Screed disaster

[Alucidnation]

Indeed!

[JungleJim]

rb5er said:

He's doing electric underfloor heating rather than wet.

yes, and he'll still need to put down insulation.

[rb5er]

JungleJim said:

rb5er said:

He's doing electric underfloor heating rather than wet.

yes, and he'll still need to put down insulation.

No he won't. The heat matt sits directly under the tile and on the ditri-matt. The insulation is under the screed.

[Alucidnation]

Regardless of what's under the screed, most electric ufh manufacturers recommend insulation is fitted directly under the heating mat.

What's the point in heating the sub floor.

[stanwan]

That is shockingly bad work. I've poured a flatter floor than that on my first attempt. A competent screener should achieve SR1 grade easily!

[craig1912]

Alucidnation said:

Regardless of what's under the screed, most electric ufh manufacturers recommend insulation is fitted directly under the heating mat.

What's the point in heating the sub floor.

Yep that's how ours was done

[rb5er]

craig1912 said:

Alucidnation said:

Regardless of what's under the screed, most electric ufh manufacturers recommend insulation is fitted directly under the heating mat.

What's the point in heating the sub floor.

Yep that's how ours was done

But not required. I have built 20houses with UFH in the last 3years for a major contractor and only the wet UFH is specified as needing insulation under it.

You can't just tile on top of insulation anyway so are you talking about screed over the heat mat?

The OPs installation is obviously not being laid as you suggest and there is no need to do so either.

[Alucidnation]

No it isn't 'required', however, I always fit insulation boards before the heat mat.

Once that is in, I then pour self levelling compound to cover the entire mat, which then gives the tiler a better surface to tile on, and completely covers the element to avoid damage plus, it is also recommended that this is done and avoids the chance of the tiler missing parts of it.

I understand most people will want to scrimp as they can be expensive, but its a more professional job and is more energy efficient.

http://www.heatmat.co.uk/assets/media/heatmat/file...

[sealtt]

Looks like the contractor has decided to do a runner with the £2k materials money and left the place as it is... BRILLIANT!!!

I'm really not into the idea of ripping up this floor and getting a pro to start from scratch on this garage conversion what is basically a glorified kids playhouse. It's primarily going to have a big table in the middle where the kids can do arts and crafts without messing up the house. I may use laptop there sometimes as a home office but not much.

SO any ideas on what can be done to sort this mess? Maybe some plywood sheets over the top?

I have currently got ceramic tiles but could easily take them back and get lino or something to make it easier. UFH has already been cancelled.

Thanks for any ideas or advice.

Edited by sealtt on Friday 7th October 11:38

[hedgefinder]

hard to say how bad it is from pictures...
get a decent tiler in to have a look and see if he can do anything with it as it stands.

[sealtt]

hedgefinder said:

hard to say how bad it is from pictures...
get a decent tiler in to have a look and see if he can do anything with it as it stands.

OK will try doing that.

[blade7]

T&G Chipboard,then laminate.

[dickymint]

Hire a push along concrete grinder for a week. Grind out the high spots then maybe polish the lot and leave it like that?

[dub16v]

sealtt said:

Looks like the contractor has decided to do a runner with the £2k materials money and left the place as it is... BRILLIANT!!!

Thanks for any ideas or advice.

Edited by sealtt on Friday 7th October 11:38

Does the contractor have a lawn...?

[blade runner]

Pour a self levelling compound to get the worst of the dips filled in. Then grind down the worst of any high-spots remaining and blend in. Finally put down Karndean tiles/planks or similar as these are very thin (so won't raise the floor level much more) but look nice and will be almost as hard-wearing as a tile. They are also flexible, so will still stick down ok over any undulations left in the floor.

[stanwan]

dickymint said:

Hire a push along concrete grinder for a week. Grind out the high spots then maybe polish the lot and leave it like that?

Exactly this.

I had to even off our floor levels prior to a self levelling pour as there were variations of around 15mm in floor level in adjacent rooms.

Hire a floor scabbler from speedy hire. It's bloody dusty so make sure you have extraction and masks ready. You need a reasonably flat floor to make self levelling easier

[Hoonigan]

dub16v said:

sealtt said:

Looks like the contractor has decided to do a runner with the £2k materials money and left the place as it is... BRILLIANT!!!

Thanks for any ideas or advice.

Edited by sealtt on Friday 7th October 11:38

Does the contractor have a lawn...?

[mikees]

Depends on your OCD.its much less mess and better to have it up. Plus 2k of materials, oh do fo. Chancer.

Unless your a bodger, have it up. Trust me it will make sense.

Mike

[S6PNJ]

sealtt said:

Looks like the contractor has decided to do a runner with the £2k materials money and left the place as it is... BRILLIANT!!!

Thanks for any ideas or advice.

Edited by sealtt on Friday 7th October 11:38

MCOL

[V8RX7]

Self levelling will sort that - if there are severe bumps a £10 grinding head from Toolstation and a grinder will take them off easily.

Whilst it makes skirting easier if it is - floors don't have to be perfectly flat and level.

Just make them gradual undulations.

I could sort that in a day for £200 (not an offer as I'm busy but it really isn't as bad as many make out)