Discussion
Simpo Two said:
thebraketester said:
Thats good to hear. My neighbour is recommending shiplap too over T&G
How about cedar shingles over T&G? Not the cheapest option but I think they look nicely arboreal and cosy. They also last for several decades.You have to watch out using plasterboard as your inside skin as the timber structure has a tendency to expand and contract a lot more than plasterboard will, leaving you with cracks, especially where the walls meet the ceiling. Log cabin manufacturers often use a metal channel walling system to isolate the p/b from the wooden structure.
Obviously you could consider some form of timber cladding inside too - painted, stained etc.
I priced the construction of a decent quality insulated cabin for a customer of mine. In the end he went conventionally brick built as the log cabin was knocking on the door of 2/3rd price... I built the brick one so didn't care!
Obviously you could consider some form of timber cladding inside too - painted, stained etc.
I priced the construction of a decent quality insulated cabin for a customer of mine. In the end he went conventionally brick built as the log cabin was knocking on the door of 2/3rd price... I built the brick one so didn't care!
Muppet32 said:
You have to watch out using plasterboard as your inside skin as the timber structure has a tendency to expand and contract a lot more than plasterboard will, leaving you with cracks, especially where the walls meet the ceiling. Log cabin manufacturers often use a metal channel walling system to isolate the p/b from the wooden structure.
Obviously you could consider some form of timber cladding inside too - painted, stained etc.
Good point. I had not considered that. I think brick build is out of the question due to planning permission?Obviously you could consider some form of timber cladding inside too - painted, stained etc.
Might be worth looking at this stuff for base - https://swiftfoundations.co.uk/ecobase/
Not to the same scale, but I put a playhouse on it and it's been solid!
Not to the same scale, but I put a playhouse on it and it's been solid!
thebraketester said:
No. Also brick it gonna get expensive.
Ive just read that the max size I can build is 15sqrm floor before I have to get PP. 7*4m would need PP then :-/
Check out the planning portal , you can build bigger than 15m2 without planning permission under permitted development (observing maximum heights and distances from boundaries). Over 15m2 may be subject to building regs but only in certain situations that you can plan to avoid.Ive just read that the max size I can build is 15sqrm floor before I have to get PP. 7*4m would need PP then :-/
I'm hoping to undertake a similar project, well, it is on the very long list of things to do!
thebraketester said:
Sounds like the sort of plan we have. Double skin with insulation and a few sheets of plasterboard.
We are Herts so average weather conditions.
So we a thinking that a traditional Frame and TG&/Shiplap exterior would probably be a better way to go?
Thanks
Plasterboard or drywall will take awake the rustic character of a log cabin. I am not opposed if the drywall has studs so you can add tongue and grove wooden slats.We are Herts so average weather conditions.
So we a thinking that a traditional Frame and TG&/Shiplap exterior would probably be a better way to go?
Thanks
However due to the expanding and contracting nature of the wood, real logs will eventually have checks that you should fill with log builder or perma checkmate. The caulk is available in different colors and expands/contracts with the logs. Another downside is if you have carpenter bees in your area, during spring and late summer they will bore holes in the logs to hatch their babies. I walk around my cabin regularly to take care of them.
A proper log cabin is high maintainence, but well worth it if you ask me.
Brick is less maintainence, but it does not have the charm of a true cabin.
getting close to finishing mine,i have built it with 95x45 cls,plywood lined inside,osb board outside then building paper,straped then vertical cedar,kinspan insulation for the floor and glasswool for the walls/ceiling.
essential tools are the bench saw and a nail gun
using pasterboard outside doesnt seem a good idea,i have gone with plywood,should be dry enough with heat generated by the sun through the glass,i hope
essential tools are the bench saw and a nail gun
using pasterboard outside doesnt seem a good idea,i have gone with plywood,should be dry enough with heat generated by the sun through the glass,i hope
We have decided against plasterboard inside now due to the mentioned moisture issues. We are going to use, thick marine ply and paint it. We could even ship lap the internal walls too i suppose.
Some of the spec is thus far. (not in order of construction)
~6x3.3m base out of 45x120mm treated timber with 25mm Celotex between the floor joists. and rockwool on top... then 18mm OSB to make floor. Divided into a 4x3.3m studio and 2x3.3mm shed
~Shell constructed from 38x140 CLS. 25mm Celotex in between batons the packed with rockwool.
~Breathable membrane wrap the entire structure.
~Shiplap exterior walls.
~Roof out of 38x140 CLS (maybe treated timber not sure). again 25mm celotex then rockwool and boarded with board of some sort, ply or moisture res mdf inside and OSB on top with roofing felt
~Then the Whole inside wrapped again and clad with board.
~Floating floor. high quality laminate or maybe even engineered wood floor on sound insulating mat.
~Maybe carpet the ceiling.
Already up to £2700 thats including 400quid for a skip. I still need to work out costings for windows and doors, and acoustic door seals etc. and LX etc. (its gonna be 3.5k isnt it... LOL)
Basically the theory is to pack the 140mm cavitiy walls, ceiling and floor with 2 types of insulation as thickly as possible, hence 140 battons. We should end up with a ~3x3.7m usable room space.
We are thinking UPCV (dark grey) exterior windows and doors with triple acoustic glass. There will be a double door system on the studio with a heavy fire rated door on the inside, with rubber seals. The window "void" will be then glazed from the inside too.
Basically get it as airtight as possible. Its never going to be 100% soundproof, but hopefully it will cut theracket music we make down to a minimum
Ill then make 2 baffled air vents boxes and add them on the rear of the construction. One with an inline fan inside to give some air flow.
And I am being to start to wonder if its gonna be worth it! lol
Any glaring issues? or advice? much welcomed.
Rich
Some of the spec is thus far. (not in order of construction)
~6x3.3m base out of 45x120mm treated timber with 25mm Celotex between the floor joists. and rockwool on top... then 18mm OSB to make floor. Divided into a 4x3.3m studio and 2x3.3mm shed
~Shell constructed from 38x140 CLS. 25mm Celotex in between batons the packed with rockwool.
~Breathable membrane wrap the entire structure.
~Shiplap exterior walls.
~Roof out of 38x140 CLS (maybe treated timber not sure). again 25mm celotex then rockwool and boarded with board of some sort, ply or moisture res mdf inside and OSB on top with roofing felt
~Then the Whole inside wrapped again and clad with board.
~Floating floor. high quality laminate or maybe even engineered wood floor on sound insulating mat.
~Maybe carpet the ceiling.
Already up to £2700 thats including 400quid for a skip. I still need to work out costings for windows and doors, and acoustic door seals etc. and LX etc. (its gonna be 3.5k isnt it... LOL)
Basically the theory is to pack the 140mm cavitiy walls, ceiling and floor with 2 types of insulation as thickly as possible, hence 140 battons. We should end up with a ~3x3.7m usable room space.
We are thinking UPCV (dark grey) exterior windows and doors with triple acoustic glass. There will be a double door system on the studio with a heavy fire rated door on the inside, with rubber seals. The window "void" will be then glazed from the inside too.
Basically get it as airtight as possible. Its never going to be 100% soundproof, but hopefully it will cut the
Ill then make 2 baffled air vents boxes and add them on the rear of the construction. One with an inline fan inside to give some air flow.
And I am being to start to wonder if its gonna be worth it! lol
Any glaring issues? or advice? much welcomed.
Rich
Edited by thebraketester on Wednesday 27th July 11:31
Edited by thebraketester on Wednesday 27th July 11:38
I think you're seriously underestimating the work involved and the cost of materials
Tiger sheds products are very good quality 44mm logs and come as a complete kit
they do a 20x8 studio for £4000 but also do bespoke to order
http://www.tigersheds.com/product/tiger-garden-stu...
Tiger sheds products are very good quality 44mm logs and come as a complete kit
they do a 20x8 studio for £4000 but also do bespoke to order
http://www.tigersheds.com/product/tiger-garden-stu...
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