How much do you need to spend on a chainsaw?

[anonymous-user]

I would go for a stihl 362c, bigger than a 260 which although it is a good saw they favor the smaller bar (i use a 12 inch on mine) the new 362's are very light and will handle a bigger bar just fine.

[anonymous-user]

Missed the thread title slightly, around £560 is what i would be spending in your situation. If you arent using it every day the stihl will last you a very long time, i find the new m tronic stuff works great aswell, no need to tinker with carbs or knacker your arms starting it from cold

[Muncher]

Picked up the 263 on Friday and I've been having problems with it, it cuts out very frequently, I was using it yesterday and it would only manage 2 or 3 cuts before stalling all the time.

I can't figure out what I am doing wrong, new petrol, accurate 50:1 mix as specified and the chain isn't overly tight, but it's very frustrating.

[V8RX7]

Take a look in the manual - sounds like the carb needs setting there are two simple screws (assuming it's a manual setting model)

[dickymint]

V8RX7 said:

Take a look in the manual - sounds like the carb needs setting there are two simple screws (assuming it's a manual setting model)

Or is it three?

[guindilias]

Probably two - low idle mix (which is why it is stalling) and a high speed mix. Find out which is which and adjust to suit - get it good and hot, then up the low idle screw to the point where it is running happily, but not moving the chain (brake off).
The high speed screw is a matter of listening to it - plenty of Youtube vids about it!

[guindilias]

dickymint said:

I just use a Dremel to grind the rakers down lower.

It's a totally different tooth profile - grinding the rakers too low does cut faster, but it also increases vibration, "grabbiness", and makes it more likely to kick back.

[dickymint]

guindilias said:

Probably two - low idle mix (which is why it is stalling) and a high speed mix. Find out which is which and adjust to suit - get it good and hot, then up the low idle screw to the point where it is running happily, but not moving the chain (brake off).
The high speed screw is a matter of listening to it - plenty of Youtube vids about it!

There are three on the 236 as with most chainsaws.

L for low level RPM

H for high level RPM

T for idle speed adjustment

Muncher said:

Picked up the 263 on Friday and I've been having problems with it, it cuts out very frequently, I was using it yesterday and it would only manage 2 or 3 cuts before stalling all the time.

I can't figure out what I am doing wrong, new petrol, accurate 50:1 mix as specified and the chain isn't overly tight, but it's very frustrating.

I'm assuming you made a typo and actually bought a Husqvarna 236 and that it's brand new? If so I'd take it back under warranty.

Yes you can try and tune it yourself but first you will have to buy the 'anti customer tamper proof' splined tool. Chainsaw manufacturers (by law I think) have to make it hard for the general public to adjust these carbs due to eco loony emissions standards! indeed even with the correct tool the high and low screws are fitted with limiter caps so that you can't adjust them out of spec!! These caps can easily be removed though but you will be breaking your warranty if you remove these.

Trust me unless you have tuned a chainsaw (or other 2 stroke carb) many times before you will struggle to get it right without many frustrating and time consuming attempts. It's a fiddly job faffing around trying to keep the engine running whilst tweaking the carb screws.

Guindilias no doubt knows how to do it but His explanation is not correct - it can't be if you have three adjustment screws. He is correct about tuning "by ear" as this is how most experienced users do it but it does take a trained ear to listen for the point at which the engine starts to four stroke then back it off.

I'm not trying to scare you off but you can do a lot of damage if you run it too lean at above the recommended RPM at full throttle. 9000 rpm being max for your model.

I've taken the guess work out of doing it with a cracking IPhone App for just £6 that measures RPM quite accurately when you get used to using it.

Edited by dickymint on Tuesday 3rd May 10:00

[Muncher]

It's going back to the shop and they can sort it out!

[dickymint]

5ohmustang said:

Not sure if they sell them in the UK but Oregon chainsaws have a self sharpening feature that is highly rated.

Indeed they do but only on a limited range

[guindilias]

The "Powersharp"? I have it on a couple of my MS200T top-handlers, it's ace. Expensive the first time to get all the kit, but nothing is better than being able to sharpen your chain in about 5 seconds flat - while up a tree!

[Ej74]

Just bought a cheap Sovereign Petrol Chainsaw from Homebase 65 quid

Seems ok so far - have had to call technical support a couple of times as I'm a novice !
In reality if it completes the job at hand I'm happy and it will be sold on

[aspender]

Ej74 said:

In reality if it completes the job without losing a hand I'm happy and it will be sold on

Fixed that for you