Rubble and soil piled up against wall above DPC - right?

Rubble and soil piled up against wall above DPC - right?

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Discussion

hepy

Original Poster:

1,267 posts

140 months

Friday 24th April 2015
quotequote all
We have just had an extension built and the builder has left rubble and soil piled up against the side of the house, and the level is above the damp proof course.

I'm no builder but I thought the DPC had the above any soil so that the DPC isn't breached.

Also where they have dug out the earth next to the property (our house is next to a steep railway embankment), the earth has been left sloped so water will run straight on to the new wall.

The existing wall has a flat area covered by small paving slabs, should there be something similar next to the new wall.

Sorry for all the questions, but if any knowledgeable people can help, I'd appreciate as my builder loves to use jargon.


p1stonhead

25,540 posts

167 months

Friday 24th April 2015
quotequote all
Get rid. It won't do your walls any good at all.

Do it soon.

hepy

Original Poster:

1,267 posts

140 months

Friday 24th April 2015
quotequote all
p1stonhead said:
Get rid. It won't do your walls any good at all.

Do it soon.
I've not paid the builder yet, still owe him about 40%, so I'll hold that back until it's done.

p1stonhead

25,540 posts

167 months

Friday 24th April 2015
quotequote all
hepy said:
I've not paid the builder yet, still owe him about 40%, so I'll hold that back until it's done.
Make sure ground level is down to at least 150mm under dpc.

SAB888

3,243 posts

207 months

Friday 24th April 2015
quotequote all
I can't see any soil there, it's all rubbish. Builder should know better than to leave it there.

You may need some drainage system or land drain depending on the layout and levels.

Spudler

3,985 posts

196 months

Friday 24th April 2015
quotequote all
The brickwork is a shower of st on its own so I should look carefull at the works.
And no, the rubble/st should not be breaching or near the dpc, unless there's an additional dpc & tray. Unlikely.

bobtail4x4

3,715 posts

109 months

Friday 24th April 2015
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the Bco wont pass it like that, lower the level to 2 course below the dpc.

roofer

5,136 posts

211 months

Saturday 25th April 2015
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Spudler said:
The brickwork is a shower of st on its own so I should look carefull at the works.
And no, the rubble/st should not be breaching or near the dpc, unless there's an additional dpc & tray. Unlikely.
Agreed, thumbed in pointing with a lot of cement content Looks lovely .

Rosscow

8,760 posts

163 months

Saturday 25th April 2015
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The bricks have run out as well, doesn't look anyway near a half overlap unless that's intended?

SAB888

3,243 posts

207 months

Saturday 25th April 2015
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Rosscow said:
The bricks have run out as well, doesn't look anyway near a half overlap unless that's intended?
Yes, you're right, it gets worse the more you look.

hepy

Original Poster:

1,267 posts

140 months

Sunday 26th April 2015
quotequote all
Building inspector is coming on Monday morning to sign things off, so will have a chat then. I've got a list of snags, most of them minor jobs, but this is the one that worries me.

Bricks difference is due to the old and new property meeting. Should the new bricks be 'toothed' (I think that's the term) in to the old ones?

Thanks for the comments, really appreciate it.

jason61c

5,978 posts

174 months

Sunday 26th April 2015
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hepy said:
Building inspector is coming on Monday morning to sign things off, so will have a chat then. I've got a list of snags, most of them minor jobs, but this is the one that worries me.

Bricks difference is due to the old and new property meeting. Should the new bricks be 'toothed' (I think that's the term) in to the old ones?

Thanks for the comments, really appreciate it.
I'd be glad you've got 40% in hand still. Given the quality of work on display I'd be worried about all the other aspects of the build. What people mention about the bricks are the new ones, not the old. The easiest way to describe what people mean is by looking at the vertical edge of the bricks, you'd expect to more or less be able to plumb a line down the edge of every course, what you've got apart from thumbed pointing is some strange irregularities along each course. Have you any more pics?

SAB888

3,243 posts

207 months

Sunday 26th April 2015
quotequote all
hepy said:
Building inspector is coming on Monday morning to sign things off, so will have a chat then. I've got a list of snags, most of them minor jobs, but this is the one that worries me.

Bricks difference is due to the old and new property meeting. Should the new bricks be 'toothed' (I think that's the term) in to the old ones?

Thanks for the comments, really appreciate it.
New brick/blocks would be toothed into the existing or vertical fixing plates and ties would be used to tie the new and old together.

As has been mentioned above, the joints in the new brickwork should be in line with the other courses, and as it's a stretcher bond, joints should be in the middle of the course above and below (if that makes sense). Was the cavity cut into the existing wall in order to make it continuous into the new work?

Alex@POD

6,149 posts

215 months

Monday 27th April 2015
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I'm currently building a patio which will involve raising the ground to the DPC level or slightly above. Which would be the best way to prevent future issues? Damp-proof membrane against the wall, or a drainage channel along the walls? Or something else entirely?

Too Late

5,094 posts

235 months

Monday 27th April 2015
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Alex@POD said:
I'm currently building a patio which will involve raising the ground to the DPC level or slightly above. Which would be the best way to prevent future issues? Damp-proof membrane against the wall, or a drainage channel along the walls? Or something else entirely?
Damp course on the wall up to the patio level.
sealed to the wall i beleive
then a linear threshold drain


herewego

8,814 posts

213 months

Monday 27th April 2015
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Alex@POD said:
I'm currently building a patio which will involve raising the ground to the DPC level or slightly above. Which would be the best way to prevent future issues? Damp-proof membrane against the wall, or a drainage channel along the walls? Or something else entirely?
Just keep it away from the wall. I have to guess this but I'd say minimum 6" away from the wall. You want too avoid rain bouncing onto the wall.

Edited by herewego on Monday 27th April 15:18