www's new build thread
Discussion
worldwidewebs said:
Hmm.. thinking about the moling. Even if Openreach won't do it, I wonder if I can just get it done myself and then get OR to connect up
That's what I was thinking.........doubt they will give the cable but you could mole the ducting and they pull it through.....worth making a few inquiries for £7kWe're in the process of having our large extension and whilst the main house is 118 years old, the extension is going to be built from SIPS and also be quite passive (ruined by the main house of course).
Can I ask what your thought process was for using timber frame as I assume SIPS was also considered? I'm not, of course, suggesting you're wrong. I'm just interested to hear your views.
Project does look nice, if this extension goes well then I'd be very keen to build my next house rather than buy.
Can I ask what your thought process was for using timber frame as I assume SIPS was also considered? I'm not, of course, suggesting you're wrong. I'm just interested to hear your views.
Project does look nice, if this extension goes well then I'd be very keen to build my next house rather than buy.
worldwidewebs said:
alfie2244 said:
That's what I was thinking.........doubt they will give the cable but you could mole the ducting and they pull it through.....worth making a few inquiries for £7k
They're going to come back to me with a quote. Thanks for the suggestion 
MagicalTrevor said:
Can I ask what your thought process was for using timber frame as I assume SIPS was also considered? I'm not, of course, suggesting you're wrong. I'm just interested to hear your views.
A lot of it was down to reducing risk on site. The more wet trades you have, the more decisions you're going to be making at the last minute and the more you're affected by weather, resource etc. I'm managing the project and am a busy guy - the last thing I needed was more problems! So, going down the timber frame route meant that most of the big decisions could/would be made before we hit the site which meant I could do all my thinking up front and I knew exactly what I'd be getting. And it's way more accurate 
Choice of supplier largely came down to recommendation. The fact that they produced a very efficient structure was largely secondary tbh.
SIPS were a bit more expensive and not as flexible
Ok, groundworks finished for now! Yay!!!
I've updated the blog https://selfbuildnoviceblog.wordpress.com but here is a bit of an excerpt from the latest instalment
So after 4 days we’ve stripped the site where needed, prepared an area of hardstanding at the front, dug down for the slab and back-filled with MOT Type 1. Oh, and we’ve had a storage/office container and site toilet delivered. Nice.
The plot has a slope from front to back and we always knew that there would be a bit of ‘landscaping’ to get the levels right. The topological survey we had done is good but there’s no substitute for actually looking at what you have in front of you with your own eyes (now recently tested and aided by a lovely pair of Lindberg glasses from my local optician – too nice for the site methinks though). Yet again, I digress…
So why do I mention this? Well it’s obvious that the top of the slab, let’s call it the FFL (Finished Floor Level) even though technically it isn’t, will not be the required 150mm above the surrounding ground. Actually, I suppose if you consider that the house sits about 1m inside the dug slab area then it is, but we still need to Do Something. What that means is that we’re going to have to re-level part of the sides and the front of the plot. I’m not sure at the moment how I want it to look as it could be a fully graded slope but I want a flat driveway area so it could be that we build a small retaining wall about 400mm high. In some respects I wish we had done more levelling before the dig but in reality I think it’s really only obvious now what may be needed. I think no-matter what we’d done there would have been some re-jigging so I’m not too fussed really. I’ll have a word with the architect and see what he thinks.
Water
In addition to the heavy work, I’ve had a stand-pipe for a temporary water supply fitted by the plumber. This is all a real palaver and may mean that we don’t have site water initially, although I have a back-up plan.
Basically, I needed the trench dug but couldn’t get this done until the ground workers were on site. Then I needed the pipe fitting. Then it needs to be approved – in writing. Then I need to make an application for connection. Then it takes about 21 days to get connected.
The ground workers were waiting for the spec of the dig and in-fill from the structural engineer before they’d turn up (obviously) and this only came 3 and a half weeks before the timber frame guys are due to start. Not the fault of the timber frame guys but really piss-poor planning from the SE. So, timber frame guys, if you have no water on site you know who to ‘pay a visit’! At least the ground workers were brilliant at getting on site as quick as possible
Someone hasn't bothered to wait for completion before moving in
I've updated the blog https://selfbuildnoviceblog.wordpress.com but here is a bit of an excerpt from the latest instalment
So after 4 days we’ve stripped the site where needed, prepared an area of hardstanding at the front, dug down for the slab and back-filled with MOT Type 1. Oh, and we’ve had a storage/office container and site toilet delivered. Nice.
The plot has a slope from front to back and we always knew that there would be a bit of ‘landscaping’ to get the levels right. The topological survey we had done is good but there’s no substitute for actually looking at what you have in front of you with your own eyes (now recently tested and aided by a lovely pair of Lindberg glasses from my local optician – too nice for the site methinks though). Yet again, I digress…
So why do I mention this? Well it’s obvious that the top of the slab, let’s call it the FFL (Finished Floor Level) even though technically it isn’t, will not be the required 150mm above the surrounding ground. Actually, I suppose if you consider that the house sits about 1m inside the dug slab area then it is, but we still need to Do Something. What that means is that we’re going to have to re-level part of the sides and the front of the plot. I’m not sure at the moment how I want it to look as it could be a fully graded slope but I want a flat driveway area so it could be that we build a small retaining wall about 400mm high. In some respects I wish we had done more levelling before the dig but in reality I think it’s really only obvious now what may be needed. I think no-matter what we’d done there would have been some re-jigging so I’m not too fussed really. I’ll have a word with the architect and see what he thinks.
Water
In addition to the heavy work, I’ve had a stand-pipe for a temporary water supply fitted by the plumber. This is all a real palaver and may mean that we don’t have site water initially, although I have a back-up plan.
Basically, I needed the trench dug but couldn’t get this done until the ground workers were on site. Then I needed the pipe fitting. Then it needs to be approved – in writing. Then I need to make an application for connection. Then it takes about 21 days to get connected.
The ground workers were waiting for the spec of the dig and in-fill from the structural engineer before they’d turn up (obviously) and this only came 3 and a half weeks before the timber frame guys are due to start. Not the fault of the timber frame guys but really piss-poor planning from the SE. So, timber frame guys, if you have no water on site you know who to ‘pay a visit’! At least the ground workers were brilliant at getting on site as quick as possible
Someone hasn't bothered to wait for completion before moving in
alfie2244 said:
Not read the whole blog yet....just a quick one for you:
What are the falls like for the drive? I.e. always best to fall away from the house.
Yeah, no chance of that. The road is about 1m higher than the house. Wish it was the other way around, but it is what it is I suppose What are the falls like for the drive? I.e. always best to fall away from the house.
So with the sandwich of the insulation and concrete slab it will raise up by what? 40 or 50cms to ffl ?
Hopefully that will get you above the drive level,but still looks like you may need some surface drains around the house perimeter.
What would be the consequences of putting in more mot to get the house up out of any rainfall danger?
Hopefully that will get you above the drive level,but still looks like you may need some surface drains around the house perimeter.
What would be the consequences of putting in more mot to get the house up out of any rainfall danger?
magooagain said:
So with the sandwich of the insulation and concrete slab it will raise up by what? 40 or 50cms to ffl ?
Yes, 500mmmagooagain said:
So with the sandwich of the insulation and concrete slab it will raise up by what? 40 or 50cms to ffl ?
Hopefully that will get you above the drive level,but still looks like you may need some surface drains around the house perimeter.
Yes, drains are in the plansHopefully that will get you above the drive level,but still looks like you may need some surface drains around the house perimeter.
magooagain said:
So with the sandwich of the insulation and concrete slab it will raise up by what? 40 or 50cms to ffl ?
What would be the consequences of putting in more mot to get the house up out of any rainfall danger?
House too high for planningWhat would be the consequences of putting in more mot to get the house up out of any rainfall danger?
Regarding your internet issue at 7 grand.
Decent cell connection, mobile phone on an unlimited contract, set up as a wifi router? - Tech people will be able to come up with a far better solution, but I have seen results from 4G faster than from my normal internet.
Please disregard if this will not work for you!
And thread bookmarked!
Decent cell connection, mobile phone on an unlimited contract, set up as a wifi router? - Tech people will be able to come up with a far better solution, but I have seen results from 4G faster than from my normal internet.
Please disregard if this will not work for you!
And thread bookmarked!
Internet Issue...
Is the telegraph pole on the other side of a road way? If so don't read on.
Dig your own trench from the services point in your property (Gas/Elec point etc) to the boundary where services ideally come in. Put a large conduit in with several coloured or identifiable draw strings. Cover this back over and you have a permanent route for cables for the future. If you can make this duct run very close to the telegraph pole the actual install times are massively reduced. Hell the cable isn't expensive you could run it in and just leave for terminating!
BT Installed our line for 12 months contract at our house in a similar way. They absorb the cost over line rental for years to come.
Is the telegraph pole on the other side of a road way? If so don't read on.
Dig your own trench from the services point in your property (Gas/Elec point etc) to the boundary where services ideally come in. Put a large conduit in with several coloured or identifiable draw strings. Cover this back over and you have a permanent route for cables for the future. If you can make this duct run very close to the telegraph pole the actual install times are massively reduced. Hell the cable isn't expensive you could run it in and just leave for terminating!
BT Installed our line for 12 months contract at our house in a similar way. They absorb the cost over line rental for years to come.
Peanut Gallery said:
Regarding your internet issue at 7 grand.
Decent cell connection, mobile phone on an unlimited contract, set up as a wifi router? - Tech people will be able to come up with a far better solution, but I have seen results from 4G faster than from my normal internet.
Please disregard if this will not work for you!
And thread bookmarked!
There is 4G but it's not the best - inside the house i think it will be non-existent. Decent cell connection, mobile phone on an unlimited contract, set up as a wifi router? - Tech people will be able to come up with a far better solution, but I have seen results from 4G faster than from my normal internet.
Please disregard if this will not work for you!
And thread bookmarked!
Thanks for the suggestion though
So, a quick update. It looks like the slab may be being laid earlier than expected so suddenly I've got a bit of a panic on to decide what ducting I need to install in the slab for routing of the services. Aside from gas, nothing will go through the wall - it will all come up through the insulated slab.
So, here's my thinking so far. Ducting to/from the house is through the slab
electric (meter cabinet is by the plot boundary)
Anyone care to fill in the blanks and suggest areas I've overlooked?
So, here's my thinking so far. Ducting to/from the house is through the slab
electric (meter cabinet is by the plot boundary)
- 2 x 110mm duct from cabinet to plant room (feed and return)
- 63mm duct from cabinet to garage
- 63mm duct from cabinet (spare)
- ???mm from house to garden for lighting and power
- ???mm to the kitchen island (25mm rigid polyduct?)
- 63mm duct from main to house
- ???mm from ??? to garden - not sure where to route this from. Should it come from the house or can it be teed off before the feed enters the house?
- ???mm from ??? to garage - not sure where to route this from. Should it come from the house or can it be teed off before the feed enters the house?
- duct 54 to plant room
- want to also route ethernet from house to garage, but not sure how best to do this without another duct. Are there tee pieces for duct 54?
- duct ??? for coax cable from aerial at bottom of garden
Anyone care to fill in the blanks and suggest areas I've overlooked?
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