2nd Opinion on Lintel for Patio Door

2nd Opinion on Lintel for Patio Door

Author
Discussion

andy43

9,702 posts

254 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Internal pic is also showing 'flat' bar - I'd hope it's a T section steel.
Some red oxide would be nice as well as proper 150 end bearing - balancing it on half of a half brick is asking for cracks.
Class act wink

evo97

Original Poster:

126 posts

237 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Well just had the company on the blower chasing up payment.
He's coming to inspect in the morning but has insisted flat iron lintol normal practice??!!??

I really am not trying to hold up paying the company but I know once money has been exchanged the work won't be rectified. I've already paid £700 and there is a balance of £700 to pay. The price for the lintel was £264 but I'm not happy with the lintol used or the install of the lintel.
Also the patio isn't fixed ar the top as in bolted/screwed like the sides is this also normal practice. Probably due to the steel that's there! The lintol also hasn't seen no rust protection or mortar just expanding foam and clear silicone.


andy43

9,702 posts

254 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
evo97 said:
Well just had the company on the blower chasing up payment.
He's coming to inspect in the morning but has insisted flat iron lintol normal practice??!!??

I really am not trying to hold up paying the company but I know once money has been exchanged the work won't be rectified. I've already paid £700 and there is a balance of £700 to pay. The price for the lintel was £264 but I'm not happy with the lintol used or the install of the lintel.
Also the patio isn't fixed ar the top as in bolted/screwed like the sides is this also normal practice. Probably due to the steel that's there! The lintol also hasn't seen no rust protection or mortar just expanding foam and clear silicone.
Flat iron is not going to hold up anything. It needs to have a vertical element. Outer leaf may not be holding your roof up, but there's a lot of bricks up there, and they WILL move. Slidey-slidey has a central post, but I bet it's just sat on a plastic 150mm cill. Won't be sliding for long.
So your pics are showing the completed job? rofl

Muppet32

173 posts

180 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Flat iron plate is definitely not standard practice and completely unsuitable. It wouldn't even support its own weight over that distance.

If it's RSA (Angle) or Tee (very unlikely) then, as a lintel it would be ok. However, the bearings are not sufficient.

You can't really get away with less than 100mm at each end. And that 100mm should be a full bedded bearing, not teetering on the edge of a brick missing half its rear face with expanding foam covering the fact there's fück all there.

Really, they need to supply a new piece of 150x100 RSA so it's long enough for a decent bearing on each end and also replace the bearing bricks at each end with complete bricks. They may not be able to find matching bricks and the brickwork patching will always show, but that's how it should have been done.

It probably won't fall down, as it is, so how you want to play it - is up to you smile

evo97

Original Poster:

126 posts

237 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
andy43 said:
Flat iron is not going to hold up anything. It needs to have a vertical element. Outer leaf may not be holding your roof up, but there's a lot of bricks up there, and they WILL move. Slidey-slidey has a central post, but I bet it's just sat on a plastic 150mm cill. Won't be sliding for long.
So your pics are showing the completed job? rofl
No pictures are from yesterday. I did ask them to not bother sealing the gap between frame and brickwork as I'm going to get the brickwork rendered/plastered (plasterer mentioned this as easier to get a angle bead in) but that isn't going to happen until I know there won't be any brickwork movement and going by the lintol used there will be!

Edited by evo97 on Thursday 11th February 17:18

evo97

Original Poster:

126 posts

237 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Muppet32 said:
Flat iron plate is definitely not standard practice and completely unsuitable. It wouldn't even support its own weight over that distance.

If it's RSA (Angle) or Tee (very unlikely) then, as a lintel it would be ok. However, the bearings are not sufficient.

You can't really get away with less than 100mm at each end. And that 100mm should be a full bedded bearing, not teetering on the edge of a brick missing half its rear face with expanding foam covering the fact there's fück all there.

Really, they need to supply a new piece of 150x100 RSA so it's long enough for a decent bearing on each end and also replace the bearing bricks at each end with complete bricks. They may not be able to find matching bricks and the brickwork patching will always show, but that's how it should have been done.

It probably won't fall down, as it is, so how you want to play it - is up to you smile
Thanks again for all your input gents.
Tomorrow I can fire all this back to him. To be honest I knew deep down it wasn't correct that's why I posted a thread on here. At least I've been educated and now can insist on a correct lintol installed with a minimum 100mm bearing on brickwork.

Thanks again!

Spudler

3,985 posts

196 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
evo97 said:
TA14 said:
With a screwdriver/prodder and a torch can't you tell what it is?
Yes it's straight....it doesn't angle back into cavity? But the replies on here seem to suggest it's angled?
Only because we'd never believe anyone could be so retarded as to slide in a flat steel...could they? smile

evo97

Original Poster:

126 posts

237 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Spudler said:
Only because we'd never believe anyone could be so retarded as to slide in a flat steel...could they? smile
In this day and age nothing surprises me mate. Thing is as soon as I mentioned the lintel and silicone to the manager he wasn't surprised at all and sort of passed it off as normal and common practice. I think he's in for a shock in the morning when he's expecting to collect 700 notes!
I'm a mechanic and have seen some toe curling repairs done on cars through the years also.

roofer

5,136 posts

211 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
£264 for a bit of flat bar...deduct £700 from his price for corrective works.

astroarcadia

1,710 posts

200 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
Remove frame.
Remove plate.
Chop out end bricks and replace with engineering brick.
Install 150x100 RSA with min 100mm bearing.
Pack
Re-fix frame.
Render.

don'tbesilly

13,932 posts

163 months

Thursday 11th February 2016
quotequote all
I'd be putting a call into your local council and ask if a Building Control officer could pop around and view that abomination of an install.I'll guarantee it would be condemned.

Even if the flat plate turns out to be something more suitable, there is still so much wrong with the work you've had done.

I'd let the company know you'll pay once the BCO has viewed and accepted the work done, he'll change his tune fairly sharply.

brman

1,233 posts

109 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
don'tbesilly said:
I'd be putting a call into your local council and ask if a Building Control officer could pop around and view that abomination of an install.I'll guarantee it would be condemned.

Even if the flat plate turns out to be something more suitable, there is still so much wrong with the work you've had done.

I'd let the company know you'll pay once the BCO has viewed and accepted the work done, he'll change his tune fairly sharply.
I think that is a good idea.
There is some guidance on the building regulation requirements when replacing windows in the following link. The bottom bit about structural safety is worth reading.
http://www.waveney.gov.uk/site/scripts/documents_i...


btw. If you want an idea of the sort of lintels that could be used you are looking at single leaf lintels like at the bottom of this page:
http://iglintels.com/lintels/standard-lintels/sing...
either that or a RSA as has already been mentioned
http://polsteel.co.uk/steel-guide/steel-sections/r...

Either way you building control might comment on what should be used or they might just tell you you need to use someone qualified to assess the structural loads. That doesn't sound like your current window people given the comments so far.......

evo97

Original Poster:

126 posts

237 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks again you lovely lot! You educated me and After a discussion that kept going around in circles they are going to instal a concrete lintol.

AlmostUseful

3,282 posts

200 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
How much for the flat iron?!?

When I did our window last year I bought a birtley lintel 2,7m long from my local building supplier for about £90, and that's a 200mm tall square section for the inner skin and a flat bar for the outer skin, all zinc coated for protection.

Spudler

3,985 posts

196 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
evo97 said:
Thanks again you lovely lot! You educated me and After a discussion that kept going around in circles they are going to instal a concrete lintol.
Well, it's a result.

It will be perfectly adequate, so long as you have the bearing either side.
Contrary to what's been suggested, 100 is not acceptable over that span.

Just keep your eye on them.

Busa mav

2,562 posts

154 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
And if it's pre stressed , make sure it's not put in upside down

Alucidnation

16,810 posts

170 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
evo97 said:
h8tax said:
Listen to this man - he knows what he's talking about and you can see from the original photo its an angle, not a flat bar. The bearings look too small, and yes the bearing bricks need replacing. It is a bit bodgy looking though with the foam etc. I assume it was a very cheap quote.


Edited by h8tax on Thursday 11th February 14:06
Yes it was a cheap price.
/thread

paulwirral

3,132 posts

135 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
I wouldn't worry to much , the company that installed it are fensa registered so you can declare it when you sell the house and it won't hold a sale up as they meet and cover all building control regulations , they should also be insured for any comebacks so it will never be your problem !

bobtail4x4

3,715 posts

109 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
paulwirral said:
I wouldn't worry to much , the company that installed it are fensa registered so you can declare it when you sell the house and it won't hold a sale up as they meet and cover all building control regulations , they should also be insured for any comebacks so it will never be your problem !
was that tongue in cheek?

Busa mav

2,562 posts

154 months

Sunday 14th February 2016
quotequote all
bobtail4x4 said:
was that tongue in cheek?
I was thinking just the same.

Fensa is just a meaningless disgrace with no interest in who is operating under their name , or what they are actually getting away with.