www's new build thread
Discussion
I can see why you are frustrated,the low sliding door is annoying to say the least.
I presume the locking part of the Velux handle locks when it's not in the shut position?
Have you put a straight edge across the frame each way to check it's not twisted ?
Check the catch part that is fixed to the frame if you have not done allready.
It could be in the wrong position,but that's a guess from me.
I presume the locking part of the Velux handle locks when it's not in the shut position?
Have you put a straight edge across the frame each way to check it's not twisted ?
Check the catch part that is fixed to the frame if you have not done allready.
It could be in the wrong position,but that's a guess from me.
magooagain said:
I can see why you are frustrated,the low sliding door is annoying to say the least.
I presume the locking part of the Velux handle locks when it's not in the shut position?
Have you put a straight edge across the frame each way to check it's not twisted ?
Check the catch part that is fixed to the frame if you have not done allready.
It could be in the wrong position,but that's a guess from me.
It all 'looks' fine. I spoke with Velux earlier and they've asked me to send over some photos of the various parts - hopefully, it'll be something obvious (to them!)I presume the locking part of the Velux handle locks when it's not in the shut position?
Have you put a straight edge across the frame each way to check it's not twisted ?
Check the catch part that is fixed to the frame if you have not done allready.
It could be in the wrong position,but that's a guess from me.
It's been a while and after 'not a lot' happening for a month or so we've had lots happen on site this week. The timberframe guys have been doing the air-tightness work and insulation, the windows have been finished off and the soffits, fascias etc have started to be fitted.
Two of the key features of the build are it’s high levels of insulation and its air-tightness. To put the level of air-tightness into perspective let’s compare it to standard UK Building Regulations.
Part L1A of the ‘regs’ state that any new dwellings are tested for air tightness by using a method known as a ‘blower door test’ in accordance with BS EN 13829. The measurement is taken by blowing air into the house via a particular door that is mounted in the main entrance. Part L1A requires an air tightness of maximum 10 m3/hr/m2 air loss at a pressure of 50 Pa. Standard good practice for air tightness testing in the UK is a maximum of 7 m3/hr/m2.
We are building to Passiv standards and the measure they use is in air changes per hour (ACH). A house built to Passiv standards requires no more than 0.65ACH and that’s what we are aiming for.
There isn’t really a direct way to convert from m3/hr/m2 to ACH as it depends on volume and floor area, but a reasonable finger-in-the-air would be to say that Part L1A is looking for around 7-10ACH.
The work itself involves the use of specialist tapes and membranes to create an air-tight barrier. Theoretically, it doesn't matter where this barrier is but usually this is on the inside face of the structure.
The internal face of the external walls is fabricated using an air-tight board (the green board in the photos). Any gaps between them and at all the interfaces with floor, windows etc. are sealed with various types of tape. At roof level, air-tight membrane was fitted to the underside of the joists and again all taped up to provide a robust seal.
The air-tight test is planned for 11am tomorrow morning. I'm quietly confident...
[pic https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l609/worldwid...
Two of the key features of the build are it’s high levels of insulation and its air-tightness. To put the level of air-tightness into perspective let’s compare it to standard UK Building Regulations.
Part L1A of the ‘regs’ state that any new dwellings are tested for air tightness by using a method known as a ‘blower door test’ in accordance with BS EN 13829. The measurement is taken by blowing air into the house via a particular door that is mounted in the main entrance. Part L1A requires an air tightness of maximum 10 m3/hr/m2 air loss at a pressure of 50 Pa. Standard good practice for air tightness testing in the UK is a maximum of 7 m3/hr/m2.
We are building to Passiv standards and the measure they use is in air changes per hour (ACH). A house built to Passiv standards requires no more than 0.65ACH and that’s what we are aiming for.
There isn’t really a direct way to convert from m3/hr/m2 to ACH as it depends on volume and floor area, but a reasonable finger-in-the-air would be to say that Part L1A is looking for around 7-10ACH.
The work itself involves the use of specialist tapes and membranes to create an air-tight barrier. Theoretically, it doesn't matter where this barrier is but usually this is on the inside face of the structure.
The internal face of the external walls is fabricated using an air-tight board (the green board in the photos). Any gaps between them and at all the interfaces with floor, windows etc. are sealed with various types of tape. At roof level, air-tight membrane was fitted to the underside of the joists and again all taped up to provide a robust seal.
The air-tight test is planned for 11am tomorrow morning. I'm quietly confident...
[pic https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l609/worldwid...
Vron said:
I had JUB Render on mine two years ago. Its a fantastic product with the nanotechnology. The house is next to a park so there are lots of ducks flying over and associated poo landing but it doesn't stick.
Interesting. We're going for Wetherby silicone render with their facade protector - I'm pretty sure it's much the same so good to know that it does work well 
By the way, we had the air test done this afternoon and obtained a stunning 0.27 air-changes per hour! This is less than half the permitted Passiv level
dsl2 said:
That's a super result on the airiest, lots of attention to detail gone into it looking at the pics.
Bet your well chuffed!
Yes, the guys doing the work have been doing it for years so know their way around. We'll get lower by the time we re-do the test in a few months but for now I'm more than happy! I'd like to get under 0.2 but that may be pushing it a littleBet your well chuffed!
That is a brilliant result, congratulations!
I note that you will be having another test done later and hope to improve. Is the test you have just had done valid from a building regs perspective, or do they need to do that at the end of the build?
Makes a lot more sense doing as you have done and testing whilst you still have the opportunity to address any issues.
I note that you will be having another test done later and hope to improve. Is the test you have just had done valid from a building regs perspective, or do they need to do that at the end of the build?
Makes a lot more sense doing as you have done and testing whilst you still have the opportunity to address any issues.
jimbouk said:
That is a brilliant result, congratulations!
I note that you will be having another test done later and hope to improve. Is the test you have just had done valid from a building regs perspective, or do they need to do that at the end of the build?
Makes a lot more sense doing as you have done and testing whilst you still have the opportunity to address any issues.
Thanks I note that you will be having another test done later and hope to improve. Is the test you have just had done valid from a building regs perspective, or do they need to do that at the end of the build?
Makes a lot more sense doing as you have done and testing whilst you still have the opportunity to address any issues.
Although I can take absolutely no credit for it whatsoever! Yes, the test is valid - the subsequent one is purely to verify that whatever we do between now and moving in hasn't caused any issues. In reality, fitting flooring and adjusting doors etc will only improve matters so it could be argued 'why bother' but there is a lot of what I do that could be badged in the same way!!!
Our house is of similar construction, and much better than building regs target, but not quite to the Passivhaus level. The test cert for ours says 2.1 m3/hr/m2 . I know the developer went to quite a lot of effort to get ours that low, so you must need a lot of attention to detail to get it as low as yours !
Well, a bit late but I've added a couple of updates to the blog tonight
https://selfbuildnoviceblog.wordpress.com
We now have the aluminium fascias, soffits, gutters etc installed...
First fix has now started too. Installing the MVHR ducting is a job I’ve been putting off for a few weeks as I had intended to fit the ducting over the Christmas holiday period but the reality was it was cold and I didn’t fancy it!
As the house is so air-tight we need to find another way of supplying fresh air. The solution is a Mechanical Ventilation and Heat Recovery (MVHR) system, which will be housed in the plant room. Fresh air from outside is drawn in and passed through a heat-exchanger before being ducted throughout the house. Stale air is extracted and again passed through the heat-exchanger before being ducted outside. This is normal practice for houses such as these
A long weekend resulted in the following...
Electrics and plumbing to go in over the next couple of weeks or so
https://selfbuildnoviceblog.wordpress.com
We now have the aluminium fascias, soffits, gutters etc installed...
First fix has now started too. Installing the MVHR ducting is a job I’ve been putting off for a few weeks as I had intended to fit the ducting over the Christmas holiday period but the reality was it was cold and I didn’t fancy it!
As the house is so air-tight we need to find another way of supplying fresh air. The solution is a Mechanical Ventilation and Heat Recovery (MVHR) system, which will be housed in the plant room. Fresh air from outside is drawn in and passed through a heat-exchanger before being ducted throughout the house. Stale air is extracted and again passed through the heat-exchanger before being ducted outside. This is normal practice for houses such as these
A long weekend resulted in the following...
Electrics and plumbing to go in over the next couple of weeks or so
roofer said:
The way they have cut that verge trim is making my teeth itch...
The saving grace is that you can't see it from the ground. But you're right, given the amount of time I spent arranging details, it does annoy me. If I didn't have more important things to worry about I'd probably do more about itIt's been a while but there has been a tonne of progress since my last update. For some reason I'm struggling to upload photos (of which there are a lot) - I'll keep persevering but in the meantime for those that are interested here is a link to the blog
https://selfbuildnoviceblog.wordpress.com
https://selfbuildnoviceblog.wordpress.com
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