small rip in lead porch roof
Discussion
Hi all,
I'm after some advice for my small porch at the front of my 1940's house, it has a lead finish too it which must be original, its all fine apart from a couple of small rips which have happened over time.
As the whole roof does not need to be replaced, what does anyone suggest would be the best fix for this ?
hopefully these links work
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vmhtlk00ui9sdqz/2016-09-...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vf9d55fvvgm619e/2016-09-...
TIA
Paul
I'm after some advice for my small porch at the front of my 1940's house, it has a lead finish too it which must be original, its all fine apart from a couple of small rips which have happened over time.
As the whole roof does not need to be replaced, what does anyone suggest would be the best fix for this ?
hopefully these links work
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vmhtlk00ui9sdqz/2016-09-...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vf9d55fvvgm619e/2016-09-...
TIA
Paul
Personally , I'd be replacing that , a good plumber or roofing firm would be able to lead weld the cracks , by which I mean an old school firm with specialist skill in lead work .
Or you could bodge it with any sort of paint on remedy , or get it ripped off and felted .
I'm guessing you know which method is the cheapest ?
Or you could bodge it with any sort of paint on remedy , or get it ripped off and felted .
I'm guessing you know which method is the cheapest ?
The second one has torn because of thermal expansion, you need to remedy that before going any further otherwise it will just do it again - eventually.
The first is where it's been stretched too thin whilst being dressed down and has eventually worn through, possibly helped by thermal expansion again. It needs replacing with the correct code.
The first is where it's been stretched too thin whilst being dressed down and has eventually worn through, possibly helped by thermal expansion again. It needs replacing with the correct code.
V6Pushfit said:
A bit of flashband would do it for the next 20 years
Errrrrm...Nah. 
Trying to burn a piece into that will introduce a weakness, as the weld will be stronger than the surround, which will tear after a few heat cycles.
Proper job would be to re lead it, Gippo job would be to coat it.
V8RX7 said:
My father flashbanded his chimneys after running out of cash when renovating his house - I told him it was a horrid bodge.
I was on the roof replacing the arial 25 years later and the bloody stuff is still ok !
I've hated it all my life as a cheap load of rubbish, but using a primer and in the right place if nothing else would work it does actually do the job. I last used it to rejoin a broken cast iron gutter on a shed where removing the gutter would have probably taken half the eaves away. When I say shed I mean 40m long barn. Job done.I was on the roof replacing the arial 25 years later and the bloody stuff is still ok !
Ps Glad roofer doesn't like it. Respect there chap.
Edited by V6Pushfit on Tuesday 27th September 22:12
V6Pushfit said:
I've hated it all my life as a cheap load of rubbish, but using a primer and in the right place if nothing else would work it does actually do the job. I last used it to rejoin a broken cast iron gutter on a shed where removing the gutter would have probably taken half the eaves away. When I say shed I mean 40m long barn. Job done.
Ps Glad roofer doesn't like it. Respect there chap.
It has its uses , I used to use 450mm rolls to line out finlock concrete sectional gutters after levelling out the settlement over the windows with hot bitumen torched smooth and priming the rest . It's a perfect fit and doesn't collect debris , you only get one chance sticking it down though ! Ps Glad roofer doesn't like it. Respect there chap.
Edited by V6Pushfit on Tuesday 27th September 22:12
thanks for all the replies and explanations.
If I were to go down the bodge it route, given these rips/holes have been there for 7yrs + and the porch below has no leaks or flaking paint, I'm thinking something like the following might be worth a shot.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-trade-mate-roofer...
I know its bodging but like I say they've been there years.
(ready to be flamed.....)
If I were to go down the bodge it route, given these rips/holes have been there for 7yrs + and the porch below has no leaks or flaking paint, I'm thinking something like the following might be worth a shot.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-trade-mate-roofer...
I know its bodging but like I say they've been there years.
(ready to be flamed.....)
paulwirral said:
It has its uses , I used to use 450mm rolls to line out finlock concrete sectional gutters after levelling out the settlement over the windows with hot bitumen torched smooth and priming the rest . It's a perfect fit and doesn't collect debris , you only get one chance sticking it down though !
I've also used it for going over cracks in thick corrugated perspex rooflights. Doesn't look great but its the only thing to do it. Back to the lead - if the roof isn't particularly visible I would be tempted to use it.... but the decking may be rotted by now...
4Q said:
I really detest bodgers and bodgers, there's no excuse unless you're in a fix, poor or a scumbag. Do it properly.
Err thanks for sharing your opinion, like you I'm not keen on bodging, but given alot of different factors (cash flow, work circumstances, family etc) the screwfix sealant might be a "solution".Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff