Patching Plasterboard
Discussion
So after having pipe holes cut in my plasterboard walls - I now need a load of 1 foot square holes re-patched.
I fancy having a pop myself, so one the face of it I just need to stick two pieces of wood across each hole. Seat either new plasterboard cut out or the existing patch nice and square. Then fill, overtape then fill again then sand.
My only question is whether by taping it will a a flush patch - I cant see how it will be if the tape overlaps onto the existing plaster board?
Any tips or tricks I should consider?
I fancy having a pop myself, so one the face of it I just need to stick two pieces of wood across each hole. Seat either new plasterboard cut out or the existing patch nice and square. Then fill, overtape then fill again then sand.
My only question is whether by taping it will a a flush patch - I cant see how it will be if the tape overlaps onto the existing plaster board?
Any tips or tricks I should consider?
It is something I have seen the boys on sites do so many times and I am always amazed at the finish they get, and in no time at all. I know for a fact if I tried, it would end up looking like homers spice rack. Keen to see how you get on with it. I guess if its in an area where theres no light cast across or down it, it might not need to be that perfect a finish.
Make the holes square, and baton from behind. Fit the new patch absolutely flush with the existing wall then just fill and sand the edges.
To help pull the plasterboard out you can use plastic spacers, they are available from 1mm to 10mm from DIY sheds, used for glazing I think.
Its a bodge but I'm assumimg you dont have plastering skills so the method above is probably going to be your best bet.
Dont forget plasterboard comes in 2 thicknesses, 9mm four ceilings and 12mm for walls.
To help pull the plasterboard out you can use plastic spacers, they are available from 1mm to 10mm from DIY sheds, used for glazing I think.
Its a bodge but I'm assumimg you dont have plastering skills so the method above is probably going to be your best bet.
Dont forget plasterboard comes in 2 thicknesses, 9mm four ceilings and 12mm for walls.
Do the walls have a skim coat of plaster or are they dry-lined (painted plasterboard)? If skimmed then I wouldn't bother with tape, just cut the pieces to a good fit and fill. If dry-lined I think you'll have trouble getting a decent finish.
The area you fill might also show when you paint it, with the paint taking different on the filler to the rest of the wall.
Have you thought about hanging a few pictures or mirrors??
The area you fill might also show when you paint it, with the paint taking different on the filler to the rest of the wall.
Have you thought about hanging a few pictures or mirrors??
I think its been skimmed previously - I am tempted just to clean up the cuts and try one patch just to see how it turns out.
I would literally have about 15 mirrors in various rooms if I tried to hide them
Will have a closer look at a panel over the weekend. The whole house is getting painted anyway and I am using Matt paint now, which seems to show up much less in terms of surface variances.
Is there a good way to stick the batons on or should I just plasterboard screw them onto the back?
The worst area is the hall and I am tempted to line it with paper afterwards then paint.
I would literally have about 15 mirrors in various rooms if I tried to hide them
Will have a closer look at a panel over the weekend. The whole house is getting painted anyway and I am using Matt paint now, which seems to show up much less in terms of surface variances.
Is there a good way to stick the batons on or should I just plasterboard screw them onto the back?
The worst area is the hall and I am tempted to line it with paper afterwards then paint.
Screw through the front into the battens behind, just countersink them and fill when you do the rest.
As the holes are a fair size, it could be worth doing the battens all the way around the hole half over the existing board and half to receive the new board. This might help stop any movement when you come to fill and also stop the filler falling into the cavity.
If the side of any of the holes are near a stud, you could screw a piece of 2x2 to that instead of through the plasterboard.
As the holes are a fair size, it could be worth doing the battens all the way around the hole half over the existing board and half to receive the new board. This might help stop any movement when you come to fill and also stop the filler falling into the cavity.
If the side of any of the holes are near a stud, you could screw a piece of 2x2 to that instead of through the plasterboard.
Plasterboard comes in 9mm, 12.6mm and 15mm thickness, it comes as standard board (white), fireline (pink) board, moisture resistant (green) board, soundblock (blue) board, and performance (white) board. There are others also but these are the common ones.
9mm is rarely used and usually just for areas where a thinner board is required. 15mm is obviously stronger and has better acoustic, fire res properties etc and also fixing centers can be up to 600mm rather than the 400mm for 12.6mm board. Either can be used on floors or ceilings depending on what is specified.
9mm is rarely used and usually just for areas where a thinner board is required. 15mm is obviously stronger and has better acoustic, fire res properties etc and also fixing centers can be up to 600mm rather than the 400mm for 12.6mm board. Either can be used on floors or ceilings depending on what is specified.
dazwalsh said:
rb5er said:
You don't think thats true do you?
I'm not a plasterer or anything, just seemes like common sense thats all? Perhaps you could enlighten me?My point was more to get the correct thickness for the patch.
Consider yourself enlightened.
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