

Wednesday 30th March 2016
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Don't skimp on the roller head. Also use the paint buckets rather than trays. I went through all this a coupe of years ago and on new plaster had good results with a medium pile roller that was very well loaded with paint. Don't drag the paint too far, you'd be surprised how far it doesn't go! Good paint is a must too - none of your B&Q rubbish (although their Valspar white emulsion is quite good). Wrap your rollers overnight in a plastic bag, a good soaking of paint the next day and you're good to go.

Dave_ST220

10,296 posts

206 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
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My man used caulk around the door trims etc. On the skirting we used silicone, maybe not the best but wanted it waterproof. Only down side is it collects dust but it easily wipes off.

sak83

97 posts

190 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
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someone asked about caulk on here the other day, i would avoid the cheap stuff as it has a tendency to crack after a period of time. I know this from personal experience although i cant remember what i used in the end. It may have been painters mate

Craikeybaby

10,417 posts

226 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
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That's what we use, it is much better than the Homebase value one which I also tried.

sak83

97 posts

190 months

Thursday 31st March 2016
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A few pointers picked up from painting and decorating our house through various stages of renovation since we bought the place a couple of years ago...

For the mist coat it doesn't matter what emulsion you use, just as long as its suitably watered down to feed the plaster.
Regarding the emulsion for the walls we used little greene intelligent matt, although pricey it had a lot more coverage than the Dulux we used in one room which offset the cost somewhat but it also went on much easier only needing 2 coats and had a nicer uniform finish that is scrubable. On the ceilings we used glidden contract matt, which came in large 25l tubs

For a roller sleeve we used a medium pile pro dec microfibres which gave a nice finish but used to shed a few fibres occasionally. When searching online people recommend wooster quite a bit and they are available in wider sizes so I'd be tempted to use them next time.

On the trims and doors we used sikkens rubol satura bl paint with a selection of purdy and hamilton brushes. although the doors were painted with a roller and a brush as the water based paint dries quickly. Using a paint conditioner like floetrol helped loads keeping the wet edge open for longer

We painted our whole house after renovating and generally found it was worth spending a bit on quality brushes, rollers and paints to make the job easier and quicker. Also I think the painting and decorating is important to give you the best finish from any work carried out. It makes sense as the extra cost over budget options are small when compared to the labour cost saved. I found going to a paint merchant was more useful than going to the sheds and they had a better range of paints and equipment along with knowledgeable staff who can offer decent advice

IanA2

2,763 posts

163 months

Friday 1st April 2016
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I've had the same issues in the past, though not using Isopon, I got round it by wetting the knife, this allowed it to glide over smoothly and not rucking up/tearing the surface. Don't know if that helps.

IanA2

2,763 posts

163 months

Friday 1st April 2016
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Dip knife in alcohol....??? No idea really.

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

200 months

Thursday 14th April 2016
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We usually provide access from the adjacent unit, for ease of install + possible later maintenance.
So fit the sink and base unit, sort the waste, provision the water feed where accessible, fit tap to worktop before its fitted, use either long tails or preformed pipework into the std flexi tails. The connect up where accessible.
Use a false back or similar, so that the connections are not on show, dont want it looking DIY!


ali_kat

31,992 posts

222 months

Thursday 14th April 2016
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How far back are you mounting your Belfast?

Ours is sat in a unit with no back, I can reach underneath & get to the tap fixings to change a washer.

ali_kat

31,992 posts

222 months

Thursday 14th April 2016
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Hi! smile

Ours is mounted a bit like this, only the cabinet is lower so the worktop is over the top of the sink (if that makes sense?)


ali_kat

31,992 posts

222 months

Thursday 14th April 2016
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No, it has the dishwasher one side and a cupboard the other (and a door on the front).

Neil - YVM

1,310 posts

200 months

Thursday 14th April 2016
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If you cant get easy access from the side, then make the rear panel of the sink unit removable.

Its awkward, but you can then reach up from underneath to get to the retaining nut. ie to allow removal.