How many nails in a feather board fence?
Discussion
Oh wise PH DIYers or pros, I come in search of advice.
I'm doing about 15m of fencing next weekend and I've got all the timber ready, I know how to put the fence up generally, but I've read a lot of conflicting advice on nail position for the feather edge boards. They're 125mm boards.
All the guide images I've seen show the nails running through both the thick and the thin edge of the boards, so each board gets 2 fixings across its width at every rail interface. Yet the forums I've been reading suggest to offset the nail so it goes a little more centrally and avoids tacking the thinner section of the board to the rail, this is to allow movement in the boards. I'm also led to believe it will prevent splitting.
My concern of the second option is that the board isn't really supported at the point the nail goes through, so the outer board might split, or that it will sort of flex inwards and make the board concave.
Seeing as PH tends to have the more, errr, professional side of the practical demographic I figured I'd just go with whatever you guys say.
I'm erring to using the single nail and getting it as close to the back board as possible, which I guess I could do with a timber guide, but I could be swayed either way with some reasonable arguments.
Ta
I'm doing about 15m of fencing next weekend and I've got all the timber ready, I know how to put the fence up generally, but I've read a lot of conflicting advice on nail position for the feather edge boards. They're 125mm boards.
All the guide images I've seen show the nails running through both the thick and the thin edge of the boards, so each board gets 2 fixings across its width at every rail interface. Yet the forums I've been reading suggest to offset the nail so it goes a little more centrally and avoids tacking the thinner section of the board to the rail, this is to allow movement in the boards. I'm also led to believe it will prevent splitting.
My concern of the second option is that the board isn't really supported at the point the nail goes through, so the outer board might split, or that it will sort of flex inwards and make the board concave.
Seeing as PH tends to have the more, errr, professional side of the practical demographic I figured I'd just go with whatever you guys say.
I'm erring to using the single nail and getting it as close to the back board as possible, which I guess I could do with a timber guide, but I could be swayed either way with some reasonable arguments.
Ta
There are some decent videos on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StPgj0b5yuw (and others)
I went for the non-overlapping nail because that's what the fence i was replacing had. It seems pretty secure.
One slight problem was that unless I drilled a small pilot hole I tended to split the featherboard with the nail. I ended up borrowing a nail gun - made the job a lot easier.
Try to but dry featherboard. It's heavy and unpleasant to handle when it's wet.
I went for the non-overlapping nail because that's what the fence i was replacing had. It seems pretty secure.
One slight problem was that unless I drilled a small pilot hole I tended to split the featherboard with the nail. I ended up borrowing a nail gun - made the job a lot easier.
Try to but dry featherboard. It's heavy and unpleasant to handle when it's wet.
The few times I've done it I've gone for the 1 nail through 1 board option to allow for movement without splitting, the timber sold for feather edge fencing not usually being of the best quality. This also has the advantage of making it easier to replace any damaged boards. Make sure to use some decent nails, these are pricy but durable if you're hand nailing SS ring shank nails Look for hot dipped galvanized as a minimum.
When I do feather edge fencing with a mate of mine (who is a fencing contractor), we do 25 mm overlap and nail through the thick end as close to catching the next board as possible, without actually catching it. This allows the boards to move a little with changes in moisture content and reduces the splitting risk (although the risk is quite small).
If you want to know the number of nails, the nail centres are 100mm, with three nails per board.
so 15m / 0.1m x 3nails = 450 nails. Call it 500 for spares/dropped/broken.
If you have to nail close to the end of a board and are worried about splitting you can blunt the nail point slightly by putting it head side down on something solid and hitting the point with a hammer.
If you want to know the number of nails, the nail centres are 100mm, with three nails per board.
so 15m / 0.1m x 3nails = 450 nails. Call it 500 for spares/dropped/broken.
If you have to nail close to the end of a board and are worried about splitting you can blunt the nail point slightly by putting it head side down on something solid and hitting the point with a hammer.
Well I'm at odds with most of you then, I screw the boards in using the Screwfix double thread no drill screws. Sort of gold in colour. Work perfectly and if you do get a split board, easy to replace at a later stage.
Or like mine now where I made the gates too short it's a doddle to unscrew them and refix longer boards.
Or like mine now where I made the gates too short it's a doddle to unscrew them and refix longer boards.
Righto chaps, timber was bought in June last year from a timber mill/manufacturer in Taunton, so hopefully not the crap you'd get from the sheds.
I did half the garden last year with their panels and they've been fine, so I imagine it's all the same quality as they make it all.
The boards and posts have been in the shed since I bought them so they'll be dry when I put the fence up next weekend. Just need to get some nails and I'm off.
They're all pre stained/treated anyway, so I won't do anything additional as they're a great colour.
Will get about 600/650 nails and see how we go. Was contemplating a nail gun but I've got a habit of starting and then not finishing something so don't want additional hire charges. 50mm nails shouldn't be too problematic to get in with a hammer!
Cheers all. Think I'll go with the single nail per interface and see how it holds up. It's going to have 4 rails actually so should be pretty secure. Base , two intermediate ones and then a top rail for the capping.
I did half the garden last year with their panels and they've been fine, so I imagine it's all the same quality as they make it all.
The boards and posts have been in the shed since I bought them so they'll be dry when I put the fence up next weekend. Just need to get some nails and I'm off.
They're all pre stained/treated anyway, so I won't do anything additional as they're a great colour.
Will get about 600/650 nails and see how we go. Was contemplating a nail gun but I've got a habit of starting and then not finishing something so don't want additional hire charges. 50mm nails shouldn't be too problematic to get in with a hammer!
Cheers all. Think I'll go with the single nail per interface and see how it holds up. It's going to have 4 rails actually so should be pretty secure. Base , two intermediate ones and then a top rail for the capping.
ColinM50 said:
Well I'm at odds with most of you then, I screw the boards in using the Screwfix double thread no drill screws. Sort of gold in colour. Work perfectly and if you do get a split board, easy to replace at a later stage.
Or like mine now where I made the gates too short it's a doddle to unscrew them and refix longer boards.
Well I don't plan to make it too short, but I like the idea of it being easily fixable. No splitting with this screws? I'll be going about 1.5" from the top of the boards when I screw to the top rail which I gather is generally a bit split prone.Or like mine now where I made the gates too short it's a doddle to unscrew them and refix longer boards.
ColinM50 said:
Well I'm at odds with most of you then, I screw the boards in using the Screwfix double thread no drill screws. Sort of gold in colour. Work perfectly and if you do get a split board, easy to replace at a later stage.
Or like mine now where I made the gates too short it's a doddle to unscrew them and refix longer boards.
I like the idea of using screws.Or like mine now where I made the gates too short it's a doddle to unscrew them and refix longer boards.
I think that I'd rather have used screws than nails if I hadn't had a nailgun. Much less effort wielding an electric screwdriver.
Nail gun does make it a very quick job though
One nail (40mm galavanised nails will do) into each Arris rail is enough (so top middle and bottom rail assuming 6ft fence) and a bit of an overlap between each featherboard should be fine. On the nail length I would not get ones that are too long as you risk having them sticking out the other side of the Arris rail. I say that but have noticed that northerners seem to nail a bit of 4 x 2 horizontal to the upright vertical post and then nail the featherboarding into that which I thinks looks a mess. Proper morticed posts look a lot more professional.
Post up some finished pictures!!!
Pip
Post up some finished pictures!!!
Pip
Will be using Cant rails rather than arris, I'm tempted to just face fix them to the posts, but equally i think I might go between them to keep the posts visible which will tie in better with the panels I have further down the garden.
You reckon 40mm nails are enough then? The boards are what, 25mm thick at the thickest point and there'll be a small gap under the board so that leaves 10mm into the Cant rail. Is that right?
You reckon 40mm nails are enough then? The boards are what, 25mm thick at the thickest point and there'll be a small gap under the board so that leaves 10mm into the Cant rail. Is that right?
25mm thick .... an imperial INCH....?????... is that some sort of foreign import of feather boarding???? Are you sure they have not sold you some noise abatement boarding nicked from the motorway.
It is normally about 12mm thick. Dest stick to 50mm nails then.
I hope you post up some pictures.
Pip
It is normally about 12mm thick. Dest stick to 50mm nails then.
I hope you post up some pictures.
Pip
Hmm, looked about an inch to me the last time I saw the timber... I suppose it's possible that it's half inch, but it certainly looked thicker than 12mm.
Posts are treated with whatever it all gets treated with. I'm not too fussed though as its being bolted to existing concrete posts so it won't be in the ground.
Posts are treated with whatever it all gets treated with. I'm not too fussed though as its being bolted to existing concrete posts so it won't be in the ground.
I bought treated posts, featherboarding, arris rails et cetera but usually dip the posts in creosote for a while so they can soak a bit more up.
Half an inch that is settled then 12.5mm. No wonder they looked bigger than 12mm (ha ha). Actually you are probably closer to the truth as Wickes shows theirs as 22mm. The bottom line is though you are not nailing the thickest part (possibly me in this case). More like half way along.
I will have to check mine. I only did a 3ft high fence last time and 40mm nails are more than enough. It is more likely to blow down completely than individual pieces of board coming off unless of course it is being used as a goal for your boys - ?
Best of luck. I look forward to seeing the finished photographs.
Pip
Half an inch that is settled then 12.5mm. No wonder they looked bigger than 12mm (ha ha). Actually you are probably closer to the truth as Wickes shows theirs as 22mm. The bottom line is though you are not nailing the thickest part (possibly me in this case). More like half way along.
I will have to check mine. I only did a 3ft high fence last time and 40mm nails are more than enough. It is more likely to blow down completely than individual pieces of board coming off unless of course it is being used as a goal for your boys - ?
Best of luck. I look forward to seeing the finished photographs.
Pip
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