Drayton valve 'sticking'
Discussion
S plan system. One of the two port valves is sticking. The valves are only about 4 years old.
What happens is the CH gets up to temp, 'stat switches off, but system still runs.
First found out when I came home and realised that the CH pump was running whilst boiler was off, and the timer was past the all off time for the night.
If Itap wallop the valve cover, it switches off, all is fine and it returns to normal operation next time the stat calls for heat. I don't know if the boiler switches off due to over heat, or if the boiler is switched off by the 'stat.
Is this a body or motor problem? Are the motor units user serviceable?
What happens is the CH gets up to temp, 'stat switches off, but system still runs.
First found out when I came home and realised that the CH pump was running whilst boiler was off, and the timer was past the all off time for the night.
If I
Is this a body or motor problem? Are the motor units user serviceable?
That's the one.
I have this also.
They are renowned as crap by those in the trade.
They stick all the time.
I asked on here a question as to why my heating came on at very odd hours
After some good advice from members on here.
The advice I got was to replace it with a Honeywell unit.
You will have to drain your system.
In short the Drayton is junk.
I have this also.
They are renowned as crap by those in the trade.
They stick all the time.
I asked on here a question as to why my heating came on at very odd hours
After some good advice from members on here.
The advice I got was to replace it with a Honeywell unit.
You will have to drain your system.
In short the Drayton is junk.
Troubleatmill said:
That's the one.
I have this also.
They are renowned as crap by those in the trade.
They stick all the time.
I wouldn't say that's true, actually. I fit Drayton valves and they're decent. I used to fit Honeywell and saw failures within a year on some of them. The Draytons I rarely get problems with and they have the distinct advantage that you can change just the head instead of the entire body.I have this also.
They are renowned as crap by those in the trade.
They stick all the time.
Whatever you do, do not procrastinate. Get it fixed quickly.
It took me a while in our house to work out that one of ours (can't recall the make) had failed. Fixing it made a MASSIVE difference to our energy costs. Especially over winter (nearly a third reduction in oil utilisation).
It took me a while in our house to work out that one of ours (can't recall the make) had failed. Fixing it made a MASSIVE difference to our energy costs. Especially over winter (nearly a third reduction in oil utilisation).
UPDATE. Grrrr. it's doing it again. CH pump running and boiler cycling even though all controls are calling 'off'.
Haven't got round to tapping each valve to see which one isn't switching off yet. And I remember getting to the wiring centre is an arse. And I'm stiffer now than I was at 69! May have to pay someone this time.
Haven't got round to tapping each valve to see which one isn't switching off yet. And I remember getting to the wiring centre is an arse. And I'm stiffer now than I was at 69! May have to pay someone this time.
Just replaced the microswitch in our ZA6.
They get sticky but are an off the shelf part if your that way inclined. At £3, a lot cheaper than a £70 new head. Fairly simple solder job but make sure you dont loose the springs. Also these bodies age, the plastic cracks and the springs detach, you can hook them back through the holes in the body where the hooks for the springs sit.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-switches/1616...
They get sticky but are an off the shelf part if your that way inclined. At £3, a lot cheaper than a £70 new head. Fairly simple solder job but make sure you dont loose the springs. Also these bodies age, the plastic cracks and the springs detach, you can hook them back through the holes in the body where the hooks for the springs sit.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-switches/1616...
Edited by Gary C on Saturday 19th November 10:11
Paul Drawmer said:
UPDATE. Grrrr. it's doing it again. CH pump running and boiler cycling even though all controls are calling 'off'.
Haven't got round to tapping each valve to see which one isn't switching off yet. And I remember getting to the wiring centre is an arse. And I'm stiffer now than I was at 69! May have to pay someone this time.
So it seems you have mistakenly diagnosed the wrong head as the one keeping the system running.Haven't got round to tapping each valve to see which one isn't switching off yet. And I remember getting to the wiring centre is an arse. And I'm stiffer now than I was at 69! May have to pay someone this time.
Either get another new actuator and replace the other one, or if you've got the old one, put that on.
What the boiler out of interest?
Lincsls1 said:
So it seems you have mistakenly diagnosed the wrong head as the one keeping the system running.
Either get another new actuator and replace the other one, or if you've got the old one, put that on.
What the boiler out of interest?
Note, its been 7 years since he replaced the head, so I think its safe to assume he got the right one, just that its failed again.Either get another new actuator and replace the other one, or if you've got the old one, put that on.
What the boiler out of interest?
Paul Drawmer said:
Update. Replaced actuator only this morning. Oddly enough, the valve body inc actuator is cheaper than actuator only - mad.
swapped the tops over, replaced the new wires one by one for the old one, control restored. Thanks PH for the info.
If the valve is sticking it could be burning out the actuator. swapped the tops over, replaced the new wires one by one for the old one, control restored. Thanks PH for the info.
PositronicRay said:
Paul Drawmer said:
Update. Replaced actuator only this morning. Oddly enough, the valve body inc actuator is cheaper than actuator only - mad.
swapped the tops over, replaced the new wires one by one for the old one, control restored. Thanks PH for the info.
If the valve is sticking it could be burning out the actuator. swapped the tops over, replaced the new wires one by one for the old one, control restored. Thanks PH for the info.
Gary C said:
Just replaced the microswitch in our ZA6.
They get sticky but are an off the shelf part if your that way inclined. At £3, a lot cheaper than a £70 new head. Fairly simple solder job but make sure you dont loose the springs. Also these bodies age, the plastic cracks and the springs detach, you can hook them back through the holes in the body where the hooks for the springs sit.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-switches/1616...
That's interesting, thank you.They get sticky but are an off the shelf part if your that way inclined. At £3, a lot cheaper than a £70 new head. Fairly simple solder job but make sure you dont loose the springs. Also these bodies age, the plastic cracks and the springs detach, you can hook them back through the holes in the body where the hooks for the springs sit.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/micro-switches/1616...
Edited by Gary C on Saturday 19th November 10:11
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