Couple of questions on electric gates...

[Hard-Drive]

I'm looking to automate my front gate. It's a simple single wooden farm gate set between two substantial wooden posts. I already have ducting from an outbuilding (where power is) out the gatepost, however running any additional ducting between the posts will be a bit of a PITA. I have two options...a) get a sparky in to bring the power to the hinge post, and fit a kit myself, or b) Get a gate motor company in to do it.

I need a motor that will open to about 100 degrees, however I am getting conflicting info on some of the ancillaries from different suppliers...

1-Some say I need an electric lock between the end of the gate and the slam post. This seems like a good idea to me, as the leverage you can apply to the end of a 4m gate is obviously huge. Others say it's a waste of time.

2-Some say I need a safety edge, so if it hits something when closing it will stop. Others say I need a "beam" between the posts instead and no safety edge. Which is it?

3-If it does need a safety edge, would this be fitted to the front face of the gate, or on the edge? I would assume front face would make more sense...

4-If it is a "beam" jobbie, is is possible to get a beam where one end is "live" and the other just a simple reflector? This will be a lot easier than having to run a cable between the posts which as I mentioned before will be a right ballache?

Thanks in advance

[Willy Nilly]

We have electric gates at work and they are a massive pain in the arse. One thing you may need to consider is wind. If where they are situated where they need to close into the wind, they act like sails and cause the motor further problems.

[netherfield]

Can't say they all the same, but our beams are wired both ends.Using cat5 cable.

[VEX]

Willy Nilly said:

We have electric gates at work and they are a massive pain in the arse. One thing you may need to consider is wind. If where they are situated where they need to close into the wind, they act like sails and cause the motor further problems.

Haha, we solved a problem like this for a development of 6 houses last year with a wind speed sensor and some simple timers.

If the speed gets to 20mph the gates open and stay open until the wind speed has dropped to 15mph for at least 20mins or so.

V.

[All that jazz]

VEX said:

Willy Nilly said:

We have electric gates at work and they are a massive pain in the arse. One thing you may need to consider is wind. If where they are situated where they need to close into the wind, they act like sails and cause the motor further problems.

Haha, we solved a problem like this for a development of 6 houses last year with a wind speed sensor and some simple timers.

If the speed gets to 20mph the gates open and stay open until the wind speed has dropped to 15mph for at least 20mins or so.

V.

That kinda defeats the point of having electric gates if they're not going to work and let everyone wander in and out of your property whenever it's blowing more than a light breeze. Surely a meatier motor would be a more sensible solution.

[Ug_lee]

A simple farm style gate will not catch the wind as easy as a solid gate. Fit a simple electric lock on the end of the gate that holds 500Kg+ and you'll be sorted. If you want hydraulic actuators then its a whole different game with regards to safety blades etc.

Mine is a cheapo Mhouse double gate kit working on 2 solid 6ft square gates. Think the single leaf kit is around £250.

Has the sensors that detect if an obstacle is present when the gates close and go into reverse. The force they apply is so little, but if anyone was in the way when the motors detect an excessive amount of draw it stops and heads the other way, so no need for a safety blade. They also open 100deg+, but this is dependant on how you mount the motors (in the instructions). You can buy the battery kit and coupled to a small solar panel will work well for most domestic applications unless you are in and out 10 times+ a day. This may solve your power issue?

For people who have difficulty with solid gates and the wind I fitted one of these to the gates and coupled with a beefy lock, hinges and posts had no problem the last 2 years. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypgji0efjKY Was a pain to setup initially mind.

With regards to running wires and sensors across the road, this is just a thought but can the transmit and receive sensors be mounted on the same side? Then the opposite side some sort of mirror to reflect back? I imagine would be a pain to setup. Is it even possible?

Edited by Ug_lee on Sunday 18th September 07:55

[VEX]

All that jazz said:

VEX said:

Willy Nilly said:

We have electric gates at work and they are a massive pain in the arse. One thing you may need to consider is wind. If where they are situated where they need to close into the wind, they act like sails and cause the motor further problems.

Haha, we solved a problem like this for a development of 6 houses last year with a wind speed sensor and some simple timers.

If the speed gets to 20mph the gates open and stay open until the wind speed has dropped to 15mph for at least 20mins or so.

V.

That kinda defeats the point of having electric gates if they're not going to work and let everyone wander in and out of your property whenever it's blowing more than a light breeze. Surely a meatier motor would be a more sensible solution.

Agreed, but being the entrace to a development of 6 houses, which each have thier own gates, so it can be held open in winds. FYI It is not the opening that is a problem, it is the wind loading on the solid gates when they try to close in wind that strips the gears and kills the motors. At £500-£1000 a rebuild this can become expensive.

[Murph7355]

1) Depends how secure you want it. If you get decent gates it won't be straightforward to lever open even a large gate, and if the miscreant is determined the lock is unlikely to stop them. But it might add some peace of mind.

2) I think it really depends what sort of people are likely to interfere with it If kids, then a safety edge might help. If not, beams will be fine but can be a pain in the arse to keep clear.

I don't think you have to have any of these things. But some sort of protection from gates whacking cars/people would be wise.

3) I think you can put them on both faces which makes most sense. Same goes for beams - in front and behind the gates makes sense.

4) I've not seen reflector types, but you can get receivers that are battery operated.

[surveyor]

Willy Nilly said:

We have electric gates at work and they are a massive pain in the arse. One thing you may need to consider is wind. If where they are situated where they need to close into the wind, they act like sails and cause the motor further problems.

I'm with you. Nothing is as annoying as fking about on the floor, in the snow, in the dark, trying to get access to the motors, to get the fking gates to let you out.

[AndrewCrown]

HD,

We have a solid gate with a piston type drive on the gate... We also have a long iron gate on a rail with a rack and pinion...
Both are a complete and utter pain in the arse...as electrical problems just seem to happen ...and I've lost count of the number of times I've arrived home and it's locked itself shut...
All my diy efforts were rubbish, so I went to a professional and had them done properly...as we do need them...main advantage is they have a 24hr call out if things go wrong... Which they will...
If you do fit them... Order about 10 remote controls...as these also go missing or go wrong..

HD I feel much more comfortable replying to this thread than your slipper thread.

[AndrewCrown]

Agreed +10

surveyor said:

Willy Nilly said:

We have electric gates at work and they are a massive pain in the arse. One thing you may need to consider is wind. If where they are situated where they need to close into the wind, they act like sails and cause the motor further problems.

I'm with you. Nothing is as annoying as fking about on the floor, in the snow, in the dark, trying to get access to the motors, to get the fking gates to let you out.

[Uggers]

If you need to manually open the gates don't you just use the simple supplied key that disengages the motors from the drivescrew and you can open them just like conventional gates?

I'm not sure how everyone has problems, a lot sound like poor installation/inadequate hardware for the job you want them to do.

[AndrewCrown]

Uggers, you're absolutely right...
But when you re on the other side....and can't access the motors...
Agree on installation...

Uggers said:

If you need to manually open the gates don't you just use the simple supplied key that disengages the motors from the drivescrew and you can open them just like conventional gates?

I'm not sure how everyone has problems, a lot sound like poor installation/inadequate hardware for the job you want them to do.

[Uggers]

[quote=AndrewCrown]Uggers, you're absolutely right...
But when you re on the other side....and can't access the motors...
Agree on installation...

Ah gotcha, we have a few alternate means of getting to the back of the gates either through the house or a gate at the rear of the house. Probably worth putting in a pedestrian gate so the electric gates aren't the only means of getting in and out?

[Hard-Drive]

Guys thanks for your input here, much appreciated.

My electrician, somewhat doing himself out of work, has suggested looking at a low voltage gate motor. Does anyone have any experience of these? I guess in many ways it seems like a sub optimal solution...however still being OK in the event of a power cut seems good, and let's face it when was the last time you used a mains electric drill?

Any experiences?

[Busterbulldog]

I think all the good systems use 24vdc. My underground ones certainly do. The best advice I can offer is site the control box indoors if possible as condensation plays havoc over time and seemingly cannot be stopped.

[RichB]

On the subject of electrically operated gates, a few more (possibly daft) questions. What do you chaps who have them do about the postman, paper boy etc. Do they have to press the entry code system or do you have a post box on the outside of the gates for that stuff?

[surveyor]

We had a postbox on the outside of the gates... Couriers had to push the buzzer...

[Busterbulldog]

Manually operated side gate.

[Hard-Drive]

Finally ordered my gate motor. I'll probably just give our postie the code as I don't want the faff of walking down the driveway to even see if we have any post. Couriers will have to ring the bell.