Z-Wave Home Automation
Discussion
My smart things works in the garage just fine. I had to put a device in the kitchen near the window but after that it worked ok.
I use a 240 outlet to turn on some LED lights in the garage when the door is opened. The door has a ST door sensor on it which turns on the 240 outlet.
You can also get mains extenders for mesh / z wave which don't actually do anything other than build a link in the chain.
HTH
I use a 240 outlet to turn on some LED lights in the garage when the door is opened. The door has a ST door sensor on it which turns on the 240 outlet.
You can also get mains extenders for mesh / z wave which don't actually do anything other than build a link in the chain.
HTH
Chaps, to contribute to this thread, I am automating some but not all functions in my home.
For example, I would like to use a Honeywell Evohome system, a lighting system, an alarm system and whole house audio (that’s pretty much it, to be honest). I already have Sonos gear, sothis is the audio system.
I am very happy to have each as a separate system, to be honest. I don’t need complex protocols such as if doorbell rings, cameras turn on, external lights go on, and home music system mutes. I know that some folk are concerned with this, but I am not.
The security system especially I want separate from everything else (or at least not using port forwarding for online control). The only thing that I would really like is for the house lights to turn on when the alarm goes – and the original lighting system I was looking at, LightwaveRF, may not be able to do this as it is not Z-Wave.
Any ideas?
Also, I am running plenty of data cable back from all rooms to a central location. Approximately 4 per room and 8 per room for data heavy areas (study, home cinema room, kitchen/diner, front reception). Any further thoughts in the context of automation? And perhaps more importantly, where do I need to put power - e.g. alarm panel. I want to avoid using wireless battery powered stuff as much as possible...
For example, I would like to use a Honeywell Evohome system, a lighting system, an alarm system and whole house audio (that’s pretty much it, to be honest). I already have Sonos gear, sothis is the audio system.
I am very happy to have each as a separate system, to be honest. I don’t need complex protocols such as if doorbell rings, cameras turn on, external lights go on, and home music system mutes. I know that some folk are concerned with this, but I am not.
The security system especially I want separate from everything else (or at least not using port forwarding for online control). The only thing that I would really like is for the house lights to turn on when the alarm goes – and the original lighting system I was looking at, LightwaveRF, may not be able to do this as it is not Z-Wave.
Any ideas?
Also, I am running plenty of data cable back from all rooms to a central location. Approximately 4 per room and 8 per room for data heavy areas (study, home cinema room, kitchen/diner, front reception). Any further thoughts in the context of automation? And perhaps more importantly, where do I need to put power - e.g. alarm panel. I want to avoid using wireless battery powered stuff as much as possible...
Battery lasts plenty long enough in most stuff these days. Look at SmartThings.
I have been running a small system now and its starting to grow slowly.
The only thing that I would mark it down on right now is it does sometimes do odd things, leaves lights on etc.
Only now and then maybe twice a month.
The rest of the time works perfect.
FWIW my first sensor went live a good 6 months ago and still showing 100% battery!
Reading around it seems 2-3 years is possible.
I have been running a small system now and its starting to grow slowly.
The only thing that I would mark it down on right now is it does sometimes do odd things, leaves lights on etc.
Only now and then maybe twice a month.
The rest of the time works perfect.
FWIW my first sensor went live a good 6 months ago and still showing 100% battery!
Reading around it seems 2-3 years is possible.
OK, I am beginning to think that the Fibaro Z-Wave kit is probably a better bet than Lightwave. The fact that it uses its own mesh network is a big one - if the Wi-Fi goes down, stuff still works. Anyone know what frequency that network is on? Main concern for me is a lot of stuff on the 2.4Ghz band - wifi/SOnos/Z-wave means potential interference and issues.
Are there any Z-wave dimmers apart from the ugly continental style square things? Advantage of the LightwaveRF kit is that it looks good. The dimmer needs to be trailing edge and trimmable, to deal with LEDs. They do a module, but I don't get how this works. Lights are no use whatsoever if you can only control them by app - rooms still need a physical light switch for convenience and operability by any person...
Is there any way to disable port forwarding from certain Z-Wave components e.g. security? Don't care if my lights are hackable from the internet - trade-off for me being able to turn them on with geofencing or manually from down the street on my way home. But I'm a bit more worried about someone hacking the alarm system and door locks.
Perhaps partial automation is the key here - stick with traditional alarm and door locks (both could still be controlled by physical fobs/codes). Z-Wave automate lights, heating, CCTV etc.
Are there any Z-wave dimmers apart from the ugly continental style square things? Advantage of the LightwaveRF kit is that it looks good. The dimmer needs to be trailing edge and trimmable, to deal with LEDs. They do a module, but I don't get how this works. Lights are no use whatsoever if you can only control them by app - rooms still need a physical light switch for convenience and operability by any person...
Is there any way to disable port forwarding from certain Z-Wave components e.g. security? Don't care if my lights are hackable from the internet - trade-off for me being able to turn them on with geofencing or manually from down the street on my way home. But I'm a bit more worried about someone hacking the alarm system and door locks.
Perhaps partial automation is the key here - stick with traditional alarm and door locks (both could still be controlled by physical fobs/codes). Z-Wave automate lights, heating, CCTV etc.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Wednesday 8th June 16:32
I almost went with Fibaro HC2 but in the end I did not bother as support seems to be lacking. (They are Polish)
I do however have some of their sensors which have been 100% reliable.
I also looked at Indigo which has to run on a MAC and uses a Z Wave dongle. I ruled that out as it needed too much custom code.
That's why I went with Samsung. I now control:
Front door lamp (time)
Hall way lights (PIR)
Landing lights (PIR)
Garage lights (contact)
I also have a "basic" alarm function using 2 contacts, more to tell me when my garage / back door is open / closed.
We also have 3 x NEST smoke alarms. Yet to get them to talk to the ST... not sure if needed.
I still have loads to do!!! I want to get lighting sorted first, but going to have to wait a few months as I am a bit busy at this time of year.
CCTV / Alarm are stand alone and not worth risking IMHO. CCTV I use HIKvision and Alarm is Texecom.
I do however have some of their sensors which have been 100% reliable.
I also looked at Indigo which has to run on a MAC and uses a Z Wave dongle. I ruled that out as it needed too much custom code.
That's why I went with Samsung. I now control:
Front door lamp (time)
Hall way lights (PIR)
Landing lights (PIR)
Garage lights (contact)
I also have a "basic" alarm function using 2 contacts, more to tell me when my garage / back door is open / closed.
We also have 3 x NEST smoke alarms. Yet to get them to talk to the ST... not sure if needed.
I still have loads to do!!! I want to get lighting sorted first, but going to have to wait a few months as I am a bit busy at this time of year.
CCTV / Alarm are stand alone and not worth risking IMHO. CCTV I use HIKvision and Alarm is Texecom.
red_slr said:
I almost went with Fibaro HC2 but in the end I did not bother as support seems to be lacking. (They are Polish)
I do however have some of their sensors which have been 100% reliable.
I also looked at Indigo which has to run on a MAC and uses a Z Wave dongle. I ruled that out as it needed too much custom code.
That's why I went with Samsung. I now control:
Front door lamp (time)
Hall way lights (PIR)
Landing lights (PIR)
Garage lights (contact)
I also have a "basic" alarm function using 2 contacts, more to tell me when my garage / back door is open / closed.
We also have 3 x NEST smoke alarms. Yet to get them to talk to the ST... not sure if needed.
I still have loads to do!!! I want to get lighting sorted first, but going to have to wait a few months as I am a bit busy at this time of year.
CCTV / Alarm are stand alone and not worth risking IMHO. CCTV I use HIKvision and Alarm is Texecom.
How are you getting on the Samsung ? Reliable? Do you have any remote switches?I do however have some of their sensors which have been 100% reliable.
I also looked at Indigo which has to run on a MAC and uses a Z Wave dongle. I ruled that out as it needed too much custom code.
That's why I went with Samsung. I now control:
Front door lamp (time)
Hall way lights (PIR)
Landing lights (PIR)
Garage lights (contact)
I also have a "basic" alarm function using 2 contacts, more to tell me when my garage / back door is open / closed.
We also have 3 x NEST smoke alarms. Yet to get them to talk to the ST... not sure if needed.
I still have loads to do!!! I want to get lighting sorted first, but going to have to wait a few months as I am a bit busy at this time of year.
CCTV / Alarm are stand alone and not worth risking IMHO. CCTV I use HIKvision and Alarm is Texecom.
Switches, no. I am using 2 240v power outlet thingies though. (if that's what you mean)
I would say its 95% reliable. Maybe a bit more.
Just sometimes it fails to respond or lights stay on.
Front door light should go off at 4am but 2 or 3 times its still been on at 7am when I go to work so had to turn it off via the app.
Only had 1 full on melt down so far when I had to power down the whole system, ST, Hue, router etc.
I would say its 95% reliable. Maybe a bit more.
Just sometimes it fails to respond or lights stay on.
Front door light should go off at 4am but 2 or 3 times its still been on at 7am when I go to work so had to turn it off via the app.
Only had 1 full on melt down so far when I had to power down the whole system, ST, Hue, router etc.
red_slr said:
Switches, no. I am using 2 240v power outlet thingies though. (if that's what you mean)
I would say its 95% reliable. Maybe a bit more.
Just sometimes it fails to respond or lights stay on.
Front door light should go off at 4am but 2 or 3 times its still been on at 7am when I go to work so had to turn it off via the app.
Only had 1 full on melt down so far when I had to power down the whole system, ST, Hue, router etc.
Yep those are what I mean and thanks. Are you using any as pure range extenders ?I would say its 95% reliable. Maybe a bit more.
Just sometimes it fails to respond or lights stay on.
Front door light should go off at 4am but 2 or 3 times its still been on at 7am when I go to work so had to turn it off via the app.
Only had 1 full on melt down so far when I had to power down the whole system, ST, Hue, router etc.
red_slr said:
Switches, no. I am using 2 240v power outlet thingies though. (if that's what you mean)
I would say its 95% reliable. Maybe a bit more.
Just sometimes it fails to respond or lights stay on.
Front door light should go off at 4am but 2 or 3 times its still been on at 7am when I go to work so had to turn it off via the app.
Only had 1 full on melt down so far when I had to power down the whole system, ST, Hue, router etc.
BTW has anyone found any where else (cheaper) for the Samsung kit as it seems Currys have a monopoly!!!I would say its 95% reliable. Maybe a bit more.
Just sometimes it fails to respond or lights stay on.
Front door light should go off at 4am but 2 or 3 times its still been on at 7am when I go to work so had to turn it off via the app.
Only had 1 full on melt down so far when I had to power down the whole system, ST, Hue, router etc.
Harry Flashman said:
OK, I am beginning to think that the Fibaro Z-Wave kit is probably a better bet than Lightwave. The fact that it uses its own mesh network is a big one - if the Wi-Fi goes down, stuff still works. Anyone know what frequency that network is on? Main concern for me is a lot of stuff on the 2.4Ghz band - wifi/SOnos/Z-wave means potential interference and issues.
Are there any Z-wave dimmers apart from the ugly continental style square things? Advantage of the LightwaveRF kit is that it looks good. The dimmer needs to be trailing edge and trimmable, to deal with LEDs. They do a module, but I don't get how this works. Lights are no use whatsoever if you can only control them by app - rooms still need a physical light switch for convenience and operability by any person...
Is there any way to disable port forwarding from certain Z-Wave components e.g. security? Don't care if my lights are hackable from the internet - trade-off for me being able to turn them on with geofencing or manually from down the street on my way home. But I'm a bit more worried about someone hacking the alarm system and door locks.
Perhaps partial automation is the key here - stick with traditional alarm and door locks (both could still be controlled by physical fobs/codes). Z-Wave automate lights, heating, CCTV etc.
Here's how I'd approach this.Are there any Z-wave dimmers apart from the ugly continental style square things? Advantage of the LightwaveRF kit is that it looks good. The dimmer needs to be trailing edge and trimmable, to deal with LEDs. They do a module, but I don't get how this works. Lights are no use whatsoever if you can only control them by app - rooms still need a physical light switch for convenience and operability by any person...
Is there any way to disable port forwarding from certain Z-Wave components e.g. security? Don't care if my lights are hackable from the internet - trade-off for me being able to turn them on with geofencing or manually from down the street on my way home. But I'm a bit more worried about someone hacking the alarm system and door locks.
Perhaps partial automation is the key here - stick with traditional alarm and door locks (both could still be controlled by physical fobs/codes). Z-Wave automate lights, heating, CCTV etc.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Wednesday 8th June 16:32
First off work out what you want to do, what you want to automate and then look at how to tie it together.
If you use separate systems like you've intimated you'd be happy to do then prepare for frustration.
I use a mac mini with indigo on it, I can tie all of my HA stuff together using indigo. It's my control point, I don't touch my hue bulbs manually, everything I've put together has been done so that I have to do nothing. The joy of automation is that it does it for you.
I use z-wave modules, predominantly fibaro dimmer 2 modules as they autodetect what dimming mode is needed (trailing/leading edge)
My light switches are all deco click modules, I use momentary contact switch modules with a brushed finish. They look like standard switches. Single click press to turn back on to the last value, hold to dim or brighten. They work independently from the controller if you want to manually turn things on and off.
All z-wave modules in the euro zone work at 868.42Mhz. There are no ports to open as they don't work that way.
My alarm is a DSC 32 zone unit with an interface board that indigo can work with. That way I can use arm/disarm information to turn things on and off when people come and go.
My typical day routine works like this:
I have my work shift pattern in the home calendar so that the "house" knows when I need to get up.
20 minutes before I need to get up my coffee machine turns on
At the time I need to wake up the Sonos speaker in my bedroom makes an announcement, this morning it said "Good Morning, it's 06:35, Current conditions are Clear with a temperature of 15.2 degrees., Today's high temperature is forecast to be 23 degrees and there is a 40 percent chance of rain"
That was done using the Ivona Text to speech service so it sounds human.
It then plays my wake up choice of music using the Bedroom, Kitchen and Bathroom Sonos Speakers.
The Hue lights in my bedside table lamps are turned on to a preset
I leave the bedroom, the alarm PIR on the landing triggers, that causes indigo to check the luminance level on the landing, if it's below a threshold then the landing light is turned on.
Walking in to the bathroom a Z-Wave PIR fires, again Indigo checks luminance, if it's below a certain level then an LED stip over the sink is turned on. Counters reset by movement keep that light on as long as someone is in the bathroom.
At the top and bottom of the stairs I have a pressure sensors under the carpet. when they are tripped they check the alarm status, if it's armed then an LED channel under the stair stringer turns on, bathing the stairs in red light if going down stairs, or if it's not armed white and green. If going upstairs it will normally light white or white and red if it's past 10pm and the alarm is not set. It's meant to work as a reminder so that my wife doesn't wake the neighbours when she forgets it's set!
The alarm PIR in the hall will turn the light on if the luminance levels are low
When the last person leaves the house after setting the alarm Indigo turns off all non essential items, Sonos stops playing, Coffee machine is turned off.
When the alarm is unset Sonos starts playing again, if I'm home then the coffee machine will turn on, I use geofences and ibeacons to check this.
30 minutes before sunset exterior lights are turned on, if we're not home then a random light schedule fires that turns on different lights in the house.
At night if the front room amp is turned on then ambient lights behind the tv and sofa turn on to a preset.
When the alarm is set in stay mode the house goes into sleep, non essential devices are turned off.
Getting all of that to happen has taken work but there are minimal human inputs. It's all done for me, all controlled by Indigo which is interfacing to Z-Wave, Hue, Sonos, Pioneer Amp, DSC Alarm, Weather Underground, iBeacons and Apple iCloud.
I'm working on control panels at the moment it's just too easy to make them over complicated.
If anyones using Samsung Smartthings check out the ITead Sonoff switch. Its a mains powered wifi enabled relay basically. I just received a box of them from China and for less than £5 each they are pretty decent. Have a programmable ESP8266 chip in them so you can ditch their software and put MQTT or code for Smartthings on it.
Its not totally plug and play, you will need to solder some headers into the device and buy a FTDI adapter to upload the code - but after that just connect it to your wifi and add a smartthings custom app and your away. If I can figure it out....
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-sonoff...
I have 3 working in my home at the moment, looking at adding sensors to some others for temperature and humidity at the moment.
Its not totally plug and play, you will need to solder some headers into the device and buy a FTDI adapter to upload the code - but after that just connect it to your wifi and add a smartthings custom app and your away. If I can figure it out....
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-sonoff...
I have 3 working in my home at the moment, looking at adding sensors to some others for temperature and humidity at the moment.
Chockymonster, that's very interesting: thanks!
We will have EcoLED LEDs. I would like to use Z-wave dimmers, but cannot for the life of me work out how the Fibaro things work. Do you need one for each gang (there will be several 4 gang switches in the house), or one per switch?
The advantage with the Z-wave protocol is using IFTT to do the sort of things that you are talking about.
That said, I do not want the alarm to be port=forwarded for internet control. Hacking is getting more sophisticated, not less, and there will be a couple of valuable cars parked outside. I want as few vulnerabilities in the alarm system as possible, and a physical keypad is just fine for me.
We will have EcoLED LEDs. I would like to use Z-wave dimmers, but cannot for the life of me work out how the Fibaro things work. Do you need one for each gang (there will be several 4 gang switches in the house), or one per switch?
The advantage with the Z-wave protocol is using IFTT to do the sort of things that you are talking about.
That said, I do not want the alarm to be port=forwarded for internet control. Hacking is getting more sophisticated, not less, and there will be a couple of valuable cars parked outside. I want as few vulnerabilities in the alarm system as possible, and a physical keypad is just fine for me.
Harry Flashman said:
Chockymonster, that's very interesting: thanks!
We will have EcoLED LEDs. I would like to use Z-wave dimmers, but cannot for the life of me work out how the Fibaro things work. Do you need one for each gang (there will be several 4 gang switches in the house), or one per switch?
The advantage with the Z-wave protocol is using IFTT to do the sort of things that you are talking about.
That said, I do not want the alarm to be port=forwarded for internet control. Hacking is getting more sophisticated, not less, and there will be a couple of valuable cars parked outside. I want as few vulnerabilities in the alarm system as possible, and a physical keypad is just fine for me.
You need one fibaro dimmer per light circuit. I tend to put the dimmer in the patress box if it's deep enough. Otherwise you can put it at the light fitting.We will have EcoLED LEDs. I would like to use Z-wave dimmers, but cannot for the life of me work out how the Fibaro things work. Do you need one for each gang (there will be several 4 gang switches in the house), or one per switch?
The advantage with the Z-wave protocol is using IFTT to do the sort of things that you are talking about.
That said, I do not want the alarm to be port=forwarded for internet control. Hacking is getting more sophisticated, not less, and there will be a couple of valuable cars parked outside. I want as few vulnerabilities in the alarm system as possible, and a physical keypad is just fine for me.
The dimmers don't need a neutral, some of the other modules do so be careful.
I don't use iftt because it's unreliable, both from a schedule point of view or an actually firing point of view, it is also very linear in terms of what it can do without relying on multiple channels that might not work. I've never had a trigger or schedule fail to fire unless I've cocked up the settings!
You keep mentioning port forwarding, I don't have any setup at all. My HA system cannot arm or disarm my alarm, it is read only. I can access Indigo externally because there is a secure reflector service. Nothing in my house needs internet connection for control.
VEX said:
Wow, well done Chocky, Impressive.
I am doing things a little different here at HTC Towers, as a demo suite / show house, but the results are hopefully going to be similar.
V.
Thanks.I am doing things a little different here at HTC Towers, as a demo suite / show house, but the results are hopefully going to be similar.
V.
Happy to run through stuff with anyone that wants more info. My system does a lot more but it makes me sound lazy and even geekier!
Tracking temperature in every room, power usage, hours coffee machine is turned on. PIRs to turn LED accent lights in my son's room, LED lit house number, push notification of doorbell being pressed, cctv feeds into control panels etc, etc!
It's all done on site with no reliance on cloud products, I don't want my internet access going down to limit stuff, it can't be unreliable because that would seriously impact the wife acceptance factor!
My take on home automation is that I shouldn't need to use control pages/buttons etc. The system should sit in the background and do the job for me.
That's great. I've got Domoticz running right now. Ordered a z-wave USB and switch to try it out.
Hijacking OP's thread slightly - I have a 'conventional' alarm system with PIRs etc, but it's very old tech and boring.
Are there alarm panels available which will also let me utilise the PIRs as motion detectors in a HA setup ?
Hijacking OP's thread slightly - I have a 'conventional' alarm system with PIRs etc, but it's very old tech and boring.
Are there alarm panels available which will also let me utilise the PIRs as motion detectors in a HA setup ?
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff