Cutting out hole for sink in worktop tomorrow - any tips?
Discussion
mgtony said:
illmonkey said:
ooo000ooo said:
ColinM50 said:
Some good advice here and only thing I'd change is I'd do the long cuts with a circular saw and just use the jigsaw for the bends. the circular saw cuts at 90 degrees whereas I've always found jigsaw cuts wander off vertical. But maybe that's just me?
As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
I had the same problem, top edge was perfect but the cut was slanted all over the place that badly that the start and finish didn't line up by about an inch underneath.As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
A decent one with a bearing guide behind the blade minimises the deflection.It's another reason not to cut from the underneath.
. Bosch pro belt sander, jigsaw, and SDS, plus a Makita 14.4v LXT cordless - utterly unnecessary, but... toys.... Actually came in handy a bit, and also for the current house. For a ham fisted DIYer they've been really good
mgtony said:
Or it's a cheap jigsaw. A decent one with a bearing guide behind the blade minimises the deflection.
It's another reason not to cut from the underneath.
First time i've done it so was probably forcing it too much, started off using an old jigsaw with a bearing guide, thought it was knackered so bought a new one and wasn't much better. Good blades would have been a good idea not b&q's finest. lesson learnt for the next time! A decent one with a bearing guide behind the blade minimises the deflection.It's another reason not to cut from the underneath.
ooo000ooo said:
First time i've done it so was probably forcing it too much, started off using an old jigsaw with a bearing guide, thought it was knackered so bought a new one and wasn't much better. Good blades would have been a good idea not b&q's finest. lesson learnt for the next time!
Learnt this lesson trying to cut a 150mm hole in a steel shed - 45 mins with a screwfix special hole saw, 2 minutes with a Bosch holes saw...
Well got it done. Minor bit of damage to the wall where we had to force it down a bit, (above the washing machine) to be made good after. We didn't fancy removing and trying to trim a fraction off that corner (hey we're not experts!). Then when it was in place we cut the cut-outs out. I pva'd it.
It's a very small flat before anyone questions the layout!
It's a very small flat before anyone questions the layout!
Wozy68 said:
Its not to seal the chipboard against water so much as its there to bond the chips together if water gets past the silicone seal.
The chips are already bonded together with glue. That's what chipboard is. Chips and glue.PVA will do absolutely nothing. If it gets wet it reimulsifies. Clear silicone is what's needed.
B17NNS said:
Wozy68 said:
Its not to seal the chipboard against water so much as its there to bond the chips together if water gets past the silicone seal.
The chips are already bonded together with glue. That's what chipboard is. Chips and glue.PVA will do absolutely nothing. If it gets wet it reimulsifies. Clear silicone is what's needed.
I have no idea what you mean about 'reimusifies'. PVA is not fully waterproof if immersed in water over time, however it is an excellent sealer for open chip chipboard worktops and will not break down if it gets wet, so stops chipboard from swelling. ......
Edited by Wozy68 on Sunday 2nd August 20:05
Wozy68 said:
B17NNS said:
Wozy68 said:
Its not to seal the chipboard against water so much as its there to bond the chips together if water gets past the silicone seal.
The chips are already bonded together with glue. That's what chipboard is. Chips and glue.PVA will do absolutely nothing. If it gets wet it reimulsifies. Clear silicone is what's needed.
I have no idea what you mean about 'reimusifies'. PVA is not fully waterproof if immersed in water over time, however it is an excellent sealer for open chip chipboard worktops and will not break down if it gets wet, so stops chipboard from swelling. ......
Edited by Wozy68 on Sunday 2nd August 20:05
Prob not necessary nowadays as the silicone makes a pretty permanent seal,
CoolHands said:
Well got it done. Minor bit of damage to the wall where we had to force it down a bit, (above the washing machine) to be made good after. We didn't fancy removing and trying to trim a fraction off that corner (hey we're not experts!).
An electric planer would have had that off in a jiffy, and all for £20 
Good old Ikea Metod
I don't think that sink can be turned if the existing drawers stay as they are - the bowl would encroach into the drawer unit right where the drawer body/rails are.
You could do it if you were prepared to sacrifice the top drawer and just use the drawer front as a blanking plate and have 3 working drawers below, but that would waste quite a bit of useful space in what looks to be an already compact kitchen, so...
...Ikea do deep drawer fronts, so you could possibly remove the top two drawers and their rails and replace with a medium drawer mechanism with a tall drawer front. I *think* the rails and body of the drawer would sit roughly where the second drawer down is at the moment, leaving the upper area clear but you'd need to check your Maximera assembly instructions to make sure. You'd need one of these: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/6020462... (in 80x60cm size) and an accompanying drawer front 80cm wide x 40cm high (sizes assume you're using 80cm wide drawers, I couldn't be sure from the photos).
Then you'd have two shallow drawers at the bottom and a single drawer above with enough clearance above its body (approx 25cm) for the sink to encroach into. Yes, the capacity of the drawer would be reduced ever so slightly on the left hand side but you'd retain the majority of the space and have somewhere to store large pans too.
I don't think that sink can be turned if the existing drawers stay as they are - the bowl would encroach into the drawer unit right where the drawer body/rails are.
You could do it if you were prepared to sacrifice the top drawer and just use the drawer front as a blanking plate and have 3 working drawers below, but that would waste quite a bit of useful space in what looks to be an already compact kitchen, so...
...Ikea do deep drawer fronts, so you could possibly remove the top two drawers and their rails and replace with a medium drawer mechanism with a tall drawer front. I *think* the rails and body of the drawer would sit roughly where the second drawer down is at the moment, leaving the upper area clear but you'd need to check your Maximera assembly instructions to make sure. You'd need one of these: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/6020462... (in 80x60cm size) and an accompanying drawer front 80cm wide x 40cm high (sizes assume you're using 80cm wide drawers, I couldn't be sure from the photos).
Then you'd have two shallow drawers at the bottom and a single drawer above with enough clearance above its body (approx 25cm) for the sink to encroach into. Yes, the capacity of the drawer would be reduced ever so slightly on the left hand side but you'd retain the majority of the space and have somewhere to store large pans too.
Edited by Risotto on Monday 3rd August 19:06
Got taps, pipes and waste fitted today, and sink fully fitted with silicon. I have to say Franke sinks - recommended 
Re - it being close to wall, yes I know. However in practice it is ok. Drainer can't go to the left as bowl would stick down into the upper drawers of the next (80cm BTW to the poster above) unit. Also re- slim people only need apply, well it will be rented to 20-something up & comings, so they're all fit as young trendy things are these days. As I said, very limited options because of flat. I've tried it and IMO it's fine.
here it was a few months ago:
Matching old wall with newer wall; old stud which can't be moved etc limits where electric sockets can be put; difficult drainage decisions as don't want to cut through more joists to run pipes etc makes it all very difficult. I can see why builders like new build, believe me.
Re - it being close to wall, yes I know. However in practice it is ok. Drainer can't go to the left as bowl would stick down into the upper drawers of the next (80cm BTW to the poster above) unit. Also re- slim people only need apply, well it will be rented to 20-something up & comings, so they're all fit as young trendy things are these days. As I said, very limited options because of flat. I've tried it and IMO it's fine.
here it was a few months ago:
Matching old wall with newer wall; old stud which can't be moved etc limits where electric sockets can be put; difficult drainage decisions as don't want to cut through more joists to run pipes etc makes it all very difficult. I can see why builders like new build, believe me.
Edited by CoolHands on Monday 3rd August 22:42
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