Kitchen - Under Floor Heating??
Discussion
Would love some input guys!
We are having plans drawn up for a new kitchen.
Mrs Sarnie wants under floor heating.
Is it actually worth it? A kitchen guy said this work that it's not worth it and to just install a lower plinth heater into the bottom of the units........
Electric or Water based piped system??
Any issue with having a wood flooring over it? Eg is the wood likely to warp etc? I assume if there are any leeks it's better to have wooden flooring rather than having to take up tiles?
Any ideas on likely costs or any specialist providers or websites?
Thanks!
We are having plans drawn up for a new kitchen.
Mrs Sarnie wants under floor heating.
Is it actually worth it? A kitchen guy said this work that it's not worth it and to just install a lower plinth heater into the bottom of the units........
Electric or Water based piped system??
Any issue with having a wood flooring over it? Eg is the wood likely to warp etc? I assume if there are any leeks it's better to have wooden flooring rather than having to take up tiles?
Any ideas on likely costs or any specialist providers or websites?
Thanks!
Electrics cheaper to install but more expensive to run. Low profile also. It'll be a easy install.
Wet is cheaper to run but more of an expensive install. You also need more depth to accommodate. You'll need to get feeds (2x22mm water and electrical) from the boiler to a manifold which you'll have to accommodate.
The wooden floor is an option as long as it is compatible. Typically that'll be an engineered floor over a solid wooden plank.
Wet is cheaper to run but more of an expensive install. You also need more depth to accommodate. You'll need to get feeds (2x22mm water and electrical) from the boiler to a manifold which you'll have to accommodate.
The wooden floor is an option as long as it is compatible. Typically that'll be an engineered floor over a solid wooden plank.
Gingerbread Man said:
Electrics cheaper to install but more expensive to run. Low profile also. It'll be a easy install.
Wet is cheaper to run but more of an expensive install. You also need more depth to accommodate. You'll need to get feeds (2x22mm water and electrical) from the boiler to a manifold which you'll have to accommodate.
The wooden floor is an option as long as it is compatible. Typically that'll be an engineered floor over a solid wooden plank.
Thanks!Wet is cheaper to run but more of an expensive install. You also need more depth to accommodate. You'll need to get feeds (2x22mm water and electrical) from the boiler to a manifold which you'll have to accommodate.
The wooden floor is an option as long as it is compatible. Typically that'll be an engineered floor over a solid wooden plank.
Digging out the floor for a wet system sounds like a pain!!
We are intending to move in a couple of years so the cheaper electric install may work out best for us?
I'd have to agree with your kitchen fitter. UFH is very effective if it's built into the house when it was built and even better if it's being fed by a ground source system. As a retro-fit, either wet system or mats, I don't really see the advantage as our climate means that heating demands are generally focussed upon short periods of time (mornings and evenings perhaps) and the heating up time for underfloor systems (this includes the sub-floor and the flooring surface covering) isn't quick enough to meet the demand that a conventional system with radiators will.
The best two options are:
Electric plinth heater - probably less than £100 but a little pricey to run for any length of time.
Hydronic plinth heater - runs off CH pipework, switches automatically when the CH is running. Some types even have an internal 1000W heating element to boost the output. A good one will cost upwards of £300.
I'd spend the money on the tactile parts of the kitchen ( worktops, appliances etc.) rather than under the floor, but that's just me. Some people love their underfloor heating and I've seen how good it can be if left running for long periods, I'm never home for that long!
The best two options are:
Electric plinth heater - probably less than £100 but a little pricey to run for any length of time.
Hydronic plinth heater - runs off CH pipework, switches automatically when the CH is running. Some types even have an internal 1000W heating element to boost the output. A good one will cost upwards of £300.
I'd spend the money on the tactile parts of the kitchen ( worktops, appliances etc.) rather than under the floor, but that's just me. Some people love their underfloor heating and I've seen how good it can be if left running for long periods, I'm never home for that long!
Richie Slow said:
I'd have to agree with your kitchen fitter. UFH is very effective if it's built into the house when it was built and even better if it's being fed by a ground source system. As a retro-fit, either wet system or mats, I don't really see the advantage as our climate means that heating demands are generally focussed upon short periods of time (mornings and evenings perhaps) and the heating up time for underfloor systems (this includes the sub-floor and the flooring surface covering) isn't quick enough to meet the demand that a conventional system with radiators will.
The best two options are:
Electric plinth heater - probably less than £100 but a little pricey to run for any length of time.
Hydronic plinth heater - runs off CH pipework, switches automatically when the CH is running. Some types even have an internal 1000W heating element to boost the output. A good one will cost upwards of £300.
I'd spend the money on the tactile parts of the kitchen ( worktops, appliances etc.) rather than under the floor, but that's just me. Some people love their underfloor heating and I've seen how good it can be if left running for long periods, I'm never home for that long!
The plinth type heater seems the simplest way to go, I suppose the decision will be made clearer when the builder & plumbers give us some figures for installing the UFH!!The best two options are:
Electric plinth heater - probably less than £100 but a little pricey to run for any length of time.
Hydronic plinth heater - runs off CH pipework, switches automatically when the CH is running. Some types even have an internal 1000W heating element to boost the output. A good one will cost upwards of £300.
I'd spend the money on the tactile parts of the kitchen ( worktops, appliances etc.) rather than under the floor, but that's just me. Some people love their underfloor heating and I've seen how good it can be if left running for long periods, I'm never home for that long!
Mrs Sarnie really wants it, I like the idea of it, it just sounds like a lot of potential work and hassle for a house that we won't be in forever....
We put a Devi electric under floor heating matt under slates in kitchen and more regular tiles in bathroom ensuite.
Slates too thick really but if you have the matt on at night it stays warm for about 12 hours after, bathrooms quicker to react.
No noticeable difference in electric bill.
The Devi timers are excellent, if you set if for a temp at a time if the room isn't up to temp it comes on earlier and ditto for later, the digital ones are really easy to use too.
Slates too thick really but if you have the matt on at night it stays warm for about 12 hours after, bathrooms quicker to react.
No noticeable difference in electric bill.
The Devi timers are excellent, if you set if for a temp at a time if the room isn't up to temp it comes on earlier and ditto for later, the digital ones are really easy to use too.
I had the same dilemma as you and considered plinth heaters, but in the end I dug up the old screed myself and fitted a wet system. It was a fair bit of work and mess, but it's done now and ended up only costing a few hundred quid as most of the cost of fitting is in the labour.
I'm really pleased with it - there's something very satisfying about a warm floor in the winter
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&a...
I'm really pleased with it - there's something very satisfying about a warm floor in the winter
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&a...
We went for electric matting as we didn't want to dig up the concrete. There is a small height increase due to the insulation required. Total 1kw when on so an hour morning and evening is getting on for 20-30p per day.. It does add up although it's nice underfoot
This is for a galley kitchen about 4m long and it will not really heat the room, just take the edge off the cold tiles especially during winter.
I would say a larger kitchen or needing to heat the room as well would work out prohibitively expensive for electric UFH.
This is for a galley kitchen about 4m long and it will not really heat the room, just take the edge off the cold tiles especially during winter.
I would say a larger kitchen or needing to heat the room as well would work out prohibitively expensive for electric UFH.
Wouldn't be without our underfloor heating in the kitchen. Ditched two radiators and used electric matting under tiles. Slight increase in height due to insulation but no big deal. Heats up quickly (use it in the morning and then evening) and superb in the winter. Had it nine years now and certainly don't notice it on the electric bill.
craig1912 said:
Wouldn't be without our underfloor heating in the kitchen. Ditched two radiators and used electric matting under tiles. Slight increase in height due to insulation but no big deal. Heats up quickly (use it in the morning and then evening) and superb in the winter. Had it nine years now and certainly don't notice it on the electric bill.
What sort of area are you talking though?We are looking at installing low profile wet UFH total floor build up of approx 22mm, over an area of approx 22 sqm (so not under counter tops etc etc) and are looking at around £1600 for fully supply, then £400-500 ish for full connections & electrics side of it.
edit: Just to add, this is going into a 2007 new build house, so the floor will have some degree of insulation under the screed. How much insulation is in there though, i have no idea!
edit: Just to add, this is going into a 2007 new build house, so the floor will have some degree of insulation under the screed. How much insulation is in there though, i have no idea!
Edited by Andehh on Sunday 2nd August 15:25
Frrair said:
We put a Devi electric under floor heating matt under slates in kitchen and more regular tiles in bathroom ensuite.
Slates too thick really but if you have the matt on at night it stays warm for about 12 hours after, bathrooms quicker to react.
No noticeable difference in electric bill.
The Devi timers are excellent, if you set if for a temp at a time if the room isn't up to temp it comes on earlier and ditto for later, the digital ones are really easy to use too.
No difference in bill? We had it put in & measured the difference for the week before to the week after......house electric use went up 6x !!!Slates too thick really but if you have the matt on at night it stays warm for about 12 hours after, bathrooms quicker to react.
No noticeable difference in electric bill.
The Devi timers are excellent, if you set if for a temp at a time if the room isn't up to temp it comes on earlier and ditto for later, the digital ones are really easy to use too.
How do you not see a difference: is your kitchen 2m x 2m ? Ours is an area effectively about 6m x 4m, & of course 100-150W per square metre adds up pretty quickly....
We don't use it now.....maybe our devi controllers are especially old school (digital, installed 2008), but I would never say it was easy to programme....
Edited by mikeiow on Sunday 2nd August 15:42
How good is the insulation in the house/room, a few people I know who have UF heating and insulation up to current standards say that as the insulation is so effective at keeping the heat in the room the floor is hardly ever warm as it doesn't have to come on much to heat the room, which on one hand is good but on the other hand is a bit disappointing walking into a room with UF heating and it being cold.
we have 33sq mtr of electric underfloor heating under our stone tiled kitchen floor, just put it in during March and much better than prior without.
used 3 of WarmUp 4Ie thermostats to manage http://www.warmup.co.uk/products/thermostats/4ie-s... - costing about £1.10/day so far to keep at around 21degrees and very intelligent control options.
used 3 of WarmUp 4Ie thermostats to manage http://www.warmup.co.uk/products/thermostats/4ie-s... - costing about £1.10/day so far to keep at around 21degrees and very intelligent control options.
tvrforever said:
we have 33sq mtr of electric underfloor heating under our stone tiled kitchen floor, just put it in during March and much better than prior without.
used 3 of WarmUp 4Ie thermostats to manage http://www.warmup.co.uk/products/thermostats/4ie-s... - costing about £1.10/day so far to keep at around 21degrees and very intelligent control options.
This was the sort of area I was looking at. So 33/month extra would increase my leccie bill by around 50%. used 3 of WarmUp 4Ie thermostats to manage http://www.warmup.co.uk/products/thermostats/4ie-s... - costing about £1.10/day so far to keep at around 21degrees and very intelligent control options.
Think I'd notice that!GT03ROB said:
This was the sort of area I was looking at. So 33/month extra would increase my leccie bill by around 50%. Think I'd notice that!
Indeed! Think I'd notice that!Thanks for the real world experiences, much appreciated.
I'm starting to think that because we won't be in this house any longer than 2-3 years, UFH might be a waste for us currently. If we were staying here for the next 10 years plus, it might be worth considering the extra outlay and the ongoing running costs.
Now to tell Mrs Sarnie
Sarnie said:
GT03ROB said:
This was the sort of area I was looking at. So 33/month extra would increase my leccie bill by around 50%. Think I'd notice that!
Indeed! Think I'd notice that!Thanks for the real world experiences, much appreciated.
I'm starting to think that because we won't be in this house any longer than 2-3 years, UFH might be a waste for us currently. If we were staying here for the next 10 years plus, it might be worth considering the extra outlay and the ongoing running costs.
Now to tell Mrs Sarnie
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