Insulating an internal garage wall
Discussion
Need to pick the collective brain on this one. I'd like to add some insulation to this wall - our kitchen is the other side of the wall and we seem to be getting an excessive amount of cold transferring through the wall and into the kitchen (there's no cavity in between, just the solid blockwork).
My initial plan was just to use CLS timber to frame this out and then fill with normal fibreglass type insulation, with either fireline or normal plasterboard on top. However, depending on who I've spoken to, I've had a different answer on whether this is the best way to do it. Some have suggested using Kingspan/Celotex type insulation boards instead, others insulated plasterboard. Here's a pic of the wall in question. It's about to get our new boiler mounted there shortly, so I'm looking to get it boarded out soonest. It doesn't need to be pretty (and it'll be me that's doing it, so unlikely to be anyway!), I don't want to take too much space out of the existing garage, and ideally not spend a fortune on it either!
Any thoughts on the best way to go about this?
My initial plan was just to use CLS timber to frame this out and then fill with normal fibreglass type insulation, with either fireline or normal plasterboard on top. However, depending on who I've spoken to, I've had a different answer on whether this is the best way to do it. Some have suggested using Kingspan/Celotex type insulation boards instead, others insulated plasterboard. Here's a pic of the wall in question. It's about to get our new boiler mounted there shortly, so I'm looking to get it boarded out soonest. It doesn't need to be pretty (and it'll be me that's doing it, so unlikely to be anyway!), I don't want to take too much space out of the existing garage, and ideally not spend a fortune on it either!
Any thoughts on the best way to go about this?
Celotex/Kingspan has a higher insulation U Value, so kind of depends how much space you want/can afford to loose. If you've got a fair bit of space, 2x4 stud it and fill with rock wool 100mm.
Or, if you are feeling lazy, you could dot and dab combined Celotex/plasterboard. but not much good for hanging things!
Or, if you are feeling lazy, you could dot and dab combined Celotex/plasterboard. but not much good for hanging things!
I did this to my garage last year.
Used insulated plasterboard and everbuild pinkgrip dryfix.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WHJ2Iy60BWI
If you want to double up with mechanical fixings then something like this would do
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7fPmuKmW2Zc
I didn't bother and it's been fine. Spray it on, leave it until it gets tacky (for me was approx 5-7min) then simply stick the board to the wall. No framing needed. (My garage is now a gym so I wasn't that bothered).
Used insulated plasterboard and everbuild pinkgrip dryfix.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WHJ2Iy60BWI
If you want to double up with mechanical fixings then something like this would do
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7fPmuKmW2Zc
I didn't bother and it's been fine. Spray it on, leave it until it gets tacky (for me was approx 5-7min) then simply stick the board to the wall. No framing needed. (My garage is now a gym so I wasn't that bothered).
The above is fine for insulating the wall but is that a concrete roof? If so and there's nothing above it then the insulation won't help much since the heat will still heat up the wall from the kitchen side and then that heat will transfer to the roof slab and to the atmosphere - you'll have slowed the heat dissipation but not much.
I have a similar layout but the garage backed onto a bedroom thats since used as a gym. I just used dot n dab on insulated plasterboard. The air gap and insulation was enough to do the job on what is really an internal wall. More importantly created a real ceiling in the garage and insulated that. Now have 75mm of celotex in the roof + insulated board
its nice n stable temp all year, even in winter with no heating rarely gets below 6deg, due to heat soak from the house
its nice n stable temp all year, even in winter with no heating rarely gets below 6deg, due to heat soak from the house
I'm in a similar position to OP, looking to do the internal wall of the garage (cavity), external wall (single layer of brick), and ceiling (felt roof, unknown insulation).
I was probably going to use thermal plasterboard for convenience and because you need half as much material as fibreglass. Even the thinnest thermal plasterboard ought to be significantly better than a single brick wall. I was probably going to use very thin batons and screw everything to the wall as it'd be easier to DIY, and I thought a gap may help reduce any moisture transfer.
I was probably going to use thermal plasterboard for convenience and because you need half as much material as fibreglass. Even the thinnest thermal plasterboard ought to be significantly better than a single brick wall. I was probably going to use very thin batons and screw everything to the wall as it'd be easier to DIY, and I thought a gap may help reduce any moisture transfer.
Thanks for input all - ended up going with the suggested CLS for framing, 25mm Celotex and Fireline plasterboard. I wanted something substantial for the boiler to mount to, so just insulated plasterboard and the thermal blocks felt a bit too risky. Considered Ply as well, but the fire resistant benefits of the plasterboard were more important - I'm less likely to be hanging things off that wall either. I'll stick up some pics when I'm finished!
Esseesse said:
So is Fireline thicker or tougher? My garage will still be a garage/workshop so important that I'm able to hang things up.
No but I don't think that he means that - he'll be fixing through the plasterboard to the timber. If you want to be able to hang things up/install shelves then attach plywood to the studs and then plasterboard over that if you need fire protection.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff