London 1930s semi renovation
Discussion
Dave_ST220 said:
TA14 said:
First job: get a sledge hammer and remove that daft wall to the right of the drive before someone opens a car door into it. They've even put an expansion joint to the next to the gate pillar to make it easy 
The wall that looks like its retaining the front garden?Harry Flashman said:
Yep! On the list.
Lady F is querying this as it means getting rid of some nice plants, and some sort of weird brick landscaping circle thing that you can't see in the photos.
But being able to get 2 cars on the drive, in London, with space to spare is worth the potting the shrubs and losing the sacrificial altar thing, in my book.
No doubt that most of the better plants can be relocated to better positions in the garden anyway.Lady F is querying this as it means getting rid of some nice plants, and some sort of weird brick landscaping circle thing that you can't see in the photos.
But being able to get 2 cars on the drive, in London, with space to spare is worth the potting the shrubs and losing the sacrificial altar thing, in my book.
Old kitchen out, removal of walls and insertion of structural steels imminent in kitchen/utility. Utility/workshop will now be in former garage.
The photos, from my Blackberry, aren't great at showing the scale. Kitchen will be 7.9m x 5.8m (26ft x 19ft), which I think is a reasonable size for our purposes, although I would have like bigger, in an ideal world! It should, if we can remove that central wall entirely, or prop up steel with a post, allow a decent sized run of cabinets, worktop and an island with sink in it, as well as space on the other side for a dining table.
Before & after...
kitchen pre work 3 by baconrashers, on Flickr
Kitchen removed 2 by baconrashers, on Flickr
kitchen pre work by baconrashers, on Flickr
Kitchen removed by baconrashers, on Flickr
And a full suite of decent built-in appliances, which should mean a few thousand saved - original budget was to replace everything. I think Bosch/Insinkerator etc can last a few more years...
Appliances by baconrashers, on Flickr
The photos, from my Blackberry, aren't great at showing the scale. Kitchen will be 7.9m x 5.8m (26ft x 19ft), which I think is a reasonable size for our purposes, although I would have like bigger, in an ideal world! It should, if we can remove that central wall entirely, or prop up steel with a post, allow a decent sized run of cabinets, worktop and an island with sink in it, as well as space on the other side for a dining table.
Before & after...
kitchen pre work 3 by baconrashers, on FlickrKitchen removed 2 by baconrashers, on Flickrkitchen pre work by baconrashers, on FlickrKitchen removed by baconrashers, on FlickrAnd a full suite of decent built-in appliances, which should mean a few thousand saved - original budget was to replace everything. I think Bosch/Insinkerator etc can last a few more years...
Appliances by baconrashers, on FlickrEdited by Harry Flashman on Wednesday 2nd December 11:11
Harry Flashman said:
It should, if we can remove that central wall entirely, or prop up steel with a post, allow a decent sized run of cabinets, worktop and an island with sink in it, as well as space on the other side for a dining table.
If you mean remove the front to rear wall that's 3/4 gone already then that's quite easy structurally. I don't know what you're doing upstairs but there is currently a downstand beam because of the location of the doorway into bedroom 4.Thanks TA14 - I am hoping to avoid the necessity and expense of a full picture frame steel, but definitely wish to remove that wall. I guessed that a post holding the (otherwise very long - 6.5m) steel would be the way the engineer would want to go.
That said, that front-to-back wall is one of the original boundary walls to the house: another is the wall between the Utility and Dining room as seen on the plans (and as seen with a stud section, partially removed, in the photos - it butts onto the front-to-back wall). I think that this may cause complications, as we effectively have to put support for 2 walls in, if making the space open.
The outside of the Utility, "Dining Area" and Bedroom 4 in the plans are all a 1990s extension...so to my mind, proper support of the front-to-back and utility walls are pretty critical, as they are holding up quite a lot of the house!
Hoping that this can all be worked out, Would rather not be left with an ugly, T-shaped support in the middle of where we would like the island...
That said, that front-to-back wall is one of the original boundary walls to the house: another is the wall between the Utility and Dining room as seen on the plans (and as seen with a stud section, partially removed, in the photos - it butts onto the front-to-back wall). I think that this may cause complications, as we effectively have to put support for 2 walls in, if making the space open.
The outside of the Utility, "Dining Area" and Bedroom 4 in the plans are all a 1990s extension...so to my mind, proper support of the front-to-back and utility walls are pretty critical, as they are holding up quite a lot of the house!
Hoping that this can all be worked out, Would rather not be left with an ugly, T-shaped support in the middle of where we would like the island...
Harry Flashman said:
Thanks TA14 - I am hoping to avoid the necessity and expense of a full picture frame steel, but definitely wish to remove that wall. I guessed that a post holding the (otherwise very long - 6.5m) steel would be the way the engineer would want to go.
That said, that front-to-back wall is one of the original boundary walls to the house: another is the wall between the Utility and Dining room as seen on the plans (and as seen with a stud section, partially removed, in the photos - it butts onto the front-to-back wall). I think that this may cause complications, as we effectively have to put support for 2 walls in, if making the space open.
The outside of the Utility, "Dining Area" and Bedroom 4 in the plans are all a 1990s extension...so to my mind, proper support of the front-to-back and utility walls are pretty critical, as they are holding up quite a lot of the house!
Hoping that this can all be worked out, Would rather not be left with an ugly, T-shaped support in the middle of where we would like the island...
There's a limit to what you can see on estate agents drawings on the internet. What a householder needs is sufficient lateral support in both directions (f to r and side to side) as well as torsional stiffness. By and large this is provided by masonry and floors. Even with the beams that you want to put in you appear to have enough front to rear masonry but side to side may be more close cut. The good news is that steel is a lot stronger than masonry and the loss of strength can be countered by portal frames (whether goal posts or picture frames) albeit at a cost. 6.5m spans is kids play for your SE, a 40m span to carry a multi-storey car park over a bus station was somewhat more tricky. The above mentioned considerations are also why you should engage your SE to assess the needs of the overall stability of the building and not just a few calcs to design a beam for you.That said, that front-to-back wall is one of the original boundary walls to the house: another is the wall between the Utility and Dining room as seen on the plans (and as seen with a stud section, partially removed, in the photos - it butts onto the front-to-back wall). I think that this may cause complications, as we effectively have to put support for 2 walls in, if making the space open.
The outside of the Utility, "Dining Area" and Bedroom 4 in the plans are all a 1990s extension...so to my mind, proper support of the front-to-back and utility walls are pretty critical, as they are holding up quite a lot of the house!
Hoping that this can all be worked out, Would rather not be left with an ugly, T-shaped support in the middle of where we would like the island...
More destruction, in preparation for enlarging windows, and knocking through walls.
Plumbing exposed - 250litre Megaflo.
Old concrete balcony over the conservatory demolished (visible in first picture below), to make way for a glass balustrade. Better view of the garden from what will be Lady F's study. Of course, means garden will need sorting...
rear pre work by baconrashers, on Flickr
Plumbing exposed - 250litre Megaflo.
Old concrete balcony over the conservatory demolished (visible in first picture below), to make way for a glass balustrade. Better view of the garden from what will be Lady F's study. Of course, means garden will need sorting...
rear pre work by baconrashers, on FlickrEdited by Harry Flashman on Monday 14th December 15:06
It's got more than a hint of Arts & Crafts character to it. I'd be filling it up with William Morris, Voysey etc... been contemplating re-doing a room or two here in this rather nice Voysey paper: https://www.grahambrown.com/uk/product/50-777/voye...
The decorating firm founded by George Gilbert Scott Jr, George Frederick Bodley and Thomas Garner, Watts & Co (the name apparently a pun on "what's in a name"), is still going, and does a number of Arts & Crafts block-printed papers: http://watts1874.co.uk/
William Morris's company is also still going, as is Sanderson, although they seemingly no longer do Morris stuff as they did when I last decorated a house.
The rear facade of your property, particularly the fenestration, is sadly nothing like as pretty as the front...
The decorating firm founded by George Gilbert Scott Jr, George Frederick Bodley and Thomas Garner, Watts & Co (the name apparently a pun on "what's in a name"), is still going, and does a number of Arts & Crafts block-printed papers: http://watts1874.co.uk/
William Morris's company is also still going, as is Sanderson, although they seemingly no longer do Morris stuff as they did when I last decorated a house.
The rear facade of your property, particularly the fenestration, is sadly nothing like as pretty as the front...
Thank you - great to get leads and tips! I'm a big fan of natural materials, so exposed brick, wood and stone will be featuring inside, rather than super-sleek modernism. Arts & Crafts décor would definitely have its place.
That Voysey wallpaper definitely has a place in the (large) downstairs cloakroom. Entrance hall will have hip-high painted wood panelling - wall above that will remain plain to avoid too much fussiness. And some of those Watts curtains, full length over the bay window, above the parquet floor, will look fantastic. Shall investigate.
The rear is damned ugly, due to a nasty 1990s extension (great interior space, terrible exterior design)
Updated windows and doors on the rear will help - they will be black framed to make the glass areas appear bigger. The rear will be repainted in a non-white colour (likely a mid-to dark grey or olive green), and a living wall instituted if we can get one done for a decent price. Failing that, climbing plants on trellises (not ivy as I don't want to destroy my home!)
Garden will be landscaped too, with the upper area of concrete paving replaced with a lawn.
That Voysey wallpaper definitely has a place in the (large) downstairs cloakroom. Entrance hall will have hip-high painted wood panelling - wall above that will remain plain to avoid too much fussiness. And some of those Watts curtains, full length over the bay window, above the parquet floor, will look fantastic. Shall investigate.
The rear is damned ugly, due to a nasty 1990s extension (great interior space, terrible exterior design)
Updated windows and doors on the rear will help - they will be black framed to make the glass areas appear bigger. The rear will be repainted in a non-white colour (likely a mid-to dark grey or olive green), and a living wall instituted if we can get one done for a decent price. Failing that, climbing plants on trellises (not ivy as I don't want to destroy my home!)
Garden will be landscaped too, with the upper area of concrete paving replaced with a lawn.
Edited by Harry Flashman on Tuesday 22 December 12:56
Climbing roses are always good. If you want to soften the back of the property, rather than dark paint, I suggest tile-hanging - you've got a nice tiled half-mansard at the front, so continuing with that theme would work well, you could put insulation under the tiles and it helps provide a framework on which to train climbing plants.
Kitchen progress.
Left a steel post in the middle as doing a full picture frame was not worth the extra cost and effort. Big space, but slightly annoying that we could not get the beams higher above the post and open it all up vertically a bit more. Again - the extra work required would have been too extreme, disruptive and costly: there was some sort of weird structure in the extension, just below floor level in some of the supporting walls, and engineers insisted on the new steels being where they are in the photos. With the floor dug down, there will be plenty of headroom though.
Also note the rubbish pitched roof on the old extension. Being replaced completely with something safer, actually insulated, and lots of triple glazed glass in it.
DSC_0507 by baconrashers, on Flickr
DSC_0512 by baconrashers, on Flickr
DSC_0508 by baconrashers, on Flickr
Left a steel post in the middle as doing a full picture frame was not worth the extra cost and effort. Big space, but slightly annoying that we could not get the beams higher above the post and open it all up vertically a bit more. Again - the extra work required would have been too extreme, disruptive and costly: there was some sort of weird structure in the extension, just below floor level in some of the supporting walls, and engineers insisted on the new steels being where they are in the photos. With the floor dug down, there will be plenty of headroom though.
Also note the rubbish pitched roof on the old extension. Being replaced completely with something safer, actually insulated, and lots of triple glazed glass in it.
DSC_0507 by baconrashers, on FlickrDSC_0512 by baconrashers, on FlickrDSC_0508 by baconrashers, on FlickrEdited by Harry Flashman on Sunday 24th January 23:53
My original, very scientific measurements for the kitchen. I have since done this with a great deal more precision! I designed the new kitchen myself, and am ordering the cabinets from www.solidwoodkitchencabinets.co.uk. Surprisingly reasonable, and having visited their showroom, the kit is really nice quality and beautifully put together. Puts to shame a bespoke kitchen company who wanted 3times the price plus fitting. Similarly John Lewis who quoted over 40k for cabinets alone!
Cabinets for 7.4m kitchen and 3m x 1m island being ordered this week. Granite slab for surfaces selected and reserved. Trick induction and gas hob ordered. Double Belfast sink for island has arrived. Tonnes more to buy including all the Limestone flooring..
Cabinets for 7.4m kitchen and 3m x 1m island being ordered this week. Granite slab for surfaces selected and reserved. Trick induction and gas hob ordered. Double Belfast sink for island has arrived. Tonnes more to buy including all the Limestone flooring..
Edited by Harry Flashman on Monday 25th January 00:06
More destruction.
Knocking through into conservatory and floors being dug out.
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Crap conservatory, built badly onto party wall. Distorting without proper support - glass box replacement will be the one here. I think
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
New roof for what was utility room (now part of enlarged kitchen) to replace rubbish old roof that was bodged and uninsulated. Apologies for dark pic.
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Wood floors!
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Ceilings down in kitchen, for electrical and insulation. Toying with leaving bottoms of beams exposed in their distressed state as I have done in my other house. Lighting design for LED spots, pendant lighting over island, cabinet/counter lighting in kitchen, as well as garden lighting, all to be on LightwaveRF automated controls. Looked at Lutron, but needlessly expensive and not so easy to replace if problematic.
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
Knocking through into conservatory and floors being dug out.
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrUntitled by baconrashers, on FlickrUntitled by baconrashers, on FlickrCrap conservatory, built badly onto party wall. Distorting without proper support - glass box replacement will be the one here. I think
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrNew roof for what was utility room (now part of enlarged kitchen) to replace rubbish old roof that was bodged and uninsulated. Apologies for dark pic.
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrWood floors!
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrUntitled by baconrashers, on FlickrCeilings down in kitchen, for electrical and insulation. Toying with leaving bottoms of beams exposed in their distressed state as I have done in my other house. Lighting design for LED spots, pendant lighting over island, cabinet/counter lighting in kitchen, as well as garden lighting, all to be on LightwaveRF automated controls. Looked at Lutron, but needlessly expensive and not so easy to replace if problematic.
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrGassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff