DIY fitting a UPVC window advice needed

[Mech Tech RAF]

Evening chaps, i'll be replacing an old rotten wood window tomorrow (1st floor bathroom single pane side opening 600x600ish) but i need to check something with you more knowledgeable folks...


the window is slightly smaller than the one it'll be replacing (seems to be a necessity to account for expansion etc), but what are the best fixings to use to actually secure the frame to the sides of the opening? read a few different ways but thought there must be a window fitter on here somewhere who can give more definite advice :-)

also... if i need to tidy up the render (the house is rendered) round the opening, is it ok to patch it up and leave it exposed to the elements for a while until i get round to painting the whole house?

got one of those ready made cavity closer jobbies to sort out the gap round the bottom and sides, im assuming ill be alright to just dot and dab plasterboard over the top to make a good finish of the reveals on the inside?


cheers in advance, John

[B17NNS]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/powerline-frame-fixings-...

Pack the frame so as not to distort it when fixing.

Render will be fine unfinished. Just dab board over the cavity closer to form the new reveals.

[Simpo Two]

Frame fixings: http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-sxr-frame-fixing...

How big is the gap? It's usually covered on both sides by plastic mouldings stuck on with sealant.

[Mech Tech RAF]

the gap round the edge of the frame to the blocks do you mean?

[Mech Tech RAF]

(cheers for the speedy replies by the way fellas)

[m4ckg]

You need the fixings B17NNS has recommended. You won't need to use plastic packers, just some expanding foam

[Mech Tech RAF]

m4ckg said:

You need the fixings B17NNS has recommended. You won't need to use plastic packers, just some expanding foam

cool, i'll see if good ol' screwfix has some in stock near me so I can grab them on my way past in the morning.


thanks chaps, 'tis much appreciated :-)


John

[GuinnessMK]

Let us know how you get on.

I've got two windows to replace in the near future. When you ordered the windows, did you give the supplier the opening size, or did you knock a bit off for expansion?

Cheers

[alex_rsa]

Be very careful when drilling the brick to accept the rawl-plugs. Take it slow as you are drilling into the end of the brick and the like to crack. I would also drill the brick before the frame as you may have to redrill a hole.

I would use packers, you can buy a whole packet for a few pounds. I have used them for various things (cupboards etc.) since. If you dont use them the frame will distort when you tighten the screws as it has no lateral strength and you will just end up twisting the frame to the wall. They are also useful to square the frame in the opening.

Finish off with expanding foam to fill any gaps - word of advice - buy an expanding foam gun it allows you to control the amount of foam you use.

I have fitted 4 UPVC windows and have learnt the hard way!

[andy43]

m4ckg said:

You need the fixings B17NNS has recommended. You won't need to use plastic packers, just some expanding foam

That's what I've used. Trade call them rapier bolts afaik. Worth trying a smaller hole than recommended as well - 6mm if it's into breeze block or something soft as a 6.5mm bit can mean the fixings don't grip as well as they should. Pack well round fixings holes, screw fixings in, glaze using more packers to centre the dg units, then foam all round. Get a proper foam gun and canisters - well worth £20-odd - way more controllable than the diy aerosol with the plastic tube on the end, plus you don't waste any foam between jobs.
I watched a window 'fitter' fit a window with nothing but foam once. Not recommended.

[m4ckg]

andy43 said:

m4ckg said:

You need the fixings B17NNS has recommended. You won't need to use plastic packers, just some expanding foam

That's what I've used. Trade call them rapier bolts afaik. Worth trying a smaller hole than recommended as well - 6mm if it's into breeze block or something soft as a 6.5mm bit can mean the fixings don't grip as well as they should. Pack well round fixings holes, screw fixings in, glaze using more packers to centre the dg units, then foam all round. Get a proper foam gun and canisters - well worth £20-odd - way more controllable than the diy aerosol with the plastic tube on the end, plus you don't waste any foam between jobs.
I watched a window 'fitter' fit a window with nothing but foam once. Not recommended.

I find you don't need packers where the fixings are going because the thread holds the frame without pulling it in

[bigdom]

I was put onto these by the builder we've used for a few bits, work well IMHO.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p85179

[Spudler]

Ignore the advice regarding not using packers.


You must use packers and you must 'Toe & Heel' the glazing on the openers.

[m4ckg]

Spudler said:

Ignore the advice regarding not using packers.


You must use packers and you must 'Toe & Heel' the glazing on the openers.

Can you tell me why you'd need packers with those fixings ?

[wolfracesonic]

m4ckg said:

Spudler said:

Ignore the advice regarding not using packers.


You must use packers and you must 'Toe & Heel' the glazing on the openers.

Can you tell me why you'd need packers with those fixings ?

I,m with Spudler on this, rightly or wrongly! I always drill a clearance hole for the fixing in the frame, then drill a smaller hole for the fixing in the brickwork and use packers to align/wedge the frame in the opening: Doesn't using the thread of the screw make adjusting the frame back and forth a bit tricky? Will give a try it on the next job, always up for new ideas!

[m4ckg]

wolfracesonic said:

m4ckg said:

Spudler said:

Ignore the advice regarding not using packers.


You must use packers and you must 'Toe & Heel' the glazing on the openers.

Can you tell me why you'd need packers with those fixings ?

I,m with Spudler on this, rightly or wrongly! I always drill a clearance hole for the fixing in the frame, then drill a smaller hole for the fixing in the brickwork and use packers to align/wedge the frame in the opening: Doesn't using the thread of the screw make adjusting the frame back and forth a bit tricky? Will give a try it on the next job, always up for new ideas!

If you use the fixings mentioned you'll see what I mean. I'm not saying that I know best but most window fitters do this

[andy43]

m4ckg said:

wolfracesonic said:

m4ckg said:

Spudler said:

Ignore the advice regarding not using packers.


You must use packers and you must 'Toe & Heel' the glazing on the openers.

Can you tell me why you'd need packers with those fixings ?

I,m with Spudler on this, rightly or wrongly! I always drill a clearance hole for the fixing in the frame, then drill a smaller hole for the fixing in the brickwork and use packers to align/wedge the frame in the opening: Doesn't using the thread of the screw make adjusting the frame back and forth a bit tricky? Will give a try it on the next job, always up for new ideas!

If you use the fixings mentioned you'll see what I mean. I'm not saying that I know best but most window fitters do this

Fair point - if you use a rapier bolt in one pass through the frame, across a 5-10mm gap and into the brick, the thread will hold the frame steady in position as it goes into the brick, maintaining the gap. Pro fitter would probably do this - but I'm a rank amateur, so belt and braces for me
You're knackered if you drill a clearance hole in the frame though.
Halfway house would be to use packers while screwing snug, slacken bolt off half a turn and pull the packers out before tightening up again - but for the pennies they cost, I'd leave 'em in. They help keep the frame in position before any bolts go in anyway.